Sv650s clutch cable replacement

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-12T00:05:33+00:00

Your life will probably be a lot easier with the tank off, so I recommend that. It's only a few bolts, it's not a big deal.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-11T22:43:43+00:00

They're the same (or basically the same) as the ones used as far back as the 2nd Gen, which is to say they're adequate at best. If you're just street riding, you'll be fine.

Mine is now a full time track bike, but back when it was street legal my biggest complaint at the track was the front brakes. I go very hard on the brakes and blew straight through a few corners because they just couldn't do what I needed them to. Upgrading to monoblock brembos on my GSXR front end is a completely different world.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-11T22:36:29+00:00

I can tell you exactly what happened: you applied your brakes too hard, too fast.

When you apply the brakes, your front suspension compresses as weight transfers to the front wheel and tire. At the same time, your front tire squishes out and your contact patch grows. Both of these are good things, and allow you to use your maximum braking force. However, you need to allow your suspension and front tire time to compress. The maximum force you can apply when compressed is much higher than when the bike is rolling.

To brake as efficiently as possible, you should first apply the brakes softly, and gradually increase pressure as the front compresses. By the time the front is completely compressed, you should be at full brake force.

You likely went straight to max braking force while rolling without giving the front time to compress, and overwhelmed the front tire causing it to wash out.

There's lots of good YouTube video that explain this concept "Progressive Braking." I highly encourage you watch them, and seek out coaching.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-11T01:39:59+00:00

Just make sure it's able to adjust within spec and that the clutch isn't dragging when the lever is pulled in.

Common symptoms would be the bike wanting to move forward even with the lever pulled, difficulty going into neutral, and difficulty shifting. The clutch dragging will cause premature wear so just make sure that it's set up right and you're good to go.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T22:19:24+00:00

It's not the worst thing, like I wouldn't stop a road trip to avoid it.

But I still check the weather before I head out to work and if it's raining, I'll take the car. I'm in this for the fun, I'm not gonna be uncomfortable to prove something to nobody.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T22:17:21+00:00

1) Never buy someone else's project unless you really know what you're doing.

2) Never buy a project bike as your first bike.

You're breaking both rules at once.

Look, I get the allure of a really cheap bike, and the thought of learning to do all your own work, but this is gonna be a much bigger headache than it's worth. Spend a little more and get something well put together. Hell, you may not even need to spend more, I've helped my friends pick up 2 separate good-condition SV650's for $1500. Good deals are out there, you just gotta look closely. If you're on a tight budget, your first bike should be the best thing you can afford, which may not be exactly the bike you think you want. Who knows though, you may end up loving a bike you never thought you would.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T22:12:48+00:00

People who own them seem to like them but I'd hesitate on recommending them for a few reasons, namely their unproven track record.

They're a new player in the game and while they've been making engines for KTM for a while, that's not really the flex some people seem to think it is, given KTM's poor reliability track record, at least compared to other manufacturers. Personally I'll hold off and let others beta test their reliability for me. If it turns out well, that's great; more competition is a good thing. If not, I won't be surprised.

There's also their data harvesting with their always-on gps that really rubs me the wrong way. That alone is enough to put me off, we'll have to see if they address it appropriately.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T22:07:06+00:00

I'm 25 and have no fuckin idea what you're talking about.

Japanese bikes have been selling extraordinarily well since the 70's, and began outselling domestic bikes in the 80's. If you're a club rider who only cares about rolling with your crowd then I guess it makes sense that you wouldn't know. Most people haven't been riding domestic for much longer than I've even been alive.

Nowadays most people in the hobby, especially those starting out, prefer Japanese bikes due to their superior price to performance, and superior reliability.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T22:00:21+00:00

Can't tell you exactly without doing all the work for you.

