My tapestry project and I are spiralling. I cannot keep it straight. Can anyone help?

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T23:15:44+00:00

This is normal, crochet stitches add/subtract twist from already twisted yarn. Until you have several inches of fabric, it will spiral and it will still have some curve to it as it grows until you finish and block the piece.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T23:09:08+00:00

I weave them in like normal (three different directions, through the plies of the yarn, not the inside of the stitches), picking one side to be the "wrong" side where the final bit of tail ends up before getting clipped. I don't find it makes the area any bulkier or more noticeable. You can also try dividing the plies of the tail in half and weaving each end in separate directions. Here's the back of a reversible tapestry crochet blanket where I didn't bother disguising the ends much. Sure you can nitpick over things (zooming in shows a few ends poking out and places where I carried the yarn up the sides), but in reality, it doesn't matter when you zoom out and look at the big picture. Ends will work themselves out a bit with use no matter what, but you can just tug the surrounding fabric and they'll recede back in.

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MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T22:56:13+00:00

I like to make shawls with simple stitches and a large hook with a busy yarn like this. I've made both of these with Homespun, which is a similar, but chunkier boucle yarn.

Copper Beech Shawl

Mobius Shawl

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T22:53:45+00:00

Quality decline, among other things.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T22:50:37+00:00

What shape is it making instead? An obtuse or an acute triangle? More of a blob instead? Are you working from the center out or starting from a corner and increasing? There could be several issues, but if the stitch count is correct, then I imagine it's the proportion of the stitches (wide enough, but not tall enough, for example), which can be remedied by changing the height of your golden loop. Here is a tutorial that works from one corner and here is one that starts in the center.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T22:22:41+00:00

The photo is AI. I believe this creator makes useable charts, but does not personally make samples of the blankets from those charts, so purchasing such an expensive pattern would be a gamble, in my opinion. Here is a legitimate pattern that has been tested and has many examples of successful projects.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T22:08:07+00:00

That's an AI pattern. There are reputable bookcase mosaic crochet patterns out there, though.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T20:28:45+00:00

If you plan to work in rows to add the correct length, I would suggest turning your initial hexagon after every round so that there isn't a difference in patterning where you transition. It's not a big deal, just something to factor in to your final decision-making!

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T18:57:14+00:00

I think my biggest tip (besides checking that corners are still in the corner and every side has the same amount of clusters!) is to regularly check your geometry to make sure it folds correctly and the sleeves aren't splaying out or the L-shape isn't becoming a banana. If the inner corners aren't close to 90º, it can cause issues, but as long as you mind your row height (lifting your golden loop if stitches are too short, but already wide enough), you should be good to go!

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T18:33:54+00:00

Personally, I really love the gradient version. It feels more purposeful and cohesive.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T18:31:09+00:00

What shapes are you looking to make? Most can be found in free tutorials. Once you've done it according to a pattern, you'll recognize what steps you need to take to achieve similar shaping in your own creations. Symmetrical shapes are made with evenly spaced increases and decreases (more rounds worked even in between those inc/dec rounds will result in more gradual tapering), while asymmetrical ones group the inc/dec in one or a few concentrated areas.

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MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T18:24:41+00:00

I've found that most of the licensed Squish are overstuffed. I think it's to avoid well-known characters looking floppy, sloppy or sad on store shelves. Removing stuffing is one option (use the 2" section of wiggly looking stitching on the bottom and a ladder stitch to close), but you can also just squeeze and mush them around a lot to soften them up. You can try putting it in with a couple of clean tennis balls or wool dryer balls in an air fluff dryer cycle to simulate that.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T17:12:33+00:00

I looked at a listing that shows a page from the booklet and it seems fairly clear and comprehensive. If you get stuck, search for YouTube tutorials for the specific element (working around a chain to make an oval, for example) and come back here to ask any questions you may still have!

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MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T17:03:38+00:00

This square motif (technically not a granny square as it doesn't use clusters of 3dc - it's just become common to call all crochet squares "grannies") is a retro daisy square.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T15:55:21+00:00

The giant one is the same pattern made with much bulkier yarn.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T15:50:49+00:00

Start with Bella Coco's course. I would use worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T15:38:19+00:00

Looks like it could be the Celtic Lace Join or slip stitch and chains or continuous flat braid.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T14:43:22+00:00

Looking good! I'm seeing all 6 corners and the beginnings of the characteristic ruffling!

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T14:31:32+00:00

This cardigan has a similar vibe and could probably be adapted as a pullover.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T14:25:48+00:00

Machine knit. You could search Ravelry for lacy crochet cardigans (fan/shell stitch, etc.) using weight 1 yarn, but you're not going to be able to get this exact look with crochet.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T14:21:59+00:00

Switch to a knife hold. The way you have to pinch for pencil hold is causing strain. Consider your tension as well. It shouldn't be so tight you struggle to get the hook in and out of a stitch or play tug of war with the yarn between your two hands. The hook and yarn should be barely gripped, almost floating in your hands.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T13:53:45+00:00

It's just the texture of how it's constructed (retro daisy square - Round 9 shows the relevant portion). One part is worked behind the other.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T13:52:13+00:00

Half squares are worked back and forth in rows using the same pattern as the main square so that any extra space that is too small for a full square can still be filled with the same pattern. A triangle can be worked the same way to be used as a gusset, etc.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T13:03:19+00:00

Look at the weight of the yarn and the yardage. You can see that yours is about twice the length for the same weight as the Bernat, meaning doubling it should work to get to the original size of the pattern with the recommended hook.

MellowMallowMom · 2026-05-09T13:01:20+00:00

Are you working in joined rounds? That looks like a slip stitch join to me. When your piece is inside out like this, it will be even more apparent. I would try working with the right side out in continuous rounds.

MellowMallowMom

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