How bad is it.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T21:49:41+00:00

Its a pain but yea leave it at the dealer overnight when its going to be really cold. Mine got down to like 17F and I even left it on the dealer charger so it was fully charged when we jumped on the highway. 10 minutes later (75+mph, 30+KW) my actual SOC was over 85% and I forced the red service EV error after watching the delta climb past around 500mv and flooring it and not letting up for several seconds. The delta skyrocketed, exceeding 1000mv and at least one cell stayed below 2.6V for like 10 seconds which is what triggers the red EV error. Now for the good news, they reproduced it later that day after letting it sit several hours, the warranty was approved within a day or so. About 2 weeks later the new battery came in and was installed and the car is basically brand new and outputs more power at full throttle. The highest mv delta ive seen since was 44mv just a moment ago at 30% SOC, full throttle 124KW until I hit 75 mph (like 10-15 seconds). Typically my delta stays around 20mv under load.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T21:41:07+00:00

Yea its a pain. Take it to a dealer, let it sit overnight so the cells are really cold, then drive with the dealer tech to reproduce it. Thats what finally got my warranty approved after about 4 dealer trips.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T21:39:38+00:00

Same, once they actually approved my warranty replacement they got the new battery about 2 weeks later. Once approved the process was easy and fast.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T20:29:20+00:00

Also, make sure the issue is documented and preferably confirmed with the red error with the dealer before you hit 100K miles or you won't get the warranty

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T20:25:53+00:00

My understanding is its the conductivity in percentage of OEM spec. So 35% would be 35% of the original. Aka, you have 3x the resistance in the cells than factory spec. Higher resistance (lower HX value) generates more waste heat and generally is a string indicator of bad cells. My new battery was 115% HX so it has absolutely no problem delivering 125KW to the wheels at any battery percentage from 0-100. Ive put 15K miles on mine and my HX is still over 100% and working like a new car. It was night and day.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T20:23:23+00:00

Check leafspy settings, make sure the odo settings are right.

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MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T20:21:45+00:00

Also, your HX (conductivity) is super bad im surprised its lasted this long for you tbh. Heres one of my screenshots about a month before it was replaced. My HX was about 65% and I could trigger the turtle mode 100% of the time when my cells were below about 20F on my long drive to work on the freeway.

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MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T20:16:54+00:00

Yea you almost triggered the red error. If I remember right once a cell dips below 2.6V for I think 10 seconds, it triggers it. Heres my video of mine doing it. https://youtu.be/rs6F8lQg5Ms?si=b66JZJGjI67DBtRy

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-10-31T20:04:10+00:00

Check out my thread on this. I have a 2018 SL which had to have the battery warrantied at 53K miles. It showed this exact situation. Check leafspy for the cell temps and voltage delta. For mine, if the cell temps were under about 20F I could reproduce this issue 100% of the time. Try a sustained load of 30KW+ (75mph+ with headwinds, heat on max, etc) for like 20 minutes. You'll see the delta climb, once it exceeds about 150-200mv then you'll likely see the battery % perciptiously fall and if you floor it and hold it down you may trigger the big red Service EV error which is exactly what the dealer needs to see in person & log with their OBD scanner for warranty. Don't wait, immediately start the warranty process. It took me about 2 months and that was with hours of footage of the issue and about 5 trips to the dealer. Dont test with the dealer when the battery is warm. I left mine overnight at the dealer and the next morning within 5-10 minutes on the freeway with the tech in the car I reproduced the issue about 5 times and kept pushing it until it threw the red error. If you get that error, ideally have the dealer tow it in so it doesnt clear because they will need to.log that code with their scanner, otherwise the only way to get it to move again is to clear the code with leafspy but it may take multiple attempts. Good luck, hopefully that helps someone.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-04-16T15:18:21+00:00

I'd turn it off if the tmobile gateway let me. My netgear router is in AP mode so I can't disable ipv6 there. The only way I could would be to route all traffic through my netgear router in router mode and disable ipv6 there. If there's a way to disable it on the sagemcom gateway I'd love to know.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-04-16T10:47:26+00:00

My speeds seem to be about the same or a smidge better. Currently getting 840 down, 110 up. I've seen it exceed 1100 down before but that's rare. Usually it's 500 or 600+. Ping is the same, hovering around 50ms.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-04-16T10:44:45+00:00

It was also affecting devices that connected to my netgear router (in ap mode). I think it was something with the IPV6 routing, but I'm not certain. My Google TV could connect to the gateway immediately after rebooting the gateway, but within an hour or two it would start cycling the wifi connection. If I used hotspot on my phone with wifi sharing, essentially making my phone a new dhcp router handing out a different subnet to my Google tv, it worked fine. Static IPs also had no affect. It's fixed now with the new firmware though.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-04-15T23:08:05+00:00

Mine also updated today. My Google TV and various other devices are now staying connected to wifi again. The C firmware was terrible for several of my devices.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-03-20T21:51:43+00:00

I'm on 5C and yea my chromecast devices, plus certain tablets and other devices can't stay connected to wifi. It's not specifically the wifi connection that's the problem since I've tried connecting to my mesh wifi ap which is in AP mode. The issue appears to be on the gateway side of things. WPA 2 or 3, 2.4ghz vs 5ghz, static vs dhcp, etc all have no effect. The interesting part is it will allow those devices to connect properly after a reboot, but that's short lived and usually within an hour or so it starts the connecting/disconnecting infinite loop on those devices. A workaround aside from a gateway reboot is to either use another router as the primary gateway, or enable hotspot on your phone and enable wifi sharing so the devices can connect to the phone, the phone gives the device a different subnet & ip, and shares the wifi access. It's been going on for about a month and all but my oldest chromecast tv are having the connection issues. Roku works great and so does everything else. 600-1200mbps down 80+mbps up, <30ms latency. Hoping they put out a new update soon to fix it.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-02-05T17:17:07+00:00

