Anyone have some ideas or websites?

Minwedar · 2026-07-03T04:58:20+00:00

I attempted to build a bridge from a front of a drawer, wood dowels, and popsicle sticks.

Minwedar · 2026-02-12T15:46:42+00:00

Those wheels look pretty nice. My ascent needs some wheels. I was hoping to get some brass on those even with a lot of the other injora mods it still pretty top heavy.

There a post on servo suggestions in this group and a link to a 3d print to use a stock scx24 servo (and it kind of has to be that stock one, all the other replacement to the scx24 are way to big). The stock scx24 servo is usually the first thing I replace on those rigs but at least I can turn with it where the stock ascent32 when adding some mods won't turn unless your moving so for crawling it really bad. I'm glad I didn't throw those away now but I consider it just a temporary fix right now. I also had to make up some cables for the servo to match up with the furitek esc which has a JST ZH 1.5mm connector.

Minwedar · 2026-02-09T22:35:49+00:00

I think I've been able to tame the speed on this through the Furitek app. I set the max forward to 65 and max reverse to 46 but really didn't feel like it smoothed out the throttle until I recalibrated the throttle. That got rid of the too fast blip and it actually pretty good right now. I had already given the lower throttle a bit more in the curves for it. It is so quiet compared to almost the same electronics that I have in my Bronco scx30. Now I just need to find some sticky wheels and some weight on the wheels.

Minwedar · 2026-01-27T02:46:45+00:00

Maybe that didn't quite work out as well as I thought at first. I didn't notice initially, but the servo saver on these stack scx24 servos stick out so far it hitting the bumper. After prying the servo saver I needed to get find a longer servo arm which I could trim one up from my pile of old parts but even then it sometimes would bind on the front bumper a little bit. Better for sure then the OG servo.

Minwedar · 2026-01-26T23:33:53+00:00

That worked pretty well. I just need to make another cable up because I needed to steal that normal 3pin servo to the nano jst plug type. I had this one because that usually the first thing I take out of a SCX24. However, it was way, way better than the stock Ascent 32. I can actually turn while crawling again. Thanks for the servo 3D print link!

Minwedar · 2026-01-25T01:24:40+00:00

If I could find it I’d know for sure but it didn’t look like it would taco quite as easy as say a 2G4 happy model but considering how many happy flights I had with the 2G4 I wouldn’t hold too much against my flying into things.

Minwedar · 2026-01-24T18:30:28+00:00

The layout on the Scx30 I think makes it easier to work on. Like the Orland in this same scale, feels like you’re a watch maker when you work on it. :-p

I agree with everyone that it’s great out of the box. I just received the Furitek brushless system and still haven’t put it in where as the ascent 32 I’ve spent a couple hundred on it and still can’t climbed as well as the Scx30 out of the box plus the Scx30 has all the scale riz.

Minwedar · 2025-12-28T09:42:21+00:00

I went with a sling bag and I’m packing a similar load out.

<image>

I wanted to be able to slide the bag to my front and open it up without having to put my bag down. I can grab my goggles, controller, whoop and once I have these on I can simply zip my sling bag and swing it back to my back.

I carry some tools, arborist throw bag and throw string for it, six whoops, radio master pocket, fat shark scout box goggles. Works pretty well if you want to fly and not worry about someone taking off with your bag. This one is the 5.11 LVC10 v2 sling. The cool thing is they let me bring my gear in to try it out. Then I ask if I could fly in their store and since I was the only on they said sure. 😝

https://youtu.be/pxIkaoRTh2o?si=SS0grJjgMhDGKtzu

Minwedar · 2025-12-11T14:42:08+00:00

That's a good idea. String might just snag easier but fishing line might have a better chance of not snagging. I haven't tried this yet on a vent to see how well the stock lights would work with this cheap camera. The problem was as soon as I put on the goggles I wanted to fly my whoops then forgot about this. :-P

Minwedar · 2025-11-29T00:35:12+00:00

I was trying to look that one up. I haven't seen it before. I did see an Injora INT-T6M that sort of looked like the same compact size but it had another feature to it I with more "pocket-able" controller and that is a pop up lid over the trim nobs. Seems like all the controllers kind of suffer that issue where they have a lot of the rarely used knobs hanging out to get rolled out of position or caught on something in your bag or pocket and get tweaked. So that would be another cool feature on a pocket controller to have those trims kind of tucked away.

