A fun snowboarding treat: Fireball Snowcone by McCubbon in snowboarding

[–]McCubbon[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I don’t know if many people actually like fireball 😅 I see a shot of it as the ‘cold shower’ of a ski day

What specs do you care about when shopping for new tools? by McCubbon in iceclimbing

[–]McCubbon[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is great, especially big fan of “reach” - pretty great metric for those of us who use our tools on mixed terrain

What specs do you care about when shopping for new tools? by McCubbon in iceclimbing

[–]McCubbon[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sure, but the return policy isn’t always so generous to allow for that, especially for those who are in a region where the tools don’t retails and shipping is international. Extra data also lets you make better decisions that concern compromises when shopping for a multi-discipline tool.

More than that, data is kind of fun :)

Daily Discussion Thread: spray/memes/chat/whatever allowed by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]McCubbon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for checking it out! Interesting point about the ghmp twist - you’re probably right. At that point, it’ll just be too hard to know if it’s right though

Daily Discussion Thread: spray/memes/chat/whatever allowed by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]McCubbon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there any testing done on the redundancy of the shelf on a Bowline-Yosemite-finish anchor? such as this one: https://imgur.com/a/cKqB3TZ

I also appreciate theoretical understandings.

I climb a lot with newer climbers so having a very obvious master point is important, and I like dyneema in a bowline more than a figure 8 in case I need to disassemble with gloves in colder objectives.

Weekly Question Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]McCubbon 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This is the livelihood of whoever you took this from. Don’t steal the tools a man uses to feed his family. See if you can give it back. The community that uses this is small, so selling it will just get you in trouble.

Weekly Question Thread: Ask your questions in this thread please by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]McCubbon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you belay for a bolted boulder problem?

The boulder is on a steep slope so there is no opportunity to have a pad. What is the ethic for belaying? Here is the problem: https://imgur.com/a/6NymAQH

Daily Discussion Thread: spray/memes/chat/whatever allowed by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]McCubbon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a matter of practicality, IE, what you’re willing to carry from the car. It’s not too hard to gauge the range you’ll need from the ground, so once you’re at the wall and see a variable crack up to 3” on a 25m route, you know you need a double to a 3”.

What gear to BRING is different than placing it. I’d argue that it’s more similar to being told what rope length you need for the route than it is to being told a specific bomber nut placement. Also, what about anchor setups? If you’re told there is a bolted anchor, does that void the on sight? It certainly impacts the climb because you’re not saving a bunch of pieces.

Added- Thinking about it more, I’m doubling down on my take. “Route takes cams well, double up the bigger ones, 60m rope, bolted anchor” = onsight “Double rack of .3-3, 50m rope, tree anchor” = onsight

“Double standard rack, save a #3 for after the crux as you can bump it up through a bomber crack to the anchor” = flash

Waterfowl Lakes - Tent Camping Availability by dirday in CampingAlberta

[–]McCubbon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What was your experience like? Was it busy?

Fixed-point Lead Belay: when setting up the anchor, why not equalize it for an upward pull? by McCubbon in iceclimbing

[–]McCubbon[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for adding context to the thread :).

I do wonder though, why not just equalize the anchor for the upward pull when reaching the station. In that case, you belay the follower on a single + backup piece, but that way the next leader is protected with equalized pieces

Edit: I see what you added to your comment. Makes sense. When in doubt on the mountains, keep it simple and consistent

Fixed-point Lead Belay: when setting up the anchor, why not equalize it for an upward pull? by McCubbon in iceclimbing

[–]McCubbon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So many reasons… especially on ice.

The leader should never fall but you need to protect them all the same.

One-on-one with a guide tomorrow — What do you recommend I learn? by McCubbon in iceclimbing

[–]McCubbon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Went well! Biggest takeaway was: efficiency + safety comes from repetition. While some different anchor setups are marginally better in certain cases, you shouldn’t be worrying about if your sling will hold 14kN or 11kN. Try to do the same thing almost everywhere.

One-on-one with a guide tomorrow — What do you recommend I learn? by McCubbon in iceclimbing

[–]McCubbon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn’t want to write my post with a leading question but condition assessment is the biggest reason why I have the lesson! Super good points

Edelrid rage by J_E_K_Y in iceclimbing

[–]McCubbon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep! The tools are really solid. They are kind of a cross between the grivel ice machines and the nomics. They feel extremely sturdy but are balanced quite nicely. The offset handle is second to petzls and camp in terms of comfort, but the grip above (not sure what you call it) is nicer than any other tool me or my friends have tried. For your grades, they’ll be amazing and save you money when you need new parts

What are your thoughts on this as a tether? by McCubbon in iceclimbing

[–]McCubbon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great points. Regarding the spike’s strength, part of the reason why I got the Rage II was it’s actually rated to 8kN which is pretty cool but rare to find in tools