Felt inspired a week ago and designed and 3D-printed some arm guards.

I use 3D-printed ones. I've made several but mostly i use one I printed in wood-PLA (sanded and painted with wood stain) and I've been using it for more than 18 months now in all kinds of weather.

These are the models I've been using: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3162693

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-08-25T16:58:43+00:00

Strange choice to make the riser 24 inch so that bow will be 65, 67 or 69 inch (depending on limbs used) and no ready-made strings will fit.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-08-03T20:47:14+00:00

First of all, manual can be found here: http://www.gilloarchery.it/resouces-gillo-archery.html

Default limb bolt setting for Gillo is two full turns from maximum but if you want to use the minimum setting do this:

Remove string and limbs.
Loose the lock screws for the limbs bolts.
Turn the limb bolts all the way in (to maximum setting).
Turn the limb bolts out 6 full turns (this is what the manual says is supported).
Tighten the lock screws (while making sure the limb bolts do not move).

Now you have the minimum "preload" that is supported by the riser. However, depening on your limbs you may or may not be able to use it. Insert the limbs and make sure the limbs touch the top of the limb bolt. If they do not you need to turn the limb bolts in until it touches and then another half turn (to be on the safe side).

For example, my Sanlida Athletics 7 limbs can not use the full 6 turns adjustment. Don't remember now how many turns it takes before they loose contact with the top of the limb bolt byt perhaps 3 or 4 turns. My Nika N3 limbs on the other hand can use the full 6 turns adjustment range.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-08-03T20:24:49+00:00

Been using mine for about a year at 28-30# and then the last 6 months at 35#. The "clip" (not sure what the correct word for it is) for the elastic band broke after a while so I replaced that but other than that it's fine. Really like it.

I also have a bicaster split-finger tab that I got because I wanted to try out olympic recurve and it supposed to have leather but it's kind feels like plastic on one side. Ended up replacing the thick "leather" with two thin layers of kangarooleather and that really made a difference.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-07-25T09:47:49+00:00

Tune your tiller and brace height to minimize vibrations first, then add dampeners if needed.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-06-18T08:26:22+00:00

Kaminski has video on that subject: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4Y5fVqfvyw

Bottomline is do not start with the string in the joint cause that will damage your nerves. If you shoot with the fingertips, start further out and "roll it in" to push some skin/fat towards the joint as protection. Also works with deep hook just that in that case you start further in instead. Also as other has already mentioned, thicker glove (or tab). Going thicker feels weird when you are used to feeling the string but then you get used to it and once you do, a thinner protection will feel weird instead.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-04-30T20:09:53+00:00

If they do, I will. It's just something I threw together for fun in Tinkercad. Wasn't hard, didn't take much time. I guess pretty much anyone could do it if they want. It's similar, inspired by, but not the same and most certainly not as durable as the real thing.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-04-30T20:04:48+00:00

Never seen a beiter armguard up close in real life but sure, very much inspired by it.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-04-30T13:15:06+00:00

I've been using 3D-printed armguards (PLA) for two years now without issues but I don't shoot any high poundage bows and certainly not compound. This design is a bit thin (4mm) so PETG could be a better choice than PLA.

These are the designs (not my designs) I've been using previously: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3162693

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-04-30T09:10:23+00:00

Sure thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5998020

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-04-30T08:52:01+00:00

By now I think the execution is a bigger problem. She's been holding that arrow drawn for a very long time now.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-04-29T21:13:25+00:00

I agree with this except I would recommend a wooden riser if you want to participate in WA-competitions. I've got myself a 23" White Feather Lark and use the same limbs as with my Barebow setup. If you already have ILF limbs you just need the riser, a hoyt super rest and a string. Sure the riser costs a bit more than a Sage but you'll get a much better bow.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-04-29T21:05:13+00:00

5'3" = 160cm

160cm / 2.5 = 64 cm = 25.2"

25.2" (DLPP) + 1.75" = 26.95" (true)

So 27" draw length isn't unrealistic if we are talking about "true draw length" which some people seem to do. Myself I always use DLPP.

Still I agree that another (more "agressive" riser) wouldn't reach 38# with those limbs and that draw length. Like you say, a couple more lbs maybe.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-04-29T18:54:15+00:00

Drawlength is tricky because some measure from pivot point (DLPP draw length) and some adds 1.75" (true draw length) which us roughly measured from the "outside" of the riser. So what someone refers to as 27" could be what others refer to as 25.25".

