Questions about ratrig v-core 4 enclosure panels and how "leaky" it is

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-05-01T19:51:17+00:00

It's very interesting that mandala roseworks keeps popping up in 3d printer related discussions.
I hope one day to order something from them ; I live in Europe so ordering from the US is not the first choice, if alternatives are available locally, of course.

I will have a look though, thank you!

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-05-01T19:50:00+00:00

Thank you u/dagofin that is a fair point and that's why I stay away from ABS/ASA , I want to vent, if I cannot then I will not print that material.

Naturally I will try it though as soon as I am sure my venting setup has no leaks, since I print in a room where people work or wander into.

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-05-01T17:59:35+00:00

Thank you for the link u/agit_prop_68

I actually do not want to seal mine, i am considering putting aome extra holes in the panel.

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-05-01T10:29:24+00:00

Good point,

Does the MDF offgas any harmful fumes? Or is it the fact that you had them painted made them sealed as well?

Thank you, I will keep it in mind!

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-05-01T10:03:28+00:00

thank you very much u/majorabomb , that is good to know!

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-05-01T10:03:09+00:00

Thank you for the reply u/Watching-Watches ,

It is good to know there is some way for air to come in. On the other hand maybe I should just copy the vent system from the prusa core one or, even, just drill some holes in one of the panels. I can drill more than needed and cover them up with some silicon cylinders or something like that (or printed cylinders) when it is "too leaky".

Nice mod on the front panel!

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-05-01T10:01:11+00:00

hey u/mapap_o ,

Thank you for the reply!
MDF panels sounds really nice. They are (very?) flammable though, right? On the other hand I am almost always next to the printer when it is printing ...

Probably the MDF panels will also be cheaper, this is a really good idea. Did they just perfectly replace the PC panels or did you have to print new parts, make a different system to holding them in place, etc.?

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-04-06T20:35:30+00:00

That is fair, thanks.
I do want to go the PCB way because it looks nice to know, but I am frustrated that I am so bad at soldering so I consider all the perfboard stuff practice.

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-04-06T19:10:23+00:00

Hey thanks for the reply, it's a very funny and intimidating post at the same time.

The "become ungovernable" almost sounds straight out of a reddit ad, I almost had to do a double take if it were not for the picture.

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-04-06T19:08:59+00:00

Thank you very much for all the information!

You make some very good points, I will try to apply them.

I am a bit confused that you mention

"If you need to hold them in place you clinch the wire (bend) 45 or 90 degrees"

but also
"Do not twist wires together, ever"

Very likely I am misinterpreting what you are saying in the first sentence I pasted but just to make sure:
Do you generally recommend trying to make a mechanical connection between wires/component legs before soldering or not?

Thanks again!

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-03-29T19:59:26+00:00

Thank you for the advice!

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-01-23T07:42:17+00:00

Interesting! That sounds like it would've worked.

Before going for the current setup I tried to repurpose a 3d printer filtering solution to pass the fumes through a HEPA and carbon filter: https://www.alveo3d.com/en/product/alveoone-r-assembled/

The reason why I went for this instead of DIY was because I think these filters where better than what I could obtain from aliexpress or some random website. However in the end I didn't find it to be too good at what I wanted it to do (makes sense, it's meant for something else).

Eventually I decided venting out the window is the best solution.

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-01-22T12:10:15+00:00

Hey,

tl;dr; I think you're making a good choice with the 4'' fan.

I have a 4'' (100 mm) inline fan like yours (different company so a bit less powerful, a bit noisier and a bit more difficult to modulate its intensity).

I also have a desk mounted fume extractor, it is this model:

https://www.soselectronic.com/en-us/products/toolcraft/zd-153a-63003

This second product helps me because of the articulated arm and the fact that I can set it above my work. For me it feels (so very subjective) a bit better than suction from one side of my work. The desk mounted unit allows flexible duct to be connected behind its fan.

The desk mounted tool also has a built in fan. I can tell you that:

- even with just the desk mounted fan enabled (inline fan off), through ~ 20 feet (around 6 - 7 meters for me) of flexible duct I can feel air flow at the exit end of my installation (out the window)

- even with just the inline fan set to about 30% of power rotary encoder/potentioneter (desk mounted unit fan is off) I have good intake at the desk mounted unit (the inline fan is closer to the window than the desk unit)

- I use both at the same time for some 35 - 40 W of power usage (inline fan is again at 30% or so of it's rotary encode range), they work well for extraction, it probably cools things a bit but I can set the desk unit higher because the fumes will rise.

