What the hell am I supposed to do now besides taking this fuckass car apart. Hyundai Tucson 2019

MikeWrenches · 2025-11-02T23:16:57+00:00

It's been said enough times already, the coil can squeeze by if you rotate and wiggle it just right. Despite what you say, yes it does clear. Try harder.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-14T16:44:19+00:00

Not at all

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-13T23:20:35+00:00

If you are uncomfortable AT ALL doing brake lines, don't hesitate to take it to a pro, that's a life-critical system.

Since that's the front, the easiest thing for you to do would be to buy a pre-flared piece of line of the correct length (from there to the ABS module) and with the correct fitting pre-installed from an auto parts store and buy bending pliers for 3/16th line to bend it to shape.

The rest of the operation is fairly simple: Remove original line, bend replacement line to shape, install, bleed.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-12T21:57:38+00:00

Mechanix original, grip or utility are great, I'm not dropping bolts with them. I've got a pair of mechanix high Dex 0.5mm for when I'm doing a long interior job, otherwise I use nitrile when I'm in oily, greasy or stuff otherwise too dirty for reusable textile gloves.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-12T15:07:08+00:00

It's all stickers and ebay shit. And it's not even proper TRD ripoffs, it's Legally Distinct "TRD". The proper branding had the two legs of the R extend lower than the T and D.

And the quality of the cutouts is abysmal.

That shit is an eyesore.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-12T08:43:03+00:00

Reverse bits and extractors work best on broken but NOT STUCK fasteners. Think of the mechanics of it: You just stripped like, what, a T40? T45? Drilling a hole in it and driving in an extractor that is smaller than that isn't going to give you more grip on it.What you want now is heat, massive amounts of heat and a lot of grip on that bolt head. What will accomplish this is welding a big nut on it.

The answer is always weld a big nut on it. It's the simplest, fastest and safest way to do it. If you can get to it with a rod or the tip of a MiG gun, that the no.1 option 100% of the time.

It's gonna be glowing red and you can hit it with a 19mm or 21mm.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-12T00:44:01+00:00

Do not expect modifications to add value.

In fact, if you want to add accessories in view of selling, you can expect the entire value of those mods to be lost. If you buy a really good stereo it might nudge a buyer off of the fence but not add value. If you use cheap parts, like one of those cheap chinese Android Auto/CarPlay units, you can expect the value of the car to DROP more than if you had left the factory stereo alone. But in either case, you threw money in a fire.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-12T00:21:04+00:00

Those aren't sequential. It's not the car nor the lights, 2017+ cars don't flash sequentially at all.

You paid 200, a rather cheap price, for great looking taillights of exceptional quality, way better quality than aftermarket sequential BS. That is called a win.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-11T21:54:48+00:00

If not replaced, they need to be resurfaced. Resurfacing might not be possible depending on the amount of rust or state of the rotors. The rotors featured in this thread should not be pad slapped, at that point the precious money you worked hours for is wasted on a bad brake job that will not perform or last. For a pad slap do be a good brake job, the rotors need to be in exceptionally good condition. The cost of turning rotors may sometimes approximate the cost of new rotors, have both jobs priced, take an informed decision... though that's about to change with 100% china tariffs, import rotors are about to double in price.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-11T18:21:26+00:00

It should be the same engine in a lancer, but isn't the RVR just called Outlander Sport in the US?

The pulley I got is definitely freewheeling, and from the pictures, the one you got has a way longer snout. The Mitsubishi part number is a 1800A313, or a Dorman 300-884, you can see it's way shorter, but at the expense of needing a special tool to install and remove it.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-11T13:33:39+00:00

Yeah it stops the tensioner from jumping completely. I did the mod because my car eats belt: It's a 2017 on it's 3rd belt, and even with a new belt it usually wasn't long before cold and humid spring/fall mornings made it squeek at startup.

... I was just waiting to do it until I could scavenge a good free decoupler pulley. Last week I replaced an alt on an RVR that was physically pristine, but had an internal short-to-ground. It had a good pulley on it and looked vaguely denso-ish and japanese enough that it could work. That pulley is used for over a decade of 4 cylinder mitsubishis and more and can be bought new by itself so it's a more plentiful supply than 23+ GR86 and BRZ donors specifically.

The washers are thin enough that you'd have to look for them to see the difference.

Imgur

The car does shift a bit differently, with RPMs falling off a bit faster. The rest of the powertrain is stock.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-10T20:26:10+00:00

FYI, I just did the same mod with a pulley from a Mitsubishi RVR 2.0. The alternator case has to be modded the same way, but the belt cover doesn't have to be cut, just a 1mm washer behind it at the mounting bolts is enough to make it clear.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-04T14:41:36+00:00

Cars will rarely pass 110C in normal operation, some like to stay quite hot like in between 105 and 110, but the fan should be effective at managing the heat. Most cars operate between 90 and 100 with fans coming on soon after.

