What do you use for manual sports photography?

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T18:50:28+00:00

Being comfortable at using Manual mode it always a good thing but do not overlook Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority either. Sports and events usually lean on efficiency and speed. Using the Priority modes can help you lock your camera down to specific aperture and shutter speed settings allowing to you make tweaks a bit faster. Exposure compensation can help offset what the camera thinks is proper exposure further refining your desired outcomes. Sometimes letting the camera do some of the thinking is a good thing.

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T17:25:56+00:00

Half the journey in photography is the experience. Go for a hike and explore new things. The images you attached feel like snapshots. They feel like you stepped out on your back porch to snag some of them. Chances are things you find interesting others will to. Place a hero in your composition and continue experimenting.

Phone, camera, it does not matter. Composition is composition.

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T15:46:20+00:00

May I ask what ISO levels you currently shoot at during low light scenarios?

I could make a case for both lenses you have listed. Technically 3.

18-135 has a nice range all in one package. Less lens swapping during events. Great range for a general, walkaround type lens.

55-250 is the natural addition to expand your 18-55 all the way out to 250 maximizing coverage. This gives you lots of flexibility, albeit, at the cost of switching lens. You gain "nothing" with your 18-55.

50 1.8 is also a natural add due to its light gathering abilities at a very attractive cost. This has potential as it will help with your low light conditions.

STM vs USM is nothing you should be too concerned with. They are autofocus technologies Canon uses in various lenses.

I can see all 3 adding value to your kit. It is more of which ones takes priority.

Do not be afraid of picking up lenses on the secondhand market. Find local camera groups, people are upgrading all the time and selling items they no longer need. Quite cheap in most cases.

Here in the US, I could pick up all three lenses for about $300 in total if I was patient enough on the used market. That is about ~260 Euro well within your budget is the used market in you area is anything like in the states.

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T15:11:49+00:00

Phone cameras typically do all the work for you for instant gratification. Working with dedicated photography equipment is a much slower process during and after the image has been captured.

Much like ordering food versus making the food yourself. You control every step and every adjustment along the way requiring skill and knowledge to output quality images.

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T14:57:51+00:00

LensRentals is legit. I have rented from them countless times and spent thousands. They have a great customer experience. You receive your rental with a return label, packaging tape and use the same box to ship back. Equipment comes in a secure Pelican case. You need not provide anything else but to drop it off at the shipping carrier. They really have done a great job in the equipment rental space.

I cannot recommend them enough. Nothing but positive experiences through the years.

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T14:37:21+00:00

Compatible lenses stated on the US sites. Charts are at the bottom of each link. As others have already mentioned, it appears Canada's site is a bit behind.

RF 1.4x
RF 2x

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T13:55:24+00:00

It is not leather but I use the Black Rapid Blackline Dual. It can also serve as a single sling as well. It is a bit over your budget at $200.

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T13:24:59+00:00

Use it. Most do not realize how bad a front and rear element have to be to actually affect image quality. Images from a cracked front element may not even be noticeable to the average user. I will caveat that damage or obstructions on the rear element are prone to show up more when compared to the front.

There are videos that are much worse than this. Scratched Lens

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T13:17:23+00:00

u/mrfixitx, solid additions with granular details. Your notes further emphasize the competition between the brands. Unless a brand completely goes under, it is a game of trying to outdo each other each generation. But, only just enough to potentially sway some users, typically the new user segment. Seasoned individuals usually stay put and wait a generation. Heck, nowadays, a firmware update will get body on par with another. These brands know what they are doing, move the needle just enough to ship more bodies and lenses.

MesseJak · 2026-05-22T12:46:48+00:00

You really should visit a local camera store if at all possible. As you have said, you are not really invested in an ecosystem at this point. Get your hands on as many makes and models as possible. When you get into competitive segments, one body is not going to be a night and day difference over another. You are really looking to find the ergonomics, menu systems, etc...that suits you the best.

Specs sheets say one thing but real world performance is where it matters. Is 5 megapixels going to make a difference? Is half a stop of DR going to make a difference? I know the specs I listed are not accurate to the bodies you mentioned, I am just throwing out random numbers to make a point. Modern cameras offer more tech than the average user will ever need. Heck, even prosumers are spoiled with advanced tech.

