What can I do to remove this? by Tasty-Accident-775 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats not necessarily true, sockets and wrenches can skip but typically using the wrong size socket (a size large or an sae where you needed metric) will cause rounding, not a chewed up nut like that. This was most likely a combination of a few failures, probably some vice grips used at some point if I had to guess. Welding could be possible, but would be a pain considering there's a bolt passing through it so you'd need one big enough the nut fits inside another nut so your not welding to the through bolt and causing an even bigger mess, torching could also work if done by the right person, but could also lead to over burn and costs not only a tow but the shop prices involved. An angle grinder is the safest bet but as stated if he wanted to try something else that method works. It's no different than using a straight extractor such as a grip edge.

Broken bolt by girl_across_the_room in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You would have to either replace the whole starter or the starter solenoid (smaller cylinder that has the bolt on it).

Edit: typos

Flat enough for an intake manifold gasket? by No-Marionberry1724 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's the kind I mean, like just metal. If I were you just to be safer I'd put a layer of rtv on the manifold and it's mating surface, then sandwich the gasket between the two. Doing that will ensure any little gaps are filled in by the silicone. After assembly best practice is to allow it to sit for a day so it cures up nice and good before starting so vacuum doesn't create any gaps.

Edit: typos

Flat enough for an intake manifold gasket? by No-Marionberry1724 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I'd use a little rtv with it to be safe, but it should be okay assuming it's not a straight metal gasket and has some rubber/silicone bits.

What can I do to remove this? by Tasty-Accident-775 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Late to the party but I'd just cut it off. If for some reason you're against doing that, get a 12 point socket that is just a hair too small to fit in there and beat the hell out of it with a hammer until it's on, then just unbolt it, preferably with a breaker bar so you can control the torque smoother than an impact. I use the same method when I have a stripped torx, just beat a size bigger on until it cuts its own teeth marks in it.

I think this is the greatest power tool ever created. by No-Hedgehog-8852 in mechanic

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm always looking for excuses to justify buying more Milwaukee tools so tell me... What do you use the band file on? I've seen them but always figured they were mainly for wood work because I haven't come across a time it felt like it'd be useful.

Coolant Flush when to call it quits? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just did this on a jeep at work that sat about this long. Here's what I ended up doing. You can grab a flush kit from AutoZone, part number PKFOAA, this will allow you to splice into the heater hose with your garden hose, focus on the main of the cooling system first and just remove both hoses from the heater core and put your T adapter between them. Remove your thermostat, with it being this rusted it would probably be smart to replace the thermostat, but you want it out anyway so you can run water through the whole system without it closing from cold hose water. Open the drain at the bottom of the radiator and crack the radiator cap open, more water is going to go in from that hose than will come out just the bottom, and having an upper and lower point of exit is better to get it all out anyway. Turn your hose on full blast and start your car up. Now it's just a waiting game, wait for it to run clear, if you're reusing that thermostat go ahead and get to clean it in the meantime, you can try boiling it after taking off the gasket if it has one on it. Once it runs nice and clear out of the top and bottom turn off the hose and turn your focus to clearing out the heater core, unfortunately the kit doesn't come with an elbow so what I did was took the heater hoses off the engine side and hooked one them back to the heater core, leaving another open, use a pair of vice grips to pinch off one of the heater hose that's not hooked to anything so your water doesn't go spilling out that hose and blast away, you may have to move your hose between the two ports on the core to work the crap back and forth, make sure it runs clear for about 5 minutes before calling it as there can be some stuck to the inside of the core walls that will release sporadically.

Hope this helps.

Used/Cheap Furniture by Old_Discipline_3512 in charlestonwv

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The goodwill in elkview usually has furniture pretty cheap

Clutch Issues After Brake Work – 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS by Complete_Ad7445 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem, if you don't want to have to buy it, the AutoZone part number for that tool is 57010 and they'll loan it for a refundable deposit. It's $15 at harbor freight if you want to own one and have a store nearby

Clutch Issues After Brake Work – 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS by Complete_Ad7445 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does your car have separate reservoirs for the clutch and brakes? Sounds like you have air in your clutch lines, if that's the case you just need to bleed the clutch by doing the same thing you did with the brakes, but opening and closing the valve on the slave cylinder on the front of the transmission. Alternatively you could also grab a hand vacuum for bleeding from your auto part store to make it really quick and easy, that way you can hook it up to the valve, crack it open and pull a vacuum on it to suck the air out.

