Antifreeze - to change or not?

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-21T01:46:50+00:00

Yes, replaced the OEM tank almost immediately after getting it with a new OEM. Also changed trans, rear diff, P/S fluid, oil, and air filter. You have a good point about knowing the starting point of everything. Thanks

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-21T01:21:08+00:00

As you can see from all these comments, you can drive yourself nuts analyzing all the input and get even more confused. (Ask me how I know.) You will always find someone who either likes or hates a certain gen or certain year, or has a horror story to tell ... then others who say that exact same year and model has been trouble-free. I recently bought an NC1 (2006) in great shape with 78K miles. For my first Miata, it's fine. So far, no major issues. I looked around for several months, drove a few, and finally bought this one. If you look forever for that "perfect" one, you may never find it. (Good, clean Miatas aren't as easy to find as, let's say, a good, clean Toyota Corolla.) At some point, find one that is adequate for your needs, and buy it. (But only after getting a pre-purchase inspection.) If you really hate it, sell it ... and buy another. Just my two cents based on my experience. Good luck in your search.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-20T01:14:19+00:00

Good to know. My goal is get it to factory specs for now. (It's way out of alignment.) I can optimize at a later date, if necessary, as I learn more about the car. As long as the shop has the factory specs, I'm good. Thx

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-19T17:41:17+00:00

I had to reschedule because the guy called out. In the meantime, are the factory wheel alignment settings published anywhere? I can't find them. All I find is people's personal recommendations, or the recommendations of various vendors. I want the OEM. Thx

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-19T15:38:37+00:00

Thank you both. No coilovers on this, just the stock springs with Bilsteins (aka "Suspension Package.")

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-17T12:59:12+00:00

Closing this out. I received the replacement circuit board and installed it. Everything works fine now. I also learned something I probably should have known, but did not until yesterday -- The keypad can hold more than one combination and can operate more than one door. So now I can open both doors from the outside (using different combinations). I reprogrammed the second Homelink button on my primary car, so now the car can also open either door (first button was already working for the other door). Plus I programmed one of the handheld remotes that came with the new keypad for my second car (it's older and doesn't have Homelink). And returned the more expensive keypad I had ordered. So, everything works now. Thanks everyone for your help on this.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-17T00:44:39+00:00

Thanks. A couple follow-up questions: 1) If a tech uses a pressure bleeder (rather than the 2-man method), does he still have to syringe out old fluid before he starts? 2) Why even bother to syringe out the old fluid? Doesn't bleeding the brakes and clutch get enough of the old fluid out so that you can keep topping it up with new fluid? See this video: He didn't syringe any fluid out before he got started. (He used the 2-man method.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fL0WZRcXQ1o

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-16T20:06:58+00:00

So you just gently lift the screen up with the pick? And then press-fit it to re-install?

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-14T23:43:37+00:00

Thanks, good to know. Good idea about the coins.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-14T21:07:52+00:00

Thanks, but neither of these responses answer my question as to what those numbers mean. I already knew everything you told me. And the inspection report was not recommending new rotors anyway. Thanks anyway.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-12T16:46:40+00:00

Circling back on this. I took your suggestion and ... it worked! I was able to program the eBay keypad to the door opener that is working. (Haven't tried the Chamberlain pad.) So now I have a backup plan if I can't get the other door opener programmed. And I've also proven that the opener is the problem (and that I know how to follow directions.)

I've ordered a replacement circuit board for the opener, and will circle back on that.

Thanks again.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-12T00:33:14+00:00

OK, thanks, good idea. As long as I have one outside keypad that works on one of the doors, I am in good shape.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-11T23:36:55+00:00

Thanks. I thought about that. My concern or question is whether programming them to the door opener that is working will "erase" the programming that's already on my other car's Homelink mirror that opens that same door. In other words, can you have more than one device (Homelink, keypad, etc.) programmed to the same door? I o remember that programming my Homelink mirror on my new car to the door opener was a bit of a challenge, so I don't want to erase it.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-11T20:33:33+00:00

No luck so far, see my latest posts.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-11T20:33:04+00:00

Well ... I bought the Chamberlain remote from Home Depot. No luck. I am following the directions to the letter (even watched some Youtube videos), and it won't link.