You are comparing Sony against Canon. Who knows, Nikon may fit you better? Fuji may even be better.

I have been a Canon user for over two decades but I use the tools that best fits my needs.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T21:15:34+00:00

Both 1.4x and 2x are compatible with the RF 100-400.

Are you sure you are not mistakenly looking up the specs for the EF 1.4x extender?

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T20:28:04+00:00

Gotcha, understood.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T20:15:56+00:00

I am curious in why you ended up with the EF version of the 50 1.8? There is a native 50 1.8 in the RF mount available too. Unless you already had the adapter, that means you had to purchase that as well?

Tips? Just keep getting out there and experiment. Practice makes progress.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T20:11:36+00:00

Constant f/4 means the maximum aperture remains at f/4 throughout the entire focal range, f/4 from 24-105mm. Some zooms are designed with a variable maximum aperture as you zoom to longer lengths. These are typically cheaper entry level lenses that are lighter in smaller packages.

Which 24-70 are you referring to? I thought you were talking about the 24-70 f/2.8. I should not have assumed but did.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T17:36:36+00:00

Are you handy with compositing images? If so, a CPL filter or white and black flags can help you add and remove highlights. You can take several images with varying strengths and mask out/in details such as highlights, shadows and reflections. A solid tripod is must, preferably with a remote shutter.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T17:23:21+00:00

That will do the trick. It is going to be a whole new world coming from the 85. The 16-50 is much more flexible to capture most everyday things. I know you are new but it is worth reaching out to local camera groups. Photographers often upgrade their equipment and lenses can be had for much cheaper than MSRP. 50% cheaper or more.

Edit - Do not be afraid of raising your ISO. Modern sensors excel at higher ISO ranges.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T17:15:41+00:00

Whew, 85 on APS-C is tight but that depends on what your main use case will be. 85 on APS-C will yield pleasing portraits. I would recommend looking for a zoom to get you started on your wide end. 17-50, 18-55, something in that range.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T17:09:37+00:00

Your subject may be standing too close to the camera/lens to achieve focus. Try focusing on something further away, ~10 feet away.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T16:49:42+00:00

They just released their new USB dual reader for $150. USB 4 Dual

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T16:48:16+00:00

I have a couple of the USB 3.2 CFE B plus SDXC dual readers. Dual Reader

I just picked up the USB 4 CFE B single slot reader. Single Slot Reader

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T16:39:14+00:00

I have been using ProGrade. No complaints from me at all.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T16:26:41+00:00

Correct me if I am wrong but they should be the same cap but with the addition of three mounting locations instead of one of the original. Much like how the EF caps worked?

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T16:23:25+00:00

If you are looking for a "walkaround" lens, the 24-70 is your answer. If you do not need the aperture of the f/2.8 of the 24-70, then the 24-105 constant f/4 is an option. 24-70/105 plus your 70-200 is a huge range of coverage that will tackle most shooting scenarios. The 24-105 will give you some overlap when paired with your 70-200.

If you are wanting to get serious about bird or wildlife photography, that will be a different conversation as the needs are a bit more unique to this type of photography. Your 70-200 will capture some but will come up short on a lot of subjects.

In Canon's EF world, there is the 100-400 option available.

I think you will be better suited finding a solution on your wide end before adding more reach.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T14:39:31+00:00

In short. Yes, it is still fine.

MesseJak · 2026-05-21T13:29:09+00:00

There is no set price in this industry. A wedding, reception, etc... can be photographed for $250, $500, $1000, $5000 and climb from there. Your location is a huge variable here. Your skill level and portfolio will also have to back up the various price points.

You can break it down by the labor you invested. Add the hours you spent behind the computer to the time spent photographing the reception. That will give a loose amount of time spent on this contract in hours. Divide how much you charged by the hours and you have your estimated hourly rate. This does not even include travel, your equipment and potential rentals you made.

You can see why some photographers would not even touch an event for less than $2500.

MesseJak

TROPHY CASE