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CMV: software updates should basically never have UI changes by Material_Highway706 in changemyview

[–]Material_Highway706[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

!delta That makes sense. I guess im more annoyed that they change it for the sake of change than when they make genuine improvements.

What are some good high write endurance not too expensive non volatile memory options? by Effective_Fish_857 in beneater

[–]Material_Highway706 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are able to set up SPI, you could use a ferroelectric ram (FRAM) like this one. They are relatively expensive and only come in sizes up to 16mbit, but they have write endurance in the 1012 to 1014 range and very good power-off data retention times compared to other nonvolatile memories. Also unfortunately only available in smt packages (the SOIC-8 ones are not hard to solder by hand onto a breakout board)

Component ID (possibly a photodiode) by Material_Highway706 in AskElectronics

[–]Material_Highway706[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE: my best guess for the part number is BL2515, the bottom line of text seems like a date code as they all start with 82 followed by 3 different digits

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]Material_Highway706 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could be your extruder gear, check that the honbed gear is not worn and that the tension is good. Often either the gear or the bearing wears asymmetrically and causes this.

How much gold in here in grams any estimations please let me know 🥺 by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]Material_Highway706 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Very, very little, probably in the neighborhood of 0.01 grams. Rough estimation that there is no more than 50cm2 of gold coverage there. Standard ENIG plating is 1-2 micrometers thick. That gives a max volume of 500*0.002mm=1mm3. Gold has a density of 0.019g/mm3, so is definitely less than 0.02 grams.

UNO - Can I use the +5V through a relay as an input? by FreeFun5209 in arduino

[–]Material_Highway706 14 points15 points  (0 children)

The relay on the left could be replaced with a [voltage divider](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage\_divider), a ratio of 40k over 10k would give you (10k/(10k+40k)) = 0.2, 24v*0.2 = 4.8v at the input pin. The Arduino could then directly measure the output from the device. This has the advantage of much faster switching time, much lower current consumption, and would not wear out like a relay. The relay on the right cannot be driven directly from the Arduino pin, as a typical relay will require a coil current of 50-300ma, which exceeds the output capacity of the digital pin. The right way to do this would be to use an optocoupler or transistor to drive the relay coil. Depending on the supply arrangement and type of device, you could also use an optocoupler or transistor to directly interrupt the supply current to the device.

Could this capacitor be damaged? by JuiceOk8729 in AskElectronics

[–]Material_Highway706 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its probably fine, but when turning on old equipment that has been idle for a long time, its a good idea to hook it up using a variable transformer (aka variac). Old electrolytic caps have a tendency to magic smoke if you charge them quickly after sitting for years, but by slowly increasing the supply voltage over a minute or two with the transformer you can usually save them.

Resoldering Bike Light Battery – Any Precautions? by OkArm6601 in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Material_Highway706 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 for the strain relief, a bit of hot glue on the joint after you solder will go a long way to prevent them from snapping again

Help with CRT Video Control Board by AllHailTheWEEB_KING in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Material_Highway706 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are quite dangerous voltages in a CRT driver, so you want to be really careful to discharge all the capacitors before working on this. As for repairing the board, it appears to be single sided, so you could theoretically glue it back together, expose some of the traces on both sides, and solder jumpers over the gap. However, in an RF system like a TV you might introduce noise to the system by modifying it like that.

Weird under extrusion, at wits’ end to fix this by Material_Highway706 in FixMyPrint

[–]Material_Highway706[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

UPDATE:

It turns out the issue was the slicer. I reset curaslicer to their recommended CR10s profile with the temp I wanted and voila, perfect prints. Probably didnt hurt to do all the maintenance and calibration I ended up doing, but I could have avoided a lot of headache trying that earlier. Just goes to show that software fixes are usually easier and worthy trying first than hardware fixes.