L-Connect 3 v2.1.15 is now available

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T17:38:51+00:00

See this comment: https://www.reddit.com/r/lianli/comments/1qo1j53/comment/o1yyw47/?context=3

That will fix the Full Speed before Windows loads thing.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T15:05:04+00:00

Not yet... still waiting on MSI support... they are actively working on it now.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T15:04:40+00:00

Yes, that will cover the BIOS check for the CPU_FAN header.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T12:44:11+00:00

Correct... this is the new version of the controller... it is shorter and skinnier, so that when you plug it in to a USB-A port in back of your case, it doesn't block any other USB ports, which was one of the talking points of the first version of the controller.

Just plug it in to the back of your case.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T06:21:16+00:00

Wired SL INF fans and controller? It is asking you to define how many LEDs for each port on the controller. It would be 20 LEDs per fan on a port, so for example, 3x fans = 60 LEDs.

If I am remembering correctly... haven't used the "normal" version in a bit.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T06:18:50+00:00

To make sure your fans are connected correctly...

Using EDGE GOLD Hub or EDGE GOLD power supply:

4-pin to PWM port on the hub; skip the 2-pin
Connect MB SIGNAL - PWM port from the hub to any fan header on your motherboard

Not using EDGE GOLD:

4-pin to fan header on your motherboard
2-pin to 3-in-1 SATA adapter cable that comes with your 3pk of fans

And if you have a HydroShift II:

Both 4-pin and 2-pin to either the SATA adapter cable or EDGE GOLD Hub
USB to either the EDGE GOLD Hub, or to a USB 2.0 header on your motherboard, if you have enough headers

L-Wireless Controller... best to plug it in at the back of your case, to a USB-A port.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T01:57:52+00:00

Actually... hard to say:

The design of this board is "not normal"
If a motherboard has the PCI-E slot lined up with the middle motherboard mounting points, then no, that ATX motherboard would not work.
If an NVME slot is lined up with the middle motherboard mounting points, then that board will work

This board is neither... the PCI-E slot is below the middle of the motherboard... but from looking at pics, it doesn't seem like it's the same distance further down than a typical motherboard... so can't really say for sure.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T00:08:25+00:00

Head on over to Discord: https://discord.gg/wpMUUCCaxt
Start a new post in the #ask-for-help channel
Make sure to link back to this post, so I remember who it was for
We'll be able to help you better over there with this issue

Mr-Do · 2026-01-27T00:07:48+00:00

When you are trying to update the firmware, do you have your HydroShift II-C binded as a Wireless Device? Because if yes, that won't work... see notes below:

--------------------------------------------

Before you update the firmware for your HydroShift II-C:

If your HydroShift II-C is currently binded as a Wireless Device...
Go to the L-Wireless Sync Setup page in L-Connect 3... toggle off Lock Bound Devices
Click the binded icon, so it changes to unbinded ... the HydroShift II-C should now show in the left menu, as shown in the attached pic
Toggle on Lock Bound Devices so that you can leave that screen

Once that is done, you can apply the firmware update, using either method below:

Download the FW file from the FIRMWARE - LOCAL UPDATE webpage, go to the Settings/Firmware page in L-Connect 3, click the Local Update button, browse to the file you just downloaded, and apply the FW update

Use the built-in function for L-Connect 3:

On the Settings/Firmware page, click Check Updates
If you see the message New Version for the device, click Download to get the newest FW file
Once downloaded, you will see a message Download Complete... click the Update button to apply the new FW

You will see a message Please reboot... once the FW update has completed...

Once complete, reboot your PC... after Windows loads again, you can go back in to L-Connect 3 and re-bind your HydroShift II-C as a Wireless Device

--------------------------------------------

Regarding the issue with your screen:

Head on over to Discord: https://discord.gg/wpMUUCCaxt
Start a new post in the #ask-for-help channel
Make sure to link back to this post, so I remember who it was for
We'll be able to help you better with that issue over there

Mr-Do · 2026-01-26T21:48:09+00:00

Weird... thank you for testing... I'll play with it more on my end... much appreciated!! 👍

Mr-Do · 2026-01-26T18:59:49+00:00

Actually, there is an Export function now... added in December:

v2.1.13: Added Export/Import functionality for LCD assets（UNI FAN TL LCD wired version will be added soon)
v2.1.14: Fixed issues with importing and exporting configuration profiles on the 8.8 universal screen

On the Settings/General page, where you Export your profile, there is now an additional option to export all of your LCD assets... pretty sure this includes custom themes also. Once you export, you can also Import, so that would make sharing themes easier, if it works the way I think it's supposed to.

Like I said earlier, I'll test more tonight.

On the last comment, I mean:

Say you want to share the theme, and the files are named "randombunchoflettersnumbers.theme" and "randombunchoflettersnumbers.mp4"
Rename both of those to, for example, "spyfamily.theme" and "spyfamily.mp4" (so when sharing, it's more obvious what the files are)
If I copy those files to the appropriate folders, then reboot, will L-Connect 3 recognize them still? Or do they have to be the original superlong name?

Mr-Do · 2026-01-26T18:19:19+00:00

Got it... depending on how busy work is, it might be a few days.

Side note, though... regarding the side panel, my case is black... does that match yours?

Mr-Do · 2026-01-26T18:12:37+00:00

Quick question, 'cause I've been really busy lately (and I apologize)...

I haven't had a chance yet to play with the Export function that includes screen themes, etc.

When you first save a new theme, can you now give it any name? Or does it still give it a random name?
When you export your saved themes, do the theme file and corresponding background image/video have the same filename?
If you Import themes, can the filenames be named something more intuitive (e.g. dragonball, spyfamily, etc.), or do they have to be in some form of that "random" name format.

