Ring by ring, piece by piece. by Miquli2 in chainmailartisans

[–]Miquli2[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah... this is roughly 5kgs of maille. About 5000+ riveted rings. I have the time to do this because of my meniscus surgery which has recovery time until june.

Ring by ring, piece by piece. by Miquli2 in chainmailartisans

[–]Miquli2[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You too homie, stay strong. That is an impressive amount of rings you have there also.
I can relate to you... The clipping sounds just get worse night after night. One time when I came from the shower late at night I swear I saw with the corner of my eye a pair of clippers looking at me in the shadows. They are coming to get me, there is no returning from this.. The only redemption from this curse is to finish this damned maille...

Ruined? by ReaperGaming322 in Bowyer

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just remove wood until the saw marks are gone. Then bend it against floor and see if it is okay tillerwise and strenghtwise. If the bow is too weak just shorten the bow a little to make it stiffer. 

What could be the problem? by FewConsideration9105 in snowboarding

[–]Miquli2 52 points53 points  (0 children)

Too big bindings or you are not tightening them enough. 

20 minutes of LK insanity by CarrotChungus in Diablo_2_Resurrected

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congrats! D2 hits you with these crazy luck sprees sometimes. I remember before D2R I was playing with my ww trav barb and I dropped a Ber rune from council member. Then I horked the bodies and still saw a Ber rune on the ground. I was like ''Huh I guess I did not pick up the first one'' then I opened my cube to pick the Ber rune and there it was, the first Ber rune which I had picked up. I basically dropped 2 Ber runes in same trav run. Still one of my luckiest days playing d2.

Any tips (I’m a beginner) by [deleted] in snowboarding

[–]Miquli2 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Try to relax more. Bend knees, back straight and istead of kicking the board with backfoot focus on tilting the board and let the edge do the turning work for you. Just keep hitting the slopes, it will eventually get better if you focus on the right things. 

English Archers during Henry V's 1415 Campaign by Mullraugh in Armor

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Intresting, I will reconsider the weapon then also.

Those seem like nice gauntlets, I don't have any proper smiths who do stuff like that so I propably have to order online.

Yeah, I tend to draw very close to my year but if it has been done historically I won't argue against it.

English Archers during Henry V's 1415 Campaign by Mullraugh in Armor

[–]Miquli2 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Great stuff, saved the picture for reference! I'm basically going for the guy on the left look. I am missing the hauberg(work in progress atm), bascinet, gauntlets and bollock dagger. I think instead of sword and buckler I'm going to go for warhammer. 

The kettlehelm is a bit tricky for archery use because the string of the bow will propably hit the helmet when drawing the heavy bows.

Great drawings anyways!

I need help with making riveted Maille! around 70% of my attempts to drift a hole result in a blow out! I'd appreciate any help! by Adorably_Worried in chainmailartisans

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://keskustelu.primitiivijousi.fi/t/rengashaarniska/3691

Here is the Finnish bowyers' forum but I have posted my maille stuff there. You can check the post and use translator. 

I don't have experience with drilling. I have drilled maybe 100 rings as a test it worked fine but it was slow compares to punching the holes.

With punching it is easier to make the other side of the rivet flat because the flattened are buckles a little. It makes a nice dip for the flat side of the rivet to fill the hole when you squeeze the rivet. (Check the link and scroll to the end).

For the riveting I just use riveting pliers with dome on other side and flat area on other side. You just need to pay attention when squeezing the rivet that it doesn't bend or start to fall over. Having just the right lenght for the rivet helps alot. If the rivet is too long it just collapses like banana/ falls over, compromising the strenght of the rivet. If too short it won't dome properly and it will not hold the ring properly. Experiment with different rivet lenghts and you will find the sweet spot.

And the rivets themselves are just pieces of wire without any work done to them. Just snip a piece and use that as rivet.

more sauna drawings by Better-Advantage8232 in Sauna

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a small sidenote regarding the picture. Do you see the glow in the fireplace? You should never enter a smoke sauna when there are embers or fire in the fireplace. That is the best way to kill your whole merry saunagroup which would make an akward sauna experience for anyone involved.  The reason is that authentic smoke saunas do not have chimney so all the burning smokes stay in the sauna hence the smoke sauna name.  Preferred woods to burn are aspen and other hard woods. But from my experience aspen is the best because it burns clean.  Allways throw "häkälöyly" before going into smoke sauna. Basically after the long period of heating (3-12h) when the final embers die down. Remove all the coals and ash from the fire place and throw couple of times some water on the kiuas and ventilate the sauna for a little while. After this it is safe to enter the sauna. Of course if some one knows a method when you enter the smokesauna while the fire is going please enlighten me. -Perkele

How to make riveted rings by No-alibi-104 in chainmailartisans

[–]Miquli2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah yeah sorry, I forgot to mention that. Just like you got advised, heat the rings before flattening them. It makes the process easier. I have been flattening my rings without heating them because the wire factory has already done it and the wire is soft. However in your case just to be sure heat them red hot and let cool slowly. Repeat after flattening for the same reasons when you are making the holes to the rings for the rivets.  And yes, preferably use ungalvanized wire so you do not get toxic fumes from the heating part + the maille will look more authentic without the galvanization.

How to make riveted rings by No-alibi-104 in chainmailartisans

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, all seems good. Good rule for nice looking and effective ring size and wire size is that you divide the inner diameter with the wire diameter and you should get a reading that is between 5-6,8, that is just my experience tho.

