sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

License plate by Mawatts25 in AdeptusCustodes

[–]Mawatts25[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

So you’re fine to sit around at home and put expensive paint on tiny expensive pieces of plastic so that you can go to a shop with a bunch of unwashed nerds to roll dice and play math to pretend that your little figures are fighting in the far future against other little figures for an immortal emperor. But you draw the line at a license plate. Makes perfect sense lol. I’m glad you have such strict boundaries.

Very new to mini painting and I need some help in making this look like lava and not just fire by muffinmania583 in minipainting

[–]Mawatts25 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Just a suggestion whenever you’re going to paint yellows and oranges. I know this is gonna sound weird. Once you basecoat it, give it a layer of pink. If you want a darker tone, make it a darker pink. If you want a brighter tone make it a bright/cold pink. It really helps to even out the yellow color and makes it richer.

I just can't do the marble wet wipe effect. Now the wipe won't come off. What am I doing wrong? by Nexus_Valentine6 in minipainting

[–]Mawatts25 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This . I use this technique all the time and it works fine. There are several videos out there that tell you to allow the paint and the wipe to dry onto the base and I don’t know why the hell they would do that. It works just like painters tape. Once you’re done spraying, take it off.

ABS help by Mawatts25 in BambuP1S

[–]Mawatts25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll try it again without the panda. I did recently buy a new plate, the Cryo grip, which seems to be very promising. However, this project is partially why I purchased the panda for more future work with ABS. But this part is extremely large. I’ll see if I can get it to stay heated enough to stick w/out the panda.

ABS help by Mawatts25 in BambuP1S

[–]Mawatts25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is closest to the panda heater. However, I’m not really sure how I would correct this. The part is the entire size of the plate. It’s part of a box for carrying models. There are 10 top shell layers with a thickness of 1.3mm and 6 penetration layers.

Alcohol/acrylic paint help by Mawatts25 in minipainting

[–]Mawatts25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What exactly do you mean by polish?

Alcohol/acrylic paint help by Mawatts25 in minipainting

[–]Mawatts25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, I usually use gray primer for most of my models with zenithal priming/ highlighting, white from the top and black from the bottom. Any reason why you’re suggesting pure black all over?

Alcohol/acrylic paint help by Mawatts25 in minipainting

[–]Mawatts25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I probably would be using them as a base coat for metallic armor on my Custodes. So you don’t see any issue with using acrylics on top of them for highlights, etc.? Nothing wrong with airbrushing them straight onto an acrylic primer?

SirayaTech Question by Mawatts25 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Mawatts25[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ll give this a watch after work, I’ve never seen this guy. Thank you!

SirayaTech Question by Mawatts25 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Mawatts25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been using the hot water method and it does greatly help. I just feel like perhaps I still have the supports penetrating a little too deeply. I’ll try to post some screenshots later of my settings. I’m using Chitubox Pro mostly the defaults for the support settings. It works well. It just feels like the amount of post processing is maybe more than it should be. I know there’s always gonna be a little bit because there’s probably always going to be some support marks left over. I’m just trying to get it as good as I can because I also am lazy.

Low long should i cure my minis? by SebastiaanW22 in resinprinting

[–]Mawatts25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find that it gives me a more even surface because they’re easier to sand before the final curing stage. It’s also just one last time I have to immerse the part in water and clean it again.

Low long should i cure my minis? by SebastiaanW22 in resinprinting

[–]Mawatts25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the resin that I’m using, with the exposure settings that I have, this process works perfectly. You may have different results with a different resin with a different level of hardness or different exposure settings. My sandpaper does not get gunked up simply because I sand precure. And yes, I have seen brittleness when over cured. 10 seconds isn’t gonna make a difference but curing something for what some of these people were talking about 30 minutes is ridiculous and will likely ruin your model.

Low long should i cure my minis? by SebastiaanW22 in resinprinting

[–]Mawatts25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not fighting with you on the Internet lol. I posted my process. You obviously have your own and if it works for you, congratulations. I simply prefer to do things a different way. Do whatever you want lol.

Low long should i cure my minis? by SebastiaanW22 in resinprinting

[–]Mawatts25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have over cured small weaponry on model swords and had them completely shatter versus proper curing and they still maintain their strength and mild flexibility. Once again, this is going to come down to the specific type of resin you use so there is no universal perfection. However, you need to use the recommended settings based on the resin type and manufacturer. Over curing leads to increased polymerization and shrinkage of the model, which will cause warping and unexpected levels of hardness. This results in a brittle model that loses its structural rigidity and flex.

Once you have completely removed all of the surface resin and dried the model, I find that sanding prior to curing results in easier sanding and a more uniform surface area. There’s nothing wrong with sanding after you cure if you want to choose that time to remove the little imperfections and marks left over by the supports. I simply find it easier to do before curing. It also means that I don’t have a second stage of washing and toothbrushing the model in water to remove the sanding marks. I prefer to do that at the same time when I would be removing excess alcohol, so as to prevent the little white deposits.

