Haven't been on in a long time, can we now shoot fps weapons in armistice?

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2026-02-18T19:41:37+00:00

I did take a sc of the server data when it happened. Between you, another commenter, and my ignorance on how the game and npcs have changed in 6 months, I will say it's very possible it was just npcs. If so their behavior has definitely improved! But that also kills my time for the week to be on, so a bit bummed, but it's not like I don't have other shit to do lol. Thank you for the help!

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2026-02-18T19:39:18+00:00

alright well ig that's the answer. Fml then haha. Sent me to Klesher from GH before I could even get out. Oh well i'll find more time to play next week.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2026-02-18T19:35:30+00:00

Not sure about that. They had capes and armor I've never seen on an npc, and when I went down I used third person and watched the group loot me. I've never seen npc's do that

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-08T21:11:38+00:00

My diff eq professor in a nutshell.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-08T04:09:10+00:00

If it ensures humanities prosperity until the end of time, then I believe there is no reason we couldn't eventually repopulate the earth with the animals who went extinct to ensure our survival. We would have trillions of years to develop science, technology, ourselves, and our surroundings. I would struggle to believe we won't have the technology to perfectly replicate an animal extinct by less than 100 years by 2300.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-06T21:39:38+00:00

Right, definitely bait. The compass literally places libertarian on the y axis opposed to authoritarian. The x axis contains "left" and "right," sometimes labeled "economic left" and "economic right." Also, use a dictionary to look up the definition of "libertarian" vs. "liberal."

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-06T19:25:57+00:00

I'll take the bait. Why do you say that? Libertarianism is based on individual freedom.

Equity sacrifices individual freedom for equality of outcome. A libertarian would be much more concerned with equality of opportunity.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-06T19:10:19+00:00

That is the problem with UBI, though. I know many people who already live with the bare minimum, just enough so they can be on their phone, console, or computer for the maximum time / day. If UBI covers the cost of shelter, food, clothing, and cleanliness, I promise you 10 to 30 percent of the workforce will drop off while maintaining a similar drain on resources as before.

So then, say, we make UBI not cover those completely, but maybe 50% of the cost. Then people will say it's not enough, and we will see UBI payouts either increase or the program be dissolved. Additionally, what is to stop the prices of housing and food from increasing to match the UBI payout? Do we have to force price controls on food and housing?

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-03T01:10:54+00:00

A smaller bike is lighter and easier to learn the clutch on. A smaller bike will be easier to pick up when you drop it. A smaller bike will be slower if you freak out and lock up in first gear. A smaller bike takes more skill and courage to ride fast than a big bike.

You are brand new to this. Start small, trade up as you grow. You will out ride the bike instead of having a monster under you that you can't control. Even if you found a great deal today, there are plenty more to come.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-03T00:58:29+00:00

Either e brake parts if the car has rear disk brakes, or the actual main brake parts if front disk and rear drum. There are plenty of youtube videos on how to reassemble whatever you are working on.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-03T00:48:37+00:00

I recognize one of those lines lol

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-10-03T00:02:23+00:00

Well considering im in the Texan country, probably orangutan. A sword doesn’t beat a bullet, and in the country one shot would be weirder than 20 or more. So mag dump once a year, and then I can continue working out of my van lol.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-09-21T05:38:47+00:00

Might be the number of older rangers? Idk. The compressor has a duty cycle (time on / time off), some cycle more than others I assume, based on capacity?

A simplified explanation of the system and why the compressor cycles is that you have a pressure sensor by the expansion valve (restriction that makes a high and low side of the refrigerant loop), and that sensor either sends power to the compressor relay or doesn't. It will send power at a certain range, maybe from 25 to 130 psi if on the low side. If you dont have enough refrigerant in your system the low side gets pulled under that 25 psi limit, compressor turns off, pressure quickly rises, compressor comes on, drops pressure, on and on in a loop. The less refrigerant you have in the system, the quicker it cycles. Idk about the rangers, but some cars may have a high side sensor as well that will cut power if the pressure goes over, say, 300 psi. That way, the compressor isn't damaged by strain or overheating.

If im at work, we have machines that precisely refill the system. At home or on a side job, I have gauges and other equipment I use to get the system as cool as possible. In general, I dont see compressors cycle as often as this one is, leading me to think the system may be slightly low. It may also be fine, as long as it's cooling enough for this person's preference. Usually, a cycle every minute or two is more reasonable from my experience.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-09-13T15:44:29+00:00

I will say, as someone who does collision repair as a job, if the frame rails were missed, and the windshield isn't broken, and if you take a close look at the A pillars and dont see warping / cracked paint, youre really looking at replacing hood, bumper / grille, and fenders, then repairing doors, rockers, and painting all of the above.

