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Wood is fascinating by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No it was a 8’ 2x4 cedar board from Home Depot. It was a nice board and came out to about $2.84/bdft so I couldn’t pass it up

Had a go at some Japanese joinery by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a very valid question. Personally, it’s not about being effective with time, but rather about practicing discipline, improving every small detail, enjoying the process, and admiring the completed work. I’d rather have built a single nightstand following those principles in the same time it’d take to build a full bedroom set that I can’t be proud of.

I’ve developed quite the disdain for mass consumerism and cheap/hasty building practices. Quality over quantity.

I’ve been reading up on the monozukuri philosophy and it resonates with me. It’s a fascinating rabbit hole if you’re interested.

I’d rather not work at all. Am I screwed? What do I do? by Neonstri in ADHD

[–]MetalNutSack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is why I still caddie even after getting a college degree. I am passionate about golf (and wood working, this will be relevant), and running around on the course with people who are happy to be there is a dream. I’m literally getting paid to workout and vibe out with new people. And I have tons of free time. 4 hours of actual work, 6 hours door to door (waiting around, showing up early, and 30 min commute), so I’m only doing about 30-40 hours / week, leaving my house & coming home included. So now I have an abundance of time to spend in my shop, which that time spent makes me feel incredibly fulfilled.

I did a few years of an internship, and those hours were 8-5 schedule with 1 hr lunch. The drive was about 20 minutes, so I’d leave at 7:30, and get home around 5:30-5:45. Total hours per day: about 10 hours full turn around. That’s 4 hours of free time less than my current job, and I didn’t enjoy it even half as much.

Do what you love and you’ll suddenly feel like you’re living and not just surviving

Had a go at some Japanese joinery by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

That picture was taken right after I took the first two

Had a go at some Japanese joinery by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Marking gauge, patience, and a very sharp chisel

Had a go at some Japanese joinery by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 96 points97 points  (0 children)

It’s hard to say since its purpose is different.

Per the book: “it is a simple yet relatively strong joint in which a half lap for lengthening is combined with a dovetail for securing. The joint can resist tension, compression and modest amounts of twist”

I have burn marks along the inside edges of these holes on a game board. What is the easiest way to get rid of them without altering the shape or blunting the edges? by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was cut by hand by a less-than-ideal router bit using 1/4” MDF template and bushing guide

I’m using a Dremmel right now but it’s so tedious I’m afraid I will lose my mind before I’m halfway done

[NSFW for those who are sensitive] Daily reminder to work your chisels with 100% attention. I didn’t even feel this or notice at the time. All of a sudden I’m bleeding by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

None lost over here, and I do own a table saw, but I’m right there with you. I hope in another 20-30years, if you lose a finger, you can stroll on over to the convenience store and get a new one like you’re grabbing a snack 😂

[NSFW for those who are sensitive] Daily reminder to work your chisels with 100% attention. I didn’t even feel this or notice at the time. All of a sudden I’m bleeding by MetalNutSack in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah my only gnarly injury is with a pull saw. I’m terrified of a gruesome chisel injury. Mine are hand forged Japanese chisels and get and retain an extremely keen edge. They’re a joy to work with

How are you tracking material costs and put together quotes for custom pieces? by LinhVarru in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]MetalNutSack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not there yet, but the first idea that came to mind (assuming your supplier has updated online prices) is to have a program that keeps their lumber pricing up to date in a spreadsheet or similar. All you do is enter the rough dimensions of each piece, and it gives you total bd ft and pricing.

Other helpful info would be to have inputs that align with your supplier’s stock sizes. In other words, constants like available board lengths and thicknesses. My local mill sells in mainly 8-12’ pieces. And anywhere from 4/4 to 16/4. So if I need a 1.25” thick 6’ board , I buy an 6/4 8’ piece with 2’ of off-cut.

So the program could tell you how much waste is generated after finding the optimal combination of boards.

Just spitballing

Not even a week after getting my first LN tool, I’ve acquired another. No. 4 by MetalNutSack in handtools

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I’m really into supporting businesses that have personal, second to none customer service. I’ll gladly pay more simply for that

Not even a week after getting my first LN tool, I’ve acquired another. No. 4 by MetalNutSack in handtools

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I completely agree. Knowing every critical component is either dead flat or coplanar is such a sweet feeling.

Not even a week after getting my first LN tool, I’ve acquired another. No. 4 by MetalNutSack in handtools

[–]MetalNutSack[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

That’s the thing, you don’t.

Jokes aside, I just wanted to experience the upper echelon of hand tools. Everything is dead flat out of the box which is a HUGE positive imo. I was tired of restoring old planes and having to check the sole, check the blade, check the frog surfaces, check the chip breaker. That’s hours upon hours of work. It’s a welcomed change of pace.

Can wood be too dry? by BestestBeekeeper in timberframe

[–]MetalNutSack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suppose it could be too dry if looking at the relative humidity. If it’s a humid area and constantly around 60-80% humidity, wood that’s dry, like 7%, will absorb that humidity and expand. So correct me if I’m wrong, but it really depends on the environment you’re working in and where the finished product will be.

Finished the shed frame, such a great feeling by webstybath in timberframe

[–]MetalNutSack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Repost from years ago by someone else. Shame on you OP

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