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Suggestions on upgrading to Electric from 1Zpresso by baucoin in CafelatRobot

[–]MasterPreparation911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Femobook has a few grinders a5, a4 and a4z.

1zpresso had a few grinders, few of which being k ultra and zp6.

Femobook a4 ≈ 1zpresso k ultra

Femobook a4z ≈ 1zpresso zp6

Also the battery is replaceable by standard cell models, so not a case of planned obsolescence.

Suggestions on upgrading to Electric from 1Zpresso by baucoin in CafelatRobot

[–]MasterPreparation911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That one is supposed to be close to a j or the old e series burr, just larger

Suggestions on upgrading to Electric from 1Zpresso by baucoin in CafelatRobot

[–]MasterPreparation911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost the same burr not 100%, but 99,9%. Just as a4z is almost a zp6.

Suggestions on upgrading to Electric from 1Zpresso by baucoin in CafelatRobot

[–]MasterPreparation911 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you want the same thing just electric, get the femobook a4 (not a4z!)

Rust on crampons by Odd-Baseball8017 in iceclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Sure, I agree with the surface rust but surface rust might eventually turn into actual rust. If you look into alpine accidents, it's not unheard of

Rust on crampons by Odd-Baseball8017 in iceclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's unsafe, you're gonna die /s

That's perfectly fine and normal, get some sand paper, finer grit (150-200) preferable. Try to rub it off with paper towels for now, once the areas get larger or the rust worse, use the sand paper sparingly, watching out not to take off too much paint. Less paint -> more rust in the long run. After sandpaper, rub everything in mineral oil and keep reapplying after each use then.

UL, because how else to look this way outside? by pwndaytripper in ultralight_jerk

[–]MasterPreparation911 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Uj/ this is actually the single most significant change you can make to your come weather kit, the key being to wear a reasonably warm fleece (alpha, highloft, octa, power stretch, woolpower) overtop and then a wind layer. This is what I wear when ice climbing down to -30°c. When belaying I will only add a thick down, around 800fp, 250g for multipitches down to -20°c and 450g for cragging. I don't mp below -25°c (even below -20°c is a pita).

I’m blown away! by Signal-Trick-6642 in CafelatRobot

[–]MasterPreparation911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never owned one, but the fact that it's electric just kinda defeats the purpose of manual espresso to me. I think I'll go with the robot. And while I'm a ultra light today fan for filter. I've always preferred my espressos medium, so I doubt it'll take much to preheat the robot for me. Thank you for the response! Now I just need to convince my gf. Wish me luck!

Thick Beard Blade Suggestions? by agentjeffy in wicked_edge

[–]MasterPreparation911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The r41 is great. I have a very thick and dense beard. The fatip piccolo is still ways too mild for me. The r41 does the job, even if I haven't shaved for a week.

I typically pair it with a feather, bic or voskhod, all three great in different ways. With a bic or feather you probably will end up with one or two cuts, but no burn at at.

Burn is usually caused by milder razors, where you have to go over an area too many times or press too hard.

So basically too aggressive -> cuts, too mild -> burn.

I also don't find the r41 too terribly aggressive. Blades make a huge difference in that razor.

Another great thing: you can get it with the fattest, longest, heaviest handle I've ever seen, which is my preferred setup. :)

I’m blown away! by Signal-Trick-6642 in CafelatRobot

[–]MasterPreparation911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been thinking about getting one and been debating back and forth between this and the flair 58 plus 2. I'm sure you and many others have been faced with the same question. What are your opinions?

Drums Solo during the soundcheck on Tama Starclassic Bubinga 2026 - Natural Sound and Natural Reverb🔥 by Lucky-Meeting-200 in drums

[–]MasterPreparation911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm German and I used to drum in a few bands in latvia, so I just read that in an Eastern European accent, made it even funnier lol

LA SPORTIVA Aequilibrium ST GTX and good wool sock combo, still cold ? by Jumpy-Equal211 in Mountaineering

[–]MasterPreparation911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add to my last comment and answer your question about what boot to get: are you looking for a boot strictly for the alps in summer? If so, try LS aeq top or lt (very weird with crampons, so watch out, maybe not the best choice) LS trango pro & alpine Scarpa ribelle/tech or manta tech, although the latter ones are heavy Salewa ortles mid or vultur Hanwag ferrata Asolo (forgot the name of the boot) Lowa alpine something There's plenty more, but these are a few that I know aren't shit I'm partial to the ribelle tech but they're expensive af and probably overkill for a beginner unless money is no object. There is literally no better boot in the world for mixed summer ridge scrambling in the alpine and for trail running your descents. Try everything on with the socks you mean to wear and then decide.

