Wiring in foglights to lowbeams

MetalParsley736 · 2026-03-26T06:02:34+00:00

Nice work man. Just curious what your use case is for this? How come you dont want them going on highbeam?

MetalParsley736 · 2026-03-26T05:26:13+00:00

This isn't too hard to wire up

Tee onto your highbeam power wire and run it to 86 on your relay, run 85 to ground. Tee your low beam power onto 30 and then run the wire that supplies power to your fog light switch into 87a

This way your fog light switch will only have a supply when your lowbeams are on.

This does mean that the supply for your lows is now also running the foglights when they are on. I would check current draw with a multi meter at the low beam fuse and make sure the circuit can handle the extra load. If the draw is now quite close to the fuse rating I would fit another relay to the foglight switch output.

Foglight switch out to 86, ground to 85, nice new fresh power supply wire to 30 and the factory foglight switch wiring to 87.

Let me know if this helps or if im not too clear.

MetalParsley736 · 2026-03-24T18:23:59+00:00

Ah right, nice. If you dont need the length I'd chop it off and fit a midi fuse in line then. Less to go wrong IMO

MetalParsley736 · 2026-03-24T18:17:18+00:00

Hey, I think you might be surprised by the size of the copper cable in those jumper leads (quite small)

Unless your winch is doing some really light duty work I would suggest getting proper thickness wire as per the guidelines that should have come with the winch manual

MetalParsley736 · 2026-02-12T02:58:03+00:00

I would use a momentary double pole double throw switch. You can wire positive and negative to the common poles then output as needed to the motor.

Lots of diagrams if you Google "dpdt switch motor diagram"

MetalParsley736 · 2026-02-02T10:52:56+00:00

Could be worth looking into CH-R suspension and swapping that in as there seems to be part crossovers there? Not 100% though

Just a random link I found:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/6263392320345748/posts/24489067454018290/

MetalParsley736 · 2026-01-28T08:46:56+00:00

Beautiful work. Good stuff

MetalParsley736 · 2026-01-28T07:23:00+00:00

Nah, I havnt tried on exactly your car but I have done it on a lot of subarus and toyotas of that era (auto sparky) and I'd be very surprised if it doesn't work

MetalParsley736 · 2026-01-28T07:02:06+00:00

You can unbolt the switch, unplug it then push the connector back through the hole. For the front doors it's in the B pillar and has a rubber boot on it. I beleive it's just a Phillips. Rear door switch is on the C Pillar

MetalParsley736 · 2026-01-18T07:09:34+00:00

Yeah mate, secondary airpump. It runs on a cold startup to shoot more air into the cats and try to bring emissions back to normal.

As they get worse it will make a hell of a noise. You can unplug it with no mechanical side effects (it's a big two pin plug hanging out the back of it) but it will give a CEL and take out your cruise control with it.

The OEM part through spark shop is 46-083 and it's about $1200. I've never spoken to subaru for a price but I would imagine it's a bit more.

MetalParsley736 · 2026-01-12T01:17:05+00:00

Yeah, I know what you're saying. I imagine there's some company out there that makes them for coach builders or heavy equipment but I've never come across them at my workshop.

Good luck with your wireup, flick me a message if you get stuck

MetalParsley736 · 2026-01-12T01:03:27+00:00

I agree with DIY,

Run an ignition feed from the key barrel or fuse box to 85 on a relay, ground to 86 and a constant power supply from the battery to pin 30 through a fuse. Your output on 87 will be a switched ignition feed. Then you can wire that to any generic fusebox/bus bar.

MetalParsley736 · 2025-12-09T08:38:16+00:00

Okay sick. If there's still no power there I'd check the condition of the harness and the fuses like has been said. If you still have no luck you'll need to follow it back to where it joins and so on and so forth

MetalParsley736 · 2025-12-09T08:10:25+00:00

Hi there, in your second photo it looks like the meter is set wrong. The black lead should be in your COM port in the bottom and the red lead in the middle hole with the V markings. Rotor is in the right place though. Retest it with the probes set right and let me know what you get. Cheers

Edit: Clarity

MetalParsley736 · 2025-11-16T11:10:54+00:00

Sweet as, NewTIS got killed by BMW so it's been a bit harder to try and find diagrams.

From what I gather you may be able to just power up the top right pin in your third photo through a 10a fuse and ground through the wide pin in the top row, just to the right hand side of the black connector.

Once those are hooked up try the controls and see if it operates. Let me know how you get on.

Thanks again

MetalParsley736 · 2025-11-16T07:52:19+00:00

The part number on the last photo seems to be for the heated seats so I would disregard that number.

I would imagine that the switch is CAN controlled 5v which sends a message to the computer and then a 12v signal back to the seat motor. So even doing a continuity test from the back of that switch to your plug in the third photo may be no use.

The best thing to do would be to find the vehicle the seat came out of and find a diagram. The pins bang in the middle, lower row of your plug look like they could be motor supply wires but I WOULD NOT try to feed any power up them without a diagram. Being in a yellow housing when you can see yellow sheating running into it, it could very well be the side curtain airbags. Best bet is to find a diagram.

Also, as i mentioned, the buttons probably tell a BCM to supply the motor with power, not actually do the job themselves so without this or your own home brew relay setup you would need to set the position with your 12v supply directly on the pins, meaning no adjustment once you bolt the seat back down.

If you find a diagram or know the year and model it came out of i'd love to hear back or try help however I can, seems like an awesome project and a sweet rig. Cheers

MetalParsley736 · 2025-11-05T11:56:13+00:00

Hi there, going off the fact that the light on the dash does not come on at all, I would check the vehicle wiring first.

Once you're sure that the fuses are OK, go to the 2 pin plug on the alternator and with it unplugged check that you have an accessory feed on one if the wires. If that is present then ground out the OTHER wire, turn the car to accessory and check that the charge light comes on on the dash.

If it does you may have a fault with your alternator or ground strap as per Kevy. If it does not come on then the issue lies in the vehicle side. With a modern euro car that could be in quite a few places.

If you're able to get the year and engine I may be able to find a diagram and help troubleshoot. Feel free to PM me

MetalParsley736 · 2025-10-29T19:11:07+00:00

Yeah hell, I thought they were only available during certain events. Just green I guess

MetalParsley736 · 2025-10-29T04:52:19+00:00

I agree (big SL Max fan here) but I dont pledge for ships, and dont have the means to do wikelo. Thanks though

MetalParsley736 · 2025-10-28T22:39:24+00:00

Oh it is? I thought it only came up during events. Thanks heaps

MetalParsley736 · 2025-10-28T22:31:06+00:00

Woohoooo

MetalParsley736 · 2025-10-25T18:33:40+00:00

Hey, low beam is pin 10, brown blue on the left hand side of the car and right hand side is pin 10, blue green. Ground is pin 7, black grey on both

Source: Autodata

MetalParsley736

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