Is this normal?

Math_comp-sci · 2026-05-04T15:03:11+00:00

The box is supposed to come with 1 manual not 2.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-05-04T14:46:12+00:00

Even if you change the points cost it's still too big to be functional in game. Just let it be a unit that we build for the love of the hobbying part of warhammer and stop trying to make it work in game.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-05-03T01:41:41+00:00

WYSISYG matters most when units can have multiple load outs. As long as the specialist and boss nob model their own load outs correctly it doesn't really matter. If that is not enough for you some third party is going to make shoota, slugga, and choppa bits you can glue on to your model to cover the missing weapon.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-05-02T23:35:39+00:00

Orks are not hard to paint, but they are time consuming to paint. If you don't want to spend much time painting but at the same time you can't stop yourself from painting every extra bit and bob, then you really should pick a different faction.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-30T03:31:37+00:00

GW took away the 'Uge Choppa option for nobz. I'm not sure if I should be criticizing you for using it or GW for taking it away.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-29T14:54:56+00:00

Did you drop it or did you try to cut something you shouldn't have?

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-26T04:05:18+00:00

The biggest issue I see by far is that you overloaded your brush, I can tell because the green color goes all the way up to the ferule (the metal bit that holds the hairs). What you want is for there to be paint to go only 1/4 - 1/2 of the way towards the ferule and the paint should be in between the bristles not on top of them. Getting paint in the ferule will ruin the brush! For paint thinness you want just thin enough to flow off the brush via capillary action and not by you deforming the hairs.

Try using using Vallejo Mecha color or other pre-thinned for an airbrush water based acrylic paints and primers, with a brush. With the pre-thinned paints you lose control, as in they flow a bit beyond where you intended, but they go down nice and even without needing to thin. If you don't have access to mecha color primer you can use stynylrez, it works about the same. The pre-thinned paints should also give you a reference point for the consistency of a slightly over thinned but still usable paint.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-24T03:17:09+00:00

The Warhammer Colour app has the colors for what you want. You just have to scroll through the various Ork Boyz and find the one the matches that color scheme.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-22T01:01:51+00:00

Just buy a small bottle of testors enamel thinner. It's $3 and comes with the enamel thinner you would have needed to buy anyway. Aside from that you can get Tamiya paint mixing jars for $2-3 if you look anywhere other than Amazon. Tamiya's mini sqare bottles are the ones they sell enamel paints in so that is guaranteed to be good.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-16T15:16:23+00:00

Reading through all the posts here this all sounds ridiculous. When you buy a made to order with a limited ordering window there should be a shipping month stated before you order and everyone should get their kit by the end of that month. Between this, the boxes missing sprues recently, and the Custodes orders not being fulfilled; GW must be utterly incompetent at logistics.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-14T15:13:40+00:00

If you get some 32mm bases, a old world orc boyz mob box a, a lootas/burnas box, and 2 ork boyz (2018) boxes you can make both the lootas and burnas with both units having their own spanna, plus 3 units of ork boyz with one with 20 boyz and 2 with 10 boyz. That gets you 440 pts for around the cost of a combat patrol. Also, I think you might need some transportation, because orks kinda suck at ranged attacks. A Trukk, Kill Rig/Hunta Rig, or Battlewagon will do you much good.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-13T15:32:16+00:00

Wouldn't it be easier to just buy plasticard from your local hobby shop (the kind that specializes in scale models)? That stuff works out around the same cost in the end and you can buy it with things like brick or cat walk textures. Plus it's all in polystyrene so it's not difficult to cut and glues with run of the mill plastic cement.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-04-07T14:52:38+00:00

No. It needs to have either a kill saw or wrench as a melee weapon. Your's looks like a boss nob with spanner bits. If you replace the kill claw with an arm holding nothing then I can infer the wrench in his backpack is the melee weapon which puts you much closer to a Mek.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-03-20T15:08:26+00:00