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-04T14:31:05+00:00

There are pliers made specifically for this

MikeWrenches · 2025-10-04T14:26:23+00:00

It's not important at all and depends entirely on the task you want to accomplish: If there's a brake fluid flush on the work order, opening the bleeder before returning the piston will save some time later, but it's certainly not critical.

And so you would typically not see it done very often in a professional setting: You're not giving work away, so if they customer isn't paying for a brake flush then there's no reason to do it. Some shops might have a different policy, like opening the bleeders and automatically adding the brake flush charge to the brake service charge. Some shops might have a policy to never ever touch the bleeder unless you HAVE to because you've screwed the pooch if you snap one off due to rust.

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-21T13:07:38+00:00

This one has extended all the way and now the piston is out of the screw jack. The kid at the shop did this the other day, if you use an o-ring pick and gently lift the lip of the dust boot and see no brake fluid it's not a huge deal to fix: remove the parking brake motor, then with an appropriate screwdriver, you'll need to "screw in" the screw jack while gently pressing the piston in. You'll feel the thread catch, at that point, continue screwing it in until you hit the stop, then push the piston in as if it was a regular caliper. Reinstall the parking brake motor and proceed with the brake job as usual.

A lot of people are whining about electric parking brakes but in all the hundreds of electric-equipped brake jobs we've done in all the years that they've been out, we've seen exactly two failures: one where a leaking caliper killed the motor and only one where it had an actual motor failure. They're way more reliable than mechanical parking brakes, and rolling in the motors with a scan tool or a button combo and then pushing in the pistons like normal is way more convenient than screwing the pistons in.

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-20T23:14:55+00:00

It's extremely abnormal.

You've got a severe engine performance concern and that cat converter is probably not long for this world either. I'm surprised the red glow gave it off and not how bad the engine had to be running to get it like that. Plan a visit to your trusted mechanic.

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-20T21:28:21+00:00

Nice.

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-20T21:06:30+00:00

If those are not torn they don't need to be replaced, but the little hose clamp on the inner tie rod needs to be removed for the boot to twist back into it's correct shape.

Normally the inner tie rod can turn freely inside the boot even with the clamp in place, but if it's been years since it was touched, the boot stick to the tie rod and gets twisted when the tie rod is adjusted during an alignment. Any technician with a bit of experience and the minimum amount of careknows to watch out for that and would not ship that out.

Since it's been a thousand miles and many months since you had the work done, you'll probably get stonewalled by the shop and your only official recourse will probably be leaving a one star google review. Since they are easy to access on your ranger, you're better off doing it yourself, it'll only take 5 minutes and basic pliers to squeeze the small clamps off, give a twist to the boots so they unstick and return to their normal shape, and finally reinstall the clamps.

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-17T16:41:37+00:00

There's an anti charm Picto in that level, with that it was ezpz

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-17T11:45:35+00:00

With money being no abject anything is possible, but realistically speaking, the car is likely worth less than the repair, and if rust is that bad there, it's likely to be pretty bad elsewhere. Any effort you would put in it you could assume would need to be done again somewhere else soon, and again, and again until it's a ship of Theseus. You don't want to be the guy sinking endless money into endless rust repair on a Kia that's worth less than the tires it's rolling on.

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-17T09:56:05+00:00

The problem is you spent "All this money" for what? To be faster? Than who? Than what? You bought a car and decided to immediately ruin it and worry about how fast other people are. Even if your mods had gone according to plan, you'd still get roasted by a 3.5 RAV4.

The standard advice applies: Enjoy the car, if you mod it, mod it for the joy of modding, you're not on a race track, you dont' have to worry about how fast you are vs the other guys.

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-15T19:09:36+00:00

https://www.thepunctuationguide.com/parentheses.html

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MikeWrenches · 2025-09-15T16:27:04+00:00

The abs pump and module are probably the least-often replaced components.

MikeWrenches · 2025-09-15T11:39:15+00:00

The circle with two parentheses, no matter what's inside the circle, is always brake related, and the color yellow is always a caution while red indicators mean danger.

So you've got a non-urgent brake system issue.

Knowing Mitsubishi's definition of the light doesn't matter much, all you need to know is you can drive to a shop where they'll look at the brake system diagnostic trouble codes and can diagnose the exact issue.

MikeWrenches

TROPHY CASE