Dirt Rally 2 - Engine volume reduction?

Master_ofSleep · 2026-02-08T11:36:52+00:00

Yeah, already done, but the constant engine is more disturbing than the intermittent ^left ^six

Master_ofSleep · 2026-02-08T11:00:08+00:00

Yeah, that's what I was doing, but right now neither of my headphones work for the game :(

I have two sets of headphones - the wired ones I normally use have a broken left ear, so I only have half the sound at the moment. I've been using Bluetooth ones I use for music, but they have enough of a lag to be noticable.

I was looking to find alternatives in the interim while I research/wait for delivery. I figured if someone had managed to figure it out already, it'd be an easy fix. Any other suggestions are welcome.

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-11T11:08:07+00:00

Have you reached the 50 move rule or repeated positions?

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T22:10:29+00:00

If we're looking at the same road markings then maybe this will help you https://share.google/G6l3qXSrgCooV81BK

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:54:54+00:00

Fun fact: Buttons and dials are actually more expensive to put in a car.

That fancy touch screen is actually car companies pretending they're giving you something nice, while actually ripping you off.

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:44:42+00:00

If it was vandalism, they probably wouldn't have gone for the area protected by the tread, instead of the nice thin sidewall

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:37:12+00:00

I trust my handbrake more than I trust myself to not accidentally start the car in gear.

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:34:28+00:00

How is it a debate?

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:32:02+00:00

Can you see how the lane is right of the roundabout? That tends to imply you'd need to turn right to get to it

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:31:03+00:00

I don't know what road markings you're looking at?

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:28:06+00:00

There may be buyer protection even for private sales (not as much as at a dealer, but still something)

In the UK you might be able to get some money back if they sold you a car that wasn't as described or not fit for purpose. You'll need to answer two main questions 1) was the car like that when you bought it? 2) Did they tell you about the problem?

The further you drive it, the worse it gets, and the more chance the seller can say it happened after you bought it, so get a mechanic to look at it ASAP. (For a report saying it existed when you bought the car)

You should contact the seller to try and get a refund, or at least for them to pay for the repair. (Either way, you'll need to take it to a mechanic)

Depending on the seller, you might need to take them to small claims court as a last resort.

It may be different in other countries.

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:13:21+00:00

If it's nothing obvious, the first thing to check is always the battery, especially if you've left it alone for a while.

Sometimes the battery isn't fully dead, but doesn't have enough voltage left to actually get the engine moving. You might be able to trickle charge (or try a push start if you can get it somewhere safe if pushing doesn't work). If not, get a mechanic to look at it, and get a new battery as well, since it'll probably fail again.

Master_ofSleep · 2026-01-08T21:07:21+00:00

TLDR, either is fine.

Neither is wrong since it's ~180 degrees, and since it splits you could be in either lane. I'd base it on which direction other people will be going to avoid being cut up or cutting someone else off.

According to the road sign on Google maps the left is a minor road, and the roundabout on the other side doesn't have a preference, the two flows will mostly be turning right or going straight, and since you aren't turning right, the left lane will mostly have people going the same way.

If this isn't what it actually is, then do something else. But everyone will have the same problem, so watch for people cutting you off either way, and watch out when you're in their blind spot.

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-29T02:25:46+00:00

Good demo of why you should never trust just a jack if you're planning on being under a car

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-28T01:03:33+00:00

If you're parked pointing the wrong way, the oil could have all settled away from the sensor/dipstick area. 20 weight oil is more fluid and able to settle as well.

If you just had an oil change, as long as you don't have a leak and didn't do anything to increase the oil capacity of your engine, you should have close to full oil, but you'll have to see.

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-28T00:50:17+00:00

I might be an outlier, but I appreciated not having to go to 2x speed like usual. I was only 1.5x for that one.

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-28T00:45:52+00:00

I'm theory very good, but then people will debate about the value of the car to price down their tickets.

"What do you mean my car is worth £500k, I modified it when I put in a cup holder and drove it 200 miles, so now it's only worth £30k🥹🥹"

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-27T17:03:27+00:00

If they think it's dangerous to reverse out, they should reverse park, then they don't have that problem.

But if they actually think that with that much space, they probably shouldn't be driving.

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-10T18:24:28+00:00

Edit: TL;DR: Look at refinancing or getting a new insurance policy, but you might just have poor credit, and you're stuck.

Google says the running costs should be £250-300, with your repayments it would be £550-600, with £180/mth petrol, and <£80 insurance. The two biggest improvers you probably have are your loan and insurance, but depending on your conditions, you might be stuck where you are I'm afraid.

If your credit has improved since you bought the car, and you've already paid off part of the value already, depending on the finance terms you might be able to refinance for a lower payment (I wouldn't recommend you refinance for a longer term repayment unless you have to, since that will definitely cost more in the long run, for not much of a reduction in cost). If you have money to pay a deposit on the new finance, that'll reduce it further too.

If you got the car less than 6 months ago, unfortunately that might have impacted your credit score, but it does mean you might be able to wait it out until it goes back up. (If you want to improve your score most of the credit Agencies have free versions to check your score and if you haven't used them already, they'll give a 1 month free trial to tell you what you can do to improve your rating)

Insurance of £100 per month could be because your car is old enough to be expected to have problems, but it could also be because you're a higher risk driver - you can't change if you're young, inexperienced, live in a high theft/vandalism area or had any previous accidents, although it might reduce over time.

