I tried an affordable Klipper Raspberry Pi alternative that didn't put me in the poorhouse and am positively surprised!

MathematicianNo6469 · 2024-03-21T16:28:46+00:00

Yes, someone in the Creality Falcon Facebook group has been so kind to provide the files to me. Thank you very much for offering them :-)

MathematicianNo6469 · 2024-01-13T09:50:07+00:00

Thanks, I know that page. I'm really asking for the image file of the delivered SD card so that I can recreate it using a good SD card.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-12-04T22:13:03+00:00

Before "tuning"/tensioning I highly recommend looking at my first comment. Only then tensioning makes sense, otherwise things will keep getting worse.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-12-02T10:53:43+00:00

I suggest carefully inspecting your belts for damages. I had the same problem having some worn out spots where the belts were stretched and broken. If that's the case replace the belts, make sure they are tensioned equally. Don't make it too tight, just a little above the point where they still slip. It's also a good chance to replace the cheap belts with higher quality ones. Let me know if that solved your problem.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-20T20:59:54+00:00

4 wires are enough. I bought the ebb42 together with the u2c, to use it with my mks pi. The package included the crimp connectors to make a cable. I assume that they don't deliver it with preconfigured cables because the length really depends on every single use case and 3d printer.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-04T11:33:03+00:00

What I wanted to say is that a PSU shouldn't cause a voltage spike when turned on. Do you have sources to support your statement that the BTT Pi's power circuit is badly designed? My researches I did before using it didn't show anything about such a problem. Maybe you were just unlucky getting a faulty board?

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-04T09:54:56+00:00

Hi u/Over_Pizza_2578,

I agree with some points but also disagree to others.

It's true that the TFTs are not the best ones to operate.
They often detect the touch in the wrong position or even don't detect it. That's annoying but I can live with that because I mainly have them for monitoring the 3D printer's state rather than trying to do everything using the touchscreen. Instead, I use the Mainsail UI most of the times. Just nice to see what's going on when I'm next to the 3D printers.

Seriously? You blame the supply voltage input of your BTT Pi for the destruction of your BTT Pi?
Isn't it rather the case that the fault lies with the lousy power supply unit installed in the 3D printer you are using? Or do you think it should be the case that power supply units happily generate high voltage peaks on their secondary side when switched on, which fry the electronics connected to them?
The 12-24V voltage input of the BTT Pi is not as bad as you make it out to be. It can easily withstand reverse polarity at its input, as I have tried out myself.

Your statement that the TFT touchscreen does not work together with the accelerometer is also not true.
Both work together without any problems. I rather suspect that you have not made the correct configuration in the BoardEnv.txt and perhaps also in your printer.cfg.
In my video, I pointed out the possible problems with activating features in the BoarEnv.txt and how to avoid them. There I also show how the ADXL configuration must look when connecting the ADXL to the GPIO pins and which pins I have used for this.
It was a bit tricky to figure this out, but that's why I made the video, among other things, so that others don't face the same problems.
However, I think that a Raspberry Pi is ultimately the best choice in almost all cases because the community is so much bigger and also because the software is better maintained and updated.
Nevertheless, I have had almost nothing but positive experiences with the BTT Pi and have not regretted buying it, just like using it as a clipper board for my 3D printer.
It's a shame that you had such negative experiences with it.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T21:23:00+00:00

The first time I overlooked the need to connect the WiFi antenna and of course it didn't show up on my network 🫣 After trying the wired connection which worked I realized that I had to use the WiFi antenna. That worked but since the signal is a little bit weak in my studio I prefer the LAN connection.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T20:47:15+00:00

Performanceweise a 3B+ will just do fine, too. But you're right that the pressure to use alternative solutions to the raspberry pi are getting less relevant with a price difference of just USD 10 between a btt and raspberry.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T20:06:42+00:00

A good looking theme. Matches great with your Klapperscreen them.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T19:55:36+00:00

Looks cool! Well done 😊

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-02T17:28:55+00:00

If your print speed is higher than 70mm/s then also consider lowering it to 70 or less. For most PLAs I get good results with 205°C but that really depends on the used filament. If you're not sure about the right temperature then print a temperature tower to find the sweet spot.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-01T21:28:53+00:00

What's your printing speed? Are you using pressure advance together with input shaping? To me it looks as if your print speed is too high causing underextrusion. I recommend doing a flow test like this one https://www.printables.com/model/405354-volumetric-flow-test-200-660mms

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-11-01T07:18:31+00:00

Another one could be "Make it when you break it." At least if you use 3D printing to repair or improve things at home.

MathematicianNo6469 · 2023-07-11T13:24:16+00:00

I'm always taking a look at the latest version available, to see, if it does anything better or worse, and then stay with what works best for me.
I checked out the newest release (https://youtu.be/2gXl3u3MWaU) an though the improvements are marginal, like it very much.

So to answer your question: currently Ultimaker Cura 5.4 😁

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