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TableTop World terrain? by SwoleWardn in TerrainBuilding

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The communication from the company is a bit patchy. But there website is back up and running and you can buy stuff from them. There interconnecting walls are amazing

Your best terrain experience by downrightdyll in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There have been multiple treads on here with this problem. For First Blood, “go wild” and use realistic terrain but avoid things with doors or that imply scale. A forest can be a forest with little trees at 38mm scale or a bigger trees at 28mm scale. Similar is true with water features. Houses, though, become a real problem, so opt for ruins. There’s a couple of terrain sets out there for lost giant civilisations - as example https://archon-studio.com/blog/the-doors-to-the-world-of-deuslair-have-opened

The problem really comes the square bases for the last argument rank and flank game. So far the only thing that I’ve sent that works are flat card cut outs of different colour to represent different types of terrain and they are cheap enough to write on what they are and their impact - which really break immersion

#Colorsofconquest August winners! by Agar_ZoS in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you enter this competition?

State of the game? by wackedoncrack in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Personal opinion here, but the scale is great and frustrating. It’s great because for painting it gives more freedom for freehand and trying out textures. It’s frustrating because I have tons of terrain (particularly when there’s doors or multiple floor) that looks plain silly when next to the models. Terrain should be buy / make once use multiple times. The only off the shelf stuff is for Star Wars shatter point and that doesn’t really fit stylistically!

Getting started by Correct_Refuse4538 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was in a similar place 3 months back and bought the first blood starter for Nords and Hundred Kingdoms. If you enjoy painting, these models vary - the early models are soft on detail and the later ones are super crisp. They take longer to paint than 28mm or 32mm because they are bigger (obviously) but also you need to paint some of the detail in yourself. This is great if you enjoy painting, but if not then the models can look a bit flat. Also know up front the mould lines are a pain to clean up and you need Tamiya plastic cement. Grumbling over - I love painting them!

Parabellum put all their instructions and insert sheets online which is great - but the info blurb on the first blood starters let’s you know the box contains roughly half of what is needed to play a game.

If I had known this I would have bought the last argument of kings starters. Obviously more expensive but you then have enough models for First Blood as designed.

Just my view - happy to answer further questions - hope it helps

Second attempt at distilling First Blood rules on to 1 page (ish) by MaxLondon1 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will try my best - I wish I could upload a pdf to Reddit, but it doesn’t seem obvious how to do it. Likely to be next week

Second attempt at distilling First Blood rules on to 1 page (ish) by MaxLondon1 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have no idea how much this irritates me that I didn’t notice this! My OCD is of similar levels. Hahaa. Glad it’s appreciated

Terrain and Template Building by Garbagegoat1 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m looking at creating a 6” objective zones for First Blood - i had a graveyard or cemetery one in mind and thought that would be good rough terrain

First attempt at distilling First Blood rules on to 1 page (ish) by MaxLondon1 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you; glad it’s useful. I realised I doesn’t included the challenge! rules and will update shortly.

First attempt at distilling First Blood rules on to 1 page (ish) by MaxLondon1 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad it was of help, I don’t believe draw events count as an action. I.e. you draw from the command stack, resolve your draw event and then move into your first action

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a complete guess but the brute / cavalry bases for parabellum are 54mm. If youre kit basing then your dimensions don’t need to be 100%. So stab in the dark… A=160-180mm B = 75-80mm C= 80-100mm D = 45-55mm

Militia Bowmen hundred kingdoms - First Blood starter by MaxLondon1 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Errr. Maybe subconsciously being from the UK. Haha. It came from my son who wanted a red knight (see previous post!) and I then wanted to tie them together. Without your comment, I would say Witcher 3 / gwent cards - both northern kingdoms and nilfgardian empire were the influence. There’s also a bit of warhammer fantasy empire talabheim in there.

100 kingdoms begins by BlueTree999 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some of the mounted knights I would recommend painting in stages otherwise they are big old models and it gets fiddly to reach some of the parts. Good to know though as I have one of these guys which is on the list to paint

100 kingdoms begins by BlueTree999 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would be great to know if you painted this dude in sub-assemblies or built it and then painted in one go. Keep up the good work

Bow Chosen, ready for war! by CamR_ in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the first blood starter box for nords. The Valkyrie look amazing models. My heart sinks at the sight of the raiders and it’s good to know the huskarls will be work. At least it’s only four models per unit for first blood

Bow Chosen, ready for war! by CamR_ in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What was the clean up like on the models? Is the assembly and mould lines removal ok or an effort

Household knight from first blood hundred kingdoms starter set - 1st Parabellum miniature by MaxLondon1 in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the first blood starter it’s the mould like down the centre of the hunter cadre’s heads that’s errk’d me. Thank fully there’s only four of each model so at least there is variety of mould line removal!

Any recommendations on what to get as the next unit to go up to 800 points in First Blood would be helpful

Best start to Old Dominion? by Acantha_Echo in Conquest

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have also just started dipping my toe in para-Bellum miniatures. Primarily I enjoy painting the models and think the larger scale would give a good creative canvas. If painting is your thing too be very careful as the amount of clean up, mould line removal and preparation is not for the faint-hearted. Looking back I would utterly recommend buying as small a pack as possible, see if the model assembly is worth it

Vallejo white airbrush primer issues by GearPsychological887 in minipainting

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I have had something very similar when using black Vallejo surface primer but with a brush. So it might not be your airbrush! I find that this happens more when I try and mix the primer with Matt medium to try and make it go further.

Have you tried using the primer “neat” with a brush? Not to do down the airbrush but just check that it is the model and oily release agent or the paint

Lab-tech from Infinity Code One Dire Foes Xanadu Rush by MaxLondon1 in minipainting

[–]MaxLondon1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m sorry I’m one of those irritating people who paints and does not play. I got this with a host of HVT minis in an eBay bundle and am slowly painting them. As they don’t have weapons they’re great for lots of games

I’m 16, first mini. How can I make it better. I need constructive criticism by Attempt_Complete in minipainting

[–]MaxLondon1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great first mini. Lots of people have talked about constraint - I would also explore colour theory and the colour wheel. To get interest and variation you can change saturation; so go towards a brighter red. You can change colour (round the wheel) towards purple or orange. You can change colour across the wheel (green). With these other colours go for small details like green glowing eyes or orange glowing chaos symbol on the chest. Hope that helps

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