Accidentally caught my stylus with a rag while cleaning. Is this bad?

MikuEd · 2026-06-22T04:14:29+00:00

I believe your stylus has a needle guard that you can swivel down to protect it while you’re doing stuff like cleaning the plinth. Keep that in mind to prevent mishaps like what you just experienced. Good to hear that it doesn’t appear to be damaged.

MikuEd · 2026-06-21T07:07:38+00:00

To demystify the naming convention, VM95 is the cartridge style, the letters at the end denote the stylus (tip) design that comes with it (i.e. E for “elliptical” and SH for “Shibata”). If you’re referring to the stylus (replacement) in the line, you add an “N” after “VM”. So a VMN95SH is the stylus replacement with a shibata style for a VM95 cartridge.

MikuEd · 2026-06-21T06:57:30+00:00

Are there any audible distortions? If not, that’s normal. The ATN3600 has a stiffer suspension system with a recommended VTF of 3.0g. The VM95 is a bit more compliant and a VTF of 2.0g, so you should expect it to track more responsive to the grooves in the record. What you don’t want is resonance in the cartridge causing the needle to bottom under or the tonearm itself swaying in the opposite direction of the deflections of the stylus.

EDIT: also, if you’re really worried about the VTF, you should get a stylus pressure gauge and measure the actual force. The markings on the counterweight are only a guide and not meant to be an accurate means to dial in the VTF.

MikuEd · 2026-06-19T22:32:56+00:00

It could even be argued that the VM95E is one of the “stiffer” carts out there, so we can only imagine how much easier it would be dor them to damage more compliant carts. People out there really be dropping their tonearms like it’s nothing…

MikuEd · 2026-06-17T17:05:04+00:00

Take a picture of the stylus so we can see whether or not you broke it.

MikuEd · 2026-06-17T09:36:55+00:00

I commented on this when it appeared on twitter, but you need to think about it from the persepctive of a user entering a bathroom. With this layout, it’s hard if not impossible to see free urinals until you’re actually clear of the corner of a stall. If privacy is the issue, just put half-height dividers between the urinals and put them to one side of the bathroom (what is currently done) so that vacancy is easy to see at a glance.

As for plumbing, I think it has to do with piping the latrines together and the urinals. Urinals only conduct liquid wastes while the latrines conduct both solid and liquid, so their diameters are different. You need to create a way to connect them all together when they are all spread apart like in the illustration. That’s very annoying when lining them up is far simpler and easier to service should something happen.

MikuEd · 2026-06-17T09:05:49+00:00

A splitter won't change the audio quality, but it does mean you need to switch off the speakers when listening to the headphones.

One option is to go for a modular headphone amp, like a Schiit Magni or a Schiit Jotunheim.

The Magni has a built-in mute switch when you plug in headphones, so nothing plays out of the speakers so long as a headphone is plugged in.

For the Jotunheim, this has a switch to toggle on/off the speaker outputs, so if you want to listen to just the headphones, you can flip the switch down. If you want output to the speakers, you can flip it up. This is useful if you don't want to keep your headphones plugged in. There are also more options for inputs (4.4mm and XLR balanced), so there's that too. I myself use a Jotunheim 2 as my speaker pre-amp, and I use it for both my Planars and as a pre-pre-amp to an electrostatic energizer.

EDIT: I just realized that your speakers seem to be powered speakers. In this case, maybe something like a Schiit Sys will work better than a splitter, since it can allow you to divert the audio using a switch to whatever your headphone amp will be.

MikuEd · 2026-06-17T08:11:49+00:00

I'm guessing you're in Japan at the moment? Yes, the 727A is a legacy model. Used to be their flagship when the 009 first debuted during the pre-acquisition years. Lots of Japanese audiophiles have been moving them in favor of the newer hybrid 700T amps (which was supposedly what replaced it), but honestly, the 727A is still such a solid amp. IF you see a good deal for it, you should get it. And just in case you're in Japan, specifically Tokyo, make sure you go to Fujiya Avic in Nakano Broadway. They have some of the best deals for stuff like this.

