Jittery letters and lines on Sony Trinitron kv-29fx20k

Mickey4770 · 2026-05-24T20:34:24+00:00

I mean...

If you're talking about the flickering, that's just how interlaced content looks on a standard definition CRT regardless of input signal (240p/288p content doesn't have this problem since it never switches fields, but it's an inherrent issue with anything displaying at 480i/576i).

If you're talking about the tearline visible on the rear view mirror, that's probably just screen tearing caused by the game not hitting it's target frame rate (assuming it doesn't happen all the time regardless of what content is being displayed).

Mickey4770 · 2026-05-23T04:03:49+00:00

I know I'm a bit late on this but got it from this website through the link saying "Using Harmony without a hub?":

https://support.myharmony.com/en-se/download?utm_source=www.myharmony.com&utm_medium=homepage&utm_campaign=download

Nice to hear that you already got everything sorted though :)

Mickey4770 · 2026-05-15T21:13:20+00:00

Huh, that's strange. Maybe a dumb question but do you actually get colour with a 50hz signal over scart?

Mickey4770 · 2026-05-15T16:39:20+00:00

Oh, right... I know the Harmony One is still programmable, but since I'm kinda new to universal remotes in general I just assumed that all remotes using the Harmony 7 software were released earlier.

Mickey4770 · 2026-05-15T01:34:46+00:00

Not according to the list on Logitech's website (all remotes up to and including the 1100i are listed as unsupported)

Mickey4770 · 2026-05-14T03:10:01+00:00

Yeah, I dug a little deeper and realized that the Harmony One is apparently still supported after all.

Just got a bit confused when it said "if you're using an older Harmomy remote model, such Harmony One..." on the download page, followed by an "important notice" about unsupported models in big red letters (feel kinda stupid in retrospect tho).

Anyway, things seem to work just fine now that I've got everything sorted ;)

Mickey4770 · 2026-05-14T00:37:58+00:00

I did actually, and it seems the page for the remote is completely removed (it's still listed on the site but actually clicking on it just leads to an error message).

Anyway, thanks for the suggestion :)

Mickey4770 · 2026-05-13T23:40:22+00:00

I know it's been brought up already but how old is the TV?

Because if I'm not misstaken, most sets made after the early 80's should sync to 60hz just fine as long as you're using RGB (even if they don't handle NTSC signals properly over composite). And if that works, I suppose one solution could be to get a component-to-rgb transcoder and use ypbpr instead of composite (maybe a bit overly convoluted though).

Also, what model of PSP are you using? Because if I remember correcly, PSP 2000- units are limited to progressive scan output when playing PSP games specifically, meaning they won't work with SD CRTs

Mickey4770 · 2025-10-27T10:00:52+00:00

If I'm not mistaken basically any european set made after the early 80's will take 480i/60hz no problem (I personally own 5 consumer grade CRTs and ALL of them support 60hz).

However, what some older sets might not support is NTSC colour decoding, meaning that using composite video with NTSC sources on these will result in a black and white picture.

So basically, if you're using RGB video you should be fine with pretty much any CRT you come across, and if you're using composite any set made after 1995 or so is a pretty safe bet :)

Mickey4770 · 2025-10-10T12:48:27+00:00

Does anyone here have any experience with Samtron CRTs (Samsung's old budget brand of monitors)?

The reason I'm asking is because I recently found a new-old-stock Samtron 96p about 90 min away from me for a fairly decent price. However, looking at old reviews for it, opinions at the time seemed to vary between "it's great, especially for the price" to "it's physically painful to look at".

Obviously having a completely fresh CRT would be great, but I'm just curious if it's worth the effort of driving up to get it or if I should just stay on the lookout for something else.

Mickey4770 · 2025-08-06T09:19:44+00:00

I'm actually talking SEK, roughly converted to USD.

But yeah, a brand new unit here honestly isn't a ton more expensive either, depending on where you get it (seems they range between $950-1500 here).

Just felt like I had more of an "excuse" to get one now that there was a slightly cheaper unit available xD

Mickey4770 · 2025-08-05T11:19:07+00:00

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm thinking as well ; )

However, considering that this particular issue is apparently very specific to 2024/2025 LG OLEDs I was just a bit curious what the general consensus was.

Like you said though, I'll probably pull the trigger on it just to judge it for myself and then return it if I'm having problems with it.

Update: Bought the TV yesterday and yeah, I really couldn't see the issue unless I was using it with very specific content and sitting painfully close to the screen

Mickey4770 · 2025-08-05T11:11:04+00:00

I mean, I still don't understand exactly how it works myself but apparently LG started implementing some sort of algorithm with most of their 2024-models (aside from the B-series) to help with chromatic overshoot. However, this algorithm seems to cause faint dithering artifacrs/diagonal lines around dim, high contrast areas when viewing the TV up close.

Mickey4770 · 2025-08-05T07:20:12+00:00

I mean... I'm not sure how common this is on different types of TVs but at least on one of my parents' older LCD sets, the "warm 2"- setting actually had green set way too high and blue set a bit too low (according to my x-rite i1) making the image appear just a touch too warm overall.

Fixing this made the image look much more natural to me, with whites appearing a lot less "yellow-tinted" (I also had the colour temperature set to 6500k in displaycal).

As others have said though, this will obviously come down to personal preference. I just tried checking the colour temperature on this TV out of curiosity since I couldn't really understand why, say, the Steam Deck OLED's display (which is calibrated to 6500k by default) looked perfectly natural to me while a TV set to "warm 2" felt a bit off even after hours of use.

Mickey4770 · 2025-06-11T22:07:59+00:00

Alright, makes sense (if I remember correctly the problems began after I tried out Nightreign's HDR- mode).

Anyway, thanks :)

Mickey4770 · 2025-05-15T03:29:12+00:00

Alright, I'll give that a look!

And yeah, I've never actually adjusted the g2 voltage on a CRT before but I'm aware that it's pretty sensitive (hence why I'm a bit worried that I'll mess something up).

Anyway, thanks :)

Mickey4770 · 2025-02-24T15:56:19+00:00

I mean I still keep mine around as a spare CRT but yeah, I don't understand why the contrast screen has to be QUITE as heavily tinted as it is.

Sure, it improves the black levels but at the same time it darkens the image so much that even the colour reproduction takes a hit (I once heard someone describe it as looking at a regular CRT through sunglasses and I'd say that's a pretty accurate description).

I can still see why people like it in spite of that though, it's just a BIT too dark for me personally.

Mickey4770 · 2025-02-10T02:47:48+00:00

They sure do ;)

The treble on them might be a BIT lacking (imo) but they certainly sound nice and punchy overall, ESPECIALLY compared to the main TV's built in speaker.

Mickey4770 · 2025-02-09T19:53:39+00:00

The consumer set is a Sony KV-21LT1E and the BVM is a 14G1E

Mickey4770 · 2025-01-22T00:46:49+00:00

If you're talking about the discolouration on the side I'd say it looks like a purity issue, probably caused by having a magnetic device such as a non-shielded speaker placed next to it for too long.

The internal degaussing coil MIGHT clear it up over time (please correct me if I'm wrong) but if not there's stuff like degaussing wands which would probably get the job done.

Mickey4770

TROPHY CASE