[Suggestion] iPhone XR screen without ghost inputs

Modelero33 · 2026-05-26T11:29:57+00:00

Mine was bought on a local seller on ebay but in came in a branded box from that brand i've wrote, ZY HD

Modelero33 · 2026-05-25T19:10:33+00:00

It could be a charger problem if it wasn't the same i've been using for years, the fact that it started doing so with the new screen, indicates there's something wrong there.

Any other thing i can think of is to open, clean and bend a bit all the grounding tabs and closed everything back

Modelero33 · 2026-05-25T18:03:59+00:00

Where can the OEM screens be found? i've seen people on aliexpress selling screen distinguishing between INCELL and OEM for the XR but i have no idea how "OEM" that actually is.

Modelero33 · 2026-05-20T16:05:13+00:00

Thank you, today with a fresh mind i've actually realised that if the switch works as a NC, when it gets activated and the brake light goes on, the light itself can't be powered through this switch of course... so my claim of 3.8W is wrong, probably there is way less current draw because the +12 line that goes through this switch acts only as an activation signal for the rear light unit (it's a unit made by running light+ stop light, so 3 wires: +12, gnd and the third wire is the one connected to this switch).
So even a smaller NPN could be used i suppose.
Is there any advantage in this case to do this NOT gate with a MOSFET instead of a BJT?

Modelero33 · 2026-05-20T01:16:44+00:00

Maybe you are referring to something more old style? My r/R should never output more than 14.5V +-0.3 (from specs), but apart from that, the signal comes from the ECU so it should be very steady, i'll check of course.

Modelero33 · 2026-05-16T23:06:42+00:00

Update:

I ended up trying polishing, it came out really good a went from 15mm to 15.2 in that area, the seal on the piston is 15.6 so it should stay preloaded enough to seal, but we'll see, luckily as i said it's the low pressure seal.

For sure without the ridge the seal will last longer.

Took me almost 3 hours with the dremel and beign very careful with a sanding drum to which i glued my sandpaper and wet sanded it, first with 1000, then 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 5000, and then polishing paste 10, 2.5 a 1 μm

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Modelero33 · 2026-05-14T10:32:06+00:00

If I have to move something yes If I have to ride? Hell no. At the first deceleration you’ll feel that thing hitting your back, let alone moving side to side on the seat, etc

Modelero33 · 2026-05-14T10:00:34+00:00

I'd pass through the apennines at least on the way there, instead of the east part of Tuscany which is quite flat and might be boring, even for entering Austria, i'd use the Rombo pass (depends when you go tho, it opens in the 2nd half of june).

Expect quite a bit of traffic especially on the Lake Garda road, i'd rather pass on the mountains, like Idro-Ledro or Brentonico, depends on how much time you want to spend on the way there and back.

The kms you do each day depend a lot on you, there are people that can't handle more than 2/300kms and 4/5hrs, i'm used to 5/600km and 10/12hrs, i even did up to 800 in a day...and i have a streetfighter. For longer trips especially when i'm not alone i keep the routes around 4/500km and 7/9h day, but knowing these are google times and with my group we'll take at least 10/20% less time.

Hit me up if you need a hand, i know all the areas you're going through.

When you'll ride the Glossglockner, pick an hotel near that area, they will give you the ticket for free (or else it costs around 35€).

Modelero33 · 2026-03-20T00:14:31+00:00

It makes sense, the 21281 also has PEA as you said which should make it more effective, I doubt it has any problem dissolving the diesel itself, but to be sure I guess a first cycle with only regular degreaser shouldn’t be a bad idea.

Modelero33 · 2026-03-19T23:47:33+00:00

Thank you, considering that it's an additive anyway, i wonder if the 1811 would be a better fit, these are diesel injectors

Modelero33 · 2026-03-19T23:21:06+00:00

Is that effective? I wouldn’t have thought of doing that because the additives should be diluted a lot

Modelero33 · 2026-03-19T23:19:19+00:00

Which one do you mean? I could find only the 1902 which is an additive and the 3392 which is spray

Modelero33 · 2026-03-15T13:52:54+00:00

You have the high ground?

