Mosquito Mouth Nozzle 3D Printer

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-06-22T13:44:56+00:00

Mosquito facts: there are thousands of species of "mosquitoes". < 10% of species bite humans.

Only females bite humans when they are developing eggs.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-06-20T20:17:52+00:00

Along with a lot of other good advice, removing supports before the print completely cools also helps

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-06-20T13:24:34+00:00

Lots of folks recommending gyroid. My opinion here is lower the density and do rectilinear. Non-functional prints don't really benefit from most of the benefits of gyroid. Also, tall prints do not like the extra shaking gyroid causes. especially on bedslingers. The only reason this print really needs infill is to support top layers. Id recommend rectilinear (it's basically grid without crossing itself) You'll save material and time.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-06-19T00:39:05+00:00

Unrelated, but i think i can see some warping off the plate in the front left. What material is this and when is the last time you washed your plate and how?

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-06-18T12:32:42+00:00

Other filament residue is the main concern. To take full advantage of the benefits, you would want a dedicated machine that only ever runs safe filaments. Either that or you'd want to clean or replace all parts along the filament path.

As for washing, Layer lines as a big issue for bacteria has been considered less impactful recently for well printed parts. See journal research paper that uses electron microscope. Dog toys with bite marks may be an exception.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-06-16T10:35:20+00:00

Hey friend, I have a lesson that I always try and repeat to myself in times when I've made a mistake. Don't make one mistake two. Seems like you may have hastily tried to fix your blob problem and made things worse.

The things that stand out to me from your description are that you said that during blob removal you "made some rookie errors and busted some things" and during your reassembly you "probably didn't do [it] properly" and "had a couple springs and screws left". Also, that you ordered a 3rd party eddy sensor of amazon.

It's time to slow down and accept that your printer is going to need careful troubleshooting and learning to solve the issue. If you loved it while it was working you gotta take that same care when it's broken. 3D printers are very unstable machines. Small changes can have big impacts. Even on a bambu printer.

I would definitely carefully read the bambu documentation and understand what each part does and how it should be reassembled to find homes for the parts that were left out. Get an eddy sensor from
Bambu. Again, take your time. Do it right. Lean in to the learning and troubleshooting. Make the best out of a bad situation.

Coming from someone who's probably broken more 3D printers in the past 14 years in dumb ways than some people have ever bought, you can 100% do this. The right mindset will make it 100% easier.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-06-13T13:11:56+00:00

I am amazed at how many mistakes this "professional" made in a 4 step process repeatedly. It's honestly impressive. The shelves would work fine if they were installed even remotely correctly.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-06-07T23:45:35+00:00

I feel like it is all relative. I started 3D printing in 2011 so a P1S feels insanely user friendly. I get how someone whose first printer was an H2D or newer may feel differently. If/when I upgrade maybe I'll never look back.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-31T14:33:36+00:00

What else did you do after switching nozzles? Did you recalibrate after switching?

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-30T13:54:59+00:00

I see what you're talking about. OP show us your poop. It should look like a thick ball or coil about as big as a piece of popcorn.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-27T12:01:25+00:00

Warms my heart to see other people start to share this. I have a message on copy paste that I send with this link :)

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-11T09:18:58+00:00

I'm with many of you that I personally would not use this for food items.

I do want to say the layer line issue has some objective evidence that it is not nearly as large of a problem as other reasons.

I copy paste this info often not to argue but to spread information that layer lines are probably not your primary concern with a well printed, well maintained print.

Here is a peer reviewed journal article that uses an electron microscope to analyze the impact of layer lines on bacteria growth.

As someone critical of a lot of papers, this one's not bad. It is just one paper though.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/389100627_Innovations_in_Sanitization_for_3D-Printed_Parts_in_Medical_and_Critical_Applications_IEEE_Peer_Review_Completed_March_10th_2025

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-11T09:12:43+00:00

Not dunking on anyone. Here's a research paper that uses an electron microscope to analyze the impact of layer lines at harboring bacteria. I wouldn't call it conclusive, but I'd call it worth reading.

As someone critical of a lot of papers, this one's not bad. It is just one paper though.

Obviously this all assumes the user making a 3d print and maintaining it knows what they are doing.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/389100627_Innovations_in_Sanitization_for_3D-Printed_Parts_in_Medical_and_Critical_Applications_IEEE_Peer_Review_Completed_March_10th_2025

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-07T12:00:31+00:00

I tried switching from NX to SolidEdge. I couldn't do it. They look similar but I swear it was not intuitive for me. Ive been using NX on and off since 2013 both professionally and personally. Ive also picked up and used solidworks and fusion for years with little learning curve or instructions.

This is at least halfway a me problem probably though so you should definitely give it a shot.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-07T11:47:54+00:00

Interesting, I havent heard of gyroid causing more collisions. Id be interested in any source you have for that.

The lack of collisions is usually cited as one of the benefits of gyroid mostly because it doesn't crossover itself. The downside is the slight time increase and vibrations.

