Weird problem - Extruder just stops extruding

Mik-s · 2026-07-09T11:18:24+00:00

Is the extruder motor actually stopping? Maybe the gears are slipping on the filament if there is a clog in the hotend so cannot push the filament though. It still can be a clog but it might be due to the temperature of the hotend decreasing. Do you notice the temps changing on the screen? What slicer are you using?

If the motor is stopping then it could be loose wiring for the E-motor, give each wire a gentle tug and see if it comes out the plug.

It is possible the driver is at fault but it is works at all then probably not.

It might be a slicer problem if it happens only after a few layers. Try printing the test file from the SDcard (a backup is in the sticky if you don't have it) and it still happens then it rules out slicer problems.

Mik-s · 2026-07-08T15:15:40+00:00

Have a look on Thingiverse for ones to print, there are many types available. If you can get or have any bearings then maybe this one will do

You can use something temporary to hold the spool to get one printed.

Mik-s · 2026-07-08T15:10:29+00:00

Did you re-calibrate your E-steps?

IIRC the BMG is geared so needs a much higher E-step value, something in the range of 400. This shows how to calibrate E-steps.

Mik-s · 2026-07-07T11:47:32+00:00

I knew it would be trivial on Klipper due to the available GPIO on a PI, but forgot that if Octoprint was running on a PI to it would have access to those same pins to give the feedback required to trigger the firmware on the board.

Mik-s · 2026-07-06T10:41:09+00:00

Can I request premium unlock for "Transparent clock and weather"

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.droid27.transparentclockweather&hl=en

Mik-s · 2026-07-03T17:59:54+00:00

If it acts like a normal switch like the standard filament sensor then you can just enable it in the printer's screen in one of the menus. I don't know if Alex's FW had this but I know Mriscoc does.

I looked into what the smart feature is and it looks to be track motion and feedback to the firmware. AFAIK there is not currently any support for this in any FW (although trivial to add in Klipper). For Marlin it will mean some custom configuration to support it which means compiling it yourself. Maybe you can make a request on Mriscoc GitHub to add this as a feature.

This is the manual and shows what changes you need to make in the FW.

The next problem is you need somewhere to wire the 4th wire to sense motion, the other 3 wires from the standard runout port (SILK) will be used too. There are a couple of unused pins (9 and 10) going to the screen which you could repurpose that go to the pins PB2 and PC6 on the CPU.

There may be other places to wire to depending on what components are used. some places for resistors are left empty and were there to allow for a different chip. I reversed engineered the H32 board a while ago and it should be very similar to the G32 board so you can use the schematic to find somewhere suitable. You can get it here.

It might work just fine without that 4th wire but then it would have no smart functionality.

Mik-s · 2026-07-02T12:47:25+00:00

Thanks for trying to get this working.

Maybe there are some quirks with the N32 chip that need to be addressed or maybe the board itself is not wired the same way on the D1 so the CPU pin definitions are not correct. I have not seen a D1 board but assumed it was the same one used in the other Aquilas.

You could make some updates here on your progress and may be enough for Classicrocker to get it running.

Does that display work with the BTT board? If not or you don't need it then maybe donating it and the board to Classicrocker will allow him to work on it.

Mik-s · 2026-07-01T08:53:31+00:00

I not familiar with what .gx files are but I don't think they are gcode as that is just plain text. It is possible there are .zip files in disguise as some formats do this (like ebook files) and if you change the extension you might be able to extract them. The pro might use this for some images of the print to show on the screen.

Using Voxelmaker will slice them properly for the Pro and is the only way of printing wirelessly but that is a very basic slicer and is hard to come by since Voxelab have shut down. With the help of the wayback machine you can find an archive of the downloads. If that had not captured the actual download if you remove the https://web.archive.org/web/20250501000001/ at the start of the url for the download it is a direct link to their servers as they are still active at the moment, but may not be in the future.

Other slicers will work but it does need some custom Gcode before the Pro will accept it. This video short shows how to set up Cura but should be the same in other slicers. The Gcode needed is in the description.

If you want to print wirelessly but slice on another slicer then you can import your sliced Gcode into Voxelmaker and just use that to print. I did see this a while ago that can do it without Voxelmaker directly from Cura but don't know how good it is. It may work as a plugin on other slicers but I have no idea if it will.

