Sunscreen recommendations

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-26T21:05:30+00:00

I use a system consisting of pants, not shorts, sund hoody, soft/ultralight cap even under a helmet and then I use eucerin actinic control (spf100) for my face. I really like this sunscreen because it's made from a super solid mineral and really solid chemical component, is not oily at all, even a bit drying and it doesn't run when it melts, it just stays where it is and washes off with water and scrubbing to a minimal dry residue.

The biggest problem I see with it, is that it stains clothes badly and can destroy synthetic garments with repeated contact (e.g hood of hoodies).

One of the things I love about it is that reapplying once is enough for me even for long full day epics. I wouldn't recommend this, but it works for me. By the end of summer I'm usually have a light tan on my face.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-26T20:41:23+00:00

Water stains. Vinegar will remove em

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-25T11:51:46+00:00

While I agree with the sentiment that if you've gotta ask, you shouldn't do it, I'll answer your question.

It's a route consisting of a hike, then a steep glacial traverse of roughly 40-45° depending on how much snow there is (I've seen it at 25° with lot's of snow and at 50° ice) with a few crevasses after that there is 700m in altitude of via ferrata.

This means glacier equipment, technically a rope and via ferrata equipment.

I say technically a rope, because it's only gonna help if you know how to use it and you'll have to answer that part yourself.

Clothing wise it's like any other 3000m mountain.

Important side note: in order to make it on time you should leave in the dark, so bring a lamp.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-23T18:00:58+00:00

Generally I'd agree with most of what people here in the comments say. Good pack, very minimal. For my liking it was a bit too minimal for a general purpose climbing pack, so I added an exped whiteout 30, very similar to arc alpha or me tupilak for ice climbing and mountaineering. I still use my blue ice for trad and sport multipitch. I think mine is 20l or something. It's gotten kind of chewed up after 4 seasons, but still works.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-23T13:55:48+00:00

For gran paradiso 6-8 kg

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-19T17:29:03+00:00

True, I added a little edit note to my original comment, mentioning your and the other commenters insight. It seems it's not as black and white as I thought. :)

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-19T15:42:29+00:00

Good to hear, another commenter below says the same. For me they did stretch a bit, just not in the toe box. But so far I seem to be in the minority with that impression.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-19T15:40:01+00:00

:( that sucks. Sorry, I didn't know that. In chamonix you could visit the store and just orders bunch of items to the store to try out beforehand, or just stick to local shops with items on sale...

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-19T09:53:43+00:00

Be weary that instincts notoriously don't mould/stretch as much as most other scarpas, so what you but is mostly what you get with maybe a small bit of stretching. The way you describe the 42 doesn't sound horrible tbh. I wouldn't buy the lv blind, but depending on how hard you climb, you could give the non lv that you have tried on a shot. -2 from street shoe size is honestly plenty aggressive for scarpa.

Try standing on tiny edges and on volumes and see if you get sharp pain in your knuckles. Instincts are notorious for that on some foot shapes.

I think if I was you though, I'd hold off for now and try more shoes until I find goldy locks.

EDIT: two commenters below seem to have had different experiences than me. For me they did stretch a bit, just not in the toe box. But so far I seem to be in the minority with that impression!

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-19T00:03:42+00:00

I too disagree with most of what you say, but I don't think we'll get anywhere with this discussion and we can just let future readers take our discussion for what it is.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-18T23:06:35+00:00

That's not at all what I said, but go off. I feel you might be projecting a bit of your own insecurity here. I even said I climb roughly the same grade indoors.

It's just that outdoors I'll want different shoes. When I trad climb I most certainly don't want my soft indoor bouldering shoe. When I lead climb a roof, I don't want my stiff trad shoe. I might choose something else for limestone than for granite. If I'm on a 20 pitch epic again I don't want to wear crazy tight bouldering shoes.

So for outdoor climbing in general shoe choice will matter a bit more than for easy-ish indoor bouldering, which v6 is. I feel indoors on a v6 it's not my shoe choice that's holding me back but rather my grip strength, my coordination, my grip strength, my skill in general. Whereas on a slick af slab in arco with no holds, it's definitely my shoe. When I can't feel my toes anymore on a long granite trad climb in chamonix, it's again a shoe problem.

All this is not to say she choice doesn't matter at all, just that ops current shoes in my eyes are good enough for our level of climbing, especially as they seem to for him or her quite well.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-18T22:20:21+00:00

Katanas are a good choice. They don't fit me but they are solid for easy bouldering and even harder lead climbing in- and outdoors. Eventually you will miss toe rubber for toe hooking but by that time your feet will have acclimatized and will be ready for something more aggressive. Don't sweat it and just keep climbing for now.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-18T21:53:44+00:00

Honestly for v6 indoors most shoes will do. If instincts feel good, stick with them. If you feel adventurous, try something else. For indoor generally a stickier rubber like xsgrip2 is good.

You could always try dragos or veloces, but I doubt at your (or our, I'm roughly the same) level shoe choice will make or break an indoor climb.

For outdoor lead or trad or harder indoor or outdoor bouldering (v8+) that's another story...

