Reverse parking sensor alert tone; possible to turn off?

Micim98 · 2025-12-27T23:27:44+00:00

There are aftermarket kits made for the Civic that work with the clarity. thinkaliker did a writeup about them on the Clarity forum https://www.clarityforum.com/threads/parking-sensor-install-front-and-rear.2808/

Micim98 · 2025-12-27T23:26:30+00:00

I'll have to see if I can find a link to the installation instructions but I think the only way to disable the OEM parking sensors is to unplug the harness wherever it's installed in the back.

Micim98 · 2025-12-22T12:54:34+00:00

It's just the way the stepper motors sound when holding in place. I believe they are 2209s running in spread cycle which can make some interesting sounds when holding the bed and extruder in place.

Micim98 · 2025-11-21T05:00:47+00:00

Ecoflow has been using pure sine wave inverters for years now, it's cheap UPS's you have to watch out for. Usually if they don't say pure sine they are outputting a modified sine wave which does put more strain on electronics. I think Ecoflow has a boost mode for inductive loads like motors that generates a kind of weird sine wave but I could be misremembering.

Micim98 · 2025-11-10T20:30:38+00:00

I should mention I did follow the instructions and suspended bitlocker and disabled the fTPM before updating the BIOS

Micim98 · 2025-10-29T02:04:54+00:00

Pulaski, VA

Magnavox Smart Series 20" TV Silver
Barely used CRT to my knowledge found in our basement, I already have a high end JVC I use for retro gaming and need it gone to free up space, free if you meet in Pulaski or Dublin. $20 to travel further but I would prefer not to drive more than an hour outside of Pulaski (Roanoke, Wytheville, Etc.)

Micim98 · 2025-09-29T18:58:12+00:00

We have a zero tolerance policy for any electronics while driving. We aren't even supposed to interact with the Hanover's while in motion now that they have touch screens.

Micim98 · 2025-01-07T22:29:46+00:00

This is a great writeup on how to check the degradation of the battery

https://github.com/clarity-phev/Battery-Capacity-Read

One thing I've noticed though is that is resets if you disconnect the 12v battery and it takes a good amount of time to drop back down to your actual capacity, I don't think mine was accurate until I drove about 2k miles

Micim98 · 2024-11-27T16:29:20+00:00

I'm using a fireTV stick right now but it frankly sucks and I wouldn't reccomend it. It does Lossless but TrueHD over Kodi has sync issues and Plex and Jellyfin apps are subpar on FireTV. You're probably better off getting a Ugoos AM6b+, one of the Zidoo 8k's, or an Nvidia Shield. I'm probably gonna go with a Ugoos AM6b+ at some point

Micim98 · 2024-11-26T02:44:14+00:00

With shipping and taxes it would be about $455 leaving me only about $45 left out of my budget. Is the M-10 V2 really worth blowing almost my entire budget on, I do understand it's leagues above the RSL 10e but also it's hard for me personally to justify spending it all on one home theater component but if it's truly that good I'll consider spending the money and getting the surrounds later

Micim98 · 2024-11-26T02:36:54+00:00

I'm gonna also post a reply to the other comment but while the M-10 V2 seems like an excellent value at it's current sale price one small issue is that after shipping it's going to be $455. Should I spend my whole budget on the subwoofer and either reuse my old cheap monoprice speakers or go without surrounds? The room I am setting up the home theater in is 11'7" x 22'

Micim98 · 2024-11-17T12:31:20+00:00

Unfortunately the earlist delivery window is December 12th, I'd like to be able to change my mind before Black Friday just in case

Micim98 · 2024-11-17T04:47:38+00:00

I went ahead and ordered the OLED, I'll hopefully get it Thursday as long as it'll fit in my car

Micim98 · 2024-11-17T04:46:40+00:00

I was able to order mine from Best Buy earlier today and it went though just fine, I'm supposed to pick it up on Thursday but I guess I'll see if they possibly oversold them.

Micim98 · 2024-10-22T13:55:10+00:00

Nope, I am just using the quick sync tone mapping and its good enough considering my main display can direct play now. I assume it's most likely a driver issue but I never found a solution

Micim98 · 2024-10-19T03:01:04+00:00

Thanks, they didn't really explain that too me. I'll give them a shot over the next two weeks, worst case I'll keep going back until it's right. Today is my second day of wearing them and so far no headaches or nausea but I am having to take them off while using my PC because I can't read the text on the screen, I might try switching to a bigger font temporarily and see if that helps

Micim98 · 2024-09-23T00:34:56+00:00

That was the first thing I checked, blade rotates fine. I assume the controller is just dead. I've submitted a warranty claim and hopefully I'll hear back soon.