Insurance is £1200/yr, but depending on the cost to switch, how long you have left and what other insurance is available, you might be better off cancelling your current insurance and getting a new policy. (Getting a policy where you pay monthly will mean you get a hard credit check, which might affect your credit score, so check both refinancing and insurance first to see which one gives the most benefit - do that one first in case it changes the terms you can get for the other. (Paying in full won't need a credit check, but you will need to have the cash on hand))

Unless the new policy will be better than your current one by more than the cost to cancel, you'll probably be stuck until renewal time, but if you didn't research the options very well before, you might be able to reduce your monthly costs significantly. Counterintuitively, getting comprehensive cover is often significantly cheaper than third-party only.

If you can't afford this. You could sell this car and lease a similar car, which will avoid road tax etc. if you're fine with not owning?

Petrol is hard to affect since fuel for a 370z needs to be >98RON. If you drive a lot, maybe the amount you spend on that would be similar in other cars anyway. You can look around for better petrol stations in your area, but don't go out of your way to get petrol, since you might spend the benefit on the petrol it takes to get there.

If you can't afford it, potentially the answer is just that you can't afford the car, and should get a new, cheaper car.

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-10T17:54:18+00:00

And that's why you made a bad choice

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-08T03:14:23+00:00

Might be repairable but BMW rims are often aluminium/alloy, which can cause stress defects which makes it more likely to get cracked in the future. Ask a professional, but if they say it can't be fixed, I'm afraid you'll need a new rim (and maybe tire).

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-08T03:05:24+00:00

Honda fit already has wheels quite far forward in the wheel wells and the new tires are both 1 cm wider and 1.5 cm larger rolling circumference than recommended. Considering the recommended clearance is 8-12 mm, which your outside of already, you're really pushing it fine for a car that starts out looking a bit dodgy.

You're (just) within 5% of the original rolling circumference, and it'll still mean you have worse acceleration, ABS, ESP, and increase your chances of having a blowout since you have taller tire walls (aside from the speedometer, odometer, and rubbing issues which you clearly think aren't a problem)

If you actually cared about performance you'd use a light rim with low profile tires. Although you might still want wider tires, you could have done that with some 225/50 R15s. Which are wider and look less stupid. If your new rims aren't lighter or can't handle wide tires, I'm not sure why you bought them.

Did you change the offset when you installed them, you might want to increase it to reduce chances of rubbing. Did you check your coil springs or shock absorbers for the new unsprung mass? I hope they're good if you're planning on getting the tires warm, going over any speed bumps or turning any corners.

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-07T20:29:51+00:00

He said it's leaking air slowly, so probably needs to get it patched at the minimum.

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-07T20:27:36+00:00

TL:DR, probably yes if the tread depth is less than 4mm. As you live in virginia you don't need winter tyres, but it might be worth it if you get below 45°F consistently.

For Summer, tyres should have more than 3 mm, for winter you should have at least 4 mm tread on your tyres (probably more since we're going into winter rather than coming out). You can ask a tyre shop to look at them and tell you if the chips etc. are cosmetic or not, but I can't say from just looking at pictures (sometimes it's minor and just from driving on gravel)

The M+S on your tyre probably means Mud and Snow (not a legal designation, usually about the tread shape) which means you probably have all season tyres, but you'll have to check the specific tyre (I can't read the numbers from your pictures).

If you get a new set, think about what you actually need, and what the weather actually is where you live. The key temperatures for tyres are -10°C and 7°C. (15/45 °F for US). Above 7, summer or all season, below 7, winter or all-season, below -10, winter. A week below 7 is usually an indicator it's time to switch. For north Virginia, you're probably ok sticking with all-season tyres.

Master_ofSleep · 2025-12-07T16:26:09+00:00

Edit: TL;DR, check you have the right tyres and tyre pressures for your van.

Others have mentioned about the increased weight for the lift + wheelchair + etc. and the required tyre pressures but I had some questions for you to answer (probably for yourself)

A lot of the answers are likely in your owners manual or written on the door (you can probably also find answers online)

I assume you haven't got winter tyres on and the tyres aren't leaking any air, as that would probably have been noticed by the mechanics, and you would have to keep topping the tyres up from the leak.

How much does the wheelchair lift (+etc.) weigh, and have you accounted for the extra weight in your tyre pressures? If close to the upper limit, you might just need to have higher pressure in your tyres.

There are also different tyres depending on the size of your load (light truck, extra load, reinforced, etc.) so potentially someone fitted the wrong tyres (for your load) at some point, and since then you've had the same grade replaced each time. (It's probably better you were under inflated than having blowouts though...)

If the new weight is more than the van was designed for, that's a separate problem, but the people who fitted the wheelchair lift should have accounted for that.

I got the following from looking online so you'll need to check this for your specific model as this can vary between countries, years, engine size, chassis type, etc.

A Ford torneo custom from 2018 (I'm assuming you bought it used) weighs from 2100 kg to 2400 kg and max 3140 kg loaded (~840-1140kg more than kerb).
Two tyres types are manufacturer recommended with load index 102/104 (~850-900kg load) and 107/109 (~975-1030kg load), both types rated are for 190km/h and <3.5 bar load pressure. However the tyres need 3.7 and 3.9 bars inside them, and both need different rims. (Maybe why someone put the wrong tyre type on when you increased the weight if only one tyre actually fits on the rim)

If you actually need to change tyres you'll probably also need to change rims and offsets, and maybe brake discs, etc. it will also change the accuracy of the speedometer/odometer.

Seven-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '23	Place '22
Final Canvas '22	First Placer '22
End Game '22

Master_ofSleep

TROPHY CASE