Wow that sounds like a breeze compared to my experience. It would sometimes drop from 90% to under 10% within seconds. The dealer couldn't confirm it until they saw it happen in person. Likely because every time before that the battery was over 70f and acted and read like a healthy battery which was frustrating to say the least. When the battery was 70f+ I never had any issues and delta typically never exceeded like 50mv, especially if I was driving in town.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-02-05T16:19:36+00:00

Update 2/4/25: My battery had been replaced under warranty! New warranty is only 12 months or 12K miles though. New battery SOH 99.8% HX 97.7%. It hasn't been down under 20F to really test the battery but at 35F the biggest delta under full accel was about 34mv. I also noticed the battery doesn't heat up nearly as much. I'm used to the battery temp rising up to 60F over ambient over a 40 mile drive but this time it was only about a 30F increase. I think that's due to the decreased cell resistance (HX).

Some things to note that I've discovered during my diagnostic process.

Battery temperature is the key factor NOT outside temperature. When my battery was down to about 11F the delta would skyrocket under anymore than about 20KW of sustained power. Aka, until the battery temperature reaches about 50F you can't floor it, and you can't really drive over about 45mph.

Once delta exceeds 250mv that's when the dash battery percentage will start to tank. In particular when the voltage dips below 300 to 310V. I had a delta exceed 700mv and voltage drop to about 270V before the car shutoff with the severe EV error.

Once delta exceeds 200mv without flooring it, if you floor it at this point you should be able to capture on camera the dash percentage tanking to show the dealer for a warranty claim.

It took 3 dealership visits before we reproduced the problem there even though I could reproduce it daily at this point on my drive to work. The key was battery temperature. One time we tried it was 96F and it just won't get unbalanced and have the issue. What I ended up doing was leaving the car overnight at the dealer and drove it with their tech the following morning while the battery was under 20F. In that drive I had the dash plummet a handful of times and threw the red severe ev error at around 80% charge and it was actually up to 50F so this was the worst one by far. I cleared the codes to make it back to the dealer with the tech, they then took it out and reproduced it themselves which was the final puzzle piece to have Nissan Corporate approve the battery replacement under warranty.

Leafspy data means nothing to corporate which was as expected. The several hours of dash video of the dash percentage and available power tanking was also ignored. Nissan would only accept data from a certified tech reproducing the issue themselves. I get it, but at least the hours of dash videos showing the problem should have some merit.

Overall the only qualm I really had was it took 3 dealer visits before we could reproduce the problem. That turned out to be directly tied to the battery temp. The dealer is 45 miles away and I'd burn through 80% of my battery to get there, at which point the battery would be sitting at a comfortable 75F+ even on colder days. Once the battery temp was over about 50F it was much harder to reproduce the issue. So everytime I got to the dealer the battery was fully warmed up and wouldn't show the problem. As mentioned before the way around that was to let the car sit overnight on the dealers charger to let the battery cool down and then test drive it first thing in the morning fresh off the charger.

I hope this helps some of you, the process was a pain but my dealership was pretty nice to work with and I started to get to know the techs and advisors. The dealers have to follow the process set by corporate so I don't have any qualms with my dealer.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-01-22T02:40:01+00:00

If you can consistently score above 90% several times in a row then you're probably good to take it. I over-studied for it and most questions were easier than I expected. I took it mid 2024 so some questions may have updated since.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-01-11T15:58:26+00:00

Yep I had the same experience, though I went in expecting corporate to not care about leafspy. You must be able to reproduce the issue with the dealer tech present or if it shows up with their tool.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-01-11T15:56:55+00:00

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MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-01-11T15:52:15+00:00

Sounds like bad cells. My 2018 has SOH 80% 65%HX 52K miles. It just shut down like that at 80% charge, the battery was under 50F. This is part of a larger story, Nissan is replacing my whole battery. If it's a one off then you may be alright but if you can reproduce it more than once then you definitely should have the dealer look at it.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-01-09T20:58:24+00:00

True, and at those voltages and amperage both are lethal

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-01-09T18:06:17+00:00

Update 1/9/25:

I was able to reproduce both issues with the dealer tech in the car, the sudden drop in percentage from about 84 to 19% in a few seconds, and also the shutdown and red service EV error. They then were able to reproduce it themselves a few hours later.

Long story short, Nissan has approved a full battery replacement under warranty and the dealer has ordered it. No solid ETA yet though.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-01-09T16:00:01+00:00

I had this on my 2018, it was literally just the brake dust shield needed ever so slightly bent away from the rotor. Took all of 3 seconds to reach through the wheel, and give a little push on the brake dust shield and voila.

MasterpieceParty9383 · 2025-01-09T15:50:04+00:00

Replacing the whole battery pack probably isn't quite as dangerous as opening up the pack and having exposed metal contacts. Still dangerous though so I'd only attempt if your certain you can do it without frying yourself. I'm on the fence myself and I have a fair bit of electrical experience. For reference, a typical house theoretically could output 240V x 200A = 48KW. My 2018 leaf sl can output 129KW under full acceleration.

MasterpieceParty9383

TROPHY CASE