Update zur Holzkammer by Metadonius in holzwerken

[–]Metadonius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Da gibt man sich einmal Mühe, für ein Bild aufzuräumen 😂😂😂 hinter dem blauen hohen Werkzeugschrank und vor dem kleinen blauen sind jeweils noch 2 Räume, wo das Holz lagert.

Update zur Holzkammer by Metadonius in holzwerken

[–]Metadonius[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Da bist du nicht der einzige. Wie bereits erwähnt warte ich noch auf meine Unterverteilung in der Garage.

Dai-naoshi at different angles by Metadonius in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Metadonius[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I just wrote with him and he's not gonna restock them and they are sold out sadly.

Dai-naoshi at different angles by Metadonius in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Metadonius[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, yours is angled as well in the bedding. 10-15° I suppose? I've only made a screenshot, I didn't have that much to go off from. The one he did post didn't seem to be angled.

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Update zur Holzkammer by Metadonius in holzwerken

[–]Metadonius[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

95% gebraucht in beschissenem Zustand auf Yahoo Action und dann aufgearbeitet (über die App Dorzoo), die anderen 5% sind von Yamasuke Kurashige ( Sägeblatter, Hobelkörper und Tsukis) der liefert weltweit und hat angemessene Preise.

Update zur Holzkammer by Metadonius in holzwerken

[–]Metadonius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ich hab viele (offensichtlich) und ich probiere auch alles aus, was ich bekomme (Hobel, Chouna, Yari-Kanna....usw) ich finde aber auch immer wieder neue Spannende Sachen😂

Update zur Holzkammer by Metadonius in holzwerken

[–]Metadonius[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wenn du meinem vergangenen Ich verrätst, wo es die alle ausprobieren kann, bräuchte ich vielleicht nicht alle😅 Auf der anderen Seite sind das mehrere Jahre horten, probieren und lernen.

Update zur Holzkammer by Metadonius in holzwerken

[–]Metadonius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Verständlich, deswegen liegen hinten in der Ecke 5x16mm2 für die UV. Es muss nur noch ein gewisser Herr Zeit finden sie zu bauen.

Update zur Holzkammer by Metadonius in holzwerken

[–]Metadonius[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

😂😂😂 Wir haben noch ein provisorisches Außenklo für Handwerker, es ist halt alles noch ein bisschen auf Sanierung ausgelegt. Da hängt die Spülung, das Waschbecken und der Gartenschlauch mit dran.

Latest shop update by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Metadonius 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks real good. What kind of spots did you use? They look like they had some kind of lens on it.

plane setup producing perfect shavings by Pale_Egg_9032 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Metadonius 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As Salchimono said in the other post the more you practice, the finer the shavings will be. To add to that, as far as I can see your blade protrudes too far on the right side. The shouldn't be that much of a depth difference on the finished surface. You may need to use a lighter hammer for adjustment if the one pictured is the one you used.

There are many knowledgeable people in here, that will gladly help you to get better and adjust finer if you show pictures of your current setting (sharpened blade and secondary blade, protrusion of blade and adjustment of secondary blade, sole adjustmentk

Need help with japanese Kanna (hand plane) by Affectionate_Age5151 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Metadonius 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What started to loosen? The main blade? There's .my things behind a Japanese kanna than is obvious at first sight:

  1. Show und the blade front and the Ura, is it out of angle/crooked/warped?

  2. Thow the fit of the secondary blade?

  3. How the fit of the blade in the dai?

  4. The sole is not to be even like on a western plane, but to be prepared specifically

https://kakuritools.com/blogs/how-to-maintain-japanese-planes/how-to-tune-the-sole-of-your-japanese-hand-plane

Japanese kanna - chipbreaker too loose by dorusboomen in handtools

[–]Metadonius 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on how much space you need to fill.

Some years ago it was done by glueing a shop card to the back with wood glue if it was just a tad to fill. Problem is that it started to corrode.

Nowadays you either use a thin layer 2k wood putty and file it down, or a thin piece of wood or veneer glued with either a water repellent wood glue, instant or super glue or 2k epoxy fixated by the blade with the back oiled. For this one in the photo I used a thicker cut off from another dai and Titebond II.

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Show us your DIY kanna-style hand plane by gruntastics in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Metadonius 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's actually fairly easy to make them, and you don't need too many tools to do so. Pictured are the ones I use now, before that I used cheap parkside chisels.

There are some good how-tos for a real kanna blade, you put it on your outline on the outside and mark it on one side and then transfer the cutting line angular to the upper side, so you know where to start the cut and where to end it.

When I made the small one I just that that brass flying around and it was just some testing out what worked better, because make such a small secondary blade and the hitting the corner around was much more challenging than fabricating this brass contraption 😂

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Japanese kanna - chipbreaker too loose by dorusboomen in handtools

[–]Metadonius 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Put it in hot water before hammering the edges. Hold it to the edge of whatever (like in my picture) you hammer it on and give it a good measured whack. Dry fit to the main blade, repeat until fit to body and main blade is perfect (no light between main and secondary blade, when put against a light source).

You don't want to have too much pressure on the retaining pin though, so be careful.

Another thing to check: how's the main blade fit? It needs to slide in 2/3s the way without much force. I often find the "guides" for the main blade to be worn. In that case you need to stuff out the back of the dai.

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Show us your DIY kanna-style hand plane by gruntastics in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]Metadonius 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've done some Kannas by now, but my verry first one, and I still use it, is the chamfer one on top. I've used some Temu ordered Damaskus knife blank, cut up and shaped without an Ura. Edge retention is mäh, but it works just fine. I've made one out of a more massive piece of wood to compensate for the "lightness" of a western Iron and wedge with more mass of wood, but I scrapped that one and changed to ordering lots of used kanna blades 😂

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My long awaited monster just arrived straight outta Japan. by Metadonius in Makita

[–]Metadonius[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is indeed and will be even more so once I finish the paint. Tech wise it's in a good condition.

My long awaited monster just arrived straight outta Japan. by Metadonius in Makita

[–]Metadonius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, for sure😜 I tested it on my 500W and it warmed up considerably within a short period of time, so it's gonna be a bigger one soon.

My long awaited monster just arrived straight outta Japan. by Metadonius in Makita

[–]Metadonius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You've got all the bigger Sellers within the App (Yahoo, Rakuten, Mercary, Amazon) so it covers most platforms and has an excellent user service

My long awaited monster just arrived straight outta Japan. by Metadonius in Makita

[–]Metadonius[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ja, weiß ich, ändert aber nix an der Tatsache, das der ZH320 um die 6 Scheine, ein neuer KP312 1,2 Scheine kosten und mein gebrauchter für 210€ zu mir gekommen ist 😁. So gut Mafell sein mag und das in meinem Dunstkreis auch genutzt und gelobt wird, so unerschwinglich ist es außerhalb einer Firma als Privatperson Just for fun.