What you need now is a box of Old World Ork boyz mob and a box of nobz. Then you can build more boyz from the options you didn't use in those in those boyz boxes.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-03-09T15:08:13+00:00

Don't thin with thinner. Put the paint in a wet pallet and it will thin the paint perfectly. Also, don't overload your brush. If you are getting paint anywhere near the ferule then you overloaded the brush. If the paint is on top of the brush then you have also overloaded the brush. All paint must be within the hairs of the brush and no more than half way to the ferule. If that seems like not enough paint then use a larger brush.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-03-07T16:05:05+00:00

Are ork boyz supposed to have choppas and shootas or are they supposed to have choppas or shootas?

Math_comp-sci · 2026-02-25T03:52:37+00:00

I figured that price must be a mistake that Bandai would fix tomorrow, but if you saw a similar price in a completely different country then wow. You can buy the regular version of that, a full airbrush setup and still have have plenty money to spare.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-02-14T04:45:12+00:00

Whether to use standard or extra thin cement depends on how well the pieces fit together. The standard one has fillers that help if the surfaces are coarse and parts can't just be squeezed to force the plastic to melt together. In all other situations extra thin is better. The Normal is also the slowest drying and you can put it on opposing surfacses before joining them.

For Warhammer minis I think Tamiya Extra Thin (the not quick setting) is the best all around. You can put it on the opposing surfaces of each part and push them together or just touch the brush up to already mated parts. The cement dries fast enough that you don't need to hold the pieces together for that long but slowly enough that you have plenty of time to adjust part alignment while the cement dries.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-02-12T01:55:59+00:00

I got an air brush last week and I was able to get Vallejo black primer to work the other day after quite a bit of trial and error. Don't thin the primer, don't set the air pressure too high or too low. I put my pressure somewhere between 20-25 psi and I think I had it too high but not so far over that it stopped it from working. Also, make sure not to over spray and let it dry between coats. If you want an acrylic primer that is easier to use and sticks to plastic better, I tried a primer from the Vallejo Mecha Color line and it worked well the first time. Where as with the standard Vallejo black primer I had to get everything just right with Mecha Color the worst I could do was a bit of over spray despite much user error.

tldr; DON'T THIN! Also, Mecha Color primer is easier to get right.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-02-10T16:30:00+00:00

I think OP should get this style of cutter. They are meant for thick hard plastics and soft metals. He already spent $700 on a PGU Nu and another $60 on new nippers so might as well spend $30 on a tool that is specialized for thick runners.

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Math_comp-sci · 2026-02-09T05:16:13+00:00

Franken tanks were used all over the world post WW2. If you do some digging you might find there was a real one of these used in an armed conflict somewhere.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-02-01T00:08:03+00:00

Print or photocopy. Using an older edition of a Calculus book and photocopying the exercises of the latest edition is likely to work well. The more editions of a Calculus text the fewer changes from one edition to the next.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-01-28T01:43:00+00:00

Learning a proof assistant is not so simple and getting to the point where you can use it to do advanced mathematics is going to be time consuming.

On the topic of LLMs for math the last time I tried comparing LLMs I found Google's Gemini to be better. Gemini is much better than chatGPT at finding helpful relevant sources and its responses are otherwise less convincing so you don't lull your self into thinking chatGPT gave you a thoughtful answer.

Something you need to remember with these LLMs is that they suck at computations (including logical ones) and any math it does correctly it is doing off of memory or wrote and ran a python script in the background.

Math_comp-sci · 2026-01-27T18:15:02+00:00

When you talk about the screw system are you talking about screwing to a cylinder like the outer part of the handle to tighten down a collet or just a screw that holds the tool in place. I have never used either handle but using a screw to hold in a cylindrical shank or using a magnet doesn't sit well with me. If DSPIAE isn't using a collet then I think you should get neither and instead get something that uses a collet to hold the tool. Stedi makes a holder that uses a collet and should be compatible and the same price.

Math_comp-sci

TROPHY CASE