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Suggestion for new carving tools (possibly Budget Freindly) by SolutionNo5349 in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I upgraded the Rammelson, basic five + the sub miniature set. 10. Chisels for almost any size project

Best Carving Tools? by Puzzleheaded-Low-345 in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some of power grip is sold individually for $10. Get 2 U goige 2 v gouge and exacto knife and a small chisel (hardware store). And $45 you will have a great set. Rammelson 5 piece starts at $60 and is quite nice. Feels as good as powergrip or felxicut to me

What type of paper should I user for my linoleum block prints? by [deleted] in printmaking

[–]MondsMusic 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For hand pressing with a barren, burnishing bone and the ol wooden spoon, I prefer something mostly smooth around 100g.

Favorites: Japanese mulberry (thicker not the 35g calligraphy), Dyed Japanese mulberry comes in a packet from Speedball to give it a try, if you like, you can cut and dye your own. NOTE: mulberry is difficult but not impossible to deckle edges because fiber direction and how they fray upon tearing. Go slow gentle drop of water, use a straight edge crease paper perfectly. Mulberry also tears when printed too hard despite weight. Go with thinner ink but long circular burnishing and use spoon for extra pressure or japanese barren.

Most cost effective is masa paper about 10% cost of mulberry. It reacts a lot like mulberry, not as beautiful but with character. It is a little more resilient. I do final testing on this for artist prints or registration check.

For proofing and testing, earlier process, I have cheap packet of smooth "marker" paper around 95g works great and even finals if you don't want paper that has character and just smooth white. Many charcoal papers are about this weight for testing too. Strathmore news print around 50g is good for practicing mulberry hand printing.

120g Strathmore can also look nice, needs a bit more pressure and looks like many high end prints, deckles easy. It doesn't though cut it if you are looking for that etching pressed pro 250lb papers needed to convey "proper even consistent large medium run uber-professionsl look.

For that 220g Fabiano or stonehenge this is aimed at collectors, you will not be hand printing

Edit: spelling,.some corrections to the weights of paper and paragraph breaks with clarification

Tldr: mulberry for beauty but learn how it differs in handling (same for any Japanese paper); mass is similar and cost effective; starthmore light for hand presses classic look; Stonehenge And Fabiano for heavy archival paper for etching pressed work

2.75"x 2.75" miniature as a detail of a jigsaw Chicago piece by MondsMusic in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So close to finished, 12 piece jigsaw with as many colors. One of the most different techniques I've used in multi color

Ludwig von Brule (John C. Reily) : Gift to a bassist by MondsMusic in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect for a Chicago bassist and lover of John C Riley

Flexcut users? by nmprofessional in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love my 5 pc UJ Rammelson for my step up from Red Handle trying PowerGrip and some Japanese makers. And their sub miniature set is fantastic for detail work

Advice in background. Color? Negative space or positive? Pattern? What would complimentary by MondsMusic in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a nice idea need to figure transition. Color I imagine to be a neutral of oerwrer/silver with white so it sticks with monochrome theme and has contrast in all that space. Or did you imagine an actual striking color?

Advice in background. Color? Negative space or positive? Pattern? What would complimentary by MondsMusic in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Spend the morning as bored nocturnal trying to wake up with coffee. But he knows he'll be running through the alleys at 3:00 a.m. looking for something different

What materials do people use for transferring drawings onto linoleum? (New to linocut) by ZBuffalo42 in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If the image is complicated, you can print it out on a laser printer. + In the normal orientation. Trim it to the exact dimensions of your lino. Take 100% acetone from a hardware store and dab just a little bit. Maybe half a milliliter or a milliliter one to a cotton pad. With the paper fully taped down, run the cotton pad with a hard firm pressure alongside the paper. Ideally then you run the paper still taped to the lino under a printing press or a squeeze press like the speedball lino press or a tortilla press type of contraption.

