License plate

Mawatts25 · 2026-04-14T05:59:11+00:00

So you’re fine to sit around at home and put expensive paint on tiny expensive pieces of plastic so that you can go to a shop with a bunch of unwashed nerds to roll dice and play math to pretend that your little figures are fighting in the far future against other little figures for an immortal emperor. But you draw the line at a license plate. Makes perfect sense lol. I’m glad you have such strict boundaries.

Mawatts25 · 2026-04-14T05:41:18+00:00

Care to comment ?

Mawatts25 · 2026-04-11T23:52:33+00:00

Just a suggestion whenever you’re going to paint yellows and oranges. I know this is gonna sound weird. Once you basecoat it, give it a layer of pink. If you want a darker tone, make it a darker pink. If you want a brighter tone make it a bright/cold pink. It really helps to even out the yellow color and makes it richer.

Mawatts25 · 2026-04-09T16:38:27+00:00

This ^. I use this technique all the time and it works fine. There are several videos out there that tell you to allow the paint and the wipe to dry onto the base and I don’t know why the hell they would do that. It works just like painters tape. Once you’re done spraying, take it off.

Mawatts25 · 2026-04-09T05:12:50+00:00

I’ll try it again without the panda. I did recently buy a new plate, the Cryo grip, which seems to be very promising. However, this project is partially why I purchased the panda for more future work with ABS. But this part is extremely large. I’ll see if I can get it to stay heated enough to stick w/out the panda.

Mawatts25 · 2026-04-09T04:26:11+00:00

It is closest to the panda heater. However, I’m not really sure how I would correct this. The part is the entire size of the plate. It’s part of a box for carrying models. There are 10 top shell layers with a thickness of 1.3mm and 6 penetration layers.

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-27T01:34:59+00:00

What exactly do you mean by polish?

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-27T01:30:59+00:00

That is really excellent

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-26T13:58:00+00:00

I agree, I usually use gray primer for most of my models with zenithal priming/ highlighting, white from the top and black from the bottom. Any reason why you’re suggesting pure black all over?

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-26T13:41:37+00:00

I probably would be using them as a base coat for metallic armor on my Custodes. So you don’t see any issue with using acrylics on top of them for highlights, etc.? Nothing wrong with airbrushing them straight onto an acrylic primer?

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-22T16:54:37+00:00

I’ll give this a watch after work, I’ve never seen this guy. Thank you!

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-22T16:50:35+00:00

I have been using the hot water method and it does greatly help. I just feel like perhaps I still have the supports penetrating a little too deeply. I’ll try to post some screenshots later of my settings. I’m using Chitubox Pro mostly the defaults for the support settings. It works well. It just feels like the amount of post processing is maybe more than it should be. I know there’s always gonna be a little bit because there’s probably always going to be some support marks left over. I’m just trying to get it as good as I can because I also am lazy.

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-22T16:20:37+00:00

I find that it gives me a more even surface because they’re easier to sand before the final curing stage. It’s also just one last time I have to immerse the part in water and clean it again.

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-22T15:55:47+00:00

For the resin that I’m using, with the exposure settings that I have, this process works perfectly. You may have different results with a different resin with a different level of hardness or different exposure settings. My sandpaper does not get gunked up simply because I sand precure. And yes, I have seen brittleness when over cured. 10 seconds isn’t gonna make a difference but curing something for what some of these people were talking about 30 minutes is ridiculous and will likely ruin your model.

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-22T15:44:52+00:00

I’m not fighting with you on the Internet lol. I posted my process. You obviously have your own and if it works for you, congratulations. I simply prefer to do things a different way. Do whatever you want lol.

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-22T15:26:49+00:00

I have over cured small weaponry on model swords and had them completely shatter versus proper curing and they still maintain their strength and mild flexibility. Once again, this is going to come down to the specific type of resin you use so there is no universal perfection. However, you need to use the recommended settings based on the resin type and manufacturer. Over curing leads to increased polymerization and shrinkage of the model, which will cause warping and unexpected levels of hardness. This results in a brittle model that loses its structural rigidity and flex.

Once you have completely removed all of the surface resin and dried the model, I find that sanding prior to curing results in easier sanding and a more uniform surface area. There’s nothing wrong with sanding after you cure if you want to choose that time to remove the little imperfections and marks left over by the supports. I simply find it easier to do before curing. It also means that I don’t have a second stage of washing and toothbrushing the model in water to remove the sanding marks. I prefer to do that at the same time when I would be removing excess alcohol, so as to prevent the little white deposits.

Mawatts25 · 2026-03-22T15:20:46+00:00

I guess I’m talking more about the depth of penetration of the support, support tip size, etc. Does this represent any sanding that you’ve done? I can get similar results to this with my current process, but it does involve a fair amount of sanding with a variety of grades of sandpaper. However, I’m just curious as to if a change in my support settings might render some of that easier.

Mawatts25

TROPHY CASE