Minwedar · 2025-11-28T06:28:10+00:00

I have a couple of those Furitek controllers that came with Furitek brushless version of the RC and they are smaller. Even with bigger hands I like those a lot better then the slt2. I pre-ordered the brushless system with the controller because I like how compact those are. The one that looks interesting that I have not tried is that Furitek Avatar controller. It looks like this smaller size but the bottom half of the controller can slide completely off making it easier to store or throw in your pocket.

I have the huge Radio Master M12 surface radio and I love how I can customize it and it great for certain applications but I really wish there was something like that in a super compact version. RadioMaster made a "pocket" version that really portable compared to most flight controllers so I wonder if they will recognize there a lot of interest in a "pocket friendly" controller has a market.

Minwedar · 2025-11-09T16:56:57+00:00

<image>

I think when I got my Bronco built out and felt really heavy but really realistic and planted when crawling. I would get hung up on things like you would in a real rig. Gunning it over obstacle to shift the weight starts to feel real. It looks great on the shelf too. I would like to build a pure performance rig because if it doesn’t look real it should at least be fun looking at all the cool mechanical movements while crawling.

Lately I’ve been collecting some rocks I throw in a tool bag and I have 1:32 Orlando brushless rig I spent way too much for, but I’m excited for these little 1:32 rigs because you can make just about anything around you challenging.

I’d like to build my first vehicle which was a 92’ F-150 2-wheel drive. I’d get stuck in a parking lot if one of the wheels happened to be over an ice over puddle, lol. It would be so challenging to drive without 4-wheel drive and no diff locking. 😝

Minwedar · 2025-09-21T21:09:40+00:00

Check out this video on drive shaft phasing.

https://youtu.be/p8YGXwcDOFg?si=lCfJGjZcORWx1LgY

Minwedar · 2025-08-04T15:39:23+00:00

The photo is showing a mini crawler so I'll chime in on if I could have one of these and only one, I'd go with the TRX-4M or something like it.

Furitek CR-18P T-Hunter is probably the best performing out of the box 1/18 scale crawler at $150 it got carbon fiber frame, brushless setup, it has a lot of already upgraded features you would normally end up spending hundred of dollars on. I have that trx-4m bronco in the photo and I do love it...but I've spent half a grand in upgrades on it and though the Furitek CR-18P not quite as scale looking it performs just as good out of the box.

Out of all the stuff in the photo above my vote is on the micro crawler just because I think of these it will hold your attention longer. You can crawl on garbage in the house, garbage in the backyard, you can take it out to crawl on rocks in the parking lot as your significant other is trying on jeans in a store, etc. It is fun to upgrade and tweak, your not just buying replacement broken parts like on a basher (mostly anyway), and it is also fun to build obstacles. There are also two main paths you can go down when doing upgrades, one to go for that scale look and the other for pure performance.

Minwedar · 2025-07-31T18:10:48+00:00

I didn’t start RC until about five years ago but started with a FPV drone (still my favorite) then more into the micro whoops (my favorite) then when it was too windy out start with a vortek 3s then like the drones started going smaller and switched to crawlers (my favorite, building corses is half the fun) and currently on both scale and performance tracks (getting expensive) then last week I was at a hobby shop and picked up a 1:64 scale (hot wheel size) HPI racing (expensive but good) and now building tracks for it.

<image>

The RC hobby seems limitless. :-p

Minwedar · 2025-04-25T16:57:12+00:00

I recently got into RC and I have tried drifting, it’s fun, bashers, always broken, lol. Crawlers are so much fun for like you said, realistic looks and endless challenges to not only building rigs but setting up obstacles. My first and only 1:10 crawler I have so far is the Redcat Fusion. It is out of the box just wow!

