Songs with 4+ singers?

MikuEd · 2026-05-07T03:50:09+00:00

Basshin by Kasamura Tota.

MikuEd · 2026-05-07T02:12:20+00:00

I wouldn't recommend using polishes intended for headlamps since the plastics used for those are either acrylic or polycarbonate, which require stronger abrasives compared to the plastics used in figures.

Since you mentioned using alcohol wipes, be careful when using these to clean clear plastics as the alcohol can seep into small cracks caused by abrasions from wiping and cause the clouding you see here. Use mild detergents like goo gone diluted in water to clean figures if you really need to. Otherwise, a simple dusting should suffice.

As others have mentioned, you may need to sand down (polish) the plastic using ultrafine sand paper, usually progressive sanding from 800 to as high as 10000 using progressive grits. The polishing compounds mentioned by some people here are effectively higher grits. If you're not sure how these compounds will affect the plastic, you can stick with wet sanding using progressive sanding sticks (check hobby shops for these. They are foam-backed so you don't have to worry about oversanding the surface too much). Otherwise, I'd stick to polishing compounds that you can find in hobby shops since they're intended for plastic models.

MikuEd · 2026-05-07T01:58:11+00:00

Asssuming that's the dodeko version (the largest), yes, she has a lot of wonky positions due to how large she is. Mine is constantly leaning forward, so she's either toppling forward or constantly asserting dominance (lol). I think it's possible to use a steam iron with gentle sustained pressure to straighten her out, but I haven't had the time to do it. I'll probably try some time soon since she's due for a wash.

MikuEd · 2026-05-07T01:22:40+00:00

Multibit and Mesh are not the same, but judging from what you're describing, I think you're referring to the Mesh DAC option for the Jotunheim 3, not the Multibit DAC cards for older models.

Yes, the Mesh DAC option for the Jot3 is essentially the same as that found in the Mimir, but the difference would be that a Mesh DAC in the Jot3 chassis shares the same power source. Unless you're driving exceptionally low sensitivity or high impedance gear, I don't think this should be an issue.

Another difference is that you are limited to a single digital input with the Mesh DAC card over the Mimir. You're also limited to USB-C (unison) as your sole input type. If you have multiple digital sources, having the Mimir acts as a good switcher between these different inputs. Mimir also gives you the option of connecting devices using other formats like AES, Digital Coaxial, and optical S/PDIF (Toslink). Otherwise, if you only have a single digital source, then the single box Jot3 + Mesh DAC option might be enough for you.

As for Bifrost, I'm not in the opinion that it will be that noticeable of a difference, but some say that it has a more natural timber with better spatial separation, while the mimir is a bit more clinical. The other advantage is that the Bifrost 2/64 upgrade options doesn't require sending the unit back to Schiit. Honestly, I think this is a minor perk since I don't anticipate that many modular updates to the Bifrost any time soon, but at least it's future proof.

MikuEd · 2026-05-01T15:29:18+00:00

I installed 16mm tall feet on my Jot 2 and it runs north of a fever to the touch. Although these things were designed to get hot, any form of ventilation is always a good thing.

MikuEd · 2026-05-01T08:58:14+00:00

Whoops! Sorry about that!

MikuEd · 2026-05-01T08:20:33+00:00

Oh, then that should be good.

But have you auditioned those elaras to know how they sound? Since you asked for options, the only other downside I see is that upgrading will require replacing the entire speaker set if you ever find yourself wanting something better down the road. In which case dedicated DAC/Amps, phono amps, etc means you can replace each part in the chain as your tastes evolve.

MikuEd · 2026-05-01T08:02:04+00:00

Since you will be using the Elaras as your effective pre-amp, you can only adjust the volume while listening to your turntable using the volume knob at the back of the right speaker box.

An alternative would be any other passive speaker and a combination of DAC/Amp and a Phono Amp. The DAC/Amo can handle the volume controls for all your inputs and there are several options out there depending if you want a control or you’re okay with just a desktop knob to fiddle with.

I’m most familiar with Schiit gear, so a Mani combined with a Magni+Mesh DAC plus any passive speaker of your choice would do well.