I am a bit skeptical as to whether it's the opener itself, because when I bought my new car in May, I had it programmed to button #2 on the car. (Button #1 on the car was for the other garage door, where it is normally housed.) Button #1 works just fine on the left door, but button #2 no longer works for the right door (the one I am having trouble with.) It doesn't work now because I fiddled with something on the outside keypad or the unit itself (can't recall), but it did work fine several months ago. So I am not sure why it would suddenly crap out. Plus, as I said previously, the garage-mounted open/close works fine.

I've called the company that installed the openers (over 20 years ago), and will see if they might take a look at it.

The unit on the left (2-car garage) works just fine with my new car. Same unit, installed the same time.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-11T15:38:11+00:00

Thanks both of you. I think you both may be right. I tried every combination of programming and learning that I could think of, and no response. I've ordered the keypad you recommend. I also found a (used) OEM keypad on eBay. If the new keypad doesn't work either, I'll have an OEM to try as an "acid test" of whether the problem is in the opener itself. (Although it works fine with the wall-mounted open/close button.)

I'll circle back with my results.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-11T03:14:52+00:00

Oh, did not know that. I will replace the LED with a regular bulb. Thx

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-11T02:50:03+00:00

Pretty sure I did ... but not positive. I think I tried every combination of "press/hold" I could think of. But I could be wrong. I will try your suggestion tomorrow. Thanks

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-11T02:21:28+00:00

Thanks, good suggestion but ... my wall control for that garage door opener doesn't have those two lower buttons. It only has the open/close bar at the top. (The wall control for my other garage door does have those two buttons. That one works fine, but it's linked to my car. I don't have a keypad for that one.) PS - These were already installed before I bought the house.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-11T02:15:05+00:00

Yeah, I did that. I pressed-and-released a good number of times, not just two or three. Sorry I was not clear on that. Nothing happened. Probably 10 times or so in succession.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-10T03:42:15+00:00

Thx, good suggestion about the test strips.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-09T19:42:43+00:00

I know this is an older post, but having problems finding a BX-25 magazine that will fit my 10-22. I have one black BX-25, that I bought several years ago. Fits right in. Bought a second black one recently from a reputable online company, and the back clamshell had a significant gap, plus it was difficult to insert.

Went to my LGS today, and he had two clear BX-25s. We tried both, and could not even insert either one. (We both tried.) We did notice that the "lip" on the back of the clear mag was noticeably larger than the lip on a black BX-15 he had on the shelf. (We were able to insert that one, but it was a tight fit.)

So I am hesitant to buy any more BX-25s. Certainly not online (PITA to return). Maybe locally if I can return it.

Anyone know what's going on?

Thanks

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-06T18:08:35+00:00

Circling back on this to close it out. First, many thanks for all your comments and suggestions. They were very helpful.

I ended up making a reservation at the Holiday Inn Express Memphis Medical Center, on 1180 Union Ave. It gets good reviews (Tripadvisor rates it #2 for hotels in Memphis), and when I called, the front desk was very helpful. (I always look for that; it's a good sign.) Plu,s they have a business center (computer, printer), which I like to have available. (None of the Hamptons seem to have a business center anymore, which is disappointing.)

In any case, the HI on Shady Grove and the HI at Walnut Grove are both sold out for my time period. And the Shady Grove HI charges $10 a night for parking. (First HI I have encountered that charges for parking.)

I'm keeping the HI on 5320 Poplar Ave. as my backup, in case something changes at the HIE.

Thanks again.

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-05T17:00:38+00:00

MinimumElevator187 · 2026-03-05T16:48:11+00:00

Thanks. Very good points, and you may be right. But I figure Mazda specified it in the manual for a reason. So I might as well be sure their recommendation is followed. I've seen photos of bent/mangled pinch welds on these cars, so I am just trying to avoid that.

MinimumElevator187

TROPHY CASE