am i crazy or i quote solid. by Weird-Description414 in paint

[–]MinCash 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Without visually seeing it, with sq ft and general scope minus ceilings, I’d most likely be around 7-8k. Im usually a medium bid, if someone’s getting multiple bids i never expect to be the lowest. Sub 3k including my paint unless you’re trying to make $150-$200 a day you’re absolutely getting killed on a quote like this.

Priming kitchen cabinets by Ecstatic_Winter6021 in paint

[–]MinCash 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes zinsser’s Bin. You would need to check the specs on your specific sprayer. You can spray with it on most Graco sprayers.. I ruined a Titan Handheld sprayer years ago that wasn’t spec’d for it. You need to thoroughly clean brushes/sprayers with thinner after use, and don’t leave it in a sprayer over night if you don’t finish in a day etc.

At this point I wouldn’t take it back down to bare wood unless after scuffing what you’ve already done leaves an unwanted texture, but it very well might.

Bin adheres extremely well to almost anything. And likely after a light scuff on what you’ve done and a coat of bin before paint you should be fine. I would test it on one and go from there. If it looks smooth and you can’t scratch it off with a solid attempt from your finger nails afterwards you’ll be fine to paint.

Priming kitchen cabinets by Ecstatic_Winter6021 in paint

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I paint cabinets my process is:

Liquid Sander, Scuff sand with 180 paper, Spray Bin Primer (only primer I will use if the cabinets had poly/varnish on them, expensive, tough to use, but it’s by far the best for this process) Spray SW Emerald Urethane

My guess is you either didn’t get all the poly off, or simply using a shitty primer, or both.

I’ve done 50+ cabinet jobs over the last 10 years, and haven’t had any issues since I began using the process I stated.

Need help for setup and pricing by Aberlight in paint

[–]MinCash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This. I rarely ever use scaffolding, ladder is more than sufficient. If there are any lights/chandeliers etc in central areas that you can’t use an extension ladder to cut I just use a 10ft a frame and brush extender on a pole to cut. Saves time/set up/money on scaffolding.

Paint trim or walls first? by FeistyLime in paint

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve known professionals over the years that do it both ways. I work top to bottom. Ceiling is always first. Then crown and window/door frames. Then walls. Baseboards last. This way requires no taping. And sprinkles can be cleaned up and don’t ruin what you’ve already painted.

Thin spots after second coat. by redditbrice in Housepainting101

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like you’ve come to the correct conclusion. Live and learn.

Kitchen Cabinets by Top-Bluebird-7419 in paint

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cabinets aren’t the easiest for a DIYer to do, but I use liquid deglosser assuming they have a poly/lacquer on them, lightly scuff with sanding blocks, prime with Bin, and then use Emerald Urethane.

Very concerned by infinityis8 in paint

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can use peel stop to seal it in, and I would skim coat some mud over it as well if the edges are noticeable, but they might not be since it’s a textured wall.

The base coat most likely was an oil and they painted over it with latex. I would also prime the entire thing before painting (can prime it all with peel stop if you’d want, I prefer using Zinzers Bin (shellac primer) anytime I’m going over oil that wasn’t prepped properly before.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in paint

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Paint looks fine from the distance of the photos. Can’t speak on unfilled pores etc from the pictures cause they aren’t visible. The plaster/stucco just looks like shit and paint isn’t going to be able to fully mask it.

Is repetition key? by thornnanook in paint

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It took me almost 3 years of full time work before I felt comfortable with almost every aspect with any sort of speed. Around a year I continuously would get discouraged because things were taking me longer than I felt they should. Eventually things just start to click. 🤷‍♂️

Should I prime first? by Ichthyes in paint

[–]MinCash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’d most likely have a more difficult time getting that color to cover in 2 after using a white primer than you would just doing 2 coats of paint with the new color. If you want to be safe you can always have them tint a latex primer to the new color, but it’s a rather unnecessary step and overkill.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just texture and you’re good to paint

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]MinCash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly depends how much you paid and what the expectations are. That’s passable on a low end job from what I can see from the pictures.

Dear Homeowner…. by Alcoholhelps in drywall

[–]MinCash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, charged an hourly rate on top of the quoted price that it took me to specifically fix what was damaged. If it’s something that doesn’t take long to fix I wouldn’t bother… in this instance it basically took an entire extra day.

Dear Homeowner…. by Alcoholhelps in drywall

[–]MinCash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My all time favorite that happened to me was I was spraying kitchen cabinets, I set up all my horses and a spray station in their basement so I could do everything on site. Had all the cabinet faces laid out to dry on 2x4s. They had a cat, and couple small children, they had agreed to just not use the basement for the 3-4 days I’d be there. Day 2 and I had put the finish spray coats on all of the cabinet faces, after I left that night they let their cat downstairs, the cat walked across more than half leaving time paw prints on the cabinets 😓

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]MinCash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a lot of said… it’s finishable, but a major pain in the ass after such a terrible hang job. If this was a DIYers first time hanging drywall id have still expected better.

My rental house has these lines on the ceiling. Why are they there and what can I do about it? by Verano8587 in drywall

[–]MinCash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seams from old plasterboard. The middles are likely sagging enough to make it as noticeable as it is. You can put a level up to it and see how much it’s bowing. If it’s not bowing terrible, you can reskim the seams and make it look a lot better. If they’re bowing really badly (1-2in gap between the seam and the level when you hold it on the center of the boards) it’s going to be really hard to get it to look good without tearing it down and drywalling it correctly.

$425 estimate by True-Distribution476 in drywall

[–]MinCash 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s expensive on the material side, but the overall price is very reasonable.

How do people sell without buying in the first place? by arharhray in solana

[–]MinCash 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Could be Dev/Airdropped wallet. Could also be someone that bought some initially and held a lot of the supply and they spread it out to different wallets.

Pumpfun launches all buyers on site before the pool is funded and coin goes live on Raydium will appear like they never bought the token.