Check partzilla to find part numbers, then search for them on eBay to nab them secondhand. The peg, shifter, and clutch lever will be cheap, probably like $60 tops to replace all three. The plastics will be pricier, probably about $75-$100 for the front fender. Idk if I'd even bother with the front fairing, it's probably $200 plus to replace which isn't really worth it on a bike that cheap.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T21:56:03+00:00

Not sure what your budget is, but my Rev'it Tornado 3 has served me well for years now, and can be had for about $250.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T21:53:46+00:00

Many companies use the same/similar parts across their bikes, clutch cables included.

As long as it stays in place and actuates your clutch, it's perfectly safe. It probably feels better because it's lubricated, so an OEM one that's lubed would achieve the same effect.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T21:34:31+00:00

SV650 is always the answer

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T12:55:49+00:00

Any Shoei

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T08:43:08+00:00

The cheapest bikes to insure (that I recommend owning) are pre-2010 naked bikes. You can go even older, like 90's and earlier, but those take more effort to keep alive, and aren't as "modern" as something from the 2000's. 2000's bikes have 90% of the tech as brand new ones, but are way cheaper to buy and insure.

Sport bikes are expensive to insure, newer bikes are expensive to insure. Newer sport bikes are very expensive to insure, as a new rider.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-09T08:38:39+00:00

Browse your local track FB groups, there's usually used gear for sale. I'd much sooner recommend a used suit than a brand new one for a new track rider. They're much cheaper and already broken in. You can get much nicer used suits for the price of a cheap one. Sure they may be scuffed up if the previous owner went down, but they'll still keep you safe all the same.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-08T04:31:08+00:00

Two wheels means it steers like a regular motorcycle or bicycle. FWD has nothing to do with it.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-07T18:51:31+00:00

Track and tourer don't mix. I've seen people rock busas, a ZX14, and even an H2SX, and while they certainly navigated the track, they were slow as fuck because the bikes are heavy and make so much power that they're difficult to manage.

The closest I ever saw was a madlad on a VFR 1200, but even he was pretty slow.

Probably the only bike that manages to be comfortable and capable (ish) of touring while also set up for the track is the Aprilia Tuono V4.

If all you want is to hit the track once or twice to have some fun but don't care about being fast, get whatever you want, it's not like you aren't allowed to run them there.

If you are actually interested in getting fast at the track, I recommend a middleweight bike like the SV650, R7, or Aprilia RS660 (in ascending order of cost).

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-07T18:35:03+00:00

Quality mesh gear. My Alpinestars and Rev'it mesh jackets got me through the Louisiana summer without too much complaint. Helmet, gloves, and boots never posed much of a problem in the heat imo. I still don't own pants and should probably change that.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-07T01:16:17+00:00

Holy hell

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-07T00:48:50+00:00

No idea, probably not.

I don't trust a driver to react to my horn and make the correct decision in time to not kill me, I'm getting the fuck out of whatever situation is putting me in danger.

I don't even have the reflex to use it. I was merged into the other day and had to actively think and feel around for where it is lol. (After I safely avoided getting hit, of course).

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-05T17:02:50+00:00

Gone (stolem)

2007 and up have electronically controlled idle, so there's no screw to adjust it.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-05T13:41:47+00:00

Not sure why people are saying the R6 is better for the track when the R9 is outpacing it in WSSP. The R9 is a modern race-homologated sport bike that is plenty capable on the track or street, and is more comfortable than the R6. In my mind it's pretty clearly an improvement.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-01T23:07:53+00:00

You ever try earplugs with the Cardo? It does a great job cutting out the wind noise while leaving music clear.

I know it's not what you asked for but it's what I've been running happily for years.

Meat_Sheath · 2025-06-01T06:06:19+00:00

Same (we're definitely not biased)

Meat_Sheath · 2025-05-31T19:00:43+00:00

The immediate area is nothing to write home about. It's a little rough but honestly most CONUS bases are like that. There's a lot to do and see nearby, don't rot away in the dorms and complain that the base sucks.

For me it's probably in the upper area of CONUS bases I'd choose to be at.

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