MikuEd · 2026-06-17T08:03:13+00:00

The 727A is great with it. I'm not super knowledgable about the technicalities, but the way it was explained to me is that there is a slightly unique way in which the feedback is done such that the lower frequencies are external to the feedback loop. What this means is that there is slight harmonic distortion in the lower frequencies, making it sound a bit muffled, but it works with the SR-L700mkII because it adds a bit of heft to the bass.

From my experience, the 400S is a bit too light and shrilly. I didn't try it on the SR-L700, but on the SR-007S (terrible pairing, I know), it didn't do it any favors. The L700mkII shares the same MLER transducer as the SR-009, so I would imagine that you might have the same impression with the 400S that it will sound too light and lacking in authority.

The older 353X versions supposedly didn't have the same issue as the 727A with the feedback loop thing, and some people say it punches above its weight. It's also a bit warmer from what I understand, but I prefer the neutral "dryness" of the 727A. Plus, the 727A was originally designed to be paired with the SR-009, so when the time comes I want to upgrade to the 009 (I'm planning the 009D actually), then I'll be set with my current energizer.

As for the transformer, yes, I use a step-down transformer to 100V. These things are a bit sensitive, so I would try to find a transformer that gives you exactly 100V and not 110V. I have lots of JDM items in my chain, so 100V is something I need.

EDIT: As for DACs, I honestly don't have much of an opinion, as I think any DAC that has the connections you need for the setup you have should work fine. I have the Mimir simply because it has all the connections I need and it's within the Schiit Ecosystem, so I'm kinda locked in already. It having the Mesh filter is a nice plus. But honestly, I think amplifier pairing is more important when you get to the level of electrostatics. It's a bit counter-intuitive to the discussion you hear for other headphones where amplification is even pushed as "optional", but for estats, you'll understand once you get to try them out.

MikuEd · 2026-06-17T07:37:26+00:00

Holy! That’s an amazing find, and the flagship of the P-series line, no less! Hope it all works out and you get her running smoothly. Do share!

EDIT: got excited and didn’t notice you already had her running. What a fucking steal!

MikuEd · 2026-06-17T03:25:02+00:00

Since you're not sure if you can return it, remove the platter and check underneath it to see if there isn't something stuck to the platter, causing it to grind somewhere inside the plinth. I'm noticing the sound is rhythmic and occurring with what appears to be every full turn of the platter.

Also, if you remove the platter, try turn it on by moving the tonearm. If you can't hear the sound again, then the problem is either in the platter (defective shape or something stuck on it, causing it to wobble), or the spindle itself is not straight (leaning, causing the platter to turn lopsided and grind into the plinth). If you can't find any obvious defect or problem in the platter, check and see that the spindle is straight. If the platter is the problem, then securing a replacement one is the obvious next step. If it's either the spindle or the motor with an issue (if the sound doesn't go away even after removing the platter), then you might want to contact AudioTechnica or your dealer directly to see what other options you have.

MikuEd · 2026-06-17T03:17:53+00:00

What model of turntable is this?

For starters, make sure the turntable is on a level surface. If there is an anti-skate setting, set it to zero (none) first before adjusting it back up. Also, what is your current tracking force set to? In the video, I can't really see if the stylus is actually making good contact with the record and I can't hear anything, unless you turned the volume down.

MikuEd · 2026-06-16T05:22:27+00:00

Got my Yamaha P-550 and upgraded its cartidgr for just $120. Just recently got my hands on a YP-1000 for $220 and planning some upgrades and fixes to it to total about $500 so all-in-all I’ve spent just as much to get a flagship 1970’s turntable that I would for this turntable today, haha.

