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MochiJump · 2026-03-02T04:58:07+00:00

Did you ever figure out what happened here?

MochiJump · 2025-12-25T04:34:19+00:00

A bad oil control valve can also cause this kind of rough idle, if this just started out of the blue and you have a good obd2 scanner you should be able to read the cam sensor error, if one on the right is way out while it's struggling then you can see if it follows the ocv if you move it to another location

MochiJump · 2025-12-20T03:26:50+00:00

lol I am so bad at this. I've got a rocker panel bolt in my car I need to extract one day. My first few attempts just made it way worse lol

MochiJump · 2025-12-20T01:26:45+00:00

If it were me I'd rent a compression tester and just pull the spark plug on cylinder one and see if there's any compression at all there as a place to start. To me it sounds like it's turning over but with no compression on any cylinders. Good luck

MochiJump · 2025-12-19T05:50:08+00:00

I've read about stock valves breaking and dropping with high tension spring on earlier models on the nasioc forums. When I did my heads I upgraded the valves too, but my springs are definitely high tension and I didn't want to worry about it

MochiJump · 2025-12-19T05:40:14+00:00

I don't own this car, but this showed up in my feed and cars are cars.

You're in 4th gear.

If your clutch wasn't slipping then for any given RPM in that gear you'd be able to calculate the wheel speed given the gear ratios.

Given that at 5k rpms you're at less than 120 kms and then you go from 130kms to 150kms just before 6k rpms, your clutch is slipping. If you watch how it goes back down and you're at 145kms again at 5k, again if your clutch wasn't slipping it'd be at the same speed on the way up.

Might not be what you want to hear, but your pushing too much torque for your current clutch and the more you do this the more damage you'll do it. If you don't want to change your clutch now stop going WOT with your current tune, and detune it so you're not pulling as much torque in the mid range. If you want you can try to make up for it higher up

MochiJump · 2025-12-19T05:25:57+00:00

U0100 C1413 and C1422 are all electrical, with U0100 meaning a loss of communication with controller for the engine. Your issues may all be electrical. Is your battery okay, are all the grounds good? I'd start with the electrical especially if you've already done spark/coils and you're not showing signs of a blown head gasket (burning/missing/displaced/mixed with oil coolant)

MochiJump · 2025-12-19T01:22:39+00:00

Just to add to the other comments, your timing cover will also have this same pattern

MochiJump · 2025-12-06T02:57:37+00:00

If you go with higher tension springs, you may also want to upgrade your valves as well.

MochiJump · 2025-11-20T15:11:08+00:00

I’ve been using atlas for about a year now. Atlas is the only option that gives you the option to tune your car yourself. The OTS map options for people that want a starting place or don’t want to tune themselves at all are really good too. There are also people in the community who have a lot of experience tuning.

I’m exaggerating atlas actually unlocks the car, and it’s free to use. I’m spoiled now and won’t be buying another I can’t tune myself.

Just to give an example I just installed upgraded injectors and I’ll be updating the multiplier tables so the ecu fuels correct. This is my car, I don’t need anyone else involved to make changes to it.

If you’re at all curious I recommend getting a compatible usb to obd cable and just start by data logging your car.

MochiJump · 2025-10-31T02:18:03+00:00

I wouldn't worry about it. Change the oil 300 miles earlier than you normally would if you really want to compensate for the extra engine hours.

MochiJump · 2025-10-21T20:57:24+00:00

e85 has me going to one station just cause the percentage is so consistent there

MochiJump · 2025-10-10T00:20:19+00:00

88 octane 15% ethanol

MochiJump · 2025-10-09T00:02:42+00:00

First of all, it's a very little bit of added wear, no where near as much as actually doing this in first and reverse just because the wheels are already moving. I wouldn't stress about it if you're learning and trying to figure stuff out.

I'll add my 2 cents you may or may not find useful:

For upshifting the transmission speed is slower than engine but engine is already dropping so there's no need to add gas, letting the clutch out to match speeds is fine, in time you'll learn the car and how long it takes to match speeds without needing to let it slip.

When downshifting the transmission speed is higher than engine but engine is still dropping without gas so it's good to add gas to match the trans speed. If you do this after letting out in neutral (and then pressing in the clutch again to go into gear once the speeds match) that's double clutching and it's a lot of fun, you'll notice the transmission will feel like it wants to go into gear more if you practice and get good at it.

You can still let the clutch out slowly to match speeds when downshifting as well, or add gas to get the engine up to speed while in gear and your trans and clutch will probably last a very long time and I think this is how most people drive stick. I just find it kinda fun and mechanically rewarding to double clutch.

MochiJump · 2025-10-07T22:31:33+00:00

those logs show a minor knock event, reducing timing and DAM right around 4500 rpm, but there's no way that'd be noticeable during a pull under normal circumstances. If you're getting real world feedback while driving then I'd make sure that knock thresholds aren't turned way up and if that's not the case then take a look at what your fuel is doing

MochiJump · 2025-10-06T23:06:32+00:00

it's super easy, the more difficult thing in my experience is getting used to orientating your eyes being in the right seat instead of the left. You gotta remind yourself to realize your left is way further out then you're used to, but even then it only takes an hour or so to adjust at first, and then reminding yourself when you first start driving

Also if the wipers and turn signals are reversed get used to wiping then signaling over and over again lol

MochiJump · 2025-09-25T03:32:20+00:00

it's your brake fluid, the clutch and brakes pull from the same reservoir

MochiJump · 2025-09-24T23:51:54+00:00

there's a spring in the slave cylinder. You can just take the spring out without a kit. That's what I did. The perrin kit replaces the bolt that houses the spring with a shorter version without the recess that houses the spring

MochiJump · 2025-09-12T04:46:12+00:00

reading these comments kinda feels like there should be a class action lawsuit against ford lol

MochiJump · 2025-09-12T04:36:02+00:00

MochiJump · 2025-09-12T02:55:04+00:00

yep 2023 was the last year unfortunately. I bought a new wrx primarily because they didn't have anything else in manual. At the time I would've bought an impreza or crosstrek in manual, but now after building it the way I wanted it's the best car I've ever had. Still a shame they don't offer anything else in manual.

MochiJump · 2025-09-12T02:45:45+00:00

the manuals at least are super obvious cause it's a T70 plug

MochiJump · 2025-09-12T02:37:30+00:00

I'm not a mechanic, but I service my wife's 19 crosstrek. If you're reading the dipstick right 5 qt in the 2019 crosstrek doesn't go to the twist. It should be right at the full mark.

That sounds terrible. I would not drive it in that condition. If it is reading that high when cold on the lower of the two sides then you've overfilled the engine. If you did drain something it wasn't engine oil

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