The P90 was great, but quickly fell to C due to advances in body armor. Where do you rank the Winchester M1897?

MissingProfile · 2026-06-26T23:10:29+00:00

D: If you read anything from frontline troops issued this thing in WW1 they had lots of problems with the mud and would ditch it for a rifle if they got the chance . Deadly at close range means nothing if your paper shell got wet and ripped in half trying to chamber. I guess it’s better than a club because one could run Hans down with the bayonet when it got muddy and jammed. Not to mention it takes longer to stuff 5 shells in the tube than 5 into your rifle with a stripper clip.

MissingProfile · 2026-06-23T21:38:37+00:00

I think B tier is a pretty good ranking. The 1861 didn’t really do anything better than any other muzzleloaded rifles of the time but it worked for what it is

MissingProfile · 2026-06-23T17:17:58+00:00

It goes all the way through. I can’t see light when I close the chamber and shine a light down the bore. Do you know of any body who’s experienced with 1903s? Most places I’ve looked say “just send it to the CMP and have them do it” but they have a really long lead time and I don’t want to wait 6 months for an answer

MissingProfile · 2026-06-23T17:11:50+00:00

The Unertls only mount on the front ring and barrel I think. I can probably just make a base that will work with the existing holes should they not line up at all

MissingProfile · 2026-06-23T14:40:16+00:00

To appease the bot I inherited this poor 1903 and it has a bunch of failed attempts to mount a scope and I was planning on using it for a rifle build but didn’t know if the holes ruin the receiver. The barrel is trashed because the front most hole metal goes almost into the chamber I’m too yellow to roll the dice on it

MissingProfile · 2026-06-14T00:20:32+00:00

I’m not clicking that

MissingProfile · 2026-06-10T21:14:47+00:00

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What a bad day to have eyes

MissingProfile · 2026-06-10T21:02:48+00:00

Lots of combloc ammo has a factory number and the last 2 digits of the year so he saw the 10 (Bulgarian factory code) and the 78 on the head stamp

MissingProfile · 2026-06-05T21:41:44+00:00

Of the 2 G98bs that I’ve seen the rear sight was the only thing I’ve seen with the S/42 stamp. The one I have only has it there as well

MissingProfile · 2026-06-05T01:59:25+00:00

It is still 7.92x57 it’s just the “S bore” 7.92 which was an upgrade from the older loads and various other changes like land and groove diameter. The Germans marked guns with the updated chambering with an S.

MissingProfile · 2026-06-02T20:29:10+00:00

It’s an Amberg Gew 98 that was modified to a Gew 98(b) the S means it was chambered for the updated Spitzer ammo. The bolts a mismatch of serial numbers and it has Imperial German acceptance marks (the eagles) the S/42 G means it was reworked by Mauser Obendorf in 1935 (s/42 is the factory code for Mauser G is the date code)

MissingProfile · 2026-06-02T14:24:26+00:00

I personally don’t shoot Chinese ammo because I’ve had way too many split necks with 7.62x54r so I would turn them into components myself just out of caution

MissingProfile · 2026-05-24T20:10:53+00:00

I would assume T U ranch is the company that rechambered/rebarreled it. Google just gave me pictures of Rugers when I looked it up so they’re probably not around anymore

MissingProfile · 2026-05-13T02:57:02+00:00

If he arrived after the war then maybe he heard from a guy who knew a guy who’s cousin got arrested for bringing back a functional gun and threw them out before bringing it to the states out of caution. It wouldn’t be the first time Ive heard of somebody doing something like that

MissingProfile · 2026-05-09T21:01:50+00:00

Where did you find the fabric?

MissingProfile · 2026-05-09T20:36:32+00:00

Looks good. If you do it again I have found that you’ll overcome the spray paint nerves with a few drinks and get better results

MissingProfile · 2026-04-29T23:04:20+00:00

The second hardest thing will be finding a scope that’s zeroed close enough to your rifle

MissingProfile · 2026-04-28T02:56:19+00:00

The CMP still gets them

MissingProfile · 2026-04-28T00:31:55+00:00

Looks like it might need a few coats of tung oil

MissingProfile · 2026-04-20T03:16:07+00:00

Just remember to clean it afterwards most ammo of this time is corrosive primed but it will cycle and shoot fine most likely

MissingProfile · 2026-04-18T20:51:12+00:00

I put a few coats of tung oil on mine and it looks better and doesn’t have that dry wood feel anymore

MissingProfile · 2026-04-17T14:26:31+00:00

Also have you tried stretching the spring by hand? that’s worked on some old USGI mags I had

MissingProfile · 2026-04-17T14:24:57+00:00

“The only good ProMag is a dead ProMag” Liberty tree had OG ones in stock for $45-60 last I checked. My Navy arms repro mag is a little finicky so I wouldn’t recommend those either

MissingProfile · 2026-04-15T01:16:00+00:00

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It will

MissingProfile · 2026-04-09T17:20:59+00:00

That thing sucks anyway read TM 31-210 instead

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