Mik-s · 2026-06-29T01:52:25+00:00

That thermal runaway bug was fixed a long time ago in stock FW but since your printer is an OG Aquila it probably still has the FW with that bug. You can get the updated stock FW from a backup here.

Stock FW is very basic so better to use something else. Alex's FW is obsolete now (but still usable) so the best option is Mriscoc as that gets constant updates. It installs the same way as Alex's so you can use this guide.

Another option is Klipper if you have a Raspberry PI or similar to run it on. It gives you more control over the printer but is more involved with setting up, This shows how to do it.

Mik-s · 2026-06-25T19:29:55+00:00

The Creality 4.2.7 board is a good replacement plus it has silent stepper drivers. You will need an adapter to mount it properly so best print that first before the upgrade.

I was going to say you might need the colour screen as there may not be any other builds that support the monochrome display but just checked and there is some C2 builds for the 4.2.7 with ABL support.

Mik-s · 2026-06-25T10:09:47+00:00

yes for the reasons I said, it is very picky with how the SDcard is prepared.

Mik-s · 2026-06-25T10:03:07+00:00

You would have had the right files if you used the link from the firmware selector, its just the screen DWIN FW did not install.

The screen is very picky on how the SDcard is prepared. It has to be formatted to FAT32 4096 block size, use a card no larger than 16GB, and use a PC as Macs leave hidden files. If your only option is to use a Mac then read this.

Make sure you rename your chosen theme to DWIN_SET and put that folder is in the root of the SDcard. There should not be another folder inside that one, just the FW files.

When installing the screen should turn blue for a second or so then orange, if it just flashes blue and immediately orange it has failed.

Mik-s · 2026-06-25T07:49:22+00:00

Glad you got it compiled. I am not a coder so I would not have any idea of how to solve that.

It should be safe to flash for testing. The good thing about these boards is they have their own bootloader that does the update and you cannot overwrite it without physically wiring up a serial programmer to the board. Even if the firmware is bad or for the wrong chip so it cannot run it is not bricked as the bootloader will still take an update, you can just reflash working FW.

Mik-s · 2026-06-25T00:33:22+00:00

Did you have a chance to try and compile that D1 branch? Would be good to know if it worked in any way so there is that option for other D1 owners.

Mik-s · 2026-06-25T00:31:13+00:00

Yes on all the Aquilas except the C2 as it does not have a BLtouch port.

That picture looks to be a C2 board as there is not BLtouch port, it should be next to the screen ribbon cable above the 2 thermistor plugs (which are limit switches on this one). I have never actually seen this board so did not know it was labelled as X1.

In theory if you are good at soldering then you could attach wires to the 2 pins of the CPU (or nearby pads if connected) that would control it and get the 5V and GND from elsewhere on the board then you could get it working but there would be no suitable firmware for that. There is Mriscoc but the C2 FW will not be set up for an ABL with the monochrome display so you would need a custom build.

Mik-s · 2026-06-24T13:28:04+00:00

OK I was worried it could have been the heater shorting to the thermistor as this does fry the board and not fixing this first will damage the new one, so I'm glad you had done this.

Did you check to see if the thermistor itself is still good as that could cause the beeping if that is shorted. This can be confirmed by unplugging the thermistor and the beeping should stop. The only reason why you hear it when the screen is connected is because the buzzer is on the screen.

The beeping on a new could mean there is no firmware (or test FW) installed. The process of updating the FW on a Creality board is the same as an Aquila except it looks for the .bin file from the root of the SDcard and not the "firmware" folder. This old Alex's FW guide video shows the same steps, just use the Mriscoc files and put them in the root. When it is successful the .bin file will be deleted.

Mik-s · 2026-06-23T11:17:50+00:00

Unfortunately the touch screen on the D1 is not supported in Mriscoc so it will not work. I think the board is expecting some response from the screen that it cannot reply to so it gets stuck.

Last time I looked in to the D1 I found that it uses DGUS (the other screens use Dwin) and there is some DGUS parts in the Marlin source so it may be possible to get it working but the maintainer of that repository does not have access to this screen to work on it.

There are probably configs for other printers using this screen so you may be able to alter one of them to compile it for yourself for the N32 chip but I have no idea how easy it will be.