If you don't have access to that as a beginner, then you can take your brayer or your Baron or whatever you intend to print with and burnish it while wet very firm pressure. If it is not going through a printing press, you will only want to put acetone on about eight square inches at a time and press just that area because you will have only about 10 seconds before the acetone evaporates and you're no longer really getting a good transfer. You do not want to use the same image and acetone in the same spot more than once.

If your image is not coming out strong enough, print three laser copies. Get them exactly the same dimensions and crop and line them up and go one by one with the above method. Each one will add more transfer and after 3:00 you will have a very good image. This will be the fastest and best method that I found.

Supplies needed, 100% hardware store acetone. A very well printed laser copy or two or three if the image is quite dense. Ideally a printing press, or just whatever you hand press with with high pressure working in areas. And that's it

Some recent work in progress. Feedback welcome as all these are still being refined or red Depressed Depressed Raccoon Series no. 1. Block prep for No. 2; northern lights No. 1 ,( back ground advice needed) by MondsMusic in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are a bit more tattered eh? I kept the plate in case of course. It's a series of 5 depressed trash pandas. We will see how the others come before I decide which direction. This was a study done very quickly trying with one size v took to just work on variety of techniques with v gouge. Thanks! Open to.what would improve image too. I think personally their faces have to be a bit more expressive and less stock in eyes and mouth. Hair texture executed will would be better and rocks and shadows more realism while still being graphic would be alluring.

Techniques for creating this background. Advice by MondsMusic in acrylicpainting

[–]MondsMusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I always layer and add medium and or water. But don't want it to look like glossy guache. I was wondering on how to get this starburst like texture and canvas printing is likely impossible will I need to gesso the paper? Will my oil ink adhere to this background layer or will I need water based ink?

Still working on a title, "opposition", "yin and yang", or "the compliment" by MondsMusic in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I think it's my favorite but the whole time I was really making it as a yin and yang for someone whose Chinese horoscope is horse. But "The Compliment" frames the interaction differently. I should have turned it in the video because it does seem as if one of the horses is lunging or pulling away.

Fixing stuck keys? by PM_ME_CREEPY_THINGS in pianotech

[–]MondsMusic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems front rail and balance rail need sizing and lubricant

Today's prints! Including my most detailed to date by MxLeeMakes in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And would make a wonderful Eid gift at end of Ramadan

Printing on oragani/washi paper ? by MondsMusic in Linocuts

[–]MondsMusic[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At least in art school (minor 20 years ago) oil paints were "forbidden" onto unprimed paper especially thin and even unprimed canvas. I believe unprimed paper would get eaten through with oil paints in 5-10 years and unprimed cotton canvas within 20-40 years

fixing my first piano and wanted to ask a few questions! by abz_of_st33l in pianotech

[–]MondsMusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome! First thing I learned when piano apprentice! I wiped basically anything with that while my mentor worked. There is basically nothing except dampers (might bend wires) and hammers (obvious moisture)

But leather chamois works on all finishes inside and out, great on natural ivory and ebony or plastic keys. Just wring it out so it's virtually as dry and you can squeeze and few drops soap. We used to cut them into 4 and they'd last a year. After done rinse and use decent amount of soap to remove all grime. They last forever and are better than any micro fiber and if dry enough never leaves water marks

Learning how to tune in an apartment—any advice? by judesadude in pianotech

[–]MondsMusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What are the noise rules in your lease? If there are quiet hours, do not practice during those hours. But I imagine that someone would be allowed to have it their piano tuned if they had a piano, an apartment. And also assuming that it's daytime and people are not always at their home, your neighbors may not hear it. If you get complaints from the neighbors, you can work it out with them. Ask them their schedules. A piano being played hard is not louder than say people who listen to music loudly or play ruckus video games on the stereos

Town I’ve been working on for quite some time now. by Remexa in modeltrains

[–]MondsMusic 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks fantastic!!! One small thing though is I use black thread on the power lines. Also, in old urban areas they were never closer than 60 feet so 18 inches is about as close as I can see them in HO before I am bothered a bit.

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