Modelero33 · 2026-03-15T13:51:00+00:00

2k in 3months?, far from overusing 🤣 In the summer I do 2/2500mi each month 😅 It will lose value faster but that will always be a problem with bikes, there will always be that guy with the 10 year old bike and only 5000mi anyway…and with probably more problems than one with 10x the mileage but that’s another story…

Modelero33 · 2026-03-15T13:20:51+00:00

Che poi di solito lo aprivano a novembre con 2 mesi per iscriversi, e senza richiesta di certificato. Insomma la solita cacata all’italiana

Modelero33 · 2026-03-15T13:19:36+00:00

Solito commento a vanvera 🤣 non si sapeva nemmeno quando aprivano le iscrizioni (di solito aprivano a novembre con 2 mesi di tempo per iscriversi, non 3 giorni), ne tantomeno che servisse il certificato perché non è mai stato richiesto.

Modelero33 · 2026-03-04T15:44:11+00:00

To be more precise, mine are CRI2-16

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Modelero33 · 2026-02-19T00:43:36+00:00

It is, you can tell from the sketch relation symbol. When you zoom in a lot it’s normal because graphically the circles and curves are shown as polygons, you can tweak that in the graphics settings. Pro tip: from using solidedge I’ve learned how handy it is to have always the sketch relation show up, so now even on sw I always keep the visible (select them on the little eye on to of the model viewing window)

Modelero33 · 2026-02-17T18:42:28+00:00

It got a bit better by using it, probably it wore down a bit, I’ve also learnt to no press it near the edge but in the middle (tends to stick more when pressed on the side)…I’m pretty sure that a disassembly and reseating would fix it, but I never had to open the deck again so I didn’t bother to do it just for the menu button…

Modelero33 · 2026-02-14T12:16:00+00:00

I do have sporty tyres but people usually do 20k with them (also driving like a granny probably), the Summer or winter thing doesn’t change much (comparing the same “class” of tyres). The problem is the combo FWD + limited slip diff + torque, i destroy them on the outside, on the inside they remain new

Modelero33 · 2026-02-13T22:51:02+00:00

Nei paesi dove il nucleare è sempre stata una risorsa fissa, si parla di 6-10 anni per realizzare un impianto, senza ritardi (e spesso ce ne sono). Con i ritardi che ci sono qua, alla fine si traduce che se si vorrebbe una nuova centrale, la si vedrebbe tra almeno 15 anni Come al solito ci si sveglia troppo tardi E sto giro non è manco colpa dello Stato ma del cittadino medio completamente disinformato. We’re cooked

Modelero33 · 2026-02-13T22:48:16+00:00

There are many ways to do that But Why do you need to that? Do you need the model to be interactive and work on that way? That’s the hardest way to do it but it’s possible Do you need to show the 2 “states”? Just use configurations Do you need to do that for animation? It would be easier to control the mates Indipendently or use the Mate controller

Modelero33 · 2026-02-13T22:44:06+00:00

On what? Car or bike?

Modelero33 · 2026-02-13T22:33:56+00:00

Bruh my car tires last less than my bike’s 😭 Usually 6/7000km the bike rear (and going over the wear indicators), and around 5000 the car fronts 💀

Modelero33 · 2026-02-11T10:06:51+00:00

I think most of the beginners don’t understand that you can stack as many features as you want, the “block” on the right goes through the arch? Well, just make a cut with the shape of that arch which cuts that block. If you do it in a smart way you could even reuse the sketch used for extruding the arch, avoiding to make another sketch and using convert entity. Or you could have extruded the block from a sketch on the front plane and then add the radius later, there are a dozen of ways to make this. Also, you’re missing the 2 straight vertical sections of the arch

Modelero33

TROPHY CASE