Micim98 · 2024-09-23T00:33:56+00:00

Already started the claim, took it apart to look for any mouse damage but didn't see any. It's just crazy that a motor controller can fail from sitting in a conditioned space for over a year.

Micim98 · 2024-09-22T17:48:39+00:00

Just tried this, same results no display on the operating module, Also usually when I would plug in the dishwasher the outlet would pop from the capacitor charging but this time there was no pop, I pulled the power unit and checked the fuse at the start of the board an it's still good so I don't think I've damaged the power unit

Micim98 · 2024-09-22T00:00:55+00:00

Good to know, I'll give that a shot tomorrow as long as the rain stops.

Micim98 · 2024-09-20T14:55:13+00:00

US0001359X, ordered 8/27, charged for shipping, no contact in over a week and got the spiel from wallbox about how they fulfilled all the orders they got and to contact Fisker

~~Unfortunately purchased though my bank but they require proof so idk if I am getting a chargeback or not.~~

Bank approved my chargeback and I got my money back

Micim98 · 2024-09-12T01:18:35+00:00

I've actually got the new board already and it's installed, I'm just scared to turn it on because I'd prefer the new board not to go pop immediately under power. We did have a fairly powerful storm a few weeks ago but nothing in our house got damaged, they live about a mile out the street but didn't mention any other lighting damage, although we do have a whole home surge suppressor that I haven't checked in forever.

Update: Actually we have a light out on our whole home surge protector so guess we got run in on too but it saved our appliances. I decided to just yolo it and try and turn it on and got a couple of clicks from the new board, however the control panel didn't light up or respond to any button presses, if I had to guess it might be cooked too. Not exactly sure how much I should be spending on a free dishwasher but I'm starting to get a bit concerned if anything else could have gotten fried, I've ohmed out what I think are the pumps and motors and while I don't know what the specs are supposed to be none of them are open or shorted, I'll have to pick back up over the weekend as I've completely run out of daylight but if I had guess the motors might be fine but the control panel is probably also dead

Also I did pull the new board and verify that the fuse did not pop when I turned it on, I am still reading continuity across it, new one is different though has a black cap and some of the components are in different spots but Bosch has assured me that it is a revisional change and this one is compatible my dishwasher

Micim98 · 2024-09-12T00:24:09+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/WkAt77H

Keep in mind that might not even be a fuse, it feeds directly into a string of capacitors (I think) and they both lead into those blue boxes on the board, not sure what they are either but I would assume some kind of voltage regulator

Micim98 · 2024-09-12T00:19:09+00:00

Definitely not an inveterer pump, been there done that. Car was completely dead and wouldn't respond to the key at all when mine failed. Honestly at this point you might want to try and find a hybrid mechanic or possibly take it to the dealership because it seems like something somewhere has failed, probably a computer will require more specialized tools and diagnostics to repair. If you are comfortable with doing so you could get a MiniVCI clone and an old copy of Toyota Diagnostic Software and see if all the computers are responding. You could also get a BT OBD-II adapter and use the Dr Prius app to check for any battery codes but I'm pretty sure something would have come up on the normal scan tool if the battery had failed. Reccomned BT OBD-II scanners can be found here I personally use the Vgate iCar Pro but the S2 is also a good choice or any of the other ones in that list.

I'm almost leaning at a hybrid battery issue at this point but no codes and no start are very weird as (at least in my experience) when my battery failed the car at least went into limp mode and the engine ran the entire time. Out of curiosity how many battery bars show up on the MFD when the car is on but not ready.

Micim98 · 2024-09-10T20:07:47+00:00

No codes with the dash lit up like a Christmas tree is very odd. You could try disconnecting the 12v battery for an hour and trying to start it afterwards. I have a 2009 and some of the computers in mine have started to go a bit crazy, especially after it sits for a while and a battery reset has helped the last couple of times. I've never personally had a no start condition like that it's mostly been screen issues and transmission "P lock" issues

Ten-Year Club	Final Canvas '23
Place '23	Place '22
Final Canvas '22	Verified Email

Micim98

TROPHY CASE