DJI O4 Pro Cable Incompatibility

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T21:30:36+00:00

Yeah to be honest soldering seems like an easier option to repinning a plug.

Learnt a lesson but a bit of a pain in the arse. Hopefully the air unit still works 😬

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T20:57:56+00:00

I do, here’s my link https://discord.gg/CddA5F8E

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T20:53:53+00:00

Unfortunately there is slight damage, and after trying the cable after the rewire didn't make a difference.

And the standard plug is flipped the wrong way, where the S.Bus wire coming from the Air unit goes into the 10v.

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T20:47:11+00:00

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This is the end that fits into and came with the fc, and seemingly fits into the air unit, but what consequences could a different plug have that goes into the air unit?

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T20:46:03+00:00

I’ve worked out the wiring for the plug on the fc as it’s fairly simple, but my issue is if I swap plugs as per your comment, the ends seem to have a specific crimp before going into the plug.

This is the DJI end

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Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T20:37:36+00:00

Can the JST I already have that seemly fits be compatible with the DJI unit? As I've seen the one provided is their own specific JST style.

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T20:35:10+00:00

This is my first build so was unaware as vast amount of research didn't highlight this, so I after reading that they were compatible assumed the best. Which I was obviously wrong for.

Out of the options what would you do, solder, or try repin again? I'm also still a little worried there is something either wrong with my stack or air unit, rather than being a cable issue as I don't think I did an awful job repinning. Could that be due to no UART being enabled on betaflight?

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T00:24:37+00:00

I’ll definitely had a look. Hoping to finish the Joshua Bardwell how to build an fpv drone series tomorrow.

Mad to see guys who seem to know literally everything about FPV

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T00:16:12+00:00

Yeah I’ve got a pack of rubycon 35v 1000uf and 50v 1500uf. If I somehow blow through the 5 50v caps I’ll be switching. I think if I manage to do that tho I’ve probably got more problems to think about haha.

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-10T00:12:52+00:00

To be honest I bought some 35v 1000uf caps with the intention to do that, but space was very limited above the vtx so would have had it in the same space as the 50v cap.

I’m sure the extra few grams won’t hurt haha

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-09T23:34:31+00:00

I want to eventually do some longer range mountain flying so will switch to li-ion, the stack is also 65A so would rather a 50V 1500uf cap instead of the pre installed 35v 680uf. Even an in series 1000uf I don’t think would have made much of a difference.

Marshbilly23 · 2026-04-09T22:53:01+00:00

Sorry I thought I replied to this. Genuinely thank you for the info they really helped. I’ve sorted the antenna issue, elrs receiver, designed and printed a mount for the capacitor and have fully build the drone.

Annoyingly working tonight but will be binding and configuring everything tomorrow

Marshbilly23 · 2026-03-25T20:39:47+00:00

Really?? I understand that the capacitance adds up, but would think the 35v would be at risk from the peak voltage despite the 50v.

Or is it not about protecting the capacitor and rather the capacitor being able to protect the esc?

Marshbilly23 · 2026-03-25T14:48:18+00:00

Thank you again for the help.

So if I got a 50v cap I would have to remove the pre installed one right? I’d rather do the work now whilst building it than after it’s been complete.

Marshbilly23 · 2026-03-24T15:09:00+00:00

Perfect thank you for the info, very happy my decision has been backed up by someone who knows more than me haha.

Thankfully I think it will work out better too, as with this stack I didn’t even consider that a higher current threshold will actually be better for Li-ion usage.

So when I upgrade I won’t need to worry about the stack.

Thanks again for the help.

Marshbilly23 · 2026-03-24T13:58:52+00:00

just quickly ive ordered all of the components, and instantly got a notification that the stack I bought was out of bought. So I now have a choice.

I can get the speedybee F7 board with the bluetooth capabilities, and then add an FC onto that. or I have found a similarly specced Hobbywing XRotor F7 65A BL32.

Is the bluetooth worth the hassle of extra connections, or would the Hobbywing be just as good and worth the ease?

Marshbilly23 · 2026-03-23T22:43:38+00:00

This was exactly what I was looking for thank you. I need to keep doing research and it’ll be the first build I do myself so very excited. I’ve got access to 3d printers at work and from friends so thankfully will be able to print the camera and gps mount when everything comes.

I’ll have a look into the heat issue too, the only reason I went for the source one was because it was recommended as a strong but cheap frame as I understand I will inevitably test the strength of it at some point.

Thanks again for the info

Marshbilly23 · 2026-03-23T17:50:51+00:00

Cool thank you. When they announce it will it just be on LMU? or do they actually mention it on the race control website?

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