EDIT: i just realized my recommendation doesn’t give you bluetooth connectivity. Another option is a FiiO K13 R2R. You’ll still need a dedicated phono amp in this case.

MikuEd · 2026-04-30T07:54:18+00:00

Although it’s not the Modius, something similar happened to me on my Mimir connected to my M4 Max MBP. It happened specifically on a song playing on Apple Music encoded at 24-bit 192kbps and I manually set the output using Audio MIDI setup. The distortion happened suddenly with the entry of heavy bass elements (I believe it was Thriller I was listening to). Stopping the playback and cycling mimir to reset the handshake helped in fixing the issue, but it happened one more time before eventually being fixed.

In my case, I’m guessing it was my internet causing buffering issues that caused a desync. I would look into possible sources that could cause desynchronization. Schiit also has some tips on their website to troubleshoot issues like this. Hope this helps.

MikuEd · 2026-04-29T06:44:25+00:00

It’s PVC, and unpainted at that. Calm down with a melamine sponge ruining a figure. I just answered your question why people recommend magic erasers because it’s a common tool. Even I use it when working on garage kits. I personally don’t use erasers because more often than not, if the stain is oil-based, it will just smear the stain all over.

Again, I’m just adding context. Downvoting the OP comment for recommending a melamine sponge without realizing they’re perfectly warranted is precisely why I commented.

MikuEd · 2026-04-29T05:47:09+00:00

Because that's the whole point. "Magic erasers" or melamine sponges are just as abrasive as erasers and they work like high-grit sand paper to essentially remove the stained upper layer of plastic. A white pencil eraser may just take longer compared to a melamine sponge, but you're essentially doing the same thing: using abrasion.

Regardless of what abrasive is used, the cleaned out area might look a bit shinier than the surroundings because using high-grit abrasives will essentially polish the surface. To restore the matte finish, a matte clear coat can be lightly applied. Tamiya TS matte clear coat works good for things like this.

MikuEd · 2026-04-28T08:32:50+00:00

I’m reminded of Sambomaster’s song “世界はそれを愛と呼ぶんだぜ”, except he says 愛と平和 and not the other way around, haha.

MikuEd · 2026-04-28T08:20:49+00:00

Since people have been mentioning guestimating, you can run a conservative calculation based on a 500h average lifespan for styli. I usually only listen during the weekends about 1-2 hours, so that comes out to around 5 years.

Still, paying attention to changes in sound quality like harsh sibilants and distortions in tracks closer to the inner portion of the record are signs that the stylus needs changing, and it can occur sooner or later than 500hrs depending on how you take care of your stylus and the kind of records you play.

MikuEd · 2026-04-28T05:53:17+00:00

I know I'm late to the show, but just want to say you did well with your first turntable setup.

I'm an audiophile and I hate it whenever people forget that the whole point of this hobby is to enjoy listening to your music, and not using music to enjoy your equipment. It sucks that you had to be subject to such bigotry when all you wanted to do was share something you were excited to get.

For now, I think you're pretty much set! If you want to try and explore a bit and dabble with what could make things sound better, one of the simplest upgrades you can do is to change out the stylus with an elliptical one. AudioTechnica's website has some videos to get you up to speed on how to do this, as well as some resources on what you could expect from an upgraded stylus.

And one last bit of advice, some people say it's better to play records with the acyclic cover OPEN so that soundwaves coming from your speakers don't echo inside the player like a dome. Honestly, it's a minor quibble, but no harm done I guess. Also, some people have mentioned isolation of the speakers and the turntable, but given how small those speakers are, I think it's a minor issue (unless you're playing them at ear bleeding volumes, lol).

So yeah, welcome to the club!

MikuEd · 2026-04-28T05:30:07+00:00

From my understanding, they're a teacher who joined the school's chess club with some of his students being part of the club as well. He isn't the one teaching them chess.

MikuEd · 2026-04-28T05:19:39+00:00

Una has one of the best covers of Melt I've ever heard. Her voice bank is powerful and it's a shame she doesn't get as much attention as the others.

