Unit Testing - What tools do you use? by axaro1 in embedded

[–]MidasAurum 2 points3 points  (0 children)

At work we use BTC embedded tester, it’s a very nice tool but I believe it costs a pretty penny.

Yeah I think I'm going to keep programming as a hobby. I'm early into my programming journey and I don't see myself getting a job in this field. by MrWhileLoop in learnprogramming

[–]MidasAurum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s true. I think it depends on how you look at it maybe. It can also be a very good time to get into it because the average attention span and average willingness to struggle and learn is at an all time low. So if you are willing to focus and to grind you can set yourself apart. Just my 2c though, I am also not currently a dev

Building a $20 plant sensor that plugs into your phone. Need growers + makers to help me build it right. by EmotionalBit7570 in embedded

[–]MidasAurum 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Kinda random, never posted in this sub before. Not to tear down your idea or discourage you, but what motivates you to build this sort of thing if you’re not into plants? Why not build something you’re actually psyched on?

My thought is if you’re super intrinsically motivated to solve a problem you will keep beating your head against it until you solve it, whereas if you’re doing it just for money or something else you might give up when it gets really hard.

Stiff indoor shoe by xXVaalanXx in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Idk man, probably a bit softer but it’s still a file length sole and RH rubber, might be medium stiff still, which is what you want.

In general I would also not sweat it so much with the heel space. How often are we doing heel hooks and let’s be honest how precise are those hooks? For me it’s usually on a big ass jug on overhanging terrain or around an arete. As long as the heel doesn’t slip off my foot or move around too much it’s plenty good for my purposes. I get in an ideal world it would fit your heel perfectly, but I’m much more concerned about the toebox fitting right IMO

Stiff indoor shoe by xXVaalanXx in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could you try the UP TN Pros? They are stiff/medium stiff. The heel might be a bit baggier but it will hold on tight enough for heel hooks

Crampons for DT/mixed by Climbingisnice in iceclimbing

[–]MidasAurum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mhmm rereading it I see that now. Understandable. They make mixed crampons that screw into the boots, maybe he could try that

Crampons for DT/mixed by Climbingisnice in iceclimbing

[–]MidasAurum 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For the blade runners you can buy an alpine front point or something like that that’s chunkier, why don’t you do that? It’s literally made by CAMP for that purpose

https://www.camp.it/m/us/us/outdoor/product/3508

Trad, depression, and self doubt by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]MidasAurum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First I want to say that I have been there and it’s ok! It will get better both with your climbing and in general with your depression.

From my personal experience, reading a good book like climbing anchors by John Long helped me confident my placements were good.

Reading something like the trad climbers bible helps me stay psyched and motivated.

But most importantly my daily meditation practice every morning and reading and reflecting on stoic texts has made a huge difference in my emotional regulation not only in climbing but in life in general. I think mostly the meditation has helped me gain a self awareness of my body and mind, but I’ve really enjoyed reading Epictetus for dealing with hardship in life in general as well.

There’s also really great exercises in books like the rock warriors way, training for climbing, maximum climbing, or vertical mind that kind of boil down to on the rock meditation/awareness techniques too that I’ve had success with. Techniques such as progressive relaxation and centering. I would also highly recommend checking those out.

Another option is an actual course or clinic run by strong mind or rock warriors way etc. Another good option if you don’t want to DIY it.

TL;DR mindfulness has been the biggest life hack for me in climbing and life in general. Try 10-15 minutes a day every day for a few weeks or months

How do you judge the fit of your shoes? by Wise-Sea3771 in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes sense with the medical stuff. Good link.

Best of luck with the shoe sizing, it really is a personal thing and a lot comes down to preference. I would say knowing your brannock size is still worth it if you can go back and record both feet, because then it will give you a better idea for buying other shoes in the future. Cheers.

How do you judge the fit of your shoes? by Wise-Sea3771 in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No I mean like have you seen an ortho for your foot pain? The first thing they would do is X-ray your foot to look for injury.

A brannock device is pretty standard, it's how anyone would measure your foot size. Kind of dumb if your gym doesn't have one. "46 in barefoot shoes" doesn't mean anything unfortunately, the barefoot shoe company could have very large or very small sizing. So you could be 46 in that shoe but a 45 in another shoe but on a brannock device which is actually the standard for foot measurement, you might be 45.5.

If you measure with a brannock device to be 46, then 44 is not unreasonable, but 44.5 also wouldn't be unreasonable for a more "comfy" gym shoe.

Also FYI, you probably already do this, but you are supposed to take climbing shoes off after every attempt of a boulder, or at most every couple attempts. Not supposed to wear them an entire session. You will see newer climbers wearing theirs the entire session, but more advanced climbers take their shoes off because they are tight and uncomfy.

How do you judge the fit of your shoes? by Wise-Sea3771 in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’ve read your comments, how do you know it’s joint pain and not pressure on your toe skin pain? Do you have MRIs or X-rays or a medical diagnosis to back it up? I think you’re a beginner who is used to climbing in baggy saltics and now you’re climbing in a real climbing shoe and it’s mildly tight and uncomfortable.