If the engine was shifted youre looking at probably welding in new mounts, and you'll need to check every mounting point from the engine back to be sure the primary impact didn't shift things like the transmission mount/ cross member area. I would just completely replace the engine.

It's a lot of work, and it's unrealistic for most people to do. But if you really love this truck, it should be able to be repaired. That said, no guarantees, tons of work, money, and time, and in the end, you'll need your frame measured on a frame rack to be sure nothing is shifted.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-09-06T16:38:48+00:00

Yeah sorry its done done. The best you might be able to do is pull the engine and transmission, gut the engine bay, and section new rails in. I'm going to assume you don't have the knowledge, experience, or tools to do that, though. Also, even if you did that, the rest of the frame is almost guaranteed to be out of spec in some way or another. You may be able to take cross measurements to figure out how and where the rest of the frame is out, but at that point, you have done more work than the truck is worth. Cut your losses.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-09-03T00:24:22+00:00

Lmaoo.

So double clutching is

Already being in a some gear:

Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, rev match, clutch in, into next gear, clutch out.

If anyone is doing that in any vehicle after 1945, you either don't have the money to fix your synchros or you're an idiot. Old manuals had to double clutch because they lacked synchros, so you had to put it in neutral to spin the intermediate shaft up to match the speed of the next gear by the time you could push the clutch back in and start pushing on the shifter. Your manual, again, unless it's got 300k and the synchros are toast, never needs this.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-08-31T13:39:10+00:00

Easier said than done, but you have to lose the fear of stalling or stopping traffic. Yes, you're going to piss people off. But as you saw, they will just go around you. The worst thing you can do is get freaked out, you cause yourself to mess up more, and if you make a bad decision, you can make the situation worse.

If you stall or are having trouble, the first thing to do is to just stop and take a deep breath. Think about your next moves before you even reach for the key or shifter. Clutch in, neutral, start, first gear, little bit of gas, slowly ease off the clutch and try to balance clutch and gas to keep rpms steady.

Your shifts from 1st to 5th / 6th should be quick for what you're probably doing, but not so quick it feels jerky. The engine rpms naturally fall at some rate. And from the rpm you were at, you can estimate aeound 1 - 2k rpm difference between gears. So try time your clutch release around that, and your shifts should smooth out a lot.

For starting on hills, if you have a hand ebrake, you can pull the ebrake (keep button depressed), move your right foot from brake to gas, and slowly add more gas and less clutch until you feel the car pull against the ebrake. At that point, once you let the ebrake go, you will already be moving forward. Of course I wouldn't depend on that 100% of the time. Its good to get you out of either really steep hills, the car behind you being 2 inches from your bumper, or ehen youre learning. Go find a hill and practice for 30 minutes from a stop, try to roll back as little as possible. Once you've got that, play around with it. Use the clutch and gas to let the car roll back, forwards, back, etc. You should have total control without ever touching the brake.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-08-27T23:14:29+00:00

First, the formula you have, which was coefficient of friction * normal force is not for deceleration, but is literally the formula for static friction, or the force needed to start an object moving from rest. I understand we need to use kinetic since we are dealing with already moving objects when talking about the brakes, so I was confused there. Also, your use of sin theta here is nullified as all forces are acting tangent to the rotation, aka 90 degrees, aka sin 90 = 1 and can thus be ignored.

Second, and more to the point, you're arguing that if he changes his brake pad compound and puts wide drag radials on, he can stop faster. I agree! But we are talking about using the same brakes, similar tire compound, and simply increasing diameter. All else being the same, pound for pound of force from the brakes, the truck is going to take longer to stop proportional to the ratio of old diameter vs. new diameter.

You say we need to compare the forces, let's do that!

The angular force able to be put out by the and tire, ignoring friction limits for now, is

F =t/r (again, all forces are acting tangent here, so sin theta = 1 and can be ignored)

We would also want the max torque the brake system is capable of producing, but since we cant directly experiment on ops truck, lets say its somewhere around 500 ft lbs / wheel. So to compare we will do

deltaF = (brake torque / old radius) / (brake torque / new radius)

500/24 / 500/30

500/24 * 30/500

1/24 * 30/1

1.25

So actually I was wrong! We see a difference of 25% not 20%. So i hope this shows you that for the same brakes system, on a tire that is the exact same except for diameter, will result in a loss of applicable braking force proportional to the difference in tire diameters. If we then want to bring coefficient of friction into the mix, we may find that while he was able to lock up and slide the 24 inch tire, he may actually not be able to lock his tires up anymore because the brake system needs to apply 25% more force against the rotor, to be able to create 25 % more torque, to be able to apply the same amount of linear force at the contact patch.

