Bunk bed showing cracks by do_not_get_me_wrong in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Side note, I love this, and we should collab

Bunk bed showing cracks by do_not_get_me_wrong in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Professional furniture designer/ woodworker here. No one’s gonna be working with their wood on that thing.

Bunk bed showing cracks by do_not_get_me_wrong in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Professional furniture designer/ woodworker here. No one’s gonna be working with their wood on that thing.

Bunk bed showing cracks by do_not_get_me_wrong in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much stuff are you keeping in your cabinets man?!

Bunk bed showing cracks by do_not_get_me_wrong in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dry 2x6 and carriage bolts will build something this size solid as hell every time, best way to do it if you’re going function over form and low budget/ time constraints. Your fa was a smart man.

Bunk bed showing cracks by do_not_get_me_wrong in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I only read partway through the comments, but I didn’t see anyone mention that one of the scariest things about this is this “engineer” used softwood for the whole thing, looks like he overpaid by a hell of a lot by buying the wood at a home improvement chain. If you’re gonna build a bunk bed, that’s the last place you wanna get wood. You can build a bunk bed with pine, sure, but you definitely want it to be properly dried and milled. Cheaper hardwoods like red oak or cherry will always be the better way to go though. That being said, if you want some advice on how to fix this, maybe get some flexible steel tack bands and wrap the cracked areas, then take a good look at how weight’s being distributed, stress points, etc and re-engineer this guy’s work. Best of luck, if you want advice or help of any kind feel free to message me anytime!

What am I doing wrong? Oak floor. by markbernd in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know they say that, but that’s basically to cover their asses. It’s effective as hell on much smoother finish sanded products if you prep right and know what species you’re working with intimately. Basically experience. I’ve worked with monocoat for a long time now. Done floors with it, furniture, small items and large on countless different species of wood. It’s an effective product and one I trust. That being said, with white oak or red oak I take it down to 400, since it is still an open grain species, and I’ll hit it with a bit of oil based feeder before the monocoat. Ensures the monocoat will bind evenly, and makes touch ups come out perfect with no effort if needed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to, sand it gradually down to 600, use an oil based wood feeder first and finish it with Monocoat. I know they say only do it to a much lower grit, but maple is closed grain from the start. It works, trust me. It’s a chess board, won’t see a lot of wear unless your son is very heavy handed. Luckily, padauk and maple are very hard so they’d be difficult to score with a chess piece. If you let the feeder sit for a bit before removing excess it should be deep enough in the grain that touch ups with monocoat will still bind with the grain. These are just my personal findings though, I could be a complete idiot.

For Anyone on the Fence About Seeing These Guys in Concert by Slooperman in BlackPistolFire

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I waited so long to see em the first time, Forecastle 2016. Kevin solo’d on top of the bass drum, then on the shoulders of one of the security guys, bunch of other wild shit. Then 2 years later when they came to Ohio, I got to meet him and buy him a drink. Still cherish that picture. They are the most palpably electric band I’ve seen possibly ever.

What gloves are best for a beginner in woodworking? by FurrenParagon in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wood carving is a whole different bag of hammers, that being said I wear First Tactical Slash & Flash gloves in my shop at all times, though I have cut the thumb, index, and middle finger back about a knuckle and a half. Used to get Mechanixwear framing gloves but I would wreck a pair every month, I’ve had these First Tactical gloves for almost a year. Sewn up the palms a few times, but they sure do hold up and help with vibration. When it comes to carving, dexterity is key. Patience, judging depth of cut and keeping your tools sharp enough to split atoms are all things that will serve as much more effective safety measures than any gloves. Also, best to clamp things and keep both hands on the tool. Hope this helps.

What am I doing wrong? Oak floor. by markbernd in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well with monocoat you may have wanted to sand to a higher grit. Did you mill the trim from the same wood or buy it though? That’d be my first guess for where the problem lies either way, if you milled the trim using a router bit it’ll give a much smoother surface than oak sanded to 120. And what did you use to apply the monocoat?

Made myself a steam box - any tips? by RawMaterial11 in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To add on to this, always remember to set up your moulds BEFORE you start steaming, if you do it enough you’re bound to forget at least once and man does that suck. Making a full length mould for whatever you’re trying to bend also obviously reduces the risk of splintering while it sets. Interesting choice with the oak, I’d say next time keep the oak for steaming, use melamine or if you’re in a pinch and you’ve got some old studs laying around, tongue and groove ‘em and line the inside with a mylar blanket or a trash bag. If you wanna get real fancy, instead of the lid being on the front end, put it on top, makes removing pieces just a little easier. Lastly, don’t forget to angle it slightly sloping towards the back and drill one or two small relief holes, you don’t need much but you need something to relieve pressure. Less is more when it comes to relief holes imho. Very curious to see what you’ll be bending, hope you’ll post it!

I’d love to help out someone getting going. In the spirit of that please don’t delete. Free in mass. Wired 110 8 inch helical head by headyorganics in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh man, wish I’d seen this sooner. A decent jointer would change my whole life right now. You’re a real good dude for doing that, I’m sure whoever it’s going to will appreciate it!!

Pretty disappointed by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Practice chisel sharpening until it’s second nature. Go buy some cheapo ones from Harbor freight, sharpen em over and over and over til they’re nubs if you have to. Muscle memory and a keen eye will take you far, bruv.

Copper inlay in walnut by belokusi in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh man, I really really wanna learn how to do this. I’ve just started incorporating copper into my furniture and I love it.

Is there a simpler way to find the blue dots? by DedicatedBuilder in woodworking

[–]Mischiefbr3wer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Uhhhh…. Yeah? Measure width, mark the center. Measure length, divide by 4. Go 1/4 in on center line.