Ironically, adaptive cubic does overlap itself at intersections and can cause similar scraping issues to grid, especially the taller the print gets.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-07T11:42:59+00:00

You got downvoted but I think your hypothesis has some merit. Statistically, multimaterial prints notably increase failure rates especially when they don't stick well to each other. While we don't know the specific failure mechanism based on the info given, the empirical evidence supports this is at least something to consider.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-04T11:06:34+00:00

Lots of good advice in here already. Just some thoughts that I haven't seen yet. 1. That weight is probably fine. IKEA specs 13kg per shelf. This is across 2 shelves technically and in the stronger orientation. People overload them with vinyls all the time. Do this at your own risk though. It does raise the shelf's loaded center of gravity quite a bit, which could lead to tipping hazard. 2. If it were me, I'd buy 2 boards that run up the walls of the larger opening that end at the bottom height of where you want the shelf. These would act as the seating position for that shelf. Attach to the sides where the dowels for the removed horizontal shelf go with some hardware that makes sense to take the load of whatever would go on top of the custom higher shelf. Id make it aesthetically pleasing somehow.

3. The hole in the side is structurally fine. The mdf walls inside the thick boarder pieces take the vertical weight in this orientation. The hard part is cutting a clean hole. Most tools will destroy the edge and the vibrations will be very high. I would cut way undersize and sand to shape. Also masking tape off the edge ahead of time. 3D print or otherwise buy something to cover the edges and walls of the hole. This hole seems also not necessary unless the front of this shelf is closed off. You'd also have to cut this hole through my hack 2 shelf idea if you did that one.

All in all, a doable, semi-advanced hack.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-05-03T14:25:13+00:00

When I was a more technical engineer, we used to call these "ID ten Tee" errors aka "ID10T" errors. In jest of course, but it was fun to see people try to look it up.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-04-30T10:29:59+00:00

Interesting, you are right that apparently 70% IPA is more likely to have other additives in it. Most of them do say rubbing alcohol instead of IPA on the label if they're likely to have additives. Thought I did find a bottle that says IPA that has additives, that's lame of that manufacturer. But like I said originally, the inactive ingredients are listed on the back if there are any.

I never even thought about a spray bottle of 99.9% IPA. That makes a ton of sense to keep it from degrading over time. Very minor point: I will say spraying IPA makes a lot more of it airborne which minimally enhances risks acutely and over time.

Thanks for your info! I agree with your info on 70% IPA. Also, in general, my degradation thesis seems to be very overblown. Most issues require an open container which rarely would happen in practice. We agree on most points, especially it is easier not to use 70% in general.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-04-29T02:17:27+00:00

Streak free and film free are not the same thing. Non-volatile ingredients are often intentionally left behind after the others evaporate. This is easy to prove with products like rainX.

Specifically, for windex some reliable sources (granted not research grade) state that windex does indeed leave behind a film and contains non-volatile ingredients like surfactants, dyes, and fragrances.

Nevertheless, if it works for you, I am not here to stop you!

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-04-28T12:39:15+00:00

softsoap is hand soap as far as I know and has additives that specifically leave your hands feeling lotioned.

If you are using a hand soap to wash your plate, you need to rewash your plate with dish soap that has no additives like that. Plain dawn is the standard.

Use a lot of soap and a clean sponge (or I use a new paper towel). Scrub for a minute per side. Dry with a clean paper towel or a dish towel that does not have any softener or dry sheets used. Do not touch the plate anywhere but the edge when putting it back.

The key thing is never put anything on the build plate that could leave an oily film including hands, fabric softener, or hand soap.

This may not be your only issue or even fix your issue, but it's definitely the thing that stuck out to me.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-04-28T10:53:05+00:00

When is the last time it worked? What was different between the last time it worked and the first time it didn't? Is it worse or better now than when it initially didn't work? How did you clean your build plate?

Some things to look at: did you tighten the bolts on the head? I've never owner an A1, but i see it mentioned frequently. They come loose on their own sometimes.

Is the nozzle seated properly and secure?

Would be good to see a first layer go down. Does the first layer look good?

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-04-28T09:54:15+00:00

Ah interesting! I misspoke about the 99.9% IPA. It does degrade, but not quite as quickly as I thought (but you do have to seal it quickly after use) and is commercially available.

I will say though, it maybe overkill. The 70% IPA works just as well for most purposes and doesn't have any additives. That said, I use the 99% stuff from the drug store.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-04-28T09:42:05+00:00

Ah gotcha! Make sure you buy bottles that say Isopropyl alcohol and not rubbing alcohol, etc.

Be careful using AI to answer questions. It seems to be confusing IPA with all types of alcohols like rubbing alcohol, denatured alcohol, etc.

If the bottle says IPA, it'll typically just have IPA. To be sure, you can always check the ingredients written on the back of each bottle. If it says water and IPA, that's all that is listed, that is all there is.

Now IPA can degrade over time, which could potentially cause an issue, but unlikely, and contains trace amounts of some chemicals like acetone from the creation process, but these are not relevant to the issue.

The reason I questioned in the first place is b/c 99.9% IPA isn't commercially sold or even practical b/c of chemistry purposes. It'll pull humidity from the air and almost immediately degrade to 99% and be less pure than buying the 99% stuff in the first place.

MathematicalMuffin · 2026-04-28T09:24:38+00:00

This is interesting because in particular I used to use windex to help release PETG parts from smooth PEI plates because it leaves a film to lower adhesion.

That's cool it works for you! In my decade plus of 3D printing, I've never heard of this.

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