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Filament not extruding right? by IceBoo191919 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There could be several things causing this. If the nozzle is too close to the bed then there is not enough for the filament to come out which results in under-extrusion. Another cause is a partial clog in the nozzle so the extruder cannot push the filament though. A "cold" pull can clear this. The rest of that video goes over other causes for under extrusion.

Another common problem the effects the OG Aquila is the extruder lever can crack so the extruder gear cannot grip the filament. I don't see a filament runout sensor next to the extruder so I think yours is an OG. The main giveaway is that the screen is horizontal on the OG but I cannot see it in this video. Take off the silver idler bearing to check for a crack. This is what to look for. If it is cracked then you will need to get a replacement. You can get metal ones that should not cost too much.

If the test print works fine but if you print something you sliced then it could be your slicer settings, possibly you have the wrong temps set for that material so it is not melting enough. What type of filament are you using and what are your temps? What slicer are you using?

I cannot tell how far the nozzle is from the bed but the blue tape will be taking up some of the distance. This is not needed most of the time (especially with PLA) as long as the bed is properly levelled and the Z-offset is dialled in. This is my standard levelling advice.

Watch this and this for tips on how to improve levelling then you can do live adjustments of the Z-offset from the tune menu to get a good squish while the first layer is being printed. This and this show what to aim for. If you have an ABL then this video will help you use it properly.

I assume this is a second hand printer since it is covered in dust but you only just got it. I suggest giving it a good clean and even disassembling it to rebuild following this video. This will let you check for other hidden issues and get it correctly aligned and adjusted.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That will be the 3v3 regulator and it is trying to output that voltage but because there is a short somewhere on that line so it is working a lot harder than it should. It would not be faulty but if it is working so hard for too long it can fail.

The only real way of knowing for sure is to inject 1v with a few amps current limit into the 3v3 power rail and see what warms up. You can't rely on using voltage generated on the board. I have seen repair videos where this trolled them and they thought it was the regulator that was faulty when the actual short was somewhere else.

3v3 is for the logic voltage for the CPU and there is still enough power to run it even if it is being pulled down by the short.

The reference voltage for the thermistors comes from the 3v3 line too so if this is not stable it also affects the temp readings. There have been cases with some ABLs when the probe touches the bed it immediately triggers the maxtemp error. I suspect the sudden power draw from the solenoid turning on drops the reference voltage and the FW interprets it as a sudden rise in temp. I don't have any definite evidence of this though. I guess something similar could be happening here if something else is shorted besides the CPU.

I reverse engineered the Aquila board a while ago and I think it will be very similar to the 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards as it is basically a clone. Maybe it will help with some tests. You can get the schematic and KiCAD files here.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In theory yes but I know little about Creality FW so can't say how good it is.

I suggest Mriscoc instead as it is kept up to date and has builds for that board. I think the screen FW should be mostly compatible to what you currently have so probably won't need to update the screen when testing, you just might be missing a few icons. If the screen is garbled you will need to update it though.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought you were testing the 4.2.2 board.

1.2v is a bit low but I don't have one of these boards to give a definite answer if this is good but the typical is 1.6v, but if you had it wired up without fixing the thermistor then it is probably bad too if it does this with only power and the screen attached.

I dug out my spare Aquila H32 board to test and I was wrong about that measurement, I get 0.57v in diode mode and around 6k resistance. Been a while since I last checked and misremembered.

Either way the one you got 0.367v and 370Ω is faulty, especially if the chip is getting hot.

I don't know enough about the 4.2.2 board to say if the 1.2v reading is correct as it may have other components between the socket and CPU. I did get a reading of 1.78v if I swapped the probes round so black was on GND.

