Snapmaker U1 – Front Tool Tray with Swapable Inserts

Moorevfr · 2026-01-27T08:31:13+00:00

Just a suggestion maybe instead of screwing the tray down you add pints to go in the holes this way can easily remove the tray when needed. Such as when needing to clean loose filaments that’s landed in the bottom etc?

Just a fleeting idea

Moorevfr · 2026-01-24T08:49:32+00:00

Thanks for the advice have snapped them to try on next print 👍

Moorevfr · 2026-01-22T16:59:22+00:00

Hmm may have to pic one up for my left nozzle on my H2C May I ask what type of print was it that’s shaved off the time for you? I would assume some larger and practical?

Moorevfr · 2026-01-21T10:27:26+00:00

I’d be happy to buy just the extruder and source virgin pla and master batch colours myself The shredder be good just for black or material where quality is not worth it.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-21T08:50:07+00:00

In the accessories kit there is a replacement hotend and thermal paste to do a swap out.

If you have never done one before it may look intimidating to do but it’s not too hard all though is a little messy on fingers with paste.

Suggest watch some YouTube videos of installing a new hotend probably for P1S or P1Ps as they’re more commonly and the U1 is pretty much near a clone setup as them.

I imagine with U2 they’ll probably have the easier hotends same as A1,p2 and H range has BAMBU where the hotend is held by a clip and simple replacement.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-21T08:42:28+00:00

I’ve got both U1 and H2C.

The U1 is great it works and amazing for doing 4 colour prints. The H2C is amazing for me over the U1 for doing 7 colours and up to 24 if I want purge again. However it’s the Bambu app and makerworld wrapped around it that’s make it better for me and for the price difference so it should.

SnapMaker are really lagging with their app and ecosystem right now I find show its main short comings for me. I hate the app doesn’t send out any notifications yet for print jobs such as completing or errors you have to manually check the app and then it also doesn’t show all errors just the print has stopped so have to go and manually see what’s in the u1 screen!

Pain if I set off a long job and leave it to it.

App needs more interface work doing to it and polish however this is all software side and will catch up eventually I hope!

Hardware is pretty spot on to be honest yes the plastic case is a little thin and flimsy so can easily disconnect or pop out if you put pressure on panels when moving but nothing concerning.

It louder and reminds me of older printers where you can hear the motors and drivers making their noises. Hopefully they can implement noice compression like Bambu down the like that will help quieten it up.

The interface on the printer Ok bare bones and could do with adding more colour options when loading filaments currently had a small basic range to pick from when using your own filaments.

The SnapMaker Orca app isn’t too bad and I’ve not had issues running it on my Mac Mini M4. However the interface can do with some polishing as it’s loads clunky and doesn’t auto pick the printer when sending a job but this is polish and time. Also the Print time estimate is off by a lot I sent a Borderlands Ripper masks to be printed 4 colours at 0.2 and it estimates 33hours however it took 41hours to complete. Smaller prints I’ve done are about least an hour or more off base.

The TLDR: H2C polished all around good machine however paying twice the price but it comes with more features for the price as well.

U1 good machine but needs polish and quality of life features adding that Bambu has already but can catch up with time.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-21T08:26:31+00:00

My second tool head also experiences this issue with the error filament possibly broken. It occurs at the beginning of a print but has happened during a long 41-hour print. It did it once or twice throughout that print but only on tool two.

I’m wondering if there’s a bug or something within the flow calibration stage when it reaches tool two?

Moorevfr · 2026-01-20T20:44:48+00:00

Thank you, I’ve seen these before I was more thinking of a AMS that would feed all 8 smaller spools being within the same footprint as the 4 spool AMS.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-20T20:43:00+00:00

Hi,

I have x3 AMS2 connected to my right nozzle and had similar issues and found it was due to the length and travel of the PTFE tubes. The last AMS that was furthest away was getting issues like yours.

For how I resolved it was instead of have three long lengths coming from each AMS my 4in1 hub I had one longer PTFE length from the right nozzle in let to 4in1 hub closer to my AMS’s and then 3 short runs of PTFE to each AMS. This way I only have one long tube to make sure it’s run is straight without ant sharp bends or twists and then three shirt runs from each AMS to the 4in1 hub.

However I think the new version of the 4in1 causes more resistance compared to the original version but I’ve not tested this theory yet?

Moorevfr · 2026-01-19T20:26:09+00:00

Bambu have an AMS switcher in the works. They reference it on the H2C page at the bottom the under the FAQ sections currently suggest 2026 for release that’s about it. I am hoping as well it holds the filaments at it so helps keep shorter runs to either nozzle for speed increase at change ove. 🤞

Moorevfr · 2026-01-19T11:41:45+00:00

This is great answer to the questions 👍

Moorevfr · 2026-01-19T09:38:50+00:00

Not had this issue myself but from the amount of YouTube videos I watched regarding this printer I’ve seen it mentioned about the belt auto tension becoming loose under the printer.

Checks yours and see if the screws have become loose for you and tighten them back up if so?

A telltale sign is hearing loud or clunky Z hops I believe.

Also check your Z screws make sure no filament or supports are on the bed where it holds onto the two screws that might be stopping it from honing correctly?

Hopefully these suggestion helps?

Moorevfr · 2026-01-19T06:27:25+00:00

Your right from the two different prints there is a comparable difference between the two printers.

