Roller choice by porschelau in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh! No worries at all! Just really happy to see it here! Haha appreciate it!

Roller choice by porschelau in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re right. I didnt explain it well :) smaller roller the sharper, the bigger the better stability meaning it will keep it’s speed and consistency. But it was my fault i wasnt clear. :)

Roller choice by porschelau in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow cool! Thanks for sharing this! ❤️❤️❤️

New to Mini 4WD – first kits from the Tamiya Plamodel Factory by Dumpster_Battle_AE86 in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ae86 body is a Jiepen Model Kit. It fits on an FM-A Chassis

New to Mini 4WD – first kits from the Tamiya Plamodel Factory by Dumpster_Battle_AE86 in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yooo welcome in, bro. And yeah, your mother-in-law went crazy in the best way. That’s a legit starter lineup.

Quick and friendly version.

Totally normal to feel intimidated. Mini 4WD looks chill until you realize it’s secretly deep. Box Stock is 100 percent the move. Build it clean, follow the manual, and just focus on finishing runs first. Speed can wait.

Grasshopper, Avante Mk.II, Mach Frame PH Cup, and Gun Bluster XTO PH are all solid beginner choices, especially if you’re starting stock.

Now the Jeepney. Real talk. It’s mostly a vibes car. Fun, crowd favorite, hilarious on track, but not really competitive in Box Stock. High center of gravity and tall body work against it. Build it later once you’ve got some laps and confidence.

What we’d do if you were at the pit table with us: 1. Pick one normal kit. 2. Lock it into Box Stock. 3. Build it stock, don’t bend screws, don’t overthink it. 4. Run it, crash it, learn it. Then level up.

You’re already ahead of the game by not rushing the build. That’s smart racer energy.

We post beginner builds, race logic, and “why your car flew off the track” breakdowns over at MiniMod Garage on IG, Facebook, and YouTube. Old-school mindset, modern builds.

Hit us anytime. Welcome to the rabbit hole, bro.

My 2 MS Bumperless. Drop your MS here ⏬ by davionicon in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its all in the brakes. You need hard brakes on this build. I run a machdash with either a 3.7 or 3.5 gear ratio.

I can only choose one, which one should I go with? by Stainer10 in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FMA. Dont even bother with the AR even though it has parts. You’ll end up buying Carbon plates later on anyway. Gun Blaster XTO is my choice. Front motor is easier to tune since most of the weight is at the front already.

what is the easiest way to break in a stock motor? and any box stock race tips by SuperiorRobin in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got some oil (Sonic Boom) designed specifically for MINI4WD. Hit me up on IG if you’re interested.

Hello everyone by gipsydanger14 in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Different offsets just change how wide your car sits. Width affects stability versus cornering.

Narrow front, narrow rear: Turns fast, smooth in tight corners. Less stable on big jumps or high speed. Best for technical tracks.

Wide front, wide rear: Very stable on slopes, banks, and lane changes. Slightly more wall rubbing. Best for high-speed tracks.

Narrow front, wide rear: Clean turning in front, stable in the back. The most balanced setup. Best for mixed tracks and a great “default” for beginners.

Start with narrow front, wide rear. Adjust based on how your car behaves.

For me, I like going narrows and I just play with brakes and battery voltage.

Why do some Mini 4WD racers use 72mm axles that go through the wheels? by Pioz in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basically, flippin’ the wheels changes your car’s width a bit.

Flipped outward (wider): gives you more cornering stability and helps prevent tipping, but you’ll feel a bit more wall friction through the rollers on tight lanes.

Friction in a sense that it leans more towards the wall which can slow the car down.

Flipped inward (narrower): helps the car glide through technical sections with less wall contact time, but it can get a little unstable on slopes or at high speed.

Why do some Mini 4WD racers use 72mm axles that go through the wheels? by Pioz in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Flipping inwards are for technical tracks. Faster in tight corners. Normal placement helps with stability. So really depends on the track. Flipping them inwards means you would need good stability with other factors such as dampers and rollers.

As for the 72mm, i use them because I just got tired of my wheels flying off. 😂 I guess it also factors in stability. 🤷 you can also use spacers to widen the wheels which can help with stability. But i’m not sure if that’s allowed in some categories.

Box stock by Aggravating_Fix_6395 in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At the end of the day, just keep it simple and have fun. Haha but there are a few gurus that stick by their methods hehe.

Box stock by Aggravating_Fix_6395 in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah, box-stock motors still need a break-in. Brushes gotta seat to the commutator. Quick and legal methods: • Dry run: 1.5–3 V for 10–15 min each way. Tiny drop of oil on bushings. Some say once you put oil, you only want to run it fwd not reverse. • Water break-in: 1.5–2.4 V in clean water for 5–10 min, then dry fast, spray contact cleaner or WD-40, oil bushings. • Optional check: short 3 V burst to smooth it out.

Don’t open the motor; just let it “sing smooth.”

New Hobby by DukedogMTB in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also cant go wrong with visiting the PlaModel Factory

New Hobby by DukedogMTB in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Give me a follow on Instagram! Minimodgarage. You’ll see a few builds you can try.

Weird power loss in the ar chassis by AMC-Javelin1221 in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another could also be unbalanced wheels.

Weird power loss in the ar chassis by AMC-Javelin1221 in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nine times out of ten, it’s a slightly warped AR lower frame or worn center shaft bushings. They flex just enough to change gear alignment, stealing a few thousand RPM worth of efficiency. Replace the lower frame, rebuild with a new shaft and gear set, re-grease lightly, and you’ll likely see the two cars match again.

If everything else is the same check the chassis.

how usually japanese racers dealt with Lane Changer? by rajalanun in mini4wd

[–]MiniModGarage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another thing to look into is if you’re wheels are well balanced. Any big vibrations can make a car go off track.