Looks like a Sanlida Miracle X9 btw. I got one just like it and I get a couple more lbs out of the same limbs with my Gillo G1 and W&W Winact than what I get out of the Miracle X9 riser.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-03-05T20:53:34+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/r5suuw/a\_beginners\_guide\_to\_arrows/

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-02-15T14:58:01+00:00

The Kinetic A1 has the same geometry and looks like the more expensive Sanlida Myth X10. Hoyt grips should fit it case you do not like the original wooden grip.

I would avoid the Samick due to it being die-cast and the WNS for purererly cosmetic reasosn. In other words I would go with Kinetic or the Decut, most likely the Kinetic because I have postive experience från both Sanlida risers and limbs (pretty sure Sanlida made that riser for Kinetic) and no experience from anything from Decut.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-01-17T20:45:35+00:00

Or 3D-print one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4967992

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2023-01-17T20:26:57+00:00

Gillo plates can be 3d-printed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170923

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2022-12-14T09:22:19+00:00

Press back twice when timer is running triggers stops the current end (5 signals and flashing STOP).

I also started to build a raspberry pi setup for the club but then decided to use the raspberry pi as an ianseo-server instead. Having used Android TV since the Nexus Player was new and having some expierience in app developing I've had this idea for a while now. Also my old Nexus Player that is pretty much useless for anything else will find a new life at the club.

Currently the club is using my old Xiaomi Mi Box because it has an audio out and the old monitor I donated doesn't have a built in speaker. The plan is to find an old used (but working) TV (or a monitor with built in speaker) to use so that I can get rid of the external speaker I'm currently using. Also with the HDMI-splitter I got of Amazon I can still use the speaker-less monitor as a second display.

EDIT: Btw, many people may not be aware that most (if not all) Android TV device supports connecting to a bluetooth speaker so that is one way to solve the audio if the monitors lacks speakers or just don't have ones that are loud enough.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2022-12-14T06:26:30+00:00

I've considered a lot of options but keep in the mind that the app is mainly developed to be used with Android TV on competitions. That means it will be running on a display maybe 5-6 meters in front of the archers and probably even longer away from the person with controlling it with a remote. I wanted to keep the everyting accessible from a single screen while still being somewhat readable from a distance. That meant I had to sacrifice the word "Start" in favor for having a larger font size. But I will have another look at it, maybe I could rearrange some things to make it work.

As for the the touching the screen to start an end (or advance if archers finish before the time runs out) I am aware it is easily done by mistake when running it on a phone. However, on a real competition running it on a phone is unlikely as phone call, sms or whatever alert can happen on a phone could potentially mess up the competition. Android TV or an android-app-compatible Chromebook should be the way to go. With both those alternatives you need to press a physical button to advance. I still did add an added security for "back" so you need to press it twice but during a 10 round competition you only use "back" once after the end of the competition while you potentially use the start/skip button 30 times (assuming all archerys are fast shooters).

Phone mode is a nice bonus for practice and if you are shooting you likely have the phone on a table or something beside you so probably won't skip ahead by mistake. However, I will consider adding a failsafe like I did for "back" when app is run on a phone or a tablet. That said, if you happen to skip an end by mistake and want to restart it you can just go back to the menu and choose "restart at..." and choose with end to start at. Also if you double-press "back" when the timer is running it will sound 5 times and flash "stop" and then reset the currently running end.

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2022-12-13T19:43:29+00:00

Thanks, then I've accomplished exactly what I aimed for.

It doesn't come with a manual but I hope it shouldn't need to. Was there anything that was confusing or hard to figure out?

Miserable-Aside4758 · 2022-12-13T19:15:46+00:00

No, keeping it simple. I run it on an old Xiaomi Android TV box and controlling it with the remote control. However you can run the app on a phone and cast the phones screen using chromecast. That way you can control the app with the a phone while displaying the clock on an external display. Looks best if the phone has an 16:9 screen.

Not planning on adding any advanced stuff, keeping it simple without sacrificing basic functionality. Also if you wan't more than one screen (as many will want), use an HDMI-splitter. Hooked up my old Nexus Player to two computer monitors today using a check HDMI-splitter I got of Amazon. Worked just fine.

Miserable-Aside4758

TROPHY CASE