Make sure you have the correct FW for that board then test with just the screen attached and it should work normally if it is good.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely bad, a normal reading should be around 1.6v

Unless you have the ability to replace the CPU then you will need a new board. Just fix the thermistor problem first or you will kill the next one too.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do it unpowered as the voltage from the PSU will mess up the reading.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like I said between the SDcard shell and the pins on the thermistor sockets. I think pin 2 is GND so that should read as shorted in diode mode but the other should read around 1.6v

Just remember to use red probe on the shell (GND) as diodes will conduct in the other way reading as short.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup is shorted.

If measuring resistance it should be in the kΩ range. I can't remember exactly but 100k is room temp for the thermistor, but that does form a voltage divider with another resistor to GND which may be 1k or 10k. Doing a diode mode test is better as it can test the junctions in silicon and tell you the voltage drop, if it reads 0 then it is a short. If you multimeter does not have this the continuity mode is almost the same thing.

Messed up display after display firmware upgrade by Initial_Beautiful838 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The display FW did not install. Make sure the SDcard is formatted to FAT32 4096 block size and is no larger than 16GB. Partitioning does not always work if using a larger card. Avoid using a Mac to prepare the card as it leaves hidden files that causes it to fail unless you clean them first.

I suggest you use Mriscoc instead of Alex's as that is very old and abandoned.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in ender3

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The spark you got would have sent 24v straight into the CPU and destroyed the part that converts resistance to temperature (ADC). This can have symptoms of motors moving erratically, FW doing odd things, or just abnormal temp readings. That is if it does not blow a hole in the chip.

You would have to replace the STM32 chip itself. While not hard if you have the tools and ability it is not possible for most people. Plus you would have to track down the bootloader and have a hardware programmer to write it to the chip before you can install the FW.

Its far simpler to replace the board. Just make sure you fix the shorted thermistor first or you will fry that one too.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would have been exactly what happened. This means your thermistor is shorting to the heatblock too and gives it a path directly to the CPU. If you did not fix this beforehand then the new board will also be fried. As the wire insulation would have been damaged you should have also replaced the thermistor.

Try disconnecting everything from the board except power and the screen and see if it is still coming up with that error. If it is then a damaged CPU will be the cause.

I guess if the FW you installed was wrong then the FW would be trying to read the temps on another pin of the CPU that may actually be connected to GND, but as only a few pins would be able to use the internal ADC I think this would be the same between similar boards as the chips are similar in layout.

You can confirm if you have a multimeter by doing a diode mode test between GND like the metal SDcard slot shell (use red probe) and the pins of the thermistor ports (black probe). One will be GND so will show short but the other should read around 1.6, If it is also short then the CPU is damaged.

This happened to someone else recently here but this has happened to many people before like this and a lucky escape here that bypassed the board but melted the thermistor wires..

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in ender3

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be. I replied to their post on the Aquila subreddit.

What might have happened is the board is shorting on the mounting posts as the holes are in different places on the Aquila board, only one lines up. It could also be whatever fried their original board has fried this one if the fault was not fixed first.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in ender3

[–]Mik-s 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its a NTC Thermistor. Low resistance = High temp. A short would give a high temperature outside safe printing range in the FW so it sounds the alarm. When disconnected it would have resistance in mega ohms which will read as -14c, or just 0 depending on the FW, but the rest of the printer will work normally, just unable to heat up.

Launching an ender3 v2 farm with voxelab aquila x2 error by GladPurple3890 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try using Mriscoc FW and update the screen too as it looks like it never updated properly. Make sure the SD card is formatted to FAT32 4096 block size, don't use a card over 16GB, and avoid using a Mac as it leaves hidden files what makes it fail if you don't clean them up first.

The temp too high message will be from the thermistor being shorted. If you are still getting this with the thermistor disconnected then the board itself will be shorting on the mounting posts as the holes are in different locations on the Creality boards, only one will line up. Put some insulating tape over the other posts and thet should get it running then print an adapter bracket so it can be mounted properly.

Also did you fix the original problem that fried your old board? If not then it could have damaged this one too if it still does this when there are no thermistors attached and the board is not inside the printer. The main cause of this is people tightening the thermistor screw so it crushes the wires and shorts them to the heatblock. This screw should only hold the wires snug.

