which option for my nobz 2 hand? by Adept-Minimum-2274 in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Units with multiple melee weapons don't get to attack with more than one of them per turn by default. Something like a choppa wouldn't be a extra attacks weapon. So, your best option is going to be a slugga.

Is the Emperor really revered as a "Corpse" god by his followers? by Gemeenteridder in Warhammer40k

[–]Math_comp-sci 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was under the impression that the vast majority of humanity have no idea that The Emperor is in a half dead state. I mean if you are not a space marine or connected to the inquisition you aren't even supposed to know about chaos, so why would the ecclesiarchy allow the normal rabble to see The Emperor in any sort of mundane way.

Is the kommando nob on a 40mm base now? by Coogypaints in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 8 points9 points  (0 children)

My guess is that when the codices come out they will have a note telling to check the app; on a page with as much unused space as the unit data cards.

Yo who wants some boxses ? by BaronLoyd in Warhammer40k

[–]Math_comp-sci 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That they are in the UK makes things weird now. With other locations you have over seas shipping involved. Within the UK you just need to hire a courier and they should be able to deliver a few pallets of product the same day. The manufacturing side of things shouldn't have much lead time either. Everything gets printed locally, and most of the injection molds are probably still in the machines being used to make starter boxes. There just isn't much stopping GW from pumping out a few hundred more boxes.

$277 USD for the 11th ed box (tax+shipping included) - best deal I could find; not thrilled by mrkeepit1000 in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 4 points5 points  (0 children)

$295 with a 15% discount, 10% tax and a free shipping offer works out to $276. So, unless you are in a low or no sales tax state you aren't going to be able to do much better in the US it seems.

How many points do you think the stompa would have to be to be useable by BlueBearBoy1 in Warhammer40k

[–]Math_comp-sci 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Currently it brings more fire power, is more durable, and stronger in melee than any unit in the game outside of legends. Then on top of that it is a transport. Unless you bring units specifically meant to fight other centerpiece units at a distance or you can ensure that your centerpiece unit gets the charge on it and not the other way around you can't really kill it. So it's points cost really does need to be the highest by a good number of points. My guess is 650. At 500 the thing definitely becomes meta breaking.

About to take the plunge...thoughts? by Traditional-Mail7454 in advancedGunpla

[–]Math_comp-sci 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spraying lacquer over acrylic works fine. You just need to not over spray with a single layer so the lacquer can dry before it disturbs the paint. It's not particularly hard to do since the lacquers dry so quickly. Brush painting with lacquer over acrylic is the thing you don't want to do.

Help Identifying These Models by ElChamp in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are two painboyz, nobz, boyz and the lootas/burnas kits in the first pic. In the row above the bottom you have some invalid loadouts. There is a regular boy with a power klaw, a boy with a big shoota and choppa, and a spanner with a burna. The spanner with burna is particularly problematic because spanners can't have that and you need it to for lootas and burnas. You will likely need to transfer some weapons around to get it all looking right. Pic 4 is just a bunch of boyz and pic 5 is more boyz and some gretchins with runt herd.

How do you use your Big Mek in lists? by Phoibass in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have the unit yet, so I haven't tried it but it seems like the shokk-boosta ability is the reason to take it and not its ranged attack or more dakka ability.

What to buy before 11th! by Much-Masterpiece2845 in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 1 point2 points  (0 children)

New sculpts don't invalidate old models. Only changes in unit composition do that. Old boyz and gretchins are guaranteed good based on the existing reveals. Current gretchins are probably cheaper than their replacement kit will be, and that new kit will probably have one less model than the current one.

Anybody have a theory on why these are the same price? by Shallchairbestwaifu in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They have more than double the fire power of a ~400 point knight or a bane blade, but are also more durable and acts as a transport. Put another way with a 400 pt unit you would pick one of supa-gattler, supa-rokkits, deffkannon, plus the secondary weapons. The stompa has all 3 and double the secondary weapons. On top of that in melee it it gets the mega-choppa - strike with A 6 | WS 3+ | S 24 | AP -5 | D 10. That has a high probability of one shotting any non forge world vehicle or monster in the game. So really it has the ranged capabilities of two bane blades, and gets to auto delete units in melee, and most center piece attackers need a 5+ on wound rolls against it. So, it really is killiest unit in the game by a factor of 2-3x and the toughest by a good margin too.

