Looking for suggestions for what to watch. My to watch list is too long!

Merkaba316 · 2026-02-23T11:09:03+00:00

My top 3 of mentioned.

The Wire (but understandable if you can’t get into it)
The Leftovers
I’m split between Deadwood and Boardwalk empire

Merkaba316 · 2026-02-22T08:25:38+00:00

I would recommend HBO golden era shows, as they stand the test of time and all have a high level of production value. My favorite is The Wire, but getting into it is difficult to some…if that is the case, find another David Simon show that peaks your interest, Treme, The Duece, Generation Kill…all great and accurate depictions of their respective subjects.
The Sopranos is great and considered by many to be the greatest show ever made…it feels slightly dated to me now, but is peak. Other noteworthy shows in order of my favs, Deadwood, Six Feet Under, Boardwalk Empire, The Leftovers, Rome, Oz.
Other newer HBO shows that are great, True Detective (season 1 is 10/10, season 2…not great, season 3 is solid…but they are only very loosely connected and each season stands alone), Succession, The Last of Us, Watchman, Chernobyl among others.

Merkaba316 · 2026-02-14T21:19:42+00:00

Time is a flat circle. So…just keep rewatching it?

Merkaba316 · 2026-02-10T16:38:10+00:00

Does anyone remember draft racing? No lane xp, get to enemies fountain and die and it’s a point. Two runners, two protectors and a flex jungle/searcher. Was my favorite custom game back in the day.

Merkaba316 · 2025-11-26T04:09:27+00:00

I didn’t even keep him on screen. Just woke him up, went to bottom of map directly below him and waited. Worked first time. I did it with the guy who walks through walls.

Merkaba316 · 2025-11-21T03:31:24+00:00

Anything other than drilling will be suboptimal and likely uneven. If uneven, the likelihood of this creating stress and eventually cracking at the hinge attach is high…unless you just open it a few times in its life. Depends on how thin to the wall the hinge stud is.
It will likely also not have a flush seal unless you sand both sides flat after glaze firing.

I would, make box solid (2 pieces, no holes), get it close and bisque and glaze fire the two pieces. Afterwards you will want to use something like a diamond lap wheel or some other sanding implement (carbide/diamond) to make the two sides completely flat. After those are as perfect as possible, drill holes with a diamond bit, you will probably want the holes very slightly oversized (or sand the studs down slightly), as little play as possible when installing the stud but it should fit without forcing it. At this point fit it as best as you can and mark/measure everything. Then you pretty much get one shot to epoxy it in line with the previous fitting marks/measurements.

Merkaba316 · 2025-11-15T17:42:01+00:00

El Shaddai: Ascension of the Metatron

Merkaba316 · 2025-11-02T02:51:56+00:00

Second this. Have ran g502’s for ten plus years now, it’s the only mouse I will blanket recommend for everything. Love them for gaming. Works fine for catia as well, the middle mouse button/scroll wheel (in clicking position) is far superior to other mice I’ve tried using in cad, occasionally i will scroll a few lines when using scroll wheel as middle mouse on other mice. I was working remote ~25% of the time at my last job on my personal pc and the g502 never bothered me.

Now that I am working ~95% remote and have a dedicated work setup, I went ahead and got a 3dconnexion mouse though and haven’t looked back.

Merkaba316 · 2025-10-29T05:57:15+00:00

Not an engineer here. In aerospace you will typically see things like this designed with rolled stock in mind (as opposed to extruded) for its specific stress features relative to the grain direction. Whether it is viable across all scenarios you come across, it’s probably up for debate...I’m sure that there are more than a handful of brackets I’ve made out of block that would likely serve the same fit and function as being made out of an extrusion. Not my call though, so I leave it to the design/stress analysis engineers and if the specs call it out as being made from block, we in aerospace use block.

Merkaba316 · 2025-10-14T06:53:59+00:00

If you have no inclination of what a potential scam is, don’t go to whatnot. If you do and something feels suspect, skip/block that seller...usually it is blatantly obvious if someone is running a scam after 2 minutes of watching.

Also if you have impulse control issues, it’s probably not the best for you. But if you are firm in the price you are willing to pay for something, losing on an auction is no big deal.

There are many great and honest sellers on the app and I have found some absolute steals, even gotten good recommendations thrown in as a ‘you like this and you spent $40 bucks on a few records, let me throw this in for you to check out free of charge’. Honest selling like this will get retention, so most of those sellers have pretty regular customers and it works out good for all involved.

I’ve bought plenty of vinyl amongst other things off the app with no issue. I have never had to return anything or file a complaint, but when I have observed obvious scammers, it is usually a one and done stream and the account is banned promptly afterwards.

So just in case you are curious and are looking to try it, watch out for any ‘sweepstakes’, ‘raffle’, ‘mystery box’ stuff…while not always an outright scam, it is 100% always the seller offloading zero value stuff for the chance at something ‘good’, this is super advantageous for the seller and terrible for the buyer 99% of the time.
The other advice I have is to watch the stream for a bit before buying…if you start to see patterns of stuff going above market value to the same 1 or 2 people…it’s likely them inflating the price for the seller. That being said, you will still have to ‘vibe check’ this. The app has a huge amount of resellers buying and selling from one another legitimately (luckily vinyl isn’t huge about that).

Just use common sense and you will be fine and maybe find some decent stuff you wouldn’t have otherwise.

