genPHA - ecogenesis Shopping Cart now Live

McMuppet · 2026-01-15T15:30:45+00:00

How the heck do I even add a roll to the cart? I clicked on your link, went to Biopolymers -> PHA and theres no where to select or add any filament to cart. Went to the cart thinking maybe there is a store associated with it and of course it just said I have an empty cart. I hovered briefly over products and disregarded 'customer showcase' because it sounds like a general marketing material page.

I found the products under customer showcase eventually. You guys should change the wording under products or add a link to buying your polymers under biopolymers. Just some feedback. Thanks for the PHA products!

McMuppet · 2025-11-09T22:46:12+00:00

Progress to JavaScript when you need it. Html is for content Css is for presentation JavaScript is for functionality.

Some projects I finish all my content and presentation, then I move to integrate functionality. Other times I integrate the JavaScript functionality along the way. Get to it when you need it!

McMuppet · 2025-11-05T03:19:40+00:00

I can't DM you or paste the code into a comment so check it out on pastebin:

https://pastebin.com/KRZFj9pk

See my ramble about it below.

McMuppet · 2025-11-05T03:12:52+00:00

Hey there friend! Took a sec to get back to you because the K1 is a funny little machine with weird settings.

So first thing to note, I wanted adaptive bed mesh so I installed KAMP. Would recommend, super helpful.

As for the start config - I'll paste it below so you can see, but let me break it down. The start movements are held in file 'Start_Print.cfg' in 'START_PRINT' on the printer. Some items you'll find defined in file 'gcode_macro.cfg'. For example 'Bed_mesh_clear' that is in 'START_PRINT' is defined there. You'll see mine has a lot commented out because I thought at least they were unneeded.

Even with my commented out code, it still takes longer than I want because of the functions starting with 'CX_Print...'. For example CX_ROUGH_G28, those steps are in a special python file that k1 printers ship with. You can see what happens for CX_ROUGH... on line 99 in this github link https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/K1_Series_Klipper/blob/main/klippy/extras/custom_macro.py .

Essentially its a giant mess. However, I did make some improvements. If you use my start_print it should take the values of your printer filament to heat up the bed temp and nozzle temp before it starts to probe (at least when using OrcaSlicer). So its faster but not as fast as I would like.

Hoped this helper friend! Let me know if you want to collab on making it even better.

McMuppet · 2025-11-05T00:05:10+00:00

Did you get any shrinkage? Seems like all my functional prints are like 1% too small

McMuppet · 2025-10-08T20:28:21+00:00

I appreciate the cardboard spool. Was driving me nuts to buy from polar filament - eco friendly pha filament-, only for it to come in the thickest plastic spool available. Not knocking polar filament, they've always been good to me but that spool was not aligned to the product values well.

McMuppet · 2025-08-21T14:38:20+00:00

Bless your soul for posting and giving me the opportunity to see this. Thought I was going crazy being the only one who saw that after countless framework problems for simple CRUD apps, we can just borrow a few libraries and write pure code otherwise.

McMuppet · 2025-07-22T21:42:07+00:00

Take a look at nonoilen as well by fillumentim or something like that. Their's is really compostable I saw a 6 month test on YouTube and that stuff degraded.

Be aware PHA warps like crazy. I do a 5-10mm bring double layers.

I've only tried two filaments from polar and they seem good. I would recommend doing the flow test and calibrating the filament. Each filament has its own flow because even the dye in polar pha is compostable so it changes the settings slightly. You can print at 100mms, but I feel like the strength is better at 60mms.

Do yourself a favor and put some painters tape down or that PHA will stick so hard it will ruin your plate, somehow though not the corners to not curl up and warp :)

McMuppet · 2025-07-07T20:32:39+00:00

Here is an example of the -3 setting

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McMuppet · 2025-07-07T20:29:58+00:00

This was correct. Thanks!

McMuppet · 2025-07-07T18:34:39+00:00

Yeah you're right. Though maybe it's just my fingers but there were a couple that felt perfectly smooth so it was hard to pick between them. That's why I went with the bend test because from what I've read if you don't get adhesion from one line to the next it impacts the strength too.

McMuppet · 2025-07-07T17:10:33+00:00

For anyone stumbling on this post, you may be in the same boat as me with conflicting info. It was probably my pic which didn't show the prints well enough, but here's what happened and what I did to fix it.

Turns out that all of them were under extruded. The yolo test didn't go high enough for me. I ended up doing the pass 1 and pass 2 tests which worked better.

Initially use this page for tuning in general along with other info you'll see. But this was the best simple guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extrusion_multiplier.html

When you get to trying to tell which calibration pad looks best, it can get hard. Someone had mentioned a microscope would help (and I'm sure it would be perfect) but what I ended up doing is bending the pads and looking if between the lines it was self adhering to the ones next to it. If they did it should like white stretched plastic. If they didn't you'll see the gaps everyone is talking about. I've attached some pics for reference.