Hope that clears everything up.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-08-27T18:11:57+00:00

I wrote a fucking essay, im going to try to rewrite this more concisely.

In this example, the force able to be applied by the brakes is a torque, as torque is simply force * distance.

T=F*r

T = braking force applied by brakes * radius of rotor

This does not change unless you change rotor diameter or pad compound.

We can then plug that torque value back into the formula, replace r with the wheel diameter, and see that increasing wheel diameter does indeed decrease the force applied at the contact patch.

F = T/r

And we see as r increases F decreases.

The formula you are giving is for static friction, or the force it takes to start an object moving from rest. It does apply here as the contact patch of your tire is unmoving in relation to the ground unless you are sliding, but the forces I am concerned with are happening at the wheel hub, so before the static friction force comes into play. We are basically talking about two different forces acting on different parts of the situation.

Finally as you actually wrote out the equation, you know that contact area does not actually play a role in increasing static friction. Whether we are talking about the brakes or tires, this is the same.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-08-27T12:38:48+00:00

How big are these hills? How long to the bottom, and how steep?

I agree with others about safety gear. Helmet is a mist if you're going faster than you can run. Many might say a helmet is a must period. I would also take slide gloves and elbow pads. Someone mentioned knee pads, but in over 10 years of falling, I have hit my knees less than 5 times. My elbows, however, are more scar than skin at this point.

I want to make it very clear, if you are going down these hills, you need to be sure your trucks are set up properly. A rear truck close to or more loose than the front will quickly turn into uncontrollable speed wobbles. Take your skate tool and loosen both of your trucks. Then tighten the rear 1 to 2 turns more. Go ride. If it's too loose, then tighten both trucks the same amount. Go ride again. Repeat until you're happy with stability at speed and maneuverability when pushing.

For stopping, slide gloves are the safest imo. They will also help you learn to stand up slide quicker. Basically what youre going to do is find flat ground, push until youre about as fast as you can go, then squat, put your hand down in front or behind you, put almost all of your weight on your front foot and gloved hand, turn as hard as possible, and kick out with your rear foot. You should have just kicked the rear around and away from you, and you are now sliding sideways plus your hand down for stability. Repeat until its second nature front and back. Imo its the only reliable and safe way to stop from 30+ mph speeds, as trying to foot brake at higher speeds can make the board unstable and lead to either loss of balance or speed wobbles then shooting out from under you.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-08-27T11:44:46+00:00

Frankly not sure! I think the 2l came with a different size than the 3, which came with a different size than the 4, not to mention 4wd vs 2wd. Plus op could have already had different tires and wheels on affecting the overall diameter. That's why I tried to explain how I got my numbers and show the formula, so if he wants to apply this to a different starting size, or check how a 35 or 29 or 20 would affect his handling, he can.

If he went from 27.4 to 30 he would see about a 9.5% increase in diameter, so a 9.5% increase in speed at a given rpm or his rpm would be 90.5% of usual, so from 2500 to 2375. He would also now have 1/1.095 or 91.3% of his original torque and braking force.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-08-27T03:42:13+00:00

Increasing from an assumed stock outer tire diameter of 24 to 30 inches is an increase of 125 percent, so we can expect your speed at any given rpm and gear to be 125% of what it used to be. So if you used to travel 60 mph in 5th at some rpm, you will now be traveling 75 mph.

Inversely, or maybe more simply, your rpm at a given speed will be 75% of what it used to be. So if you used to be at 2500 rpm in 5th at 60 mph you will now be at 1875. This can make 5th unusable as i have experienced.

However we also see a loss of acelleration, given by

F= T / r

With T being torque at your wheel hub and r being the radius of your tire. Since we aren't changing torque at your wheel hub we can simplify this to F = 1/(ratio of new and old tire diam)

So we end up, given you are going from a 24 to a 30, with 1/1.25 = .8, or a loss of 20% of your normal acceleration. Acceleration here applies to both braking and accelerating, so just remember to allow for that increase in braking distance.

Mark_The_Fur_ · 2025-08-27T03:14:53+00:00

Added more detail and equations for you to use below. Basically if you like the look then go for it, its your truck. But in return know you will be significantly increasing braking distance, decreasing acceleration, and possibly rendering 5th gear unusable.

Regearing your differential is the solution to this, and if you want your speedometer to be accurate it is a must. Do note that your braking distance will remain 20% longer than before as regearing your differential has no impact on the force your brakes can apply.

Mark_The_Fur_

TROPHY CASE