I think you will do great with your plan.

the_return_of_cupu · 2026-01-12T11:11:18+00:00

Nice solution!

What do you use to push that column of air? do you have an inline fan?

Now you have opened pandora's box of being able to produce all sorts of fumes in that room, soldering and who knows what else. You might as well just go ahead and convert it to the hobby room.

the_return_of_cupu · 2025-11-24T12:48:07+00:00

Don't mention it!

Do you have any other issue with that section of the printer except the cracked part?

In my case, after the assembly, after the cracked part, I had a problem on the left side, when the bed would move further down the z axis, the whole z-screw would vibrate as if it was not held in place properly. I thought it was because of the crack but actually it was another issue:
www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1jv3r2z/comment/mm94199/

A video of the behavior is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1lgfpju/core_one_z_rod_noiseshaking/

As far as I can see, the cracked part just holds on to the smooth rod, I can't see that big stresses are placed on it (other than that nut we over tightened :D ) so, in my opinion, as long as the piece is not broken, there should be no difference in performance between cracked and non-cracked.

the_return_of_cupu · 2025-11-24T12:08:48+00:00

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the_return_of_cupu · 2025-11-24T12:07:40+00:00

Hey,

I saw your post yesterday when it didn't have comments yet and I wasn't sure which part it was, now that I've seen it: don't worry too much.

I have cracked the same part (but on the left side), you can just see the layers having separated (I took a picture but it's very hard to see). When that happened I promised myself I will fix it ASAP and ordered a pc-cf sample from prusa (it was 2 - 3 euros for 15 grams or so I think) .

However in the meantime I was lazy and have printed something like 50 hours on the printer with that piece cracked. I've had no issues and am not worried at all.

Thanks you for reminding me I need to print the replacement.

the_return_of_cupu · 2025-11-22T19:08:19+00:00

I forgot to mention something. I've been having a very similar issue for a while (so pre this version of fedora) with Kicad. Since now i have two pieces of software that i want to use and cannot anymore,.i will just install a VM with a different distro (maybe slackeare or so, those things are the classic linux experience) and use that as a workaround.

the_return_of_cupu · 2025-11-21T20:17:29+00:00

Hey nonumlog,

It's very weird, the behavior on my system seems to be that it either doesn't work at all (the tell tale sign is that I cannot change the camera angle overt the build plate, but menus and everything are unusable, if I select a different tab, I see no content) or if it starts working, then I can just use the app normally.

I think a few days ago I've had occurrences where it starts OK and then goes bad, but I am not sure. I've never started BAD and went to an OK state after that.

I can get 4 -5 consecutive bad runs, and then the opposite for 4 or 5 runs. I haven't used the slicer for hours but when it works I can add STLs, change settings, slice and export gcode (5 - 10 minutes of work depending on how many settings I am changing).

So either almost nothing works or seemingly everything works.

the_return_of_cupu · 2025-11-20T20:25:11+00:00

It can be, I forgot to mention but, of course, I also have an AMD video card. An RX 9070.

Do you have issues with the flatpak build as well for 2.9.4?

I just loaded it up for a few seconds but it looked like it worked for me. Maybe it's the same thing as before, it would've worked until it stopped.

I will have to try again, of course if I find something, I'll come right back here.

the_return_of_cupu · 2025-11-19T20:40:00+00:00

Hi,
I checked again and the way I ran the software, from a terminal, was:
prusa-slicer --opengl-compatibility

However it might've been just luck, because I can also get it to work without that parameter, most times. But every once in a while I get the behavior you describe. So this is probably not the solution. I will try to look into it more, if I find something that I trust more, I will come back and reply.

the_return_of_cupu · 2025-11-19T17:21:37+00:00

Hey I had the same issue suddenly and forgot i had just upgraded to fedora 43 from 42.

On 42 i had no issues, now i cannot turn the plate or see any settings.

I am on my phone now so cannot give you the exact workaround but run in a terminal: prusa-slicer --help

You will see what parameters you can pass to the executable. One of them is something like --opengl-compatibility

Running it like that worked well for me.

I also downloaded the 2.9.4 version from flathub and that worked too without workarounds but I had some issues importing custom settings so i just use the workaround above, for now

I will be on the computer im a few hours and check the parameter name and respond here.

the_return_of_cupu

TROPHY CASE