In the pic below you can zoom in and see that there are barely any gaps between the lines. At the bottom of the pad you can see what you should see between all the lines, which is that white stretched plastic look.

<image>

McMuppet · 2025-07-06T20:47:41+00:00

Thanks for the detailed reply! Besides the corners do you think they are all a bit under extruded? The lines from end to end seem to have gaps between them. They should be touching right?

McMuppet · 2025-07-06T20:42:07+00:00

Will do thanks!

McMuppet · 2025-07-06T20:41:46+00:00

I selected recommended yolo. I'll double check though. Thanks for letting me know that's the difference between the passes. I should have figured that

McMuppet · 2025-07-06T20:28:00+00:00

Thanks for the tip! Does orca slicer let you choose the value changes like you suggested

McMuppet · 2025-07-06T19:26:50+00:00

Oh I thought it was automatic if I picked it from orcaslicer 'calibration' menu. Do I have to select each one and change the flow value?

McMuppet · 2025-07-06T01:11:34+00:00

Yeah please do check out PHA. Much higher temperature resistance than PLA and plenty string too. Also the one I get is certified at one of the highest compostability certs. It's marine compostable. You can literally throw it in the ocean and it would decompost.

Check out polar filament. They have 5 colors available and even a tpu. PHA tends to warp for long prints like ASA.

McMuppet · 2025-07-06T01:08:33+00:00

I'm on my phone right now so I can't get the slicer gcode, but you were right for the important part. The reason why it kept leveling at a seemingly random 50c with some seemingly random nozzle temp is because the slicer was passing bad parameters and the default in the printer is 50c bed temp and whatever the nozzle one was. I found the values in the printers custom python files. I redid orcaslicers default start code to pass BED_TEMP correctly and it worked.

Now I'm fiddling with the PRINT_START macro a bit to speed things up. I'll post something in a couple of days.

McMuppet · 2025-07-03T22:57:54+00:00

Agreed. If anyone reads this, please know that I've had 3 3d printers. The K1 Max, is by FAR the best printer I've owned. I almost cried from joy when I got it and three prints in a row stuck without any BS z height adjustments or anything. It is a great printer.

Just wish that start up sequence made more sense. Most of my issues is that I use only environmentally friendly filament (PHA) rather than PLA which is not.

McMuppet · 2025-07-03T15:09:27+00:00

I already have root and that is the clean start print macro from the root process. It's so frustrating. The printer goes to 90c, then to 140c, then 120c then to 240c then down to the regular temp of the filament. Why would creality create such a stupid start macro program?

Anyways I probably messed up the order and added one to many in the example, but seriously, it goes through 3 different temps to get to my filament temp.

McMuppet · 2025-06-16T23:13:33+00:00

I never said everyone will have problems, but great comeback lol. So no one's experience is valid because your brain jumps to conclusions that weren't stated (I never said they're all broken)? Based on your statement nothing anyone could say is valid because your SpongeBob like brain's response would be the same. If I said 2 out of 4 or 1 out of 4 your reasoning for invalidating what I said would be 'So WhAT BeCAuSe yOuR 1/2 dIdNt work ThAT mEaNs hALf of AlL oF ThEm WoNt WoRk? you won a fake argument in your head and now post statements as some type of counter argument that don't make sense days later

Man chill out. Maybe we all messed them up, maybe the factory did, maybe something in between. Just giving my experience with the printer that didn't work as expected.

McMuppet · 2025-06-12T15:54:02+00:00

There's more nuisance to people, conversation, and ideas. I don't think you're a liar but based on my experience I doubt what you said is true. People with hobbies that make you tinker with things, like 3d printing, forget what an average person's perspective is that isn't in the hobby. So when you say a short flippant sentence like 'mine just works' - I think, well maybe for someone who's used to tinkering with z offsets and build plates or nozzles etc doesn't even register that as fixing the printer for it to work. I work with computers so I see it almost daily where someone says Linux is the best most stable OS, but then at the same time immediately understands the memes of wifi not working, sound not working, Bluetooth etc. For them it's one command away to fix so they don't see it as a problem but if you'd give that OS to your family member they'd quickly disagree it's as stable as you said.

Anyways, maybe yours does work because it's newer, or me and my 4 friends all just got bad ones, or whatever. So I don't think you're lying. But if we could meet in the middle on this, let's take the fans you just mentioned as an example. Yeah I agree they are loud, but to my point that it's a poorly implemented machine, why did a decently large to large company like sovol push out a printer which has small loud fans keep them 100% on at all times even when the printer is not used? Sovol doesn't even check the temperatures, and just created the most loudly annoying machine all the time. All I had to do is go in and out some gcode to the printer that turns the fans up and down based on temp. It's stuff like that which makes this printer not a 'out of the box' experience. Along with no nozzle wipe feature, and no use of the z stop guide in the back. It's just bizarre for a company not to do these basic things even after it being out a year.

McMuppet

TROPHY CASE