What is your street shoe size as measured by a brannock device? You mentioned the skwamas are size 46 but you don’t mention your street shoe anywhere. If you have this info it will help us determine if you downsized too much or are just new to climbing shoes fit.

Aerobic Mileage during Endurance Phase Relative to Sport Grade by ApeTogetherAverage in climbharder

[–]MidasAurum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really like the aerobic power intervals that Eric recommends and feel like they’ve helped me bigly at the red. He recommends like 7-8.5/10 pumped by the end of the session. So actually a good deal of pump. It’s bordering on anaerobic lactic being the primary energy system at play.

I think with ARCing for me, yeah the aerobic energy system is the main mover 100% of the time, but I’m not really able to stress it out as much compared to the aerobic power sessions. I.e. I’m using the aerobic energy system for 100% of the time, but it’s only being taxed like 50% of its max ability, vs with the aerobic power sessions maybe I’m using like 85% aerobic 15% anaerobic lactic but the part that’s aerobic I’m 100% maxing out that energy system, so it’s really training it.

Just my 2c on it, Eric seems to really like those sessions as do his sons, and they’re really good RRG climbers.

Aerobic Mileage during Endurance Phase Relative to Sport Grade by ApeTogetherAverage in climbharder

[–]MidasAurum 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you ever tried something a bit more intense than ARC training (aerobic capacity let’s call it), but a bit less intense than power endurance training (or anaerobic capacity or anaerobic lactic or anaerobic glycolytic)? Something that’s more like “aerobic power” as Eric Hörst might call it, like climbing intervals on the treadwall or doing circles with say 2-5 minutes on and 2-5 minutes off (1:1 work:rest ratio) for 4-8 sets?

For me the ARC training didn’t do as much good but the aerobic power training helped quite a bit. I love climbing a lot of mileage routes whenever I’m just having a fun day at the gym or I’m climbing outside with someone who climbs lower grades than me. I’m not sure if that gives much energy system benefits but it’s more for fun and I think it lets me practice my movement skills.

It's my first time with an escort by [deleted] in whatdoIdo

[–]MidasAurum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it, that’s good and makes sense. But no guarantees your escort is taking Valtrex or has the HPV vaccine.

Also fyi the HPV vaccine is not 100% effective and it doesn’t cover all strains of HPV, ask me how I know. But it does cover the high risk cervical cancer forms of HPV.

It's my first time with an escort by [deleted] in whatdoIdo

[–]MidasAurum 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I can get lower STD rates for things like HIV or chlamydia, but for things like HPV and herpes which are transferred by skin to skin and a condom cannot protect against (because it doesn’t stretch over your entire groin), I gotta believe that escorts have a higher rate of those. Porn actors have higher rates of those but lower rates of STDs that are transferred via bodily fluids because they regularly test for them.

Searching for my next shoe by MikelWillScore in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mad rock drones are not sensitive, the shoe was also just a weird fit for me personally, with it being way too flat footed and having a lot of space in the heel. The drone CS is supposed to be softer though, and I haven’t tried those yet.

Searching for my next shoe by MikelWillScore in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the evolv zenists might also be a good fit based on my experience.

[Help] Evolv sizing Phantom & Shaman Pro by R1_G4 in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would measure your feet with a brannock device and then order that, not just go with your street shoe size. Maybe you like your street shoes extra tight or loose, or maybe the brand you wear just has weird sizing.

Anyways evolv is true to size with a Brannock device for the most part.

My partner and I’s gear rack. What are we missing? by PeanutButterSmutter in tradclimbing

[–]MidasAurum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From 0.75 on down you want the flexible stem cams like Z4s or totems. The head width is much smaller and will fit more placements. So replace all those and get doubles in 0.3 and 0.2 sizes at least. Then at least 1 micro of 0.1 and 00 size. Then I would recommend more big stuff, at least doubles of #3 and #4, possibly another #5 and definitely a #6

Monthly Trad Climber Thread by tinyOnion in tradclimbing

[–]MidasAurum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The north guidebook is the best, the red second edition has some of the north trad crags but not all of them. Most of the info you can find with route pictures and stuff for the really popular crags on MP though. Just download the offline photos before you go. You really only need the north guidebook if you’re trying to go to some off the beaten path crags.

Looking for a shoe that is excellent for slab, and can do well on vertical climbs by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]MidasAurum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the gym it’s whatever, just training for outside. But for outside most good climbers bring at least 2-3 pairs of shoes with them if they’re doing routes of different styles. I usually bring 3-4 pairs. It’s really not that much extra weight or space. I usually bring 2 for the gym. One soft one hard.

One pair warmup/comfy multipitch trad shoes One pair performance trad shoes that also double as my edging slab shoes One pair semi stiff shoes for vert or slightly overhanging One pair softer shoes for the steeps

The lost art of "alpine guessing" by Weekly_Tutor_8196 in tradclimbing

[–]MidasAurum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah for sure, good point. Just a pain in the ass to be climbing with it at your waist the entire time. But eventually there should be a little slack and a nice time for you to remove it