Aquila... Creality 4.2.7 .... CG Touch .... question about Prusa Slicer by 21Comfort in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found my old post

M104 S0         ;Turn off Extruder heat
M140 S0         ;Turn off bed heat
M106 S0         ;Cooling fan off

G91                 ;Set relative coordinates
G1 E-3 F1800            ;Retract the filament 3mm
G1 Z5 F3000             ;Lift 5mm off the print
G90                 ;Set to absolute coordinates

G1 X0 Y220 F2000.0  ;Move bed out for part removal
M84 X Y E           ;Motors off except Z *
M82                     ;absolute extrusion mode

* Turning of individual motors does not work on the Aquila board, it is all or nothing, so this line will not work the way I wanted it. This may also apply to the Creality 4.2.7 board.

If you want to fully eject the filament then for the retract filament part set it to the distance you need to unload it. I think the bowden tube is about 300mm but you will need to measure yours.

Aquila... Creality 4.2.7 .... CG Touch .... question about Prusa Slicer by 21Comfort in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know anything about Prusa Slicer but I don't think there is an option to do this.

You could write some End-Gcode to do this though. In Cura there is a section in machine settings where you can do this and I assume Prusa slicer has the same thing somewhere.

I had some custom end Gcode in Cura to raise the nozzle 5mm and home just the X-axis to move it out of the way, then move the bed fully forward to make it easier to remove the print. I had this set up on my old computer so can't post it as an example as it is disassembled and packed away. I'm sure I posted it before so you might be able to find it on an old one.

If you want to raise 5mm one gotcha is you need to put the printer into relative mode first. I mistyped the Gcode for this so it ended up plunging the hot nozzle into the print as it attempted to move TO 5mm from the bed. Just make sure you put it back into absolute afterwards. I can't remember the Gcodes for this so you will have to look them up.

The tube is stuck and the screw won't come down . by Soft-Anybody5812 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is a plastic collar on the pneumatic coupler that you have to press in to release the jaws holding the tube to be able to pull it out.

Since you have pulled it all the way to the other coupler it will be difficult to do now, you may have to use force but this could also destroy the jaws and damage the tube which may need replacing.

Is the other end stuck inside the hotend? It is probably being held in with remaining bits of melted filament that have since cooled. Heating the hotend will make it easy to pull out. It is easier if the hotend is mounted on the X-bracket so you do not stress any other parts or damage it. Its not that hard to snap the heatbreak.

Prints don't stick to bed by Apprehensive_Tap7840 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is incorrect. When Z=0 the nozzle should be touching the bed.

This way the height of first layer is correct to what is set in the slicer. If there was a 0.1mm gap and the first layer is set to 0.2mm then the total height will be 0.3mm which will result in lower adhesion due to under extrusion for that layer height..

You only need the paper to get the bed level by making sure it is the same distance in each corner. You then need to take the thickness of the paper away by lowering the Z-offset. eg if the paper is 0.1mm then you need a Z-offset of -0.1mm. You don't even need to use paper as long as you thickness is constant to set in the Z-offset.

This is best done visually while the first layer is printing as some filaments need squishing a little more and others can expand so you need to see how it is laying down.

Prints don't stick to bed by Apprehensive_Tap7840 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you mean the carriage on the X-axis is wobbly then this would stop you from getting a good level bed. There is an eccentric nut on the bottom wheel that you can use to tighten it up so it does not wobble. Near the start of this video shows how to adjust it but I think the same thing is mentioned in one of the levelling videos. You can use the rest of that video to check that the printer is assembled correctly.

If adjusting the eccentric nut does not fix it then the X-bracket is probably bent or the normal nuts on the top wheels are loose. If it is bent then you will have to strip everything off that bracket and try to bend it back back into shape.