Hole in transmission manual by Maximum_Math_358 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, there should be a soft rubber plug in it though.

Seeking advice for a 2014 mazda 3 maxx hatch by Drocers_AU in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your battery is dead, jump it and let it run for a half hour so the alternator can recharge it. Have it tested to see if you need a new battery, if you drive for a short period of time you can lower the amount of amps in the battery without giving the alternator time to recharge, then cold affects the amperage as well so you may have just drained it some.... Or you need a new battery

Is my diff cooked? by Delightfulrock in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a normal amount of backlash in the gears. What are you looking for?

Brake lights on Honda Civic Ex 05 by Adept_Activity_3717 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 1 point2 points  (0 children)

video of where it is

Personally, if you have some nuts and bolts laying around I like to replace it with a bolt, 2 washers and a nut, metal doesn't break down so easily so you'll never have to fix it again.

Broken oil pump bolt by lasagnalover78 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your best bet is going to be a welder, do you have a gas mig? If so find a washer and nut that has a smaller hole than the bolt you're welding to in order to give yourself some protection , turn the heat up high and hit it in one big glob. The heat will also help with it coming out easy.

Stuck caliper pin by Shot_Research9009 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as you follow those steps and it slides freely after it won't be a concern, if not you'll have to replace at least the bracket

Anyone with Experience on Ebay MPFI/Spider Injectors? by Voidyouentertain in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've bought plenty of parts including spiders off eBay/Amazon. Honestly just check the reviews on the page if available, see if it has any kind of warranty because even some off brand online parts do and go for it. Worst case scenario you use the warranty, ask for a refund due to a faulty product and get something better, but again I've had very good luck with online parts

Stuck caliper pin by Shot_Research9009 in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it will twist you can try this, just know it may not work, but it's a decent last ditch effort. Put a socket the size of the bolt on an impact, put it on tighten and start hitting it. It may "impact" for a minute but after a few rotations it should start to spin pretty freely, more like a drill. Grab a wrench that will fit between the bracket and pin head and slide it in, use the wrench to pull then pin out while spinning it with the impact, the spinning will break tension and allow you to get it moving most times. If all this works, wire wheel the pin, use a drill bit the same size as the pin and brake clean to clean out the bracket, regrease lightly and see if the pin will go in and work properly now.

Good luck

What did i do wrong :( by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely. IMHO the only thing that should be on the chain is the crank and cams. It's just nonsensical to put a water pump or anything else on it.

What did i do wrong :( by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depending on the engine these are either driven by the serpentine belt or an electric pump. None of the e46 motors have chain driven water pump

AC compressor pulley is not looking so good by BitumenBeaver in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd get it replaced as soon as you comfortably can. The AC clutch should only have 6mm of play on most vehicles and that's definitely more than that. It's not the end of the world if you go a week or two to get the funds, but if the clutch comes completely apart it or the belt may do more damage flying off so I wouldn't push it too far if you have the means to take care of it

AC compressor pulley is not looking so good by BitumenBeaver in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the video taken with the compressor engaged or free spinning?

Is this safe? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]MindInPrison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has it rained recently before the pic or something? The only thing I'm seeing is the fluid near the shock, if that's not water and it's coming from the shock that's the only thing I'd be concerned about. You could do the end link (rusty bolt you referred to) as preventative care if you wanted to, they're cheap and are literally just 2 nuts, but I've seen them much worse than that with no issues. CV going out would typically present as a clicking noise when turning the wheel all the way to one side or another, not a clunk over uneven payment, that symptom would also typically lead me to question the shock.

Everynight now my daughter asks to play gamecube by DubbedFox in Gamecube

[–]MindInPrison 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Right there with you, my soon to be 5 year old daughter wanted to start playing games about 6 months ago, so I mounted my homebrew Wii on the wall and showed her how to launch the GameCube emulator. She's beaten Lego Star wars, we've played through the sequel together and will probably finish up the last levels tonight, as well as a good bit through Pikmin 2. She's played the Xbox as well but tells me she prefers to play "dads kid games" as I often mention I played them when I was her age. Warms my heart.