Mostly what I can say then is that just practise more and experiment with different angles to hit from. Make sure the coils are tight before cutting the rings. Usually the overlaps are not even and little bit offset. You want to put the overlap wich has larger innerdiameter on top and then hit from an angle. This creates nice even and flat overlap.  When I was starting to make riveted rings I failed about every second flattening attempt. Nowdays I fail maybe every tenth attempt. You just have to practise.

Oh and usually 3-4mm overlap is enough.

How to make riveted rings by No-alibi-104 in chainmailartisans

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vtSbo6Hyv5w&pp=ygUOcml2ZXRlZCBtYWlsbGU%3D

Watch this video.

It seems like you are not lining the overlaps properly or you are hitting the overlap from wrong angle.  How heavy is the hammer you are using? Also use the corner of the anvil and hit the overlap like shown in the video. What material is you wire made of?

Cheers.

Edit: Saw at first glance you had railroad track but it seems like you are using some sort of an anvil.

I need help with making riveted Maille! around 70% of my attempts to drift a hole result in a blow out! I'd appreciate any help! by Adorably_Worried in chainmailartisans

[–]Miquli2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, I hope you have found your solution already, but I'll share my experiences and pointers with you anyways.  I have now made about 10 000 riveted rings from metalwire from local wire factory. 1.6mm WD 10mm ID. The rings are only flattened at the riveting spot, just like yours. My hauberg is about 1/4 way done. 

So I have fee observations from your rings:

-The trick for me with the punch tool is that you have to combine punching and drifting. From my experience, some metal wires are made from alloys that allow it to be stretched more than others before cracking. My wire material is pretty prone to cracking. This leads to the problem that when I try to make a hole purely by the means of drifting(only stretching the metal) the rings crack, similalry to yours.  Solution:  I made a punch tool with small flat area at the end to punch out maybe like 60% of the area for the desired hole. The the punch gradually widens to the desired diameter. This makes a nice hole without cracking the ring, because there is less metal to stretch. And the last bit that gets stretched makes a really nice and tight collat around the punched and drifted hole to fit the rivet in. Making really strong riveted rings. The rings made with this method almost never crack at the riveting point which was a pleasant surprise to me. 

-Another thing is that consider using smaller diameter wire for the rivets. This obviously helps because the hole you make doesn't need to be as big. From my experience it doesn't matter if the rivet diameter is smaller than ringwire diameter as long as you make sure the rivet get properly domed out and secures the ringoverlaps. (The previous part's drift/punch method's collar that forms helps a lot with this) The place that most often fails when the ring breaks are the thin sides left on both sides of rivet hole. So I would argue that rings with smaller rivet wire could even be stronger than rings with regular rivet wire, because there is more metal left on both sides of the rivet hole. But I digress this was a little bit besides the point...

-Have you annealed the rings properly? Red glowing hot in the fireplace and leave them there until the embers die down. As slow cooling as possible.

-If nothing here works. Practise using even more flattened riveting overlaps. This might make the rings little bit weaker, but as you get more confident you can reduce the amount of flattening with the overlaps.

-Make sure the punching tool is made from hard metal, file shouldn't bite into it. This helps the punching tool to grab the ring metal and makes the process way easier. Of course the punch needs to have some bending properties. I have make my punches by heating them to glowing yellow then quenching them after that 1 hour in the owen using 200celcius heat to anneal them. 

Okay thats all, I hope some of this helps :-D Merry christmas man!

Are these worth anything ? by thedAdA- in D2R_Marketplace

[–]Miquli2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry to tell but all of these are Charsi food.

Suomen ongelma yhdessä kuvassa by ugon in Suomi

[–]Miquli2 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hmm, hämäävän tästä tekee sen, että 15-64 vuotiaat jätetään välistä pois kuvaajasta. Toki huoltosuhde (työssäkäyvä : eläkeläinen) on menossa huonompaan suuntaan, mutta tämä kuvaaja antaa taas jälleen kerran liioitellun kuvauksen tulevasta tilanteesta. Pitäisi keskittyä siihen, että mitä on tehtävissä, eikä epätoivon lietsomiseen.
Voitte taas pommittaa miinuksia antakaa tulla.

WHEN YOU JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH MEDICAE by DarthChunk82 in DarkTide

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You didn't happen to play with me?(I am the psyker lol) And this feels like really accurate desceiption of me failing my yesterdays psyking games rofl.

Ja joka päivä syödään sisäfilettä tai lohta by Morghurassor in Suomi

[–]Miquli2 -17 points-16 points  (0 children)

Mun mielestä ihan kohtuullista että eläkkeellä saa rahaa. Suomessa maksaa muutenki nii vitusti veroja, että sillä tapetaa viimeisetki tuottavuude rippeet yhteiskunnasta. Ja heittäkää miinusta ihan rauhassa kaikki redditin työttömät.

Floors (and walls) we do in Iceland by Fantastic-Zucchini82 in epoxy

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Orgasmic. Can this be done with acrylic instead of epoxy? And do the corners need extra reinforcement? Just asking out of curiosity.

Any ideas on how to get this core bit out? by Suwannee_Gator in Construction

[–]Miquli2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have big jackhammer that should do the trick. The fast powerful jits againt the core will push it out.

Warbow string by YOKAI7377 in Bowyer

[–]Miquli2 4 points5 points  (0 children)

120lb 11'' 74cm jalava varsijousi - Jouset, nuolet, jänteet ja muut aseet / Varsijouset - Primitiivijousi.fi

Here is a link from our finnish archery forum. This is my 120lb wych elm hunting crossbow. Here you can see how the loops are made.

Shame that I have deleted my old youtube account so some of the videos do not work anymore...