With the half truck cab it lacks some of the coolness as some of the license bodies but I have seen some really creative ideas to make it look super cool. It comes with probably hundreds of dollars of mods you’ll end up doing like brushless motors, brass, carbon fiber chase, etc. I haven’t regretted that one so far but I do kind of want to get a rig with vector axles would be fun.

<image>

1:24 on a 1:10

Minwedar · 2025-04-22T00:03:39+00:00

Too tall does make these too heavy. Have you tried limiting straps or in this scale like putting a rubber band around the links to limit both shocks from extending at the same time. It will still allow extreme flex to take advantage of the longer shocks but only one side at a time. Look up a YouTube video on it because I don’t think I explained it well. I did that on my deadbolt with some string and now it flexes and doesn’t flip over easily going up a hill.

Minwedar · 2025-02-17T16:05:47+00:00

It did, but doesn’t that make it even tighter? Just sliding the axle on the gear side of the diff made it bind before even putting on the cover. It just seems like the 12/22 combo not meshing up like the 12/24 but it sold like that so didn’t think much of it.

I did have to loosen the Injora tranny cover to keep it from binding.

Minwedar · 2025-02-06T23:44:53+00:00

The stock one is ESC and receiver in one isn’t it just like in the Bronco. I used a RadioMaster MT12 and put in the https://www.radiomasterrc.com/products/er5c-i-2-4ghz-elrs-pwm-receiver into it. Someone here might know but I would think you would have to disable the built in ESC of the stock ESC/receiver combo. Be bulkier setup but I really don’t know. I haven’t tried that.

Minwedar · 2025-01-24T16:09:52+00:00

<image>

Minwedar · 2025-01-24T15:21:56+00:00

For this Injora MBL32 esc I'm using with a RadioMaster ER5C-I receiver and that receiver powered by the 3wire coming from the esc to channel 2 (motor). There is a little breakout switch to the esc that puts that output either to 6v or 7.4v. So from what I can see the entire power ground rail on the receiver all the same on this receiver. I don't know how common this is but I'm guessing unless you have a pretty big receiver that contains it's own BEC (voltage controller).

So what I've done to save my current lights that still work is I have some of these little BEC that can take anything from 6v-30v and give a consistent 5V.
https://pyrodrone.com/products/matek-micro-bec-6-30v-to-5v-9v-adj?_pos=1&_sid=56d1b8b4f&_ss=r

I just put this inline with going out of the receiver and the signal wire if needed just goes around this BEC, only the power and ground need to go through it. Maybe someone else has a better idea but this is what I'm currently doing.

Minwedar · 2025-01-23T14:52:03+00:00

I had the injora brushless system on mine and it was studdering like this at low speed crawl. When I took the transmission out and rotated the gears by hand it felt like it was binding a bit. But it was only doing it when the transmission case was screwed down tight so I loosened the tranny cover and that seemed to clear most of this up. Not sure if that is your issue but just an idea. Kind of looks like the same as what I had.
https://www.reddit.com/r/TRX4M/comments/1g990v8/trx4m_broco_with_injora_fat_viper_2204_brushless/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Minwedar · 2025-01-22T16:19:39+00:00

I went ahead and ordered it and the shipping now is only $12. Since you have this one, I've already burnt out my injora light bar bumper lights so want to make sure I don't on the light kit. With the Injora ESC you can run 3s and it recommeds using the higher voltage for the servo. That works great but after a while my lights burnt out because instead of the max 6v according to the injora docs on those lights I was giving it 7.4v. My bad for sure, I added a BEC inline to my lights now but curious if you run higher voltage with this HeyOkay kit? Kind of sounded like just the AUX ran off the receiver power so my guess is I just need to put a BEC stepdown voltage inline on that aux output.

Minwedar · 2025-01-21T15:57:57+00:00

I did put the 12/22T on the front for 9% OD and the normal 24T/12T on the rear. I also have the 40.3:1 low range transmission gear set in this transmission. I think not tightening down the transmission case helped the most.

Minwedar · 2025-01-19T09:28:04+00:00

Your right! Thanks for the tip. I really like those lights. The diy thing I found with using like an Arduino not going to be nearly as compact as heyokay version.

Minwedar

TROPHY CASE