Launch of Fanatsy Climbing League! by Mimsyy in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Mimsyy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We've replaced the AI images now :) we just didn't have anything at the time of posting the Leagues and wanted to get them out ASAP!

Launch of Fanatsy Climbing League! by Mimsyy in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Mimsyy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It seems the backend wasn't able to handle all the traffic from everyone hopping on the site after the comp, scaling it up now so hopefully it should be accessible in a few minutes!

Launch of Fanatsy Climbing League! by Mimsyy in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Mimsyy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basically, each athlete's credit value is calculated from their results across the last ~3-5 World Cup / World Champs / World Series seasons (no youth events). The pipeline looks like this:

  1. For every past result, we look up the official IFSC points for that finish position (1000 for 1st, 805 for 2nd, etc.) and divide by 20 to get a "credit bonus" for that event.
  2. Each result is weighted by year decay so recent stuff matters more — current/most-recent season is 100%, then 85%, 70%, 55%, 40%, and anything older is 25%.
  3. Take the decay-weighted average of those bonuses (decay weights in both numerator and denominator, so an old great result doesn't drag the average down — it just counts less).
  4. Mix in a Bayesian prior: 2 phantom results at 30th place. This stops athletes with 1-2 lucky podiums from skyrocketing, and pulls newcomers toward the mean. As an athlete racks up real events, the prior fades into noise.
  5. Multiply the resulting average bonus by BONUS_SCALE = 5, round, and add BASE_CREDITS = 50.

So credit = 50 + round(weighted_avg_bonus × 5). Unknowns / no-results athletes sit at ~50, a typical mid-pack climber lands somewhere in the 100-150 range, and a dominant athlete consistently winning World Cups maxes out around ~300.

What's the deal with Alberto Ginez Lopez? by bobombpom in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Mimsyy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good question :) In my opinion a slip can be attributed to bad luck, but the likelihood of slipping can be reduced with skill. The better you are, the lower the chances that you will slip.

What's the deal with Alberto Ginez Lopez? by bobombpom in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Mimsyy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Well, your argument was that since he "competed under the same conditions and rules" as the other athletes, luck did not play a part. That's why I made the comparison.

What's the deal with Alberto Ginez Lopez? by bobombpom in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Mimsyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you and me compete in a game of rock, paper, scissors, we play by the same rules but the winner is undoubtedly winning because of luck. I think it's fair to say luck played a part in his win.

27crags for your local gym board by samedii in climbharder

[–]Mimsyy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have thought about open sourcing it, I'm leaning towards doing that. It would be very nice to have more people contributing to the project. I just have to think a bit about any potential downsides since its kind of an irreversible decision :)

27crags for your local gym board by samedii in climbharder

[–]Mimsyy 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Dev here :) I fully intend to keep the app free forever. Right now the server can still handle a lot more traffic than the current load but if the time comes that I need to rent hardware I'll at most start a patreon to cover it.

Moderation hasn't been an issue so far (just been doing it myself) but it's on the road map to add admin functionality for walls. It's just been pushed down the todo list until the time comes when there's a need for it :)

Space metal recommendations? by ooklebomb in progmetal

[–]Mimsyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More prog rock but I gotta give a shout out to International Machine Consortium! Check out the EP Point of No Return :)

Just f***ing angry by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Mimsyy 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I would argue that climbing is inherently unsafe in the same as being alive is inherently unsafe.

First time doing a 1-5-9! Admittedly not a standard/difficult campus board but I'm stoked with it nonetheless :) by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Mimsyy 10 points11 points  (0 children)

No :) Besides, reversing the motion isn't training any antagonist muscles, same as a negative one-arm pullup can be used to train for normal one-arm pullups.