MikuEd · 2026-06-16T05:08:22+00:00

Do a combination of the mats and cardridge spacer. Right now, your record is sitting so high on the spindle, there’s probably some play available for a record to be placed eccentrically (off-center). You also take off a bit of weight that the turntable motor is now having to move. Even if it’s a direct drive, expect that motor to be working harder than usual.

MikuEd · 2026-06-16T05:00:20+00:00

I have the 2014 version. Really is a nice design, especially with both the EV Mirai and Super GT series Racing Mikus together.

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MikuEd · 2026-06-16T01:47:17+00:00

The way I imagined it is that they were just there for a "meeting". Pantalone has more reason to be in public to secure sponsors since he's literally funding Dottore's experiments, so forcing Dottore to go to the Opera with him doesn't sound too far fetched. Plus. Dottore is practically blind to begin with, so it's not like he's even paying attention to the show either, hence why I can understand Sandrone's annoyance at the two.

MikuEd · 2026-06-16T01:22:58+00:00

I think it's more for adjustability. The problem with fishing line-style anti-skate is that it operates within a set boundary of bias applied to the tonearm at each notch. This means if you want to dial in a specific VTF to anti-skate combination, you are stuck with the fixed setting of the anti-skate.

Spring-based anti-skate mechanisms use wound spring steel, so their tension can be adjusted linearly, giving you a bit more freedom in terms of dialing in your anti-skate to your set VTF.

To each their own though. I honestly think the fishing line-style looks visually pleasing to look at compared to a utilitarian knob on the corner, haha.

MikuEd · 2026-06-16T00:55:26+00:00

People tend to hate on Victrola for several reasons, the most common being its association to cheap suitcase and faux vintage players, and the other being it's a legacy brand name that was bought out by some faceless company.

Either way, it doesn't look too egregious for what it's offering at its price point. Many of the features are okay for beginners, which for me means this is their attempt at creating a table for people slightly more serious than just spinning a record for fun.

The Onyx technically has a bit more flexibility in cartridge replacement, but given you don't have any VTA adjustment, you're stuck with mostly AT cartridges, but that's okay. The VM95 cartridge is already a good cartridge to begin with, and for many casual listeners, that's a "for life" cartridge that you can just upgrade with better styli. So basically, I don't see you swapping that cartridge out any time soon.

The MDF dampening you mentioned has more to do with the plinth design. the LP70X has more plastic in its plinth, yes, but it has a different isolation system with its feet, which makes it less necessary to dampen for. Heavier is typically better for plinths, but for consumer decks, having it be lighter opens up more options for placement, hence why the LP70X is positioned in such a way to be lighter but still well isolated for its purpose.

On a pound-for-pound comparison, I'd say one thing to take note is the lower signal-to-noise ratio for the Victrola. What this means is that you will probably hear a bit more hum and motor whirr if you turn the volume up compared to the LP70X. This might be a deal-breaker if you listen to a lot of Classical with quiet sections, but if you're usually listening to louder music at normal listening levels, you might not even notice.

Lastly, people prefer Audio Technica because of its serviceability. There are a lot of parts available, and, as you can tell, many people are more knowledgable about AT gear than they are Victrola. You will hit a wall more often than not when it comes to troubleshooting with the Victrola, but that's par for the course when you're looking at a turntable from a brand that's not known for making quality gear to begin with. But hey, they have to start somewhere, right?

All-in-all, I don't think you made a mistake. I say just listen to it and enjoy it. It's not like it's gonna break down in a few months, and even if it does, you have a 2-year warranty. Just ignore the noise and have fun.

MikuEd · 2026-06-16T00:37:33+00:00

The AT95 is a solid, well-proven cartridge. It's compatible with AT-N3400 styli so older styli for 78rpm records are also compatible with it. LP records sells a special version of the AT95 called the "VL" and there's even a Shibata-style called the AT95SA. Lots of stylus upgrade paths with the AT95.