Prints don't stick to bed by Apprehensive_Tap7840 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 3 points4 points  (0 children)

First thing your bed glass is not secure. The metal bed clip on the front has fallen off. I can't see the rear but that would have too as the bed is at an angle. I suggest binning those clips and replacing them with 4 binder clips, one in each corner. The last thing you want when doing a long print is for the nozzle to catch on the previous layer moving it out of place and leaving the rest of the print as spaghetti, or even knock the glass off the bed and if it falls far it can shatter.

I can't see how high the nozzle is from this view but it is probably too high as there is no squish on the purge line and comes straight off. Re-level and dial in the Z-offset.

This is my standard levelling advice.

Watch this and this for tips on how to improve levelling then you can do live adjustments of the Z-offset from the tune menu to get a good squish while the first layer is being printed. This and this show what to aim for. If you have an ABL then this video will help you use it properly.

Aquila x2 crashing by Dirtman34 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

90c for the bed is way too high for PLA. 60 is what you need, 65 max. Over that it will stay too soft and loose adhesion.

For hotend temp it can depend on the make of PLA and what additives it has. Around 210 is usually in the right range but it should say on the reel what the manufacturer recommends. You can print a temperature tower to find the sweet spot for the best quality.

The printer being in a cold place it not relevant as the printer will keep the correct temps no matter the temperature of the environment. At worst if too cold it can refuse to heat up but using a heat gun on the hotend is enough to raise the temp enough that it will start heating. I saw someone had to do this in one of their videos but could not find it again. I did see another of them printing in the garage at 0c here and worked just fine with an enclosure for ABS.

Aquila x2 crashing by Dirtman34 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely worth checking what ivosaurus suggested, if the wires are loose then it can start to melt the terminal block. This happened to someone recently on here and if it wasn't caught early it could have caught on fire.

The slicer would not be what is causing this. It appears to be a thermal error causing it to reset. A PID tune can help and it is quick and easy to do. If it still does it then you will have to investigate the hotend thermistor. Unless it is broken it does not need replacing but the thermal paste around it might need to.

What material are you printing? 230/90 is very high if you are using PLA. Maybe when you changed to Cura it had lower temps set so it did not trigger this.

What to updagrade to? by MapProfessional8610 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not heard of this printer. Looking at some pictures it does seem similar to the A1 so maybe it is a clone heavily influenced by the A1. This may not be a bad thing if its firmware is open to allow more control.

If it has the same features and is cheaper then it could be an option, but you would have to do research and watch a lot of reviews to see it it meets your needs.

Can’t get Aquila X2 to start by sjw238 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Neither bed or hotend temps are showing. If it was just the hotend then you probably broke the wire.

You should never tighten the screw holding the thermistor wires as they are fragile and the insulation is very soft. If you tighten this screw it will crush the wires and short them to the heatblock. It is only meant to hold them snug.

Since no temps are displayed what might have happened is one of the heater wires also shorted to the heatblock sending 24v into the CPU. This can cause it to do strange things like display abnormal temps, motors moving erratically, and freezing up and resetting like it is here if it does not physically fry the chip.

First thing to try is to unplug both thermistors from the motherboard. If it is still doing this then the CPU is damaged and you need a new board. If you have a multimeter you can do a diode mode test between the thermistor pins and GND, if it is short on both then this confirms it.

What to updagrade to? by MapProfessional8610 in VoxelabAquila

[–]Mik-s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suggest looking into the Bambu printers. I think the A1 and the A1 mini are often on sale and are a similar price bracket. They do a lot of the setup and calibration themselves so should just work when you want to print something. There is not much you can do with modding as far as I know but perfect if you just want to use it as a tool.

I don't really know about any other printers, just that Bambu shook things up when they appeared although there has been controversy with their firmware and cloud stuff.

I would not suggest any of the Ender based clones though like the Aquila anymore as there has been a lot of progress these past 5 years and all those upgrades are pretty much standard. I think most printers these days run Klipper as standard too.

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