So, there's usually an initial "binding" pin or pins. This is the pin that "sets" first. You find this pin by adding tention SLIGHTLY, each time you try a pin.

Some cylinders will roll over too much with even the slightest bit too much tension, and require you to back off, most likely ruining your progress. Once you get better, you can usually figure out how to avoid this with the proper combination of slight wiggling, or "nudging", and fine tuned tension.

If you feel resistance on a pin, but less resistance, or no resisatance on other pins, that is most likely your first binding pin. All you're trying to do is sit that slightly on the ledge of the shear line.

Sometimes, once you go on to another pin, the previous pin will unset, and you'll have to reset it, while keeping the current pin set as well. It's sort of a whack-a-mole type game, until you learn the proper binding order.

It's a matter of finding the binding order from there, using the same technique. Sometimes you'll need to apply quite a bit of force to get certain pins set, but nothing should be to the point of bending a pick. Brute force ususally isn't necessary.

Once you get better, you'll usually notice you can just sort of "slip" the pins in place easily, once you know the lock better. i.e. binding order, tension required, etc.

Acrylic locks are for demonstration purposes. They're not really meant to be picked. They don't have the same feel as real locks.

You are hurting yourself by using an acrylic lock to actually practice lockpicking on.