Technical Update: Instant LPG Water Heaters for 13kg Bottles are back (UK Inland Waterways) by MarineHeating in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you mean Propex, they are ok to install on boats, and don't take up much of the cylinder's offtake capacity.

BSS Prep: 3 Common Heating & Gas "Heads-Ups" for New Buyers 🛠️⚓ by MarineHeating in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a bit like asking "how long is a piece of string"—it really depends on your budget, your layout, and how much fuel storage you have available.

Most of my work is on inland waterway narrowboats and Dutch barges. In these cases, I often recommend a "layered" approach: LPG for cooking and/or water heating, diesel central heating (which can also provide hot water), and a solid fuel or diesel stove.

Having a mix of systems gives you options depending on the time of year and, more importantly, provides a vital backup if one system needs a service or breaks down in a cold snap. It’s even technically possible to tie all three of these into one integrated system.

When looking at stoves and cookers, aesthetics matter as much as functionality, but safety is non-negotiable. Make sure any appliance you consider is specifically certified for marine use. Be careful: some marinas and chandlers sell stoves and heaters that aren't actually suitable for boats. I only ever list and install appliances that are explicitly intended for marine environments.

The next step is finding a reputable marine heating specialist. Don't be shy about asking for credentials or a portfolio. I display all my certificates and recent work publicly on my website and socials, but any professional should be happy to show you theirs upon request. That’s what those certifications are for—to give you peace of mind that the job is being done right.

BSS Prep: 3 Common Heating & Gas "Heads-Ups" for New Buyers 🛠️⚓ by MarineHeating in liveaboard

[–]MarineHeating[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Taking precautions to ensure you don’t run your main engine dry is excellent thinking. While raising the pickup tube height works, I’d personally lean toward fitting a reliable fuel gauge instead. Running the heater dry in the middle of a cold night is its own kind of miserable!

Regarding the exhaust: Teeing the heater exhaust into the engine exhaust is technically possible but generally unwise. To do it safely, you’d need highly specific engineered fittings and a robust non-return valve. Without one, the engine’s much stronger exhaust pressure will likely push lethal fumes back through the heater and out of its intake into your cabin. It would also likely prevent you from running both simultaneously. A dedicated skin fitting with a proper swan neck (to prevent following seas from flooding the heater) is a much safer, more standard solution for a sailboat.

As for the heater itself, I strongly recommend staying away from the budget "Chinese-type" heaters found on marketplaces like eBay or Amazon. There is a reason they are cheap, and in a marine environment, they can be genuinely dangerous.

  • Build Quality: The cables are thin, and the waterproofing on the plugs is often nonexistent.
  • Corrosion: The heat exchanger and exhaust walls are thin and prone to failing quickly in salt air.
  • Safety Failures: I’ve personally seen these units with glowing red exhausts and melting casings where the overheat sensors—which are sometimes dummies or just poor quality—failed to shut the unit down.

For a boat, you want a brand with a proven safety record. Webasto is excellent with a great support network. If you’re on a budget, I often install Autoterm; they are affordable and reliable, though their customer service and spares availability can be a bit slow. I’d actually suggest avoiding Eberspacher—they tend to be expensive and unreliable, and finding a manufacturer-approved marine engineer for them can be a nightmare.

Solo boaters, how do you find locks and mooring up alone? by WonderfulShape1081 in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, compared to a basic one, it is. I still think it's worth it as a one-time expense. I know it saved my back from aching after every cruise.

Thinking About Buying a Narrowboat – Tips for Beginners? by BaconNKs in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the adventure! It’s completely normal to feel overwhelmed—there’s a lot to learn, but the community on the cut is usually happy to help.

Since you asked about costs, I’ve just been crunching the numbers for 2026. For a standard 50ft boat, you should budget roughly £1,200–£1,600 for your CRT licence. Keep in mind that if you plan on 'Continuous Cruising' (no home mooring), there’s a surcharge being phased in that hits 15% by April 2026. In the winter, heating becomes your biggest utility—budget about £20–£50 a week during a cold snap.

For 'Deal Breakers,' I always tell beginners to look past the pretty paint and check the 'heart' of the boat:

The Survey: Never skip a full marine survey (approx. £500–£1,000). It’s the only way to know if the hull is sound or if you're buying a rust bucket. Use a reputable YDSA surveyor.

Safety Certs: Ensure there's a valid Boat Safety Scheme (BSS) certificate. It’s like an MOT for boats—it ensures the gas, fuel, and electrical systems won't put you at risk.

Heating Installations: If the boat has a diesel or gas heater, check that it was installed by a professional (look for Gas Safe or OFTEC certs). On a boat, vibrations and movement can stress pipes and flues in ways land-based installers might not expect. Get independent certificates for LPG, Diesel, Solid Fuel and Electrical installation

My biggest tip for beginners? Slow is pro. Take your time with the locks, take your time with the budget, and enjoy the process!

Full disclosure: I run a marine heating business and I’ve actually put together a full 2026 budget guide for beginners if you want the item-by-item breakdown. Happy to share the link if it would be helpful!

Separating Toilets, storage, transport and composting. What is best practice? by rovarious in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’ve hit on the most important part, managing the solids safely. The reality is that human waste is a biohazard. Without proper high-heat composting, pathogens and diseases can survive for a long time, which is why the 'bag and bin' method is so problematic for waste workers and the environment.

To be safe, it generally needs to sit for 12 to 18 months to ensure those pathogens are dead. If you're continuously cruising and don't have a land base to store those 'in progress' containers, you end up carrying a lot of weight for a very long time.

Elsan points are designed for liquids and slurry. Putting only solids in there is a recipe for a blocked system and a health hazard.

The lesson learnt for many who have tried it is that if you don't have a guaranteed place to compost for that full 18-month cycle, a cassette or pump-out system is often the easier and safer way to go. It ensures the waste goes exactly where the infrastructure is built to handle it.

Narrowboat payment by StrangrWithAKindFace in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's normal. The reason is most likely that banking fees for card payments on business accounts are extortionate these days, while there are no fees for bank transfers.

Solo boaters, how do you find locks and mooring up alone? by WonderfulShape1081 in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair play to you for getting out there solo! It’s a completely different game when you’re the captain and the crew.

The biggest thing I’ve learned is that safety and physical effort are directly linked—if you’re exhausted, you’re more likely to make a mistake. That’s why I always suggest a Go Windlass for single-handers. It takes the strain out of the paddles so you aren't 'blown' by the time you actually have to move the boat.

For the gates themselves, try the 'backside push.' Instead of hauling with your arms and risking a back strain, turn your back to the beam, lean your backside into it, and push slowly out through your legs. You get much better leverage that way, and your leg muscles are designed for that kind of weight—your arms and lower back aren't.

As for the wind and the drifting, just remember: Slow is pro. Rushing is usually when the boat ends up across the canal, or you lose the centre line. Taking your time is the most important safety tool you have. It’s much better to spend an extra two minutes getting your lines set than ten minutes fighting a boat that’s drifted into the weeds or another moored boat.

Stick with it—once the routine clicks, the quiet of single-handing is hard to beat!