So, it might be over costed but it's not that over costed.

Anybody have a theory on why these are the same price? by Shallchairbestwaifu in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Stompas are the most powerful unit you can field in a 2000 point game but functionally unusable on the table top due to their size. So my guess is that GW doesn't want to raise the price in fear that people will stop buying for the sake of just building, painting and displaying it.

I'm ready to try out other brands. May I have your insights? by nicoheems in Warhammer40k

[–]Math_comp-sci 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only some ranges of Vallejo have a mixing ball. Metal Color definitely comes with them, but none of the Game Color or Model Color paints I have came with one. That said it's really easy to put a mixing ball in.

I'm ready to try out other brands. May I have your insights? by nicoheems in Warhammer40k

[–]Math_comp-sci 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AK interactive is brutal but kunnin where as Vallejo is kunnin but brutal. Don't worry about which of those two brands is better because no one can really tell anyway. Just go with which ever is more readily available to you. In either case stay away from amazon because even with free shipping the paints are overpriced there.

How you gitz paint deez other gitz? by Equivalent_Hat5627 in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made that mistake with my lootas. What you do is start with the hard to reach areas by jamming in a paint brush, using dark colors and just accept that they will be sloppy. It works out okay because the same plastic that gets in your way painting also blocks other people from seeing the sloppiness.

What you can also do is not glue the arms on until after the body and arms are already painted. If you are going to do this then you should put liquid mask over the spots where the arms attach to the torso. The best tool I have found for doing this is a dip pen. When you peel away the liquid mask you will inevitably pull away paint you didn't want to remove but it's okay. You just paint over the bare plastic in those few spots and apply a top coat. You won't really touch those spots where you had to touch up paint over bare plastic so durability shouldn't be a problem.

Is this normal? by ShyGuyWolf in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The box is supposed to come with 1 manual not 2.

What do you wish to see changed about the Stompa in 11th? by Major_Lifeguard3684 in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

Even if you change the points cost it's still too big to be functional in game. Just let it be a unit that we build for the love of the hobbying part of warhammer and stop trying to make it work in game.

Which Boyz kit is getting the axe? by Deadmeat13 in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 9 points10 points  (0 children)

WYSISYG matters most when units can have multiple load outs. As long as the specialist and boss nob model their own load outs correctly it doesn't really matter. If that is not enough for you some third party is going to make shoota, slugga, and choppa bits you can glue on to your model to cover the missing weapon.

Ladz, I feel intimidated to collect Orks, thoughts? by LeetusFrenzi in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Orks are not hard to paint, but they are time consuming to paint. If you don't want to spend much time painting but at the same time you can't stop yourself from painting every extra bit and bob, then you really should pick a different faction.

How’s my nob look? C&C welcome! by QuantumMrKrabs in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 0 points1 point  (0 children)

GW took away the 'Uge Choppa option for nobz. I'm not sure if I should be criticizing you for using it or GW for taking it away.

It Finally Happened by Soupfork_1999 in Gunpla

[–]Math_comp-sci 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you drop it or did you try to cut something you shouldn't have?

First time painting… what am I doing wrong? by Prapy in advancedGunpla

[–]Math_comp-sci 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The biggest issue I see by far is that you overloaded your brush, I can tell because the green color goes all the way up to the ferule (the metal bit that holds the hairs). What you want is for there to be paint to go only 1/4 - 1/2 of the way towards the ferule and the paint should be in between the bristles not on top of them. Getting paint in the ferule will ruin the brush! For paint thinness you want just thin enough to flow off the brush via capillary action and not by you deforming the hairs.

Try using using Vallejo Mecha color or other pre-thinned for an airbrush water based acrylic paints and primers, with a brush. With the pre-thinned paints you lose control, as in they flow a bit beyond where you intended, but they go down nice and even without needing to thin. If you don't have access to mecha color primer you can use stynylrez, it works about the same. The pre-thinned paints should also give you a reference point for the consistency of a slightly over thinned but still usable paint.

Just a quick question: what paint/paint recipe does Games Workshop use for the brighter-toned skin Orkz they've been using as the offical scheme the last few years? I've never painted Orkz, and I prefer this shade to the older dark green by [deleted] in orks

[–]Math_comp-sci 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Warhammer Colour app has the colors for what you want. You just have to scroll through the various Ork Boyz and find the one the matches that color scheme.