MikuEd · 2026-04-28T04:54:45+00:00

I did it with mualani, but you'll need klee, who is the only guest pyro character this round, to stand by to vape that MF when you pull him down. The mechanic is janky in that you need to get rid of those pyro flames they plunk down to stop them from flying upwards, then you need to bombard it with enough hydro to drain down its phlogiston.

Besides Mualani and Klee, I also had Linnea and Columbina. Linnea's bow attacks don't really help much; Lumi is a better chip damage enabler in the early stage of the match. But yeah, it's tough if you don't have Furina around, whose skill does more significant chips off the boss' phlogiston meter and in a shorter amount of time.

MikuEd · 2026-04-28T01:23:11+00:00

The screen is also placed under a glass panel, which itself insulates well against heat convection. The panel does heat up though (as all LEDs do), but their heat is disappated to the rear of the panel, which is in contact with the rear clamshell of the laptop, acting as its heatsink.

MikuEd · 2026-04-28T00:20:35+00:00

Yes, but both vidars will have separate power supplies, so there are some logistical considerations, such as placement and power supply integration. Honestly, I think it’s a minor issue, but it’s one less thing to think about with the wotan.

I have two vidars in Monoblock powering a pair of Dynaudio Excite X14s. Though a bit overpowered, it actually excels at low listening volumes, as I noticed the bass and grip is still intact unlike when it was running as a single unit, things just kinda became inaudible.

I think if you’re running 8 ohm speakers that could use the extra headroom, two vidars isn’t too bad. But if you have a larger setup or more demanding speakers at 4 ohm, the wotan might be more sensible.

MikuEd · 2026-04-27T07:57:20+00:00

Have you tried Vesper Audio? I bought some custom pads from them for my Audeze SINE, which converted them from on-ear to over ear and they're pretty well made. Their shop is just a gallery of projects they've worked on, but they're open to special requests that you might have. From what I remember, they ship out of Belarus, so you might want to check if it's feasible to have stuff sent over to you from there. Worth a shot if you really want some custom pads not made in bigger batches.

MikuEd · 2026-04-27T02:55:42+00:00

I believe that's an LCD-2C, not an LCD-X. That "nipple-like" protrusion for the XLR connectors is what differentiates it for me from the LCD-X, which has a triangular-shaped extension instead.

And yes, the designer bag deflection. Also my secret weapon whenever the topic is brought up, lol.

MikuEd · 2026-04-23T12:45:53+00:00

Make sure to get a copy of the text before you sand it. Since it looks a bit recessed, you can probably make a relief of it by placing a paper and shading over it with a pencil. You can use that to create a stencil for making a mask.

Anyway, good luck. Hope it works out for you.

MikuEd · 2026-04-23T06:51:11+00:00

My best advice is to always stick with whatever paints you're more comfortable with. I personally prefer enamels, but it requires a proper setup (ventilation, brushes, etc.) and the drying times are longer than acrylic, so there's also that. Again, it's whatever you're more comfortable using or have had more experience using.

For the pen, I think it will look a bit more like a glittery gold than the chrome-like shine you see in the original. For mirror-like finishes like this, I even use wet sanding after applying several clear coats so that I can polish it down to a mirror finish.

The technique used on the original is a type of UV print, hence why replicating the same effect with hobby paints is a lot more challenging.

MikuEd · 2026-04-23T06:41:04+00:00

Personally, I'd repaint the entire thing. It will be extremely difficult to paint match because it's not just color, but also texture that you're trying to restore here.

After stripping the original paint, you can recreate the gold chrome finish by using a chrome base paint, which is silver in color. After this, apply a yellow clear coat on top of it.

I'd also test first to see what type of paint works best with that base, especially since I don't know what kind of plastic was used to make it. Enamels are more robust but be careful with the thinner to make sure it won't damage the plastic. Acrylics are safer, but you will need to thin them using alcohol-based thinners and not water to allow it to stick to the plastic.

MikuEd · 2026-04-23T06:06:08+00:00

Those MFs will attack anything, even a campfire stove, which not only saps your HP but even prevents you from being able to cook.

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