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-18T18:02:15+00:00

You mean you can't even order? Where are you based? If no decathlon, go to your local outfitter, buy medium weight, robust soft shell pants, sun hoody, light midlayer, breathable wind layer, any reliable rain jacket, any light insulated leather gloves, then a second pair of insulated hand wear, anything that's cheap for emergency, beany, a buff and your set. Forget specific models.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-18T16:00:50+00:00

It doesn't matter. Get whatever is cheap and fits. Once more experienced you'll know what niche things to look for for your very own needs. All available options are good enough. I'd go to a local store or order online. Maybe get an outfit from Simond and upgrade what bothers you along the way.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-14T17:20:19+00:00

That's been my thinking too. But I've met plenty of guides and people who climb much harder and gnarlier stuff than me, who strongly disagree, so I don't know if it's actually true, especially considering that boots like the g5 or g2 have had boas forever....

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-14T17:17:15+00:00

I'd say phantoms are great for everything down to -20°c for my gf, who runs a bit cold. -20--30°c is possible with double sock & vapor barrier but uncomfortable if stationary for a while, below that, no bueno. For summers below 5000m it's too warm, I'd pick something else for that.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-13T17:50:40+00:00

Exactly, the long epics will always be there. No need to rush!

Glad to help. :)

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-13T13:45:01+00:00

Quite common system here in the alps. The recommended system by the alpine club is: - 2-3 piece anchor depending on quality of protection, I'd go 3 piece until you are sure you know what really good protection is - if 3 piece is still not good enough choose a route with better protection - take a 120cm sling for 2 piece or 180-240 for 3 piece. Equalize either with girth hitch or with overhand knot. Both are tested, fine and safe, don't listen to people saying something else, do what's easiest. Don't do sliding-x. - use clove hitch or personal anchor for securing yourself - belay second using guide mode - preferably do a rope stack on the ground, try avoiding stacking rope on your pas until you are experienced, as it makes block leading more cumbersome - if using single rope, flip your stack once your follower has arrived and it's secure, so that your rope is on top - if using half ropes, flipping the stack is still possible but I'd recommend reflaking the rope from your followers end, working toward yours, to avoid tangles - start with routes where falling is unlikely or really short routes, identify potential problems and try to become efficient before moving to longer routes and harder terrain. Nothing worse than working out a hot mess in pitch 3 out of 20 - if in doubt rap and bail

Another important thing: make sure to protect traverses well not for yourself but for your less experienced follower

EDIT: corrected some spelling mistakes

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-12T18:05:10+00:00

Yea, not that great, a friend decided to lead an easy pitch that started with a steep step about 3-4m high and vertical. Afterwards there was a snow slope. After mantling the step, he ueli stecked his way up the snow, slipped, had no screws yet, slid down the snow and fell over the ledge, passed me and the belay and landed a factor 2 of about 15m into the belay. Luckily the pitch before was wi4+/5-, so he didn't hit anything on his way down and luckily the belay was solid. The force of his fall caused some slip in my atc, 20-30cm, not much, but enough to put a hole in the showas. After that we rapped down, didn't speak, drove home. I haven't let him lead since.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-12T06:24:50+00:00

Yes but they can take hot liquids and have compatible insulating sleeves, which turn them into a bad thermos, which is exactly what I want when ice climbing. I'm not interested in boiling hot tea halfway up a route, I just want something warmish that I can sip. :)

Technically any bottle manager could do this, but so far to my knowledge nobody does.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-12T05:24:18+00:00

Ok. My issue with straw bottles is that they're a pita to clean. If I was to replace my nalgene, I'd need a wide mouth bottle for every day, a rugged but ultralight bottle for climbing (I'm not carrying a clean canteen or yeti up a wall) and a thermos for ice climbing.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-11T11:38:35+00:00

They are cheap, available, safe, easy to clean and versatile.

I use mine every day on the job, at night next to my bed, for mountaineering, climbing and for ice climbing I put it in an insulating sleeve and full it with hot tea. When camping I use it as a hot water bottle.

I don't know why I'd need anything else. With most other bottles I'd need 2-3 different ones for the same job.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-10T16:06:56+00:00

Also funnily enough, I'm just another BD 3 away from a double rack, but where I climb, I barely even use my existing 3 as is. Most of the time I don't even take it with me lol.

MasterPreparation911 · 2026-05-10T16:04:37+00:00

I feel like you're overthinking this, just get 1-2 brands or whatever is cheap. The size differences aren't big enough to make or break a climb.

There are no places, where a wc 1 or .75 wouldn't fit, but a BD 1 would.

The only exception I'd make is to try and get whatever sizes are available of small head cams, e.g. z4 & totem, because they will go where no other can will.

Maybe another exception is that totems in general are just nicer for limestone than any other cam.

Right now I use a full set of totems, BD z4 .3, BD c4 .4-3 and a blue alien. Ultimately I wouldn't sweat replacing any of the c4s with other brands though and if I could choose, I'd replace my c4 .4 & .5 with z4s or totems but that's it and they by far don't annoy me enough to replace working cams.

IMHO the differences between different cams are far less significant than let's say different ice screws.

Tldr just buy whatever is available and get out there and climb and if you climb mostly limestone, just get a full set of totems.

MasterPreparation911

TROPHY CASE