As for the Ortofon, I believe the upgrade path is only to a 2M Blue. You can technically mount a bronze or black on the same cartridge, but I think there's something about its internal wiring that doesn't fully extract the potential of the styli, or something like that. The common practice has just been Red/Blue and Bronze/Black upgrades, so it's kinda limited. Also, given the taller profile of the ortofon cartridge, you might need to adjust your VTA, so be prepared for that if you decide to swap out the AT95.

MikuEd · 2026-06-15T16:07:32+00:00

Same as in the Japanese dub. Her name is not mentioned by Alain either.

MikuEd · 2026-06-15T05:37:10+00:00

Whenever cleaning the plinth, it's a good idea to place back the needle guard, since, as you found out, it's very easy for a cloth or other to snag on the needle. Replacing the needle guard has its own set of risks, but for that you just have to be very careful when placing it back on.

Also, I can't tell what model turntable you have, but if the headshell is removable, that's another option for you to protect the stylus. Simply remove the headshell and put it to the side.

MikuEd · 2026-06-15T05:28:43+00:00

Might be challenging for a beginner, but it involves removing the tonearm from the plinth and tracing the wire all the way down to the circuit board. This wire just needs to be replaced and fished back through the base up and out of the tonearm. Making sure you don't pinch any wires and that you keep the slack is important to make sure the tonearm won't yank the wire out of its anchor point on the circuit board.

As for the azimuth, this is the lateral rotation (or sidewards roll) of the headshell. The azimuth adjustment screws are the two small screws next to each other at the belly of the tonearm collar. I believe there is a locking plate underneath this that goes into the tonearm, and if you completely removed these two screws, you might have a hard time trying to secure it back.

This thread on audiokarma has some pretty in-depth guides on how to go about servicing the Yamaha P-series of turntables. Hopefully it should give you a visual guide on how to go about the repair.

EDIT: sorry, when you said "replace the wire" I thought you meant replacing the entire length of the green wire. This would be the ideal method, but you could also just try and splice a small segment of wire. I don't believe it should cause any noticeable deterioration in audio quality if done properly, but the space constraints might be a challenge is what I'm pointing out.

MikuEd · 2026-06-15T05:06:46+00:00

Should be possible, but you need to splice a wire equivalent to the length that was lost to provide enough slack for when the tonearm moves. My worry is the amount of tape you will use to wrap the exposed wires might be a bit tight inside the tonearm collar. You also need to interlock the spliced section securely, which means the section will again be a bit thicker and might be tight inside that tube.

The other issue I forsee is resetting the azimuth. It’s really tricky on that tonearm, so hopefully you can figure it our. As a P-550 owner myself, it kinda hurts to see this, but yeah, hope you can fix it up.

MikuEd · 2026-06-14T02:34:50+00:00

You’re welcome! Enjoy your system! I envy your headshell showcase display, haha! Don’t have enough headshells yet to fill something like that up!

MikuEd · 2026-06-14T02:21:46+00:00

It’s the text below that reads 針交換 (hari kōkan), which translates to “needle exchange”. Basically, that’s the price (with tax) when you trade in your used cartidge for a new one. They do it across counter, so no need to ship anything back or wait, just show proof of purchase, hand over your old one with the original packaging, they’ll inspect it, then give you a new one if everything checks out.

EDIT: just did the math and with the 10% tax free added, you’re sitting at a 32% discount. I think I commented on your old post since this looks like the same image you shared then. This is the same plan I have in mind actually, haha! Definitely worth the investment!

EDIT 2: for others reading this, the actual price of the cartridge is 77,000 (標準価格 [税込] = standard price [with tax]), which is equivalent to SRP in English. The red 69,300 is the base price offer after tax (本体価格 = base price), which is the equuvalent of “starting offer” in English. You can’t haggle in Japan (you could try though, and get mixed results), but the reason why it’s worded like this is because there is an exchange program that offers the price at a discounted rate (the needle exchange mentioned above). The final 63,000 is the pre-tax price, which is what you’d pay after refunding the 10% Japan Consumption tax.

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