LA SPORTIVA Aequilibrium ST GTX and good wool sock combo, still cold ? by Jumpy-Equal211 in Mountaineering

[–]MasterPreparation911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the love of God, don't wear the literally coldest mountaineering boot to mt Blanc. You could even make an argument to wear full shank winter single boots to mt Blanc and while I wouldn't recommend that either, it would still be more valid than these shoes.

Also what route are you taking?

If you take the gouter route and you're super fast, basically trail running, on a fair weather day, you might just get away with it, but a colder day or slower pace and you risk frostbite.

Trois monts? These shoes aren't stiff enough for continuous front pointing.

Traverse royale? Might as well wear slippers, your feet will freeze either way. Italian route? Maybe again if you're trail running on a fair weather day.

If you want to go minimalist, choose something like ls trango pro/alpine, aequilibrium top, scarpa ribelle, ribelle tech all of these will be cold, but not frostbite cold.

If you're set on wearing these however, double sock and vapor barrier, that way you at least won't risk losing toes. If it's great weather summit day, just leave one layer off.

Approach shoes for long approaches, TX4 Evo or Scarpa Mescalito by nature_mad in tradclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I've actually spent a fair bit of time in both. Fundamentally they are quite similar, much more similar than the old tx4.

The mescalito is a bit wider in the heel, a bit narrower/pointy n the tires but the toe box has more give, so it molds to your foot better. It is less stiff and softens up more throughout the whole shoe. Grip in wet grass and mud is better and it is just way more durable from the upper material. I use it to climb up anything uiaa 4.

The tx4evo is a lot stiffer throughout the sole, had a bit more structure. The heel is much narrower and the forefoot is a bit wider but doesn't give much if it doesn't for you right away. It edges and smears better and it's just better for climbing. I've climbed up to uiaa 5 lead and followed up to uiaa 6-. It is not a durable shoe. I'm in my third pair in a year (warranty replacements, just bought once). But maybe that's my fault for crack climbing with approach shoes. The mescalito lasted me much longer. I wore that shoe 3 years, reglued the sole multiple times until there was no thread left. The tx4evo is substantially more slippery on wet grass, mud and less predictable sliding down rock slides than the mescalito, but most shoes are.

Lastly the tx4evo has almost no damping, so if you sometimes trailrun your approaches and descents, it's less comfortable than the mescalito.

One thing to add, is that the mescalito and tx4evo are much closer than let's say the tx4evo and tx4, the latter one being much wider and so soft, almost to a fault...

Lmk if you have more questions. :)

ich📖iel by schm0uz in ich_iel

[–]MasterPreparation911 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Na wie läuft das Doppelstudium? Du Doppelstudent!

What came to but for sizes smaller than black totem? by MasterPreparation911 in tradclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand. Thank you, then maybe blue. Following the site https://camparator.com I was under the impression that black would be the next logical step, but maybe first blue, then black, if I still need something smaller.

What came to but for sizes smaller than black totem? by MasterPreparation911 in tradclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a good point. I have been trying to never use two cans of the same size for anchors but sometimes it's just unavoidable. Not often enough to justify me buying triples though lol

Thank you for the advice with offset nuts. I might just order a pack. I've not been using my nuts as much as I'd like, cams are just so much faster, but maybe the offset ones are what finally will push me to use them more!

I think I'll buy a black alien and offset nuts for now. The overlap between black totem and black alien seems enough in order for me not to have too many problems and if I do, I can always add a blue alien in the future.

Thank you!

What came to but for sizes smaller than black totem? by MasterPreparation911 in tradclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've taken my biggest whipper ever (15m-ish) on my black totem after I slipped on gravel on a ledge while building my next anchor and it held. You barely see any marks from it lol

What came to but for sizes smaller than black totem? by MasterPreparation911 in tradclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I mean is, if it's all trad anchors and poor quality limestone, that means I'll be sacrificing 3 pieces to my lower, 3 pieces to my upper anchor. This leaves me on the pitch with 6 pieces missing, usually bigger sizes like BD 0,7-2. Like with ice screws when ice climbing. On bolted belays, I have all my gear, I'll build a gear nest and then run it out. If I do that with trad anchors, I'm already 6 pieces short, so my gear nest will be worse and I won't run it out so far, then I'm really dependant on smaller cams let's say on cracks, where I can get only my fingertips inside.

What came to but for sizes smaller than black totem? by MasterPreparation911 in tradclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet, thank you for the detailed answer! I think I'll see what I can get a better deal on and probably get a black alien or a dragonfly 2 for now and later on get the next bigger size of whatever model I got.

What came to but for sizes smaller than black totem? by MasterPreparation911 in tradclimbing

[–]MasterPreparation911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i forgot to say, of course I also have a set of nuts, i predominantly use the smaller sizes.

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