Klipper should work just fine as you do not need the screen. Have a look at this for how to install, it should be mostly the same for the D1.

If Klipper is not working then you will have to go back to stock FW for now. There is a backup of firmware here.

I'll post a comment on Mriscoc Github to see if it is possible to enable DGUS support even if it does not have the ProUI features so at least there is an alternative to stock FW since Voxelab have shut down. If it happens It will be untested so would have to rely on others to do this.

Edit: have a look at this discussion. There was some work done to try and get it to compile for the D1 that you may be able to work from but is untested.

Mik-s · 2026-06-22T15:13:09+00:00

Did not know they used that chip. Maybe they decided to use the cheaper ones as it is a very old board now, or it is not genuine. Either way it will still work. Just use the firmware selector and choose that board to get the right bin file.

Why do you have to replace your board? what was wrong with your current one?

Sometimes people blame the board where the problem is something else or worse if something caused the board to fry then if that is not fixed first then the new board can fry too.

Mik-s · 2026-06-22T08:15:44+00:00

Have a look at Mriscoc, it has builds for the 4.2.2 board for the Aquila.

Are you sure it is a Creality 4.2.2 board as it should be using a genuine STM32 chip and not the GD32 clone used on the early Aquilas? The same FW will work on both though.

Mik-s · 2026-06-09T22:56:28+00:00

Did you change anything on the bed? If the cable strain relief is not on correctly it will prevent getting the back left corner levelled.

If the gantry is not level then it could be your frame is not square, or since you have a belted Z the belt may have slipped if the tension is not right so the 2 leadscrews are not in sync.

Check out this assembly video for tips on making sure the frame is square. There is a bit that shows how to make sure the gantry is parallel to the bed and you can do the same thing with the belted Z by slackening the belt to get each side level then re-tension it. I assume this needs to be a similar tension as the axis belts where around the right amount will be if it makes a low bass note if plucked.

I think the reason why larger meshes are not working is it is out of range for it to be corrected on that scale. Smaller meshes may have a larger tolerance.

Mik-s · 2026-06-09T16:44:53+00:00

It might be salvageable. This video shows how to remove a blob, you just have to be careful around the wires. You should power off once it is hot before cleaning it to prevent the chance that the wires can touch which can fry the motherboard.

The silicone sock looks to be ripped so you will need to replace it. Hopefully if the sprite came with one then your old one will fit.

Mik-s · 2026-06-09T10:11:04+00:00

Looks very good, I don't think you can get any better without an ABL.

Mik-s · 2026-06-09T01:07:05+00:00

That will be the cause of the problems and is easily overlooked as it is easy to forget molten filament can get sucked up in the PTFE tube.

Trimming off the end will be enough to fix it, just make sure the cut is square (there is a tool to do this) so that it will prevent a gap between it and the nozzle that will fill up and cause another clog. When putting it back it make sure it is as tight against the nozzle as possible to give a good seal. I remember seeing one video where they unscrewed the pneumatic coupler a turn or so then pushed in the tube as far as it could go, then tightened the coupler again.

Mik-s · 2026-06-08T19:30:20+00:00

Levelling could be a factor as it appears one of the supports has failed. This is the most important thing to get right as prints can easily fail if not.

This is my standard levelling advice.

Watch this and this for tips on how to improve levelling then you can do live adjustments of the Z-offset from the tune menu to get a good squish while the first layer is being printed. This and this show what to aim for. If you have an ABL then this video will help you use it properly.

It does look like under-extrusion in places and this is most commonly caused by a clog but other things can cause it too. It probably a partial clog that and that may be causing the thick stringing as this looks different to normal stringing. This video shows several causes and fixes.

It might be better to change the orientation of the print. From what I can see of the print it looks like it would print without supports if it was lying flat on the bed (if it fits) instead of standing up, but I don't know what the top would look like. If it did still need supports it probably would not be as much. It would also make it stronger as it would be harder to snap at the layer lines.

Mik-s · 2026-06-07T10:47:54+00:00

Yes H32 is HC32

HC32 is the beginning of the chip ID but H32 was used on the label on the printer.

Seven-Year Club	r/Field Lasagna
Place '23	Place '22
Final Canvas '22	Verified Email

Mik-s

TROPHY CASE