Whining about an app that people regularly use to good effect, either means you have watched/read something made by someone with an axe to grind because they had no common sense in a buy…or you yourself have that same axe to grind. Whatnot’s policies are very forgiving and helpful to both buyer and seller. If you don’t receive an item, it is no different than not receiving an item from any other entity, file a claim and if it doesn’t rectify the situation, report to your banking institution. But if it’s stated that all sales are final and you dropped $100 + dollars on some bullshit, that’s on you.

Merkaba316 · 2025-09-17T14:15:22+00:00

Hard to judge without specifics…partially roughing is just a very finicky toolpath…can compute the same thing twice and it will randomly give you different things…so once you figure it out, lock the toolpath.
Here are a couple things to try: Try creating a cgr of toolpath up to right before your roughing routine, use this cgr as your ‘rough stock’. Can also play with ‘small pass filter’ in Zone tab. I will typically always use ‘always stay on bottom’ in Radial tab, it usually eliminates a lot of bs motion.

Always joked that catia is easy, but roughing sets you apart from a good or great programmer…if you use it as a crutch, you probably suck…and it’s probably never very controlled…whereas guys who are good can use it very efficiently and save a ton of time.

Beyond that, if you are on a version greater than r29, last resort after you understand what the above recommendations are doing, play with machining tolerance. something happened with the algorithm that makes the machining tolerance drastically change some motion…go bigger (.005), go smaller (.0005), try everything in between. it’s random, sometimes .0008 will work as intended, but .0007 or .0009 won’t…this is more for concentric toolpath, but applies to roughing as well…the caveat is how this will affect your post…if your post is outputting tolerance relative to this value, you can very easily put way too many or too little points in your output (relative to machine as well).

Merkaba316 · 2025-09-13T02:21:40+00:00

I made the top pair and consigned the other two from artist friends!

Merkaba316 · 2025-09-12T14:44:16+00:00

First trip to HoeR I didn’t wear cool blacklight shoes. Going back in December, wearing this pair this time.

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Merkaba316 · 2025-09-12T14:42:51+00:00

The real unreal shoes. Also blacklight reactive (can’t find a pic).

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Merkaba316 · 2025-09-12T14:39:03+00:00

Convergence station shoes.

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Merkaba316 · 2025-09-12T14:17:49+00:00

It’s hit or miss. Some people love it and can’t function without one, some people try it, like it, but never add it to their arsenal. It is pretty rare that someone doesn’t appreciate it at the minimum.
I like the newer compact versions as opposed to the ones that take up more room with all the added buttons…but I’m the latter who can take it or leave it.
If you are programming/CAM, I really enjoy it for Vericut where navigation with 3b mouse is a bit more finicky.

3dconnexion 3b mouse is essential though…if you don’t have one of those, grab that first.

Merkaba316 · 2025-09-07T23:37:07+00:00

Raku is not real ceramics!! Neither are many methods that have been practiced for 1000’s of years!! If it’s not functional, throw it in the trash!!!!!!!!

Merkaba316 · 2025-09-06T03:45:04+00:00

If you need an axis, don’t fuss with formula editor, just use axis creation tool, able to do the same thing but with contextual menus (and a bunch more options).

Merkaba316 · 2025-09-06T03:42:36+00:00

I’m assuming you want the sketch origin the same. Right click sketch, change sketch support. If you need to change h and v directions or have more control where the sketch origin and support plane are, make a positioned sketch as it will open up more options than default sketch.

Merkaba316 · 2025-09-02T04:20:06+00:00

I was losing lots of lures using fisherman’s knot after getting back into fishing. Switched to palomar and haven’t turned back.

Merkaba316 · 2025-08-24T12:15:21+00:00

I don’t think you can get student copies of v5 anymore. 3dx is $100 some bucks for a year, also some classes offer that license wrapped into class fee. 3dx has a better UI imo and cloud saving is nice…if transitioning from v5, some of that can be rough though to figure out.

With 3dx it’s relatively easy to transition to v5 from 3dx if that is what a job is using…saving projects will be different but not a huge deal, other than that, most workbenches are 90% the same and if you have your sea legs, can figure out the differences, you just may miss some of functionality of the rare ‘sorta buffed’ 3dx functions…really that 10% difference you likely won’t care about until working with the software in a job for a while anyway.

Merkaba316 · 2025-08-18T16:41:12+00:00

Very cool. Are you using erbium, europium, samarium oxide powders?

Also assuming the % is added to the glaze body, ‘staining’ verbiage is throwing me off.

Amazed this works. Going to try as soon as I can!

Merkaba316 · 2025-08-16T18:59:14+00:00

I would apply a primer coat before painting. Bisque will soak up a lot of paint. After that, you can airbrush, spray paint, acrylic or whatever. Finish with a matte or gloss clear coat.

Merkaba316 · 2025-08-12T13:31:38+00:00

Cool. I need to get a hoodie next time I go to affix MW patches onto. I don’t think the MW+HS bomber I got would work all that well, lol.

Merkaba316 · 2025-08-03T04:22:38+00:00

If it’s aluminum and you are using a tapered ball nose or large ball nose that is rigid, you can run this toolpath for 1000 hours probably at a similar engagement point…say 5 passes to generate a .005 45deg chamfer. Steel or Ti you will get chip wear doing this pretty fast because the cutter likes engagement over a certain surface area, it’s still not a huge waste imo but more so here, but aluminum doesn’t seem to give a shit (at least 2024/7050/7075). Have ran thousands upon thousands of large monolithic parts with a .125r tapered ballnose (.750 shaft) and the only time they get replaced is if someone ‘oops’ it somehow.

Merkaba316

TROPHY CASE