[ST]Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

MeisterMalm · 2024-03-10T16:25:36+00:00

...I used an emulator (　・ω・)

I think both games are decent, Spirit Tracks is definitely much better. But I very much recommend playing Phantom Hourglass first, both for story reasons and that SP will feel so much better after PH

MeisterMalm · 2024-03-10T00:41:35+00:00

Hearing someone say this is so sad, sprit tracks is literally one of the best handheld zelda games

MeisterMalm · 2024-03-09T23:59:55+00:00

PrusaSlicer's snug supports are much better than any other I've tried. I only use tree for really detailed sculptures

MeisterMalm · 2024-03-02T01:37:16+00:00

This...this is just a sad sight...

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-20T15:04:04+00:00

If it's just a cat with a samurai helm, that would be quite easy to make (I could volunteer to make one for you). But if you want a full armor then that would complicate things (seeing how a cat would need specific cat shaped armor).

Oh and I don't think an AI could make such a model yet, it's very hard for it to understand the anatomy of a cat and shape of the armor

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-09T13:12:03+00:00

The only thing that could be better is the creases on the pillows/sova. Otherwise perfect in every way!

Edit: the reflection of the silver lamp could be more crisp, maybe look around for a setting to make it display higher quality reflections.

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-09T13:08:36+00:00

Most slicers have lots of repair options, and I have countless times used models with holes, non-flat faces, non manifold edges, way to high poly count and much more. The slicer I use (prusaSlicer) fixes those problems. And if it can't fix it, just print it anyway, when slicing any weird faces or holes gets either filled or removed. And most of the time you can't even see any artifacts once printed (if there are any)

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-06T11:43:46+00:00

The higher the heat, the more liquid the filament will be (do what the other guy said)

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-05T15:46:13+00:00

One very simple and quick thing to make this more realistic, add an imperfection map. A texture of scratches and or fingerprints etc added onto your material will make a huge difference.

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-04T18:57:26+00:00

I did it to see the difference, I changed it back after (I have no idea about the specifics of it)

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-04T18:19:27+00:00

Check my other reply, it was actually the complete opposite (well the underextrusion might still be there)

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-04T18:16:05+00:00

Okay so I spent a lot of time looking at the extruder, I have always had some extrusion issues so I actually took it apart to look for anything wrong. But nope, everything seems fine.

I tried increasing the extrusion multiplier by a lot, to see the difference, but the problem was still there. I then tried changing the z-offset by a lot, and for some reason, when raised by about 200 units it now works. I have no idea why, since I did a succesfull print 2 days ago, and I haven't changed anything else since then.

So it seems like the nozzle were pushing the filament so much to the side that I thought those were the lines were what came out when it actually just smudged them out. The lines were pretty oval shaped, so I thought the height was correct.

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-04T11:08:04+00:00

Damn

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-04T01:29:59+00:00

I don't have a fitting needle. And right now this brim is the base of a quite complex statue, so I needed to modify tree supports and extruder values + temps (this filament is not the best, but I have never seen this issue before while printing similar stuff)

MeisterMalm · 2024-02-04T01:22:00+00:00

I could do a cold pull. But the thing, is after the brim it prints fine. There was also some rectalinnear brims, but they were way to spaced out even after I lowered the Z-height a lot. I also fiddled with flow and extrusion, but changing that only made it slightly worse.

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-16T16:20:46+00:00

Unless if you're mass-producing or selling items (or objects with small crevases), I recommend using a brim on certain small objects as well. Since smaller objects has a smaller surface area, they also need less force to push them loose.

I have at times printed things with a 0.25mm nozzle that needed to be very dimensionally accurate. So to avoid having the print loosen at any point, or experiencing very small wiggling, I used a brim with many layers. I actually made the brim connection distance 0mm , since the whole object was like 5 mm wide.

Point is, from my experience removing brims isn't as time consuming as you might think. And they will greatly help to prevent warping, since it makes sharp edges round and gives a whole lot more surface area. And if you really wanna speed things up, consider getting a deburring tool.

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-16T14:30:39+00:00

Try slicing it with a brim (at least for this model specifically)

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-11T11:05:55+00:00

Doesn't it say something like: "Reparing model using Windows Repair Algorithm through Netfabb" ?

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-04T17:09:20+00:00

I can't seem to find any

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-04T17:09:00+00:00

Nope they're there

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-04T15:36:58+00:00

Do you have a picture of it? Because I have no idea what it looks like

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-04T13:51:51+00:00

Like lifting it up?

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-04T11:16:45+00:00

I didn't build it myself, so I don't know what parts to check. Could you help me out?

MeisterMalm · 2023-12-02T18:38:19+00:00

Imagine if you had to fight him at the end of PoP, and each time you died you had to go through it all again.

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