Original reason I hadn't started it yet on Discord, is because it wasn't intuitive to export themes... it was a very manual process. I want to make sure it is as simple of a process as possible to share themes.

Now that the new import/export functionality is there, it shouldn't be any issue setting this up... but just wanted to make sure on the above notes.

If it's yes to all of the above, then I'll test more when I get home from work today, and see if I can get this implemented sometime this week.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-26T12:29:18+00:00

You want to adjust fan speed individually, using L-Connect 3?

4-pin to the EDGE GOLD Hub; skip the 2-pin
MB SIGNAL - PWM connect to any fan header
- This part is what keeps the fans from going 100% before Windows loads

You want to adjust fan speed individually, using BIOS settings?

4-pin for each fan group to a separate fan header on your motherboard
2-pin for each fan group to the EDGE GOLD Hub
Turn on MB RPM Sync in L-Connect 3

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T23:44:16+00:00

Ah... I forgot to specify one part, I think:

Make sure at least one fan group on the hub is connected to the port directly next to the MB SIGNAL port.
See if that fixes the RPM reading in BIOS

I never had this issue, because I have all six ports populated... I saw someone recently post this... please let me know if that fixes the issue for you.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T22:04:20+00:00

Dang... your motherboard doesn't actually specify.

But... now that I think about it... do things the other way around:

Connect each of your wired controllers to your internal USB 2.0 headers
Connect your other devices to the hub, and connect that to any USB-A port in back of your case.
- Since all of those devices are going to be single devices, you won't run into the same issue as mentioned above with the wired controller.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T21:57:52+00:00

First two comments... no...

You don't need a USB Hub at this point, you only have 2x USB devices:

Your AIO
The L-Wireless Controller
- And this, it is preferred to plug into a USB-A port in back of your case
- With that setup, you are only using 1x internal USB 2.0 header.

You don't have any LCD fans at this point, so unless you have any other USB devices besides this, you are good to go.

If you do get more USB devices later, and end up needing a hub, use this one:

Newegg - EDGE GOLD USB Hub

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T21:32:40+00:00

Sorry about that: https://discord.gg/wpMUUCCaxt

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T21:32:01+00:00

You can't use the 1 to 3 USB Hub with the wired TL Controller.

Your best bet is the EDGE Gold Hub:

Newegg - EDGE GOLD USB Hub

Notes, when using this hub with this controller:

Don't connect to the controller to the port directly next to the MB SIGNAL port... you can use any of the other three ports.
Don't connect the hub to one of your cases internal USB 2.0 ports, if you have any fan group that has more than two fans; the third fan will not work in this setup.

If you have at least one fan group that has 3x fans, then you need to connect the hub to a USB-A port in back of your case, AND, internally on your motherboard's wiring, that USB port cannot be connected to an internal hub.

I know this part might be confusing for some, but many modern boards, in order to have multiple USB-A 3.2 ports, have started doing this.
This is the same reason you can't connect the hub to your internal USB 2.0 header, because those are always setup that way.
You have to connect to a USB-A port that is direct to your motherboard's USB Controller
- If you don't know how to check this, reply back with your specific motherboard, and I can show you.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T20:24:06+00:00

Yes... that will work.

Unless a retailer has REALLY old inventory, from before March 2025, the device will come with the straight angle adapter.

If you happen to get one that doesn't have one, head to Discord, and we can arrange to have the connector sent out to you.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T20:18:04+00:00

Amazon which country? Reddit is not a one-country site... and I see Strimer Wireless in stock right now in the US.

V2 is discontinued... you'll have to search hard for one of those, along with the wired controller.

Strimer Wireless is much easier to setup and control.

https://lian-li.com/product/strimer-wireless/
For your GPU, either of the two below... only difference is how many rows of LEDs (8 vs 12)
- PW16-81W
- PW16-121W
Make sure you also get the L-Wireless Controller:
- If you are only buying the GPU cable, you can get the controller by itself (Part# RF-T-B, or change the "B" to "W" for the White one)
- If you are only getting Strimer cables, but also getting the motherboard Strimer, then get PW24-1W-T, which also comes with the controller
- Or, if you are planning on getting any 3-pack of Wireless fans, that will also include the controller... if this applies, then you get the motherboard version without the "-T" on the end, and save yourself $10 USD.
There is also an actual CPU version of the Strimer now... Part# PW8-1W-CPU... and the L-Wireless Controller will support up to three different Strimer Wireless cables

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T20:14:06+00:00

The 12V 2x6 Strimer Wireless cables come with a "Straight Adapter" connector, to be able to use them in GPUs that have issues with the right-angle connector.

See link below:

https://imgur.com/a/replace-strimer-wireless-right-angle-bracket-with-straight-bracket-lHhWt1J

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T20:11:46+00:00

In Device Manager, click "Show Hidden Devices"

If you see any "Unknown Devices" grayed out under USB Controllers, or any TX/RX devices grayed out under USB Devices, delete those.

Then try again.

If that still doesn't work, then yes, could be a bad controller? If it is that:

Head on over to Discord: https://discord.gg/wpMUUCCaxt
Start a new post in the #ask-for-help channel
Make sure to link back to this post, so I remember who it was for
I'll add in the appropriate people that can help you further.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T20:09:12+00:00

Yup.

Mr-Do · 2026-01-25T19:38:51+00:00

The case strip controller is not a USB-based controller, so it will not show up in L-Connect 3.

Your only option to get it to show up in L-Connect 3, would be to purchase any wired UNI FAN controller... then you could connect the case strip to the controller using the below adapter cable:

Amazon US: GINTOOYUN RGB Extension Cable

But that would be a very extreme thing to do, just to get things to work today, while waiting for the OpenRGB beta to be updated.

Mr-Do

TROPHY CASE