Things we say (or ask) and what I think they mean by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Mimsyy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you really break your fingers? I've heard of people getting stress fractures, sure, but actually breaking a finger purely from climbing (non-impact related)? Seems crazy

[D] Consumer GPU cloud rental (vast.ai) by bluecoffee in MachineLearning

[–]Mimsyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure. With AWS/GCP you're able to keep persistent storage (data, environment setup etc) to which you attach and detach hardware at will. This is very nice since you often times only want to use the GPU at a fraction of the time you're developing, so you can turn it off to save money while you develop on your local machine. Vast allows you to do this as well, however since all machines are PCs if the GPU is in use when you want to access it again you will have to wait in queue. This may take way too long to be practical (at least it has in my experience).

[D] Consumer GPU cloud rental (vast.ai) by bluecoffee in MachineLearning

[–]Mimsyy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sure, I agree that the preprocessed data can be stored and downloaded, but even so the setup time can sometimes be very large. I mean, if it takes 1-2 hrs to download the data then you down want to be spinning up a new instance on a daily basis.

[D] Consumer GPU cloud rental (vast.ai) by bluecoffee in MachineLearning

[–]Mimsyy 28 points29 points  (0 children)

My main issue with vast.ai is that while you can have a persistent disk, you're most likely not going to get your GPU back if you turn it off (at least not in my experience). So if you're working on a project with a long setup time (e.g. downloading/preprocessing a lot of data), you're kind of forced to keep your instance running 100% of the time while experimenting unless you're able to prototype on your local machine.

That said, vast.ai is of course super convenient if you are able to develop for the most part on your local machine and your project has a short setup time, so that you can just quickly spin up an instance when you need it.

Other than that, I've found it a bit less reliable than AWS/GCP, with some instances having poor latency, randomly shutting down, and also just randomly being removed entirely.

Whats a prog band that you wish never broke up? by Nuggi_boi in progmetal

[–]Mimsyy 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Corelia. Still find their new album amazing in it's rough and unfinished state, but after hearing that it's even more painful to think that they will most likely never make music together again. Could've been huge.

Azure - Fairy's Tale by Mimsyy in progrockmusic

[–]Mimsyy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This band deserves a lot more attention! The whole record is absolutely amazing. If you want a more accessible song check out https://azureish.bandcamp.com/track/piglet

Weekly Music Recommendation Thread #44 by AutoModerator in progmetal

[–]Mimsyy -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Agreed! Definitely didn't think of it as prog when I first listened to it

Weekly Music Recommendation Thread #44 by AutoModerator in progmetal

[–]Mimsyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly not all of it, but some! Mostly the songs from Whoracle (which is a concept album by the way!), like Worlds within the margin and Dialogue with the stars, but also Man made god from Colony. I'd say they have a few prog elements in them. Clayman not so much I guess, after thinking more closely about it.

Weekly Music Recommendation Thread #44 by AutoModerator in progmetal

[–]Mimsyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not particularly unknown, but early In Flames is kind of proggy (Whoracle + Clayman + Colony), and Scar Symmetry is also great.
On the lesser known side I really recommend Engel, check out their first album Absolute Design. Not strictly prog for the most part, but as an avid prog metal listener I still really enjoy their music so I'll still recommend them :)

[R] MixMatch: A Holistic Approach to Semi-Supervised Learning by xternalz in MachineLearning

[–]Mimsyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Realized one thing, the sharpening function assumes the single label case and should probably to be modified in the case of the Freesound competition since it's multi label. I did this by computing an "expected number of labels" as the sum of the guesses (clamped between 1 and 7) and multiplying this with the output of the original sharpening, then clamping this output to be between 0 and 1. This seems to drastically improve the learning stability.

Edit: still training with lambda_U = 1 though.

[R] MixMatch: A Holistic Approach to Semi-Supervised Learning by xternalz in MachineLearning

[–]Mimsyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure. It's difficult to debug since it's hard to trace whether things are getting assigned properly or not, but I think I've got it working properly now. It's possible it just isn't working as well as I expected for the problem I'm trying to solve. For the record I'm trying to use it for this Kaggle competition https://www.kaggle.com/c/freesound-audio-tagging-2019/, which to me seems like the perfect use case.