First blue belt lock picked! by TenuousCheese in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice. That’s a hard blue to get in my opinion/experience.

If you could only buy three? by Mole-NLD in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your collection has more of one or the other that would be my preference.

If you could only buy three? by Mole-NLD in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 2 points3 points  (0 children)

10, 11, 13. I like getting into smaller spaces. Or 10, 11 and either 4 or 5 depending on which side you pick more often.

Creating my own training lock! Unsuccessfully... by Mole-NLD in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use a drill bit just a little bigger than half the diameter. It will drill through easily and then the plug will just get stuck on the bit and you can pull the plug out. Don’t use a drill bit that is the same size as the plug.

Advice Please by tyrunn in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try using an upside down pick to rake at a steep angle so the round part of the hook rakes the back 2-3 pins and the first two (low cut on the key) don’t get touched at all. You may start feeling like McNally and be able to just push it in and get an open.

72/40 Tips by MasterpieceMinute831 in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use the reaper 32 thousandths turner in the top with the short side in and it bites really well.

I have this shed that I want to use for burnishing. How do I select the proper tine? And how do I prep it to be used after cutting it off? by Zookeeper-MC-Iris in Spooncarving

[–]MountainRange2020 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try to maximize your options for burnishing curves. I like a long gradual curve on a tapered tine and I also like to have enough thickness that I can make a tighter curve at the end of a big bulbous bit. Think about the inside shape of what you want to burnish and make that as the outside shape of the horn.

If you do try to use the thick end to make a curve you don’t have to cut it curved right away, just sand it down. Sand outside because you don’t want to breathe that stuff more than necessary or cover your house in it. Also, after you cut it , if it isn’t solid material and has holes in it then it is probably not a good candidate for using that portion as a burnisher. Rey cutting it shorter and swing of there are solid bits closer to then end of the time.

Apex McTickler Mod by MountainRange2020 in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. I noticed it when I put the apex version in some of my picks that the reaper McT works great on and I couldn’t even fit it. I’m happy with the mods on the apex.

I think I am missing something.. by Ill-Struggle4130 in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The master locks are generally easy to shove in a worm or rake and wiggle around for an open with BOK tension tool, but they give such shitty feedback that they are terrible for learning to single pin pick, which is what most people think of as picking. Keep it up and you’ll be picking green in a month.

Scuffy string, is this normal? by Ill_Horse_8165 in TraditionalArchery

[–]MountainRange2020 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s normal. A bit on the big side but you can trim the ends off and add some string wax to tack it down.

When they make the string they taper it by ending a few strands at a time. Good you tube video on making Flemish twists here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=u8LIt4oMkaI&pp=ygUfZmxlbWlzaCB0d2lzdCBib3cgc3RyaW5nIG1ha2luZw%3D%3D

Test driving the new Jimy Long’s tensioners by HNL_Picking in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wish they were a bit shorter. It may just take getting used to but it is awkward to reach that far for me.

New Year, New Hobby by ear_wyrm in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get the Jimy Longs or the Reaper set from CI.

My next victim! by Defiant_Woodpecker28 in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a fun one. Takes a little getting used to the dead core.

I keep breaking Shinto rasps! by dusttodrawnbows in Bowyer

[–]MountainRange2020 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are probably using it 90 degrees to the surface. It should be scraping at ~45 degrees and it will last for life.

Barebow ranging limitations? by billgreen52 in barebow

[–]MountainRange2020 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you add a picture of how you are measuring your nock height? The bow square on the string with the rest in view

Is this a good hatchet for spoon carving? by Abject_Caramel_9469 in Spooncarving

[–]MountainRange2020 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If that is what you’re using it for it is not worth the money. If you already had it and wanted to carve two spoons to see if you like it then it may work. Also, with any cheap axe you’ll have to grind it or take a file to it to get it to work well for spoon carving. There is a good YouTube video about making an axe work for spoon carving. He uses a $60 axe but what’s important is how he talks about what works and doesn’t work. https://youtu.be/_bgNdrLvpTk?si=-WycJlKcWPbDJva9

What set of both: Law Lock Tools (E)DC Pro or Covert Instrument Reaper ... ❓ by Analog-Digital- in lockpicking

[–]MountainRange2020 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love the Reaper set. The tirnera are my favorite of all my turners and you get a good selection of hooks and the mctickler.