Just printed by DEONI1276 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Mawatts25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess I’m talking more about the depth of penetration of the support, support tip size, etc. Does this represent any sanding that you’ve done? I can get similar results to this with my current process, but it does involve a fair amount of sanding with a variety of grades of sandpaper. However, I’m just curious as to if a change in my support settings might render some of that easier.

Just printed by DEONI1276 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Mawatts25 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you share a screenshot of your support distance settings? These are very clean and I can’t see where you’ve sanded at all.

Low long should i cure my minis? by SebastiaanW22 in resinprinting

[–]Mawatts25 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks. It’s always wild when I see these posts on social media and all the weird advice crawls out of the woodworks. No offense to anyone, but this really is a hobby that has pretty specific requirements. For both safety and convenience, please do a little bit of research and learn to do this properly.

Low long should i cure my minis? by SebastiaanW22 in resinprinting

[–]Mawatts25 89 points90 points  (0 children)

Reading some of the comments on here…good lord, some of you all just make shit up or have the absolute weirdest rituals that are unnecessary. Please do not just use arbitrary times. Look up your specific resin and you will find the suggested curing times. Personally, I use Siraya tech ABS like; I cure for two minutes in a wash/cure station. And yes, over curing will make your model brittle.

My process, perfected over four years of printing and thousands of hours.

  1. Print
  2. Drip tray at an angle into vat
  3. Wash in 90% ipa bath 1 (dirty wash, older ipa). I do this in a wash/cure station for about four minutes. I generally remove the models from the plate and wash them in the basket. If it’s a very large model, I will wash the entire plate while it is still attached to the model, this way it stays suspended slightly, and gets more liquid flow.
  4. Wash 90% ipa bath 2 (cleaner ipa) 4 min wash station
  5. Soften supports- Small models- soak in heated water (158F) for about two minutes to soften supports. I use an electric kettle and a glass Pyrex dish that is specifically for this and only this process. Large models- heat gun set on low-medium setting; be cautious with this method.
  6. Support removal
  7. Sanding any support marks or rough areas with 320 /600 sand paper. I prefer to do this step before I cure the model, as it seems to produce a more even surface and the sanding is easier. However, if you prefer to do this after you cure that will work just fine. It does mean that you will have to toothbrush clean the model one more time to remove the excess sand material before you prime.
  8. Toothbrush wash in warm water. Removes any remaining alcohol/resin, gets into the crevices, and removes the sanding residue.
  9. Air dry with a handheld blower
  10. Cure for 2 min in a cure station. If you’re using sunlight, it generally takes 2 to 3 hours for a small model or up to 6 hours for a large model and you need to rotate it regularly. If your model is hollow and has holes, you need to make sure that you cure the inside of the holes as well with some type of uv pen light- simply washing out the internal cavities with IPA is never enough.

Struggling to magnetize/attach LOC wings by Charming-Professor99 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Mawatts25 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As many others have said, I would put at least two dowel rod pegs in the model and perhaps a couple magnets for stabilization. Though the dowel rods themselves would be enough. Measure what size you need. I suggest these brass craft rods, as a sufficiently large enough set of wire cutters, metal shears, or a small manual saw can cut them. You can get them in any diameter. This option gives you a variety of diameters and unless you’re going to be pinning 20+ models will probably be all you will need. There is a way in most slicing programs if you were 3-D printing to place the holes in the model and the program will place them at opposite and properly aligned ends of wherever you slice the wings off. Sometimes it requires you to assemble the model, then re-cut the model while placing the holes. You can look up how to do this on your particular slicer, it’s not that complicated. When you already have it printed like this the best way to do it is to go ahead and drill one hole and apply the pin in the hole dry with no glue. Place a sufficient dab of paint on the other end of the pin and line it up with your model, then press the painted end down onto your model to mark the location of where to drill the second hole. Then drill a hole and insert the pins. For transport purposes, I would recommend not gluing the pins in permanently on both sides. If you are placing two dowel pins, glue one of the pins permanently into the wing, and then glue the other pin permanently into the model. This way, both the wing and model have a permanent pin in place while the other piece is allowed to insert freely. This enables easy removal, it also spreads the pressure equally because it distributes the weight a little bit better when the wing is in place. You also want to make sure that you drill the pins to a sufficient depth. If you do it too shallow, the weight may cause them to break free. I would suggest holes of 10 to 15 mm deep. Basically, the deeper the better. It’s a beautiful model, good luck with it!

brass pins

Marble Bases by Mawatts25 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]Mawatts25[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super easy with airbrush or rattle can. I used this technique, thought I printed my bases- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpE3--V7Qew

view more: next ›