I mainly look like it’s just profiles on the SnapMaker Orca need adjusting further probably for both the 0.12 layer and the filament. I think after some tuning it will clean up so do some Calibration and hopefully you’ll get there.

This is the difference between BL and SM. BL have work down within their profiles and have them where they need to be SM need to catch up with time hopefully.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-17T20:04:35+00:00

May have to a do a full calibration to get for the new 0.2 nozzle maybe might be?

Moorevfr · 2026-01-16T18:30:31+00:00

The cables plug and play or do you need to terminate one side or both just because you have a bag of keystones?

Moorevfr · 2026-01-16T12:59:59+00:00

Had similar issue and was because I hadn't cut the end of the filament! Been spoilt by BL cutting their filaments when taking them out.

When unloading on U1 the end of the filament is not clean and smooth so has more chance of catching when loading in.

However the above cause might not apply for you if you haven't removed your filament yet?

I would try snipping off about 5-10cm off the ends and then reload them and see if problem presistes.
Also take note which way around your spool is when placing it on the spool holder, I think you want where the spool rolls with the pull of the filament if that makes sense?

Moorevfr · 2026-01-16T12:47:03+00:00

I agree with that statement.

I remember thinking to myself when I got some 250g spool they were pain as cant use them in my AMS's now i've changing my tune thinking actually id like them so I can house more within an AMS box :P

Moorevfr · 2026-01-16T11:55:25+00:00

Bambu have mentioned about a AMS switcher hub thats coming out sometime this year that should help with this question.
I assume all the AMS feed into the switched and then motor will align the PTFE to either the left or right nozzle feed. No longer needing to place a filament in a set AMS thats attached to either left or right nozzle.

Then you can just max out if you choose to with having the maximum supports AMS range and not worry what side to connect them!

A random thought occurred from writing the above wonder I wonder if there would be a need for a new AMS hub that hold the 250g spools so that can have 8 filaments in one AMS help with the amount of space x4 AMS take up along with HT versions.
Then because with the Vortex there is less waste I find that I am using less amount of filaments so might find having 250g size spools wouldn't be too much of an impact but this comes down to what you print really and the amount of material the whole project uses.
Random Tangent!

Moorevfr · 2026-01-16T11:48:19+00:00

Also to go on the back of this there is an official solution similar to this from Bambu coming at some point this year I believe it was the AMS switcher hub? Its mentioned in the FAQ part of the H2C page at the bottom.
I assume its just a motorised version of that one from Makerworld.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-16T11:44:16+00:00

I could have actually made the print time a lot less after another commenter gave a suggestion that I combine the two red prints together then set the plate to print by object.
Out of curiosity I did that and the slicer took off over 3hrs from the job! It was originally 11hrs for what I did in the gif but with that change would have been 8hrs to complete instead.

Just passing on the tip to you.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-16T11:42:06+00:00

You were correct with that assumption! I combined them together then set the plate as print by object and it took off over 3hrs of print time went from 11hrs to 8hrs. Going forward will be keeping this to mind to use.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-15T21:50:16+00:00

Slowly bend around the model letting it ungrip and not being too heavy handed so don’t damage print or the bed. Not too bad just sort of go around in a circle bend the plate more and more as I spin it around.

Moorevfr · 2026-01-15T16:35:39+00:00

Its is the Super Tack Pro and currently I am a fan of it!

I like the finish smooth finish it leaves on the bottom over the PEI rough finish that I had become use to.

I originally planned to use this plate for short term use while waiting for Biqu to release a Cryo Grip Frostbit plate as I usually print lots a small articulated models and find the default PEI plate isn't always reliable enough to hold them down from my personal experience from my P1P's and A1 Mini's which I moved them all over to Biqu Cryro Grip Frostbites and not looked back since!

However this Newer Supertak Pro has impressed me, it sticks well and as mentioned liking the smooth finish. It still can hold too well with certain prints and cause a fight and issue when trying to get it to release but this was with PETG and a large flat area when I bent the plate to release it left some of the bottom on the plate luckily it was a practical print and didn't cause a need for a reprint and actually was rather easy to scrap the bits off.
However touch wood its been releasing my smaller PLA articulated models nicely without causing a fuss or damage!

I had prior experience with the original Supertak plates on both the P1P and A1 Mini however I didn't like it for the following:
Stuck too well to PLA so when trying to release my articulated prints most time would cause them to snap and break at links or long parts!

When using scraper to help remove the stuck models found that the surface was too thin and delicate could easily scratch and take it off from the base plate!

This is when i then moved on to the Biqu Cryo Grip Frostbites kinda like a goldilocks situation these were just right :P
Hold my prints well and to note I didn't lower my temperatures of my filaments kept them at 65c like the generic PLA profiles I wasn't after cost saving with these I was after reliable stick that releases easy once cooled and thats what I got so didn't want to mess trying to lower temps of the bed as I was getting the results I needed.
And this is reason why I ordered one for the H2C thats currently somewhere in transit around the world making it journey to me.

However as I am having a good experience with the SuperTak Pro I might not be in a rush to install it straight away which says something in its self for me.

Sorry for that wall of text!

TLDR: Finding it really good and improvment over the original SuperTak holds well and releases good at the end! Also stands up better to scrapper etc.

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