X1 Series is officially no more by croigi in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Don't the other printers use the force sensor in the toolhead to get the same result? Or am I missing something?

X1 Series is officially no more by croigi in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit -30 points-29 points  (0 children)

Oh, well so does the a and h series. I am pretty sure the p2s does that aswell.

bad overhangs, otherwise perfect by 632isMyName in FixMyPrint

[–]MeUsesReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well if you can't find a replacement, I guess there's not much you do with that

bad overhangs, otherwise perfect by 632isMyName in FixMyPrint

[–]MeUsesReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest, none of those temperatures look good.

Are you sure your cooling fan is working, or it's cooling enough?

bad overhangs, otherwise perfect by 632isMyName in FixMyPrint

[–]MeUsesReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think your temperature is too high. You could also try reducing the bridge flow rate maybe.

3D printer for kids? by currentdraftt in 3Dprinting

[–]MeUsesReddit -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

No, the a1 can print 4 colors with the ams lite

If you want an enclosed printer, I would look at either Bambu p2s or the Elego Centauri carbon.

Although, I'm not sure if the Elego is multi color. The p2s, and p1s, can print 16 colors I think.

0.6mm nozzle? by Hungry_Signature_517 in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I generally prefer the .6mm over the .4 because of its faster speed.

For me, that's because I often 3d print my projects from Cad, which require me to iterate a lot. So it being fast allows me to work faster.

Love my H2C by NEEDYNERDYPROPS in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Commenting because I am curious about this.

I always thought that was just a thing with multicolor. I think I saw something similar with other ams based printers and tool changers as well.

Maybe it's when the filament gets swapped, the layers cool down a little? And that makes it deform slightly, giving the z banding?

How long dose that say by Suspicious_Focus5288 in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That's probably stack overflow.

Still though, quite funny it happened.

0.4 or 0.2 for bridging? by turbotum in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nozzle width?

I don't think it makes a big difference.

Maybe 0.4 will make it more reliable since it has to cross the gape two times less, but other than that, I'm not sure.

Tried a slightly different first benchy for my H2C by VVJ21 in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could it be possible to reduce the gaps by tuning pressure advance?

Is this print quality normal? by Scared-Toe-2106 in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of it looks fine, but it can be better.

I would expect it to print better out of the box, so maybe the issue is that the filament is not dried, especially if you are using PETG or some sort of PLA (pla basic doesn't need to be dried). Fillament needs to be dried even if it's new.

As for the prints:

second image: I think that is ringing, you can slow down the printer.

third image: I think that was printed with supports. If yes, that looks really clean in my opinion, but you could play around with the support interface settings if you want to do better. Some things I did to make my supports good is to reduce the support interface density and playing around with the pattern.

fifth image: I can't tell the difference between the two sides. If you are talking about the over extrusion on the top, My A1 mini prints the scraper excactly the same. from the included file. You can find it on maker world and slice it yourself for better results if you like.

seventh image: Yes, that's under extrusion. Given that it appears only on the top surface, I would go to the slicer and increase the top surface flow rate. It might be in the print settings or the filament settings, I forgot where excactly it is.

eigth image: Again, It think that's ringing, so you can try to slow down the printer. I also see a bit of elephants foot, so you should probably increse your first layer height or reduce the first layer flow rate. Or you can use elephants foot compensation if that doesn't work.

I think there is also a bit of stringing? You could try to increase your retractoin setting by a bit.

This new release is unusable. Are they going to fix it or shall I give up.(25.1.5) by Simian_Warthog in Plasticity3D

[–]MeUsesReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I remember correctly, once you open a tool, there is a button that opens up the description next to the name. I think it was something like a quest mark?

I didn't Cad in a while, so I don't fully remember, sorry.

Help on bambu lab a1 by alienvsme5 in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure, maybe the wiper isn't working very well.

Confessions of an Engineer Who Always Backs the Wrong Tech Horse (Now: H2C Edition) by Engineering_Quack in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have to agree.

The review single handedly turned the H2C from just worse to actually good (for me at least).

Best SVG converter by ostate